Using Sodium Bromide to Treat Yellow or Mustard Algae

A Sodium Bromide product will work effectively in treating Yellow Algae in your pool. As long as the active ingredient is Sodium Bromide it will work in clearing up the algae. The percentages vary by product and the Knock Out product shown here in granular form is 99% Sodium Bromide. They also make a Knock Out Problems liquid which is about 30% Sodium Bromide and part Clarifier also but no less effective.

One of the things that you need to do is to make sure you have a very high chlorine level before you start this treatment.  Bring the chlorine up to what we refer to as "Blazing High" if it is at zero ppm. This means you need to have a chlorine level of 5-10 ppm before you start using the Sodium Bromide product. If the chlorine level is already at 3-5ppm you should be okay with just the Sodium Bromide dosage and sanitizer to be added such as liquid chlorine.

One common mistake is not starting with a good chlorine level. Sodium Bromide will convert the chlorine to bromine and the Sun will also burn some off as the Bromine Molecule does not bond with the Cyanuric Acid molecule (conditioner does not protect Bromine) so even more chlorine will burn off. And some of the chlorine will be "eaten" or used up by the Yellow Algae itself. Basically, a Bromine bank is created with the active chlorine in the pool and since it is no longer protected by the Conditioner it will burn off very rapidly. Thus, you need to have plenty of chlorine in the pool, to begin with, to prevent all of it from burning off. It’s a bit complicated so just remember the higher the chlorine reading the better.

When you add any Sodium Bromide product you must follow up the application with some type of chlorine. I prefer liquid chlorine but you can use Cal-Hypo, Dichlor or other chlorine shocks. You would want to add 1 lb. of a powder shock for every 4 oz of Sodium Bromide. The Knock Out lid is actually 2 oz. so you will need to add 2 capfuls per 10,000 gallons of water that you are treating to make 4 oz of the product.

Step One:

Bring the chlorine level up to 5-10 ppm if chlorine is zero or lower than 3 ppm.

Step Two:

Brush the affected area really well, removing as much algae as possible from the walls.

Step 3:

Add the Sodium Bromide product directly over where the algae was before you brushed it. 4 oz per 10,000 gallons of water. If in two separate spots split the dosage over each spot. If the entire pool is covered in algae you will have to quadruple the dosage. For example, if the pool is 20,000 and full of algae adding 8 gallons of liquid chlorine and 16 oz of the Sodium Bromide may be called for to be effective. You just need to multiply the amount of Sodium Bromide depending on how severe everything is in the pool.

So broadcast the Sodium Bromide over the area and then follow it with either a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine, 2 gallons of 6% bleach, 1 lb of Cal-Hypo or 1 lbs of Dichlor. It is crucial that you follow up the Sodium Bromide dosage with some type of chlorine to ensure the product won’t eat up the entire active chlorine in the pool. In that case, the pool will get worse and not better.

Step 4: Run pool through the entire cycle or as long as possible – 12-24 hours is optimal.

If you follow the procedure in the video below the yellow mustard algae will be destroyed and you can use a maintenance dose to prevent it from returning - about 1 oz. per 10,000 gallons. I use Sodium Bromide on my route and week to week it is the most effective way to treat algae.

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The Truth About Phosphates in Your Pool

There are several methods you can use to eliminate and prevent algae in your pool all season long. I am a big fan of adding borates to your pool to prevent algae and alternatively, you can use the PoolRX product or a maintenance dose of a sodium bromide product like YellowTrine or No Nor Problems. But what happens if you are currently using one of these methods or none of them and you still have persistent algae in your pool? This is where a good Phosphate remover can come in and save the day.

Keep in mind phosphates are measured in ppb – parts per billion instead of the standard ppm – parts per million used in the industry. To give you an idea of how small a ppb is, imagine a roll of toilet paper stretched from New York across the Atlantic Ocean to London. 1 ppm would be one tiny sheet of the entire roll that is stretched across the ocean! So a phosphate level of 100 ppb is extremely minuscule but any amount of phosphates in the water is food for the algae. We are dealing with the microscopic world in your pool and strangely these very small amounts can destroy the pool’s chlorine level and cause algae to bloom on the pool surface.

There are of course factors that contribute to algae in your pool. The main factors that I see are poor filtration, not running your pump long enough, flow issues due to air leaks in the system and improper chemistry – low chlorine levels each week. After addressing these issues, you can still get algae in certain areas of your pool and attached spa. That is where a phosphate remover like PHOSEfree can come in handy.

