Swimming Pool Stains

Pool stains can be the hardest things to deal with and they can be hard to treat and identify. It can be very discouraging to see your beautiful pool surface marred by a large rust stain.  But don’t panic just yet, it might not be as bad as it looks. I will cover some remedies for both rust stains and organic stains that you will find in your pool as well as how to tell them apart.

Rust stains usually come from an object that is dropped in your pool. It can be a screw in a toy that junior left in the pool all week. Recently I found two nerf guns on the bottom of a pool and when I moved one of them, sure enough, there was a nice sized rust mark on the plaster. The screw in the gun was the source of the staining. It can be from toy cars with metal rods in the wheel or any other toy with metal parts. I highly suggest only allowing pool toys in your pool, toys made specifically to be in the water.

I’ve also seen batteries explode in the pool. I suppose it is from the water pressure, but when that

happens it leaves a very nasty stain on the pool bottom. You will have a dark center portion and then a rust stain explosion from the center point. I have even had kids playing with 10 lbs. weight in a pool and leaving it in there all week. It left a huge stain in a circular pattern.  Bobby Pins and Clothes Pins are also a big source of rust staining. I find a few every year in a pool or spa and they leave nice thin stain all over the bottom.  Fertilizer pellets are another source and, on the bag, it states not to get them in your driveway because of the staining it can create. When they are carelessly dropped into your pool they sit on the pool bottom and leave BB type stains all over the pool floor.

To remove these stains, you can rub the spot with a vitamin C tablet or apply Ascorbic Acid in powder form to the affected area. The stain will usually simply lift off after a few minutes or with your scrubbing. In a fiberglass pool, Ascorbic Acid is very effective in removing stains that cover the entire surface.  If you can reach the stain with a Vitamin C tablet you can usually rub it off without any issues. For the areas, you might not be able to reach you can put some crushed Vitamin C tablets in a thin sock and set it over the stain. Another good option is the Stain Eraser which is a tool that connects to a standard pool pole and can be used to rub off a stain.

Something that looks a lot like a rust stain or metal stain is an organic stain. This is caused by organic debris like a leaf and sometimes dirt that will temporally stain the pool surface. It is usually a dark brown or black stain on the pool surface. Once you remove the debris from the pool bottom you will see the staining. Usually, the pool will have very low or no chlorine present in the water. To remove organic staining, you can raise the chlorine level up to shock levels and circulate the pool water. A good way to test if the stain is organic is to rub a 3” chlorine tablet on top of it. If the stain lifts immediately it was an organic stain.

Since I am talking about the 3” chlorine tablets, make sure one of these never falls into the pool and remains on the surface. These tablets also contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid and they will stain your pool surface very quickly. You will see a burn mark in the plaster in the shape of the tablet and these stains are hard to remove. So be very careful when you put the 3” Tablets into a floater and set it in your pool.

Metal staining can look like black or brown splotches on the pool surface. They are sometimes tough to identify and treat and in some cases, the only remedy is to drain and acid wash the pool. You can try some of the topical metal stain removing products like Bio-Dex Aquadex 50, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, and the like.  These products can be hit and miss especially if the metal stain is older. You can also help remove the stains with a metal sequestering agent likes Jack’s Magic Pink or Magenta Stuff. This will help suspend the metal ions in the water and then you can use a Culator 4.0 to extract the metal from the water.

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Raypak Protege SF Sand Filter for Your Above Ground Pool

One thing about above ground pools is that almost all of the kit pools ship with very small filters. This is mainly because of the price point of the entire pool to keep the price affordable. But you wouldn’t run your in-ground 10,000 gallon pool on a small 35 sq ft filter so why would it be acceptable to run the same size body of water with such a small filter? Fortunately, Raypak has the answer with their SF Above Ground Sand Filters which are sold in 6 different sizes.

For an after market filter the SF Sand Filter is a simple plug and play filter. It comes with both standard 1.5” fittings and hose connector fittings. All you need to do is open the top and add the recommended amount of sand or alternate filter media.

