Got a Green Swimming Pool?
Green Pool Clean-Up Step-by-Step:
Ensure the pool can be cleared up vs. draining and refilling it. A rule of thumb is that draining may be better if there are more than 4 inches of sediment on the bottom. There would be a lot of algae and dirt on the pool bottom, which would be more like a pool sitting unattended for over a year or more. Generally, a pool that has only been green for a few months can be cleared with chemicals and algaecide. Also, make sure the equipment is in good working order.
Step One: Scoop out all leaves and debris from the bottom and surface. Don't worry about stirring everything up; you will vacuum at the end of the treatment.
Step Two: Brush the pool as best as you can. Some of the algae might be tough to brush off. If you have a plaster or Pebble Tec Pool, a Steel Algae Brush will help. However, much of the algae will be loosened once the chemicals are added to the pool.
Step Three: If you have a D.E. Or Cartridge filter, clean it apart. The filter type is usually on the label on the filter.
If you have a Sand filter, you will just be Backwashing it during this process. For a D.E. Or Cartridge filter, you likely have to clean it again one more time or more.
Step Four: Bomb the pool out. You want to bring the chlorine level up to 30-50 ppm to start to kill the algae. The algae and other organic material in the pool will destroy a lot of chlorine in the first 24 hours. A shorthand guide:
14,000-gallon pool: 14 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine or a combination of that and 1 lb. Bags of shock.
20,000-gallon pool: 20 gallons of 12.5% chlorine.
30,000-gallon pool: 30 gallons of liquid chlorine.
I suggest using Sodium Bromide to help kill the algae. Sodium Bromide is very effective. However, it does "use up" some of the chlorine, so don't overdo it. I suggest one Capful be added to one gallon of liquid chlorine. So, if you add 8 gallons of liquid chlorine, four capfuls of Sodium Bromide should be sufficient. If you want some of the chlorine to be active, you don't want to add eight capfuls of sodium bromide to the pool. Each Capful is about 4 oz.
Step Five: Run the pool for 24-48 hours straight. You may have to add more chlorine after 24 hours and clean the filter again—no need to vacuum the pool yet. Let everything slowly settle to the bottom first. This may take a couple of days.
Step 6: After the pool has cleared enough for you to see the bottom, you can manually vacuum out the pool. The stuff on the bottom will be dead algae and other organics like dead mosquito larvae and other bugs and plants. If you have a sand filter or a D.E. Filter with a "Waste Mode," vacuum the pool with the Multiport Valve to that setting. If you do not have a backwash valve with a "Waste Mode," you can vacuum directly into the filter. Note that you must clean the filter after vacuuming if you do not vacuum to Waste.
A portable clean-up pump comes in handy here, but it is an investment of about $200. If you plan on using it again, it would be a worthwhile investment; otherwise, vacuum and clean the filter.
It may take a week or two to clear up completely, but the pool will eventually become crystal clear blue.
FLOC?:
Using a pool Floc has its benefits, and you should purchase a bottle or dry container of Aluminum Sulphate (Floc) to help accelerate your pool's recovery. The Floc will help clump up all dead algae and organic particles and sink them to the pool bottom. Generally, you will leave your pool off for 24-48 hours for the Floc to be more effective. Once everything drops to the bottom, the pool will be much more transparent, and everything will be easier to vacuum. In most cases, you must have a filter with a multiport valve to vacuum it to "Waste." You can also use a portable clean-up pump if you have one. Floc is optional but can help to clear the pool up faster, especially if you have an inefficient filter type like a Sand Filter.
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