I have a handful of pools on my route that will develop algae in certain spots during the season. In this case, it is due to poor circulation in the attached spa or in the corner where the steps meet the pool. So what I do is add 8 oz of the PHOSEfree into the skimmer with the pool running for 6-8 hours and this usually takes care of it in one application. You may need to repeat it the next week are two if it is tough algae.

What a phosphate remover does is remove the food for the algae. It the food source is destroyed the algae cannot grow. By doing this you also give the chlorine a boost since it will not be used up fighting the algae growth in the pool. So, there is a dual benefit to this. The algae in the pool are eliminated and your chlorine level stays high each week.

I rarely will use the phosphate remover to actually treat a pool with high phosphates. Most of my pools have a phosphate level of 100 ppb or less so there is no use for the product for me except to treat algae spots in a pool or spa. Of course, if your phosphate levels are over 300 ppb or higher you would benefit from the full phosphate treatment outlined on the product directions. For spot algae treatment you are just using a small dose in the affected pool and are not doing the full phosphate treatment.

I am not a big advocate of adding chemicals to your pool and suggest adding a phosphate remover only if you need it. Rarely will your pool actually have a phosphate issue? I have only had a few pools with phosphates over 1,000 ppb and again very high phosphates are not a major issue for those in my area of the country. But it is not uncommon in very rural areas to have high phosphate issues and full treatment, when needed, is perfectly called for.

The only time I suggest this method is if your pool has trouble holding chlorine week to week and you see algae in certain areas of your pool. There could be microalgae that you can’t see using up the chlorine in the pool. A maintenance dose of the phosphate remover will quickly eliminate the food source for the algae and in turn free up the chlorine allowing the levels to stay consistent.

So, using the phosphate treatment in the way that I am suggesting will help your pool if you are noticing algae in certain spots and if the chlorine level is not holding well week to week. Use the treatment with the understanding that even a small amount of the phosphate remover can go a long way in eliminating the algae because we are removing the algae’s food source. You do not need the full phosphate treatment unless the levels are elevated in your pool. Get a good phosphate test kit or use test strips just to be sure you are not dealing with high phosphate levels in your pool. If the levels are low, close to 100 ppb this method will work very effectively for you.

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Cleaning a Jandy TruClear Salt Cell

Cleaning the Jandy TruClear Sal Cell couldn’t be any easier. If you look through the clear top and notice that the black cell plates have a lot of calcium build upon them, it is time for quick cleaning. The process is simple from beginning to end.

A warning from Jandy:

CAUTION Disconnect power to the system at the main circuit breaker before performing this procedure to avoid the risk of electric shock which can result in property damage, severe injury or death.

Here are the detailed steps from Jandy with some notations from me:

1. Ensure that all power to the power pack and the controller is turned off at the circuit breaker.

This is very important to prevent any kind of voltage arch when you put the cell in acid. It could blow out the fuse or worse as Jandy noted above.

2. Before removing the cell for cleaning, shut off any necessary valves to prevent any water loss.

If your pool equipment sits below your pool equipment, turn off all ball valves before removing the cell.

3. Open the air relief valve on the filter to release any pressure in the pool system. Check the cell.

You can do this step but I always just unscrew the cell from the plumbing.

It is recommended that the cell be inspected every month for scale and/or calcium deposits.

The clear top allows for easy inspection. If you allow the system to run with a dirty salt cell no chlorine will be generated.

Light-colored, crusty deposits known as scale will form in excessively hard water or from the pool water that is out of balance.

Hold the plate bundle to a light source so the light can be seen between the plates. If the light is easily seen through the plates and/or a small amount of scale is visible, the cell does not need to be cleaned. Reinstall.

On the other hand, if the light is barely visible through the plates or the light is totally blocked by scale, then the cell needs to be cleaned.

There are some areas of the country like mine, where scaling of the cell is very common due to poor quality well water. Not much that we can do about it. The excessive scale does not always indicate your water is out of balance.

NOTE Excessive cleaning can shorten the life of your cell.

Loosen the ring and remove the cell.  With protective glasses and gloves on, add one (1) part muriatic acid to ten (10) parts water in a small bucket and mix the cleaning solution together. CAUTION  When cleaning the cell, wear protective eyeglasses and gloves.  When mixing acid with water, prepare the solution by ALWAYS ADDING ACID TO WATER. NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID. 

