Swimming Pool Suction Side Cleaner Not Moving

Here are a few things about the equipment that I check first when I find a cleaner not moving in the pool:

1. Make sure the filter is clean- if it is a D.E. Filter, Clean it or Backwash it. For a Sand Filter, Backwash it to make sure it is clean. For a Cartridge Filter, open it up and clean the cartridges.

2. Ensure the filter operates correctly – no broken grids or old cartridges. If the PSI on the gauge is over 25-30, the cleaner may not work. The optimal filter PSI is around 20 or less.

3. Make sure the pump is working correctly. If air gets into the pump, the cleaner may not move. This is called a vacuum leak or suction leak. Air will prevent the pump from pulling water the extra 30 ft through the cleaner hose. You can typically check for an air leak by disconnecting the cleaner. If the pump primes up fine but loses its prime once you reconnect the cleaner, I would suspect an air leak. The likely location is the threaded fitting on top of the pump and the threaded fitting going into the pump. I would also check the pump lid o-ring.

4. Make sure the cleaner has proper suction. If it is connected to the pool skimmer with the OEM regulator valve that came with your cleaner – refer to the manual for proper adjustment. For example, if it is a Hayward Aquanaut, the regulator with it has a dial on it. Close the dial to increase the cleaner's suction, and then open the dial to increase the skimmer's suction. If the cleaner is connected at the side/vacuum port, make sure that you adjust the valve so that enough suction goes to the cleaner.

5. Check the pump basket. If the pump basket is clogged with debris, it will sometimes slow the cleaner down and stop it completely. Clean the pump basket out.

6. If you have a Variable Speed (VS) pump, make sure that your pump is set at a high enough speed, known as RPM. Typically, most cleaners will need at least 2600 RPM to operate correctly. Sometimes more and sometimes less. I usually start at 3100 RPM and then dial it down from there.

Here is what to check on the cleaner itself:

1. Check for any debris clogging the mouth of the cleaner. It is best to do this with the cleaner running. Carefully pull it to the side of the pool, and with the cleaner head still underwater, turn it so you can see the more sterile opening. Check for any rocks, piles of leaves, and even a rodent stuck in the mouth.

2. If it is a bouncing type cleaner, typically, it has a rubber diaphragm (Zodiac Cleaners). Check the diaphragm for any tears or cuts. Replacing it is easy and will likely get those cleaners moving again.

3. If you have an MX cleaner – Zodiac MX8 or MX6 and any variation of those two, typically the tracks are worn out. It could also be the Directional Device.

4. If it is a Hayward Navigator or Hayward Pool Vac, it is more than likely a worn-out A-Frame and Turbine. You would purchase the A-Frame kit and replace it to get the Navigator or Pool Vac moving again.

5. Sometimes, a hose section gets debris clogged inside of it. To check for this, with the pool running, pull off the first hose section from the cleaner and remove the cleaner head. Keeping the hose underwater, pull off each section one by one until you find the hose section clogged with debris. You want the pool on because you will not feel any suction until you reach the clogged hose and remove it. Then, you will feel the pool suction through the hose again. Just be sure to keep the hoses underwater so that the pump will not suck air.

6. If there is a canister, sometimes it can get full of debris and become impacted. In that case, simply empty the canister.

These are the main reasons an automatic suction side cleaner will stop moving.

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VacDaddy NEW! Large Debris Bags

 The VacDaddy is constantly improving and innovating, and with their new larger bags, the VacDaddy is even more versatile. The new bags increase debris capacity by 60%, making vacuuming more accessible.

 

New Felt Filter Bag

$44.95

 The new and improved VacDaddy Felt Filter Bag offers a more durable option for cleaning. Now, with a 60% larger surface area and 108% bigger volume, this bag features 75-micron cleaning. The density of the bag traps more fine debris, enabling you to put more polish on your pool, and traps finer particles than our competitor's simple nylon mesh bags.

 New Mesh Filter Bag

$44.95

 The new and improved VacDaddy Mesh Filter Bag offers a lightweight, easy cleaning, filtration. Now with a 60% larger surface area and 108% bigger volume. This bag features cleaning to 200 microns, perfect for weekly vacuums and touch-ups. We like the mesh bag for ease of use and quick cleaning when the bag is full.

 New Leaf Filter Bag-PREORDER NOW!