Here is more about the SF Series Filter:

The Raypak Protege SF Sand Filter without pump, is an easy to operate, reliable sand pool filter. Constructed of a one-piece rotomolded tank of high-impact resistant polymers that is unaffected by UV rays or temperature extremes. On top of the SF filter is a high-flow multi-port valve with union connections. A clean/dirty pressure gauge is easy to read, and the oversized valve handle and drain plug are easy to operate. Connect your above ground pump, you are ready to roll.

The Raypak Protege SFP Sand Filter System comes with the Protege SF sand filter and an AGP above ground pool pump. The SFP makes installation simple and comes with a pre-installed plumbing package and sturdy base for mounting pump and filter. A complete aboveground filter system, the only thing missing is the filter sand; which can be purchased separately and included with your order.

Please select below from Protege Sand Filters Only, or Protege Filter Systems, complete with Filter, Pump, Pipe and Mounting Base.

Filter Sizing: We have five Raypak SF filter tank sizes, and recommend an upsize for each 5,000 gallons of pool water, for best results and longest filter cycles. The 14" filter is suitable for 5000 gal pools, the 16" for 10000 gal pools, the 18" filter for 15000 gal pools, 21" filter for 20000 gal pools and the 25" filter for pools over 25000 gals.

Upsizing, or buying one size larger is recommended for pool filters. The largest Raypak sand filter systems, with the 1.5 hp pump, operate best on a pool with two suction outlets and two returns where possible. Larger sand filters can clear up adverse water conditions faster, or prevent them in the first place, when the water is already over-filtered.

Filter Cleaning: Sand filter systems are backwashed clean to restore water flow. When pressure rises 7-9 psi, simply shut off the pump, roll-out your backwash hose (sold separately), turn the multiport valve to the Backwash position, and turn the pump back on to flush out dirt and debris from the filter. We recommend using a sand filter cleaner chemical each time before backwashing, adding a few ounces and soaking overnight, then backwashing the following morning.

If you are struggling with your current above ground pool and are experience poor water quality, upgrading the filter will go a long way in clearing it up. It will also make it easier to maintain and you will use a lot less chemicals each week as the larger filter will keep the water sanitized longer and keep the water cleaner. A sand filter is one of the easiest filters to operate and a good choice for an above ground pool.

These filters are so popular and affordable that Raypak has a hard time keeping them in stock.

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Do These Swimming Pool Products Really Work?

When it comes to any product in any industry it is hard to tell if it will work or not until you use it or enough people use it to leave reliable feedback and reviews. The same is true for many swimming pool products for sale on the market today. Do they work as they claim or are they just a gimmick, snake oil? Let me start with a few categories and go down the list.

Stain Removers:

These are always hit and miss just by the nature of staining. You need to know what kind of stain it is first to know which product will be effective. For example, you would treat an organic stain differently than a metal stain and a rust stain different from a metal stain or discoloration. I find that the best three products I have used for stains are, Bio-Dex Aquadex 50, HASA Super Stain out, and United Chemical Pool Stain Treat. But I have also had failures with them so none of these are bullet-proof.

Pool Surface Scale Remover:

Until I find something better Beautec by Easy Care has been the best scale removal product I have used for pool surfaces. Note that I said pool surfaces and not the tile line. The tile line can be tricky and even products like Bio-Dex Protect All Supreme are hit and miss. That is because that calcium line can be tough to clean with any topical chemical. For a really bad scale on the waterline, the only real solution is a professional glass beader. But for scale on your pool surface, this stuff to me works the best

CYA Reducer:

Both Bio-Active and now Natural Chemistry has a CYA reducing product and from the reviews, you can see that these products are very hit and miss. Maybe more miss than hit in many respects. They both use a microorganism that destroys the CYA in the pool. The problem is that the water needs to be just about perfect for it to work. The key is having a zero chlorine reading which in itself is problematic. Plus there is no way to tell if your CYA is at 200 or 300 ppm so even if it were to drop it by 30 ppm, that is not enough nor does it justify the cost. Water is still the cheapest element in your pool and draining is pretty much a sure bet that your CYA will be reduced.