Never use undiluted Muriatic acid. Always use the recommended mixture of Muriatic acid and water.

My method of using a gallon of the acid container with some acid in the bottom is perfectly safe. The Caution is so you don’t splash acid all over yourself and submerging the gallon container into the pool is perfectly safe. A 10 to 1 ratio is weak but this will prolong the cell life and prevent damage to the cell.

Submerge the cell into the cleaning solution. The foaming action will begin, which is caused by scale (calcium carbonate) being dissolved from the plates. If foaming action does not begin, the cell does not need to be cleaned (STOP THE CLEANING PROCESS. Otherwise, allow the cell to remain in the solution until the foaming has stopped (approximately 5 - 10 minutes). NOTE Do not use a screwdriver or any other metal object to remove calcium deposits. Do not leave in acid for more than 30 minutes.

For me, 10 minutes in a 10 to 1 solution is not long enough. I usually go for 20 minutes. Be sure not to exceed 30 minutes or more or the salt cell can be damaged.

Flush the cell with freshwater and perform the inspection again. If a considerable blockage is still present, then re-submerge the plates back into the cleaning solution, flush and reinspect.

After the cell has been cleaned, dispose of the solution according to local regulations.

I prefer pouring it back into the pool if the pH is high and you need to lower it.

Rinse the cell thoroughly with clean tap water and inspect.

If deposits are still visible on the electrolytic cell, repeat step  

You can give the cell a 2^nd acid bath if needed. Usually, one is enough and rinsing with a hose will do the trick.

Excessive acid washing will damage the electrolytic cell.

Once the cell is clean, reattach the cell as described

A very easy process to be sure. That is the reason why I really love the Jandy TruClear Salt System. It is very simple to use and maintain.

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Pentair iChlor vs Jandy TruClear Salt Water Systems, Which is the Best?

Here is the battle of the new Salt Water Systems. The Jandy TruClear Vs the Pentair iChlor. Both systems are the latest to be introduced by the big three manufacturers with Hayward waiting on the sidelines to update their AquaRite System. As it stands the Truclear and the iChlor are targeting the same market, a compact and up to date saltwater system backed by one of the big three.

So, which one is better? I get asked this question all the time. I have a TruClear at my personal residence only for the default reason that I have Jandy Equipment on my equipment pad. I always say if you have all Pentair or all Hayward and, in my case, all Jandy equipment then it is logical to go with a salt system from that manufacturer. Since I have Jandy equipment I went with the TruClear system and if you have all Pentair equipment I am going to tell you to stick with the iChlor system.

Let me break it down so that you can easily see the differences.

Pool Size
Winner: TruClear, it can generate chlorine for up to a 35,000-gallon pool.

Loser: The iChlor 15 is rated for a 15,000-gallon pool and the iChlor 30 is rated for a 30,000-gallon pool.

In the total output, the TruClear is the better choice.

Salinity Level Reading
Winner:
The iChlor will display the pool’s salinity or salt level right on the menu.  This makes it very easy to know if you have the right salt level in your pool.

Loser:
The TruClear does not have a salinity meter. So you will need an outside digital tester or salt test strips. I big negative for many.

Cost of System
Both are pretty close to each other in total cost so there is no clear cut winner in this category.

Cost of Replacement Cell
Winner:
TruClear is clearly the winner here. Since there are no electronics on the cell itself a replacement cell is under $300. So updating the cell when it gets old is a real bargain.

Loser:
The iChlor has everything built into the cell so basically, when the cell goes out after 10,000 hours of use, you will need to get a whole new system. So the price of the replacement cell for the iChlor 30 is over $600 or almost double the price of the TruClear.

The price of the iChlor replacement cell is a big negative.

Cell Cleaning
Winner:
The TruClear cell is a snap to clean, literally. You simply turn off the pool system, twist the TruClear top and the cell snaps right out. Soak it in a 10 to 1 water to the acid solution and when done simply snap it back in. The clear plastic top allows you to see into the cell and let you know when it needs to be cleaned. It really couldn’t be easier.

Loser:
With the iChlor, you need to unplug the salt cell and then remove the two unions holding the cell onto the plumbing. This is a task and the unions may not be easy to reach or remove. Getting the unions back on with the o-ring inside can also be challenging. The iChlor also requires a cleaning stand sold separately and the TruClear just needs a bucket.