$44.95

 With a cleaning capacity of 100 microns, the new VacDaddy Leaf Filter Bag allows smaller particles (dust, dirt, sand, mud, algae) to pass through while protecting the impeller from larger debris such as leaves, sticks, acorns, etc. Its user-friendly design makes it a go-to choice for quick cleaning when the bag reaches its capacity. Elevate your pool care routine with the convenience and effectiveness of the VacDaddy Leaf Filter Bag.

 The vacuum-to-waste aspect of the VacDaddy is a true game-changer for your pool route. Now, you can use the VacDaddy to do clean-ups, green pool clean-ups, and any other use that requires a portable pump to vacuum a pool to waste. This makes the VacDaddy a truly versatile vacuum and expands its service from a daily vacuum to a device that takes the place of a larger portable pump.

 Here is more about the VacDaddy unit from the manufacturer:

The primary benefit of The VacDaddy is EASE-OF-USE.

Lightweight and compact. At only 10 pounds, The VacDaddy is easy to operate and maneuver.

The minimal assembly is easy and intuitive. No special training is required to use it. Plug in and Just Vac It.

Fast pool cleaning with more vacuuming power than other heavy-duty commercial vacuums.

Eliminates the need to set up and prime a bulky hose.

Perfect for touch-ups between weekly cleanings and to reach areas robotic vacuums can't quickly get to.

 The VacDaddy is the most potent portable pool vacuum new to the market with a continuous power supply. The VacDaddy's continuous power eliminates dependency on batteries with limited life. The VacDaddy is lightweight, easy to use, powerful, and requires no poolside assembly or training.

 So, where would I place the VacDaddy as compared to, say, a Riptide, Hammer-Head, or PowerVac? It does pump a pretty impressive 55-60 GPM, so it is not like a Water Tech cleaner, except the Precision 2.0 that pulls about 25 GPM. It looks similar to the 2.0, but the power difference sets the Vac Daddy apart. It feels like you are using the pool filtration system with the vacuum connected to the skimmer. In reality, most pools will pull about 60 GPM unless powered by a three-hp pump, considering the resistance of the plumbing and distance from the skimmer. Having all of that power sitting right behind the vac head is fantastic.

You also need access to a socket for this to work at your customer's home. It comes with a power unit that needs to be plugged in. Most pool owners will have a socket by their pool or equipment area. It comes with 45 45-foot cord that attaches from the power unit to the VacDaddy and has the look and feel of a robotic pool cleaner cable. The cord was not a big deal for me as I knew that the 60 GPM would only be produced by an external power source.

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Degrii Zima Pro Hybrid Robotic Pool Cleaner

The Degrii Zima Pro is a hybrid cordless robotic pool cleaner that will give you more options than your standard cordless robotic pool cleaner. The battery is in a floating tethered control box which will give it a longer run time -3 hours and it allows the cleaner to be app controlled. One thing wifi cannot do is work underwater. 

Another benefit of having app control is that the Firmware of the cleaner can easily be updated. After testing the cleaner for a month, I received a new Firmware update that corrected a few things in the cleaning pattern. This will make the Zima Pro even better in the future with each software update.

Let's get the negative points out of the way. The cable from the robot to the controller is 11.5 ft. This should be good for most pools with standard deep ends of 6 ft to 10 ft. It is a rather heavy robot weighing over 20 lbs, and then, of course, you are transporting both the cleaner and the controller back and forth to the pool. Last, the current filters only filter down to 180 microns. So, this cleaner will not pick up the finer dirt.

The app control is very good, and you will find that the manual mode works great as well. You can select floors only, floors and walls (Overall), or walls only. 

The battery comes with a 2-year warranty, and they offer lifetime support.

The good news is that this cleaner works very well. The cleaning pattern is smart, and it does not get stuck on the main drain or step areas of a pool. The floating battery gives it a very long 3-hour run time which is a nice bonus. There is also a Lift button that will allow the cleaner to come to the side of the pool and climb the wall for easy retrieval

Product dimension

55 * 42 * 23.5 cm (22 * 17 *9 inch)

Item weight

11.8 kg

Cleaning mode

Floor, Wall, Overall, Manual

Cleaning coverage

Up to 450 m²

Battery capacity

10,000 mAh

Filter capacity

6.5 L

Cord length

3.5m / 11.4 ft

Max water depth

3m / 11 ft

Minimum water depth

0.6m / 2 ft

Water flow rate

4700 GPH

Suction power

80-200W

Motor Power

250 W

Filter density

180 μm

Runtime

Overall mode: 2-3 hours

Wall mode: 2-3 hours

Floor mode: 2.5-3.5 hours

*All battery claims depend on pool shapes, surface conditions, and many other factors; actual results will vary. The battery has limited recharge cycles and may eventually need to be replaced.*

Bluetooth/Wi-Fi

Yes

Temperature sensor

Yes

Waterproof

IPX8

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Draining Your Swimming Pool

 Draining your swimming pool sounds simple enough. But there are many things to be aware of, and some things you overlook could cost you thousands of dollars and could cause potential damage to your pool.