Phosphate Removers:

I think one of the most bullet-proof products out there is phosphate removers. Phosphates are the food source for algae and if you eliminate the food source, you destroy the algae. Pretty simple.

There are many brands of Phosphate removers out there. Natural Chemistry makes a popular one in PHOSfree and then there is the Orenda PR 10,000. Adding a phosphate remover to control algae is a great way to keep your pool clear and blue all season long. I have been using a phosphate remover in most of my service accounts now for a few years and the results are very noticeable. Very little to no algae all season long.

Borates:

I am a huge fan of adding borates to your pool to bring the level to 30-50 ppm and I think borates are a game-changer for most pools. With borates in your pool, you will not only have more sparkle to your water but it is a natural algae preventer and pH buffer. This means a pool with borates will have no algae (al long as the chlorine is in range) and the pH will tend to stay stable week to week. Borates are one product that works so well that no wholesale supplier nor many retail pool stores will stock it as it reduces the sale of their other chemicals.

I think before you purchase any pool product, check the reviews, and see if others have had success with it. I tend to toss out the really bad one-star reviews and the gushing 5-star reviews and see what normal reviewers think about a product before I purchase it.

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Removing Swimming Pool Stains from Your Pool Bio-Dex AquaDex 50

Removing pool stains with a topical chemical can be done in a lot of cases. You just need to know what is normal plaster mottling (discoloration) and what may be a stain that only a drain and acid wash or replaster will remove. I have had good success removing the stain on pool surfaces with Bio Dex Aquadex 50 Stain-Off.

If you look at the reviews of just about any stain removing product you will see a mix of 5-star reviews and 1-star reviews. Of course, the 5-star reviews are that the product worked. The 1-star reviews that it did not. And again, that is the nature of stain removing products. Some stains are just not going to lift off. So is it worth spend $20-$50 on a product that may lift a stain off? I think so and I often tell my customers I will try this or that product with a disclaimer that it may not work. For the price and the possibility that a stain will be removed or dramatically improved it is worth it. The alternative is to just live with the stain without trying anything.

Here is more on the product from Bio Dex:

“Aquadex 50 Stain-Off / Spa Stain Off removes copper iron and metallic stains from plaster pools and black cobalt stains from fiberglass. Stain removal results can be noticed within 48 hours up to 10 days depending on how old or fresh the stains are. The product is stable at higher temperatures so works well in the spa environment. The effectiveness of Aquadex 50 Stain Off will not be compromised by chlorine, acid or other sanitizing products. The product can be mixed with Plaster White ‘n Brite as a booster for removing difficult metal stains in an acid wash.

Aquadex 50 Stain-Off Features

Metal stain remover. Quickly removes metal stains in spas, pools, and fountains. It stays stable at high temperatures. Stain removal will be apparent in one to 10 days depending on the age of the stain and severity. The second application might be necessary after 10 days.

Aquadex 50 Stain-Off Instructions

Aquadex 50 Stain off is applied directly to the water where the staining exists. Swimmers can enter the water after thirty minutes. High temperatures will not affect the product’s stability. Stain removal takes time and may require additional treatment for resistant stains. Run the filter often and for complete results within 10 days. Lower pH of 7.2 rather than 7.8 for best results.”

One of the biggest successes of the product is using it with a full acid wash. It does a great job removing the metal stains from the plaster or pebble surface and I highly recommend using it with every acid wash. I have had some very good results with the product when used in an acid wash. Sometimes acid alone can’t remove metal staining and the Aquadex 50 will get stains off that otherwise would be left behind. It is very easy to use during an acid wash as you simply add the product directly to the water/acid mixture before pouring it on the surface.

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How to Keep your Pool Blue All Season Long

There are so many aspects to pool care that you may get lost and confused and not know where to start. The key to everything you do with your pool should be focused on the #1 goal of pool care. To put it simply you are making sure the pool is safe to swim in. Basically, no one will get sick by going into your pool or a pool on your service route.

To achieve this goal you need to have these three elements working together at all times. Filtration, Circulation and Sanitizer. This sounds pretty basic but there are a lot of factors that go into making sure all three of these are working together. If anyone of these three is out of the equation, chances are the pool will not be safe to swim in.