Electronics
Winner:
This is where the iChlor really shines. You can set the chlorine output by increments of 1% allowing you to fine-tune the system and extend the life of the salt cell. It also will let you know when the salt cell needs cleaning and it will display the pools salt level for you. This system has all the bells and whistles.

Loser:
Jandy wanted to keep the TruClear very simple so that there would be no issues with the system. You can set the output in increments of 10% vs the iChlor's 1% increments. There is no dirty cell indicator but the clear top serves that purpose. Having no salinity reading could be a drawback to some.

It depends really on what you are in the market for. I would say that the TruClear is like a Honda Accord, dependable, easy to use and you will be happy with it. The iChlor is like a luxury car, a Lexus for example. It comes with all the indicator lights you would need and has an excellent build quality and feel to it. Each system has its good points and drawbacks. It is simply what you can live with and what you can live without when comparing both systems against each other.

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What Size Salt System do I need for my Pool?

Sizing a Salt Water System known also as a Salt Water Generator (SWG) can seem easy enough since each salt system rates maximum pool size in gallons for you already. But herein lies the problem when sizing a salt water system. The cell size may be rated for your size pool but that may not be in fact the correct salt cell size. Huh? Here is the reason why.

Let’s say your pool is around 18,000 gallons. I will use the Pentair Intellichlor for our example here. For this pool size, the salt cell that would be rated for 20,000 gallons is the IC20 which is designed for pools up to 20,000 gallons. So, it would be only logical to purchase a Pentair Intellichlor Salt System with the IC20 cell. But this is the wrong choice in my opinion. You should actually purchase the IC40 Salt System which is rated for 40,000 gallons of water.

Here is why. The IC20 salt cell will produce .70 lbs. of chlorine in a 24-hour period. This means with the pool pump running at full speed (3450 RPM) it will produce .70 lbs. of chlorine which is equal to about 3/4 gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine. But who runs their pool 24 hours at the full 3450 RPM these days? With the advent of Variable Speed Pumps running your pool at the full 3450 RPM is not realistic. And who runs their pumps 24/7 during the season? I hope you see where I am going with this. In theory, the IC20 can produce .70 lbs. of chlorine. In reality, it will produce far less.

Let’s say you run your pool at 2600 RPM for 12 hours a day. That means at 3450 RPM the IC20 would make .35 lbs of chlorine or about ¼ a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine. But at 2600 RPM which is a lower speed it probably will make about .20 lbs of chlorine each day. Maybe 1/6 of a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine. If your pool is a heavy use pool or prone to algae or running with a dirty filter this probably will not be enough chlorine on a daily and weekly basis for your pool.

But let us put the IC40 salt cell in place of the IC20 in this equation. The IC40 will produce 1.4 lbs. of chlorine in 24 hours running at 3450 RPM. That is twice the amount of the IC20 and more than 1 gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine.

So, running your pool at 2600 RPM for 12 hours will make closer to .70 lbs of chlorine or somewhere between 1/2 and  ¾ of a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine. This could mean the difference between your chlorine level zeroing out every day or maintaining a good level at 2600 RPM for 12 hours a day. So the IC40 will produce twice the amount of chlorine as the IC20 regardless of how you set your pump to run. This is a huge advantage for any pool owner, and it makes adjusting the run time and chlorine production of your pool that much easier.

Another factor is the lifespan of the salt cell itself. The Pentair Intellichor cells are not cheap to replace. The IC series salt cells are rated for 10,000 hours of use. This means that after 10,000 hours the salt cell is finished, and you will need to purchase a new one. So if you have an 18,000-gallon pool and run your IC20 Salt System at 100% during the season to keep your pool chlorinated, figure to get 3-4 years out of that cell.

If you, in turn, run an IC40 salt cell at 50% output in the same pool every season you actually will get 20,000 hours of life out of the cell. So you will get 6-7 years of use from the larger salt cell since you are running it at only 50% of the output. So it actually makes sense to pay the higher upfront cost for the larger IC40 sat cell than the less expensive IC20 cell even though it is the one rated for your pool size.

Both in chlorine production and the useful cell life, the larger salt cell just makes more sense. Bigger is better in most cases when it comes to pool equipment and investing in a larger salt cell is a wise decision.  I suggest always going with the larger salt cell and larger system when you can.

Pentair
IC20 20,000 gallon pool .70 lbs. in 24 hours
IC40 40,000 gallon pool 1.4 lbs in 24 hours
IC60 60,000 gallon pool 2 lbs in 24 hours
iChlor 15 15,000 gallon pool
iChlor 30 30,000 gallon pool

Hayward
T-CELL-15- for pools up to 40,000 gallons
T-CELL-9 - for pools up to 25,000 gallons
T-CELL-3 - for pools up to 15,000 gallons

Jandy
TruClear 35,000 gallons

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Best Budget Suction Side Cleaner -Zodiac Ranger!

An automatic pool cleaner can be a big investment and there are so many different models and types out there which can make the choice downright confusing. Should you choose a Robotic Pool Cleaner, a Pressure Side Cleaner or a Suction side Cleaner? And which is the best in each category? While the Zodiac Ranger isn’t the top Suction Side Cleaner it is the by far the best value-priced cleaner on the market in my opinion.

Currently listed for $140 online it is a real bargain for what you get. It comes with 32 feet of real pool hoses, the same quality hoses found on the more expensive G2 cleaner. It also comes with the standard Zodiac Flow Keeper Valve for the skimmer and that valve alone is over $50.00 by itself. The cleaner head is also very high quality and has some good weight to it so the cleaner will not float or just drift in the pool. The fact that you can also replace the parts on the Ranger makes it a great buy. Unlike the $99 cleaners found online which have no spare parts for sale, making them a throwaway cleaner.

Suction Side Cleaners are usually the most affordable and I think the Zodiac Ranger is by far the best budget cleaner out there. Here are some of the features:

Effectively cleans above-ground swimming pools (not recommended for Intex/soft-sided pools), including dished-out bottoms up to 72 inches.

One moving part technology eliminates annoying hammer or flapper noise; works quickly, effectively, and quietly.

Unique Deflector Wheel helps prevent it from getting caught on steps, ladders, and corners!

Comes pre-assembled for easy installation and includes 32 feet of feed hose.

AG Disc allows the Ranger to glide effortlessly along the bottom of your pool, up to the sides and around steps, cleaning your whole pool.

Flowkeeper Valve and Insta-Skim Compact self-adjusting flow control valve automatically regulates water flow, ensuring peak performance.

Simple operation and easy maintenance

Just the Flow Keeper Regulator Valve by itself is some $50 if you were to just purchase that by itself. You also get ten “real” one meter hoses or over 32 feet of hose. What I mean by real is that these are genuine Zodiac cleaner hoses, the same hoses they use for their very popular G2 cleaner and the hoses that they used to use for all of their suction cleaners before their new locking type hoses. These hoses are extremely durable and long lasting. Cleaners in the $100-$150 range tend to come with cheap hoses that only last about 2 years. You should get several years out of the Ranger hoses.

The cleaner itself does a great job with debris in the pool. It is a bouncing type cleaner so it will also climb and clean the walls of your pool. In most cases, it won’t get caught or hung up in the step area of your pool, but there are the few odd shaped pools where the cleaner may have a problem. I would say for the price point you are getting a completely solid cleaner. The head of this cleaner is the same one that is being used by the Zodiac Australian version of the G2 cleaner and that one retails for $399 over in Australia.

I know the box and the listing online say that the Ranger is for an Above Ground Pool but this cleaner will work perfectly fine in a standard plaster in-ground pool as well. It will also work in an in-ground vinyl, fiberglass and tile pool. Zodiac just markets this cleaner at this price point for the Above Ground Pool Market. But it will again work perfectly fine in your inground pool.

To purchase: https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-Suction-Automatic-Above-Ground-Cleaner/dp/B002HRET4M/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=f77627c77fba759569f19fe73bbed36d&creativeASIN=B002HRET4M

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Cyborg 2-Wheel Suction Side Pool Cleaner

The Cyborg is a 2-wheel suction side cleaner that is offered as an affordable option but is not one of those cheap generic type cleaners. It is a well made and very highly engineered cleaner that will leave your pool looking spotless every week.