Filtration:

Your pool' filter is often overlooked and in fact, it is the key to the entire equation. If your filter is undersized, dirty or in poor working order circulation and sanitizer are affected negatively. You can run your pool for 24 hours with a dirty filter and have plenty of chlorine (sanitizer) in the water and you will have cloudy water or water that is not safe to swim in.

To correct this make sure your filter elements – grids or cartridges are in good working order. Both grids and the cartridges wear out and need to be replaced as well as the sand in your Sand Filter. Also, keeping your filter clean goes a long way in infiltration. A very dirty filter just won’t move the water well nor will it make the chlorine in the water affective.

Circulation:

You can have a brand new filter and you can add 2 gallons of chlorine to your 20,000 gallon pool, but if you run your pump only 2 hours a day chances are the chlorine will not hold and the water will become cloudy or algae-filled. It is like adding sugar to your coffee and not stirring it before drinking it. Without the pool pump running the correct amount of time to circulate the water in your pool, you can’t maintain a safe pool.

You will want at least one full cycle each day during the season. This is all of the water going from the pump into the filter and back out again until all of the water in the pool has passed through the filter. So for that 20,000-gallon pool, a run time with a single-speed pump should be about 8-10 hours each day. Otherwise, the filter just can’t work effectively and the chlorine will not circulate in the pool. Like that cup of coffee with all that sugar on the bottom.

Sanitizer (Chlorine):

You can have a clean or new filter and run your pump 24-hours, but unless you have a chlorine level of 1.5-3ppm in the pool, within a few days to a week in the Summer that pool will be looking like a swamp. The third element in the equation is just as critical as the other two. I even prefer to have my chlorine levels on the pools on my route at 3-5 ppm to give me some added cushion.

I also am a big fan of using a chlorine enhancer. These are products that boost the chlorine's effectiveness by freeing up the chlorine so that it works on only what it needs to. For example, if you add a Phosphate and Enzyme you are eliminating the food source for any algae in the pool, thereby freeing u the chlorine to work on other things in the pool. Since it is not being used up fighting algae in the pool it will last longer and be more effective. The same if you were to add a PoolRx or borates to your pool. These enhancers will free up the chlorine to work more effectively.

If any of these three elements are off like a 3-legged stool your pool will not be able to stay in balance. Filtration, circulation, and sanitization are the three key things to focus on if you want a crystal-clear pool all season long.

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Leslie's Pool Supply Wholesale

If you are a pool service pro you may not know that Leslie’s Pool Supplies has a Wholesale Division. This means if you are a pool service provider you can open an account at Leslie’s and receive your products at wholesale pricing. But the benefits only begin at that point and there are actually a number of reasons to open a Wholesale account.

As mentioned with a Leslie’s Wholesale account you will receive the same or very similar pricing that you would get from your local wholesale distributor. To open a wholesale account you can simply walk into a Leslie’s location and fill out a form with the manager. All you need is a business card. It is that simple! You can also apply online at this link here:

https://www.lesliespool.com/commercial-sales.htm/?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=spll&utm_campaign=spll

If you also carry at least $1 million dollars in General Liability Insurance you can be added to their referral list. What does that mean? Since Leslie’s does not do weekly pool maintenance if a customer walks in and needs weekly pool service the manager will simply give them your card. This is a great way to get new service accounts and it is one of the great perks of opening a Leslie’s Wholesale account.

Another great reason to open an account is that Leslie’s is open 7 days a week. They are also open later than your local Wholesale location so if you need anything after hours or on the weekend they are open. So getting set up for the next day later in the evening or getting parts and chemicals on the weekends is something your local Wholesale location can’t offer. The managers and staff at Leslie’s can also help you in other ways.

One of these is that if you have an automatic cleaner that needs to be repaired, simply take it into your local Leslie’s store and they will repair it at no charge, just parts. Many times you just don’t have the time to mess with cleaner repairs and Leslie’s is there to help. They will also double-check any water sample you bring in so that you can be rest assured your readings are accurate. There are two additional services your local Wholesale location doesn’t offer.