The Cyborg comes with 40 feet of pool hoses and these hoses are very thick and well made. With 40 feet of hoses, the Cyborg is great for even a larger pool but will work equally fine in a smaller pool. One of the interesting features of the Cyborg is the flashing LED light that is built into the lid of the cleaner. When the Cyborg is functioning properly and is moving in the pool the LED light will be flashing green. When it is not moving or there is something jammed in the turbine it will not flash.

The overall design of the Cyborg is much like the Pentair Rebel and Hayward PoolCleaner 2-wheel cleaner. I would say the wall climbing ability is very similar to the Rebel and you will have to adjust the suction down at times to keep it from climbing out of the waterline in a pool. The turbine for picking up debris is also very much like the Pentair Rebel. It can easily pick up larger leaf debris as well as dirt in your pool. 

So why would you go with the Cyborg over the other 2-wheel type cleaners already on the market? I think the main reason would be the price point of the cleaner. It is less expensive, but it does the same job in the pool and the more expensive counterparts. In my testing of the Cyborg, I think it did an exceptional job in the pools that I used it in.  I have run a Cyborg in a very large 30,000-gallon pool and in a very small 8,000-gallon pool and it has performed excellently in both. So, the Cyborg is offered as another alternative for a suction side cleaner for your pool and it would be a solid choice.

Since it is a gear type cleaner it won’t get stuck in the step areas or in a corner of a pool.  It features a swivel on top to prevent the hoses from coiling up and twisting on themselves. And it features a very quick release clip on the body to release the top of the cleaner so that you can easily access the turbine to remove any debris jammed inside.

It is a very simple cleaner also and set up is quick and easy. Included are all the parts you will need to connect it to your pool skimmer, and you can also easily connect it to your pool’s vacuum port/side port with a Vac-Lock (not included).  

Here is more about the Cyborg from the manufacturer:

• Easy to install in minutes without tools
• Included 40-foot hose with an anti-twist swivel to keep the hose from twisting or kinking
• Turbine drive cleaner with a smart skirt for thorough cleaning of the pool from dirt and debris
• Optimized rubber wheel grip and bumpers go over obstacles and surfaces
• LED light lights up when powered and cleaning

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Retail Swimming Pool Stores 101

Everyone seems to have widely differing opinions on retail pool stores. Either you love them, hate them or you fall somewhere in between. With the advent of online internet pool stores, the retail pool store was supposed to go away a few years ago. But that is not the case and they have even become stronger I think because of the internet.

One reason retail pool stores have gained traction over the online stores is that the big and small manufacturers want them to stay in business. So, they tailor specific products that can only be purchased at a retail pool store. Jandy has effectively “left the internet” as they put and only make their products available at your local retail pool store or from your pool service provider. Dolphin, Water Tech, Pentair, Hayward to name a few also make retail pool store only products.

One of the benefits of buying a product from a retail pool, the store is the warranty on the product. Some manufacturers will offer a bonus year and even 3-4 years of a warranty on a product that you have purchased from a retail pool store. Many manufacturers limit online warranties to just 30 days or no warranty period whatsoever. Legal or not, they are punishing you for shopping online.  So why are these big manufacturers so keen on supporting the local brick and mortar pool stores?

I I think the answer is simple. Retail pool stores will advertise a product for a manufacturer in their print ads and online ads and they also need to stock the item. If you sold a product wouldn’t you want someone to order 1,000 units at a wholesale price from you versus you stocking the product and then buying 10 each week to ship out via their online storefront.  Yes, some large online pool stores do stock products but not to the extent that the retail pool store needs to. So, the manufacturers really need the retail pool stores to thrive so that their product gets in as many hands as possible.

So why do so many people tend to hate retail pool stores? I think the answer is that many will upsell products that are not needed or even wanted by the customer. You are entering a retail store like Best Buy or Kohl’s so the employees want to sell you stuff. If you walk in uneducated and looking like a lamb for the slaughter, you can easily be taken. I suggest doing your research before walking into a retail pool store. Research what the potential problem is or the product you want to purchase. Read up on it online first and then walk in educated and ready to purchase what you need. This is what I do when I am looking for something new to purchase at Best Buy. If I am looking at a new drone I will research it to death before I lay the cash down on the counter. You should be doing the same before you walk into a pool store.

There are many good people who own pool stores and really want to help you. They live in your neighborhood and even use the services you provide to them from your business. I really like the Mom & Pop pool stores and you will find the owner to be very knowledgeable about all the pool products and services they offer. I think there is no way to say pool stores are bad and give a blanket rating to all the retail pool stores out there. Like anything, there are good and bad owners and good and bad employees.