Since Leslie’s does not do weekly pool service one of the nice things about opening a wholesale account is that you can easily refer any installations and repairs directly to them without fear of another company soliciting business from your customers. Leslie’s can do most equipment installs and you can rest assured the work will be completed professionally. This also comes in handy when you get too busy on your route to get to a repair, simply refer the customer out to your local Leslie’s Pool Supplies for the repair.

Benefits:

Special Commercial Pricing: Common commercial items at great savings. We can customize a price list for your more commonly used items to help save even more!

Convenient Purchasing Locations: Purchase at any one of our over 900 retail stores, 17 Commercial Service Centers and our eCommerce department 24 hours a day / 7 days a week.

Free Same Day/Next Day Delivery: We offer this service within 25 miles of our locations! Certain restrictions apply.

National Service Department: We have qualified service technicians across the country to support your equipment installation and repair needs.

On-Site Solutions: We offer free on-site inspection and will work with you to design the best possible solution for your needs. Certain restrictions apply.

Commercial Partners: We serve a variety of commercial customers, including hotels, motels, apartment complexes, trade professionals, HOAs, and government organizations.

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Why is my Pool Not Holding Chlorine?

There are a few steps to go through if your pool is not holding chlorine week to week and there are also several things you can do to ensure you have a consistent chlorine level each week. I go over some common reasons why your pool may not be holding chlorine and some remedies for you.

One of the biggest problems that you can run into with your swimming pool is that it stops holding chlorine. We refer to this in the industry is as the chlorine zeroing out. There are a number of reasons for this and it is more noticeable in the Spring and Summer when the weather starts heating up and the Sun’s UV Rays become stronger. I will touch on the most common reasons why your pool is not holding chlorine week to week.

One of the first things to look at is the pool’s filtration system in run time. This is often overlooked and is crucial to the pool holding chlorine. If the skimmer basket is clogged with debris or the pump basket is clogged the pool will not circulate well. The filter is just as crucial so if it is dirty or the cartridges or grids have tears in them, chances are the pool will have a zero-chlorine reading due to the organic contaminates not being filtered out properly. First, check your pool filtration and your skimmer and pump baskets and make sure they are running efficiently.

Next is the overall pool run time. If you are not running your pool long enough each week, chances are the chlorine level will be low each week. Make sure you are running your pool for at least one cycle each day which all the water in the pool is going into the filter and then back out into the pool. If you are running a Variable Speed pump know that on a lower speed the pump needs to run longer. If you were running your standard pump 8 hours a day it was running at a speed of 3450 RPM. So if you set your VS pump for 8 hours and run it at 1800 RPM that is less than 1/3 the actual run time as before. You may be running your VS pump way too short and at too low the RPM for it to be effective. The same is true for your standard speed pump. A good rule is to run your pump as much as you can until the pool starts holding chlorine.

If you have a Salt Water System (Salt Water Generator) and you do not run your pool long enough, the salt cell cannot produce enough chlorine each day to reach a sustainable level. You can also have the pool running long enough but you may have the salt output set too low. Set the salt output to 100% and then decrease it down if it is producing too much chlorine. Not the other way around.

Algae, Organic Debris, Phosphates, and Nitrates can all affect the chlorine in the pool also. If your pool has visible algae chances are the chlorine is being used up fast as it tries to fight the algae. Phosphates and the less common Nitrates can also quickly destroy the pool’s chlorine level. If the pool water is cloudy or there are visible algae, then there is a water quality issue. One way to solve this is to bring the chlorine level up to shock levels of 20 ppm and run the pool for 12-24 hours. You may also have too little Conditioner (CYA) in the pool. Test the CYA level and make sure it is at least at 30 ppm, otherwise, the Sun will burn off the chlorine within hours.

 You could also be using bad chlorine. What I mean by this is chlorine that is expired, especially in the case of liquid chlorine. Over time the power of the chlorine gets weaker. Just like leaving a gallon of bleach in your laundry room and not using it for several months. When you do use it you will notice that it is very weak and does almost nothing when added to the washer. Liquid chlorine also will get weaker over time. So if you purchase it at your local Walmart or Home Depot don’t be surprised if it is ineffective because they failed to rotate their stock. Shock in a bag has a shelf life of about 2 years but that to can get weaker over time. Keep your chlorine fresh by purchasing what you need when you need it and try to buy it from a local pool store versus the big box retail or hardware stores.