If you walk out of a pool store with $400 worth of chemicals, is it their fault for selling them to you? I don’t think so. You were ignorant of what you actually needed, and you left your self-open to be upsold a bunch of stuff you didn’t need. Should they have a good moral compass and only sell you what you need? Yes, but that comes with the premise that there are good owners and bad owners and good employees and bad employees. It is up to you to do the research and purchase what you need.

The bottom line is this. Retail pool stores serve a great purpose of having products, chemicals, and parts right on the spot for you. You pay more for having the convenience of walking in and then walking out with the product you need. The manufacturers need them too and will give customers the incentives of great warranties, rebates on products and specific pool store only products. This is actually a good thing and something that will benefit you as a retail pool store shopper.

Good or bad retail pool stores are here to stay and in my opinion, they are a vital part of the pool and spa industry.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Pool Guy Podcast Show Hosting Sites and App Listings

I started my Podcast back in July of 2017 and it has really grown over the last two years. In order to keep the content fresh and to give listeners more options, I decided to post a Podcast every weekday starting at the beginning of May this year. The feedback has been great, and I will continue with the format of a full Episode every Monday and a shorter 5-6 minute Episode Tues – Friday called a MiniCast.

I am on over 12 Podcast Hosting sites and you can listen and subscribe to any of these below:

iTunes: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-pool-guy-show-podcast/id1257613192

Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/4vBthPxqaNIAlw4LFVB2m3

Google Play: https://play.google.com/music/listen?pcampaignid=MKT-na-all-co-pr-mu-pod-16#/ps/Imhdwnal25iyl4c2yfceih2ni4y

Stitcher: https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/david-van-brunt/pool-guy-podcast-show

iHeartRADIO: https://www.iheart.com/podcast/256-the-pool-guy-podcast-show-31084340/

Castbox: https://castbox.fm/channel/The-Pool-Guy-Podcast-Show-id1247955?country=us

Podcastaddict: http://podplayer.net/?podId=2158252

PocketCast: https://play.pocketcasts.com/web/discover/podcast/d2c88030-48cf-0135-902b-63f4b61a9224

Tunein: https://tunein.com/podcasts/Sports--Recreation-Podcasts/The-Pool-Guy-Podcast-Show-p1227973/

PlayerFM: https://player.fm/series/the-pool-guy-podcast-show

Radio Public: https://radiopublic.com/the-pool-guy-podcast-show-6BplBM

Blubrry: https://www.blubrry.com/the_pool_guy_show/

Buzzsprout: http://www.buzzsprout.com/110832

The Pool Guy Podcast Show is a weekly Podcast where I talk about everything Swimming Pool Related.  I cover Swimming Pool Chemistry, Basic Pool Care, Swimming Pool Equipment as well as tips and tricks for the Pool Service Professional. I also conduct interviews with those in the Pool Service Industry and do Product Reviews. You will find everything you need right here on my Podcast Show. You can listen directly from the Website and I hope you Subscribe to my Podcast on any of the 12 hosting sites to get the newest episode sent to you. I release a Podcast Episode Monday through Friday. I also post an audio-only version of my Monday Podcast on my YouTube Channel. Tune in and learn all about Pool Care.

As the Host of the Show here is more about me that qualifies me in the Industry:
I am a Pool Service Professional with over 25 years of practical experience. I currently maintain a pool route so I am right there in the trenches every day. I have extensive experience in water chemistry, automatic cleaners, pool filtration, pool equipment, and automated systems.
I work in Southern California and have been in the pool industry since 1988 with a brief hiatus in the late 1990s to buy and sell Real Estate. My wife and I have been following the Dave Ramsey plan for several years and we have paid off all of our debt plus three houses in Southern California - WE ARE DEBT FREE!

Being financially independent has allowed me to freely share my knowledge with others through my videos and articles so that you can save money as you take care of your pool. I give out free advise to whoever asks and you can post a question or comment here, on YouTube, Facebook or my Blog and I will answer it to the best of my ability at no charge to you.
I am the creator of the #1 Swimming Pool Channel on YouTube which attracts viewers from within the industry and your typical homeowner who manages their own pool. My YouTube Channel Started in 2012 has over 64,000 subscribers and over 34 Million video views.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.