These are a few reasons why your chlorine level may be zeroing out each week. There are more but I find these to be the most common.

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Hayward pHin Smart Water Monitor Review

The Hayward pHin is marketed as a Smart Water Monitor so what exactly does that mean? There are a slew of these devices now and in a nutshell, these are floating devices that have digital probe/sensor which will read the pool’s pH, ORP (Sanitation) and Temperature. Some will also do salinity but the pHin only does those three parameters. The pHin will send you the results from the probe directly to your smartphone and recommend the adjustment needed to balance your pool water.

Of course none of these floating digital water monitors can currently do Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness (or Total Hardness) and CYA and the pHin has a pretty nice workaround for this so that you can get a true idea if your pool is balanced. Included are 25 test strips that you scan into the pHin app by taking a photo of said test strip after dipping it into your pool. The pHin then records the Total Alkalinity, Total Hardness, and CYA and will let you know if they are in range.

Back to the three tests that the pHin can do with the digital probe. It will actually send you over 1,000 readings per week of the pH, ORP, and water temperature which is really cool for the nerd DIY homeowner type or a pool geek like me. The results from the pHin are pretty spot on too and if the alert says your pH is high, it more than likely is. I actually have another pH, ORP and Temperature monitor in my pool, as well as four photometer testers and a hand, held a digital pH probe and I was able to verify the pHin readings in my pool.

The initial first year of monitoring is free and after that each additional year is $99 per year. So about $8.25 month. I think it is worth it to know if your pool is swim-ready and safe, especially if you use your pool often. Here is more on how the pHin tests the sanitation level in your pool.

“Traditionally, water chemistry is measured about one time per week. This certainly helps to monitor the health of your water, but we, at pHin, have developed a smarter approach. pHin measures your vessels’ pH, sanitizer and temperature over 1000 times per week.

There are many environmental factors that affect water chemistry like: usage, weather, water temperature, sunlight exposure, etc. pHin’s built-in intelligence takes all of that collected information, analyzes it and then creates recommendations based on your pool or hot tub’s unique averages.

This means that pHin’s recommendations may be different from what you are used to or what your pool store recommends, but we find when customers follow our recommendations their pools are more likely to stay balanced.” -pHin

The app is really well made and it will display various things for you. The Home screen will let you know right away if the pool needs some attention which is a nice feature. Here is more on what the pHin includes:

Water history charts

Easy, accurate chemical dosing directions

Alerts for when attention is needed

Tests for total alkalinity, total hardness, and cyanuric acid monthly or as needed

Shareable water data for in-person help or to order new chemicals at your favorite pool store

Unlimited pHin monitor replacement warranty

AUTOMATIC NOTIFICATIONS: The pHin app automatically alerts you when you need to adjust your chemicals and lets you know exactly how much of which chemicals to use. Works with both Android and iOS.

TAKES GUESSWORK OUT OF ADDING CHEMICALS: Scan any supported chemical’s barcode and the pHin app will calculate how much to add to your water. Supports most major chemical brands.

POOL AND HOT TUB CARE SIMPLIFIED: Instead of showing you continuously changing raw readings, pHin’s built-in intelligence samples your water chemistry more than 1000 times per week and creates customized recommendations based on your pool or hot tub’s unique measurements.

SUPPORTS ALL WATER TYPES: Works with chlorine, bromine, and salt water-based pools, hot tubs and swim spas.

LIFETIME WARRANTY: Your pHin Smart Water Care Monitor has a lifetime warranty. If it ever fails while you are a paying subscriber, we will send you a new monitor free of charge.

I like these floating smart pool monitors and really think that this is where pool testing is moving in the future. The pHin was one of the first of these devices and is still one of the best.

To order the pHin:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S5Y9BPD/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=9764ae3e3c949475597fd8535017964f&creativeASIN=B07S5Y9BPD

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