Plaster/cement and Pebble Tec pools are the only in-ground pool types you can safely drain. If you drain a drop-in fiberglass pool down, the walls may collapse and damage the pool. If you drain in an in-ground vinyl pool, the liner can separate from the wall, severely damaging the pool to the point where you will need a new liner. The drop-in Fiberglass Pool and an in-ground Vinyl Pool should only be drained by a company specializing in them. Otherwise, you can damage these types of pools by draining them down.

The first thing to check is how your city looks at pool draining. Most towns in every region ban draining your pool directly into the gutter outside the street. Here in my area, if you drain a green pool or a blue pool directly into the road in front of your house, you will get cited, and the fines can range from $5,000 to $10,000—a steep price to pay for not following the city rules.

The best place to drain a pool is directly into the sewer line. Locating the sewer line on the property can be the hard part. If the customer has never had his mainline snaked by a plumber, they may not know where it is even located. You are looking for a black pipe with a square cap that will fit an adjustable wrench. Usually, it is 3 inches or more in diameter. I found some right behind the kitchen sink in the house. Sometimes, they are next to a bathroom. I saw a few just on the side of the house. Mine is on my garage floor, covered with a metal cap. If it is set low enough, some may be surrounded by bushes or dirt.

If you need help locating the sewer line, one trick is to use the washing machine waste line. This also goes directly into the sewer. If the washing machine is in a downstairs room or the garage, remove the waste line and insert your pool hose, ensuring it is deep enough to stay in and not fall out. Now, you can drain the pool into the sewer line through the washing machine’s waste line.

You also want to avoid draining the pool directly into the yard around the pool. This may sound like a no-brainer, but letting the water run into the dirt around your pool area may seem convenient. The problem with this is that you put 15,000 or 20,000 gallons of water directly into the soil around your pool, raising the water table – meaning the ground is saturated. Once the pool is empty, the weight of the water is no longer holding the pool down. If the water under the pool is very wet, the pool may lift and pop out. This is called pool pop-out, which is rare, but draining the water into the soil around the pool could cause this.

Speaking of pools popping out, it is infrequent. The ground will need to be saturated with water, which can only happen if you drain the pool into the soil or if you have some severe rain, 4-6 inches in a short time. The pool shell is heavy with all of the gunite and rebar, so it is not a shared experience. A pool builder in Florida constructed over 2,000 pools, and only two pools ever popped out. Both pools were empty after the gunite, and there was hurricane-type rainfall. You should not be concerned about the pool popping out in most areas.

One concern when the pool is empty is the ambient temperature. If you drain a pool in 95-100-degree weather and leave it empty for more than 24 hours, there is a chance the Sun can damage the exposed plaster surface. After refilling, you may notice cracking and chipping of the plaster. This is due to Sun exposure, and if the plaster is older or in poor shape, you risk damaging it by draining the pool on a scorching day. You also want to avoid draining a pool that has chips and cracks in it to begin with. This will lead to more chipping and cracking.

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Saltwater Generator and the Winter Months

Your swimming pool saltwater generator will eventually stop producing chlorine when the water temperature of the pool drops to the low 60-degree mark. In that case, you can turn off your saltwater generator and switch to an alternate chlorine choice. 

Liquid chlorine is best, and you don't need too much in the winter months. Liquid chlorine mimics your saltwater generator and is the closest chlorine type to what your salt cell produces. However, you may want to use Dichlor as a monthly sanitizer since it is about 50% cyanuric acid, and this will allow you to add CYA to your pool in the winter months, and maybe you will not need to recharge your pool's CYA level in the spring. 

You can also do what I do in southern California: install a floater in the pool and tie it to the skimmer lid with a string. That way, it is not floating all over the pool, which could cause some potential staining on the step areas or ledge areas from the Trichlor tablets in the floater. Trichlor tablets are also 50% Cyunaric Acid, and you can add a small amount of CYA to your saltwater pool each week in the Winter using Trichlor tablets. 

In the end, if you do not want to add any CYA to your pool water, use liquid chlorine, which does not contain Cyunaric Acid. 

Below are some tips to make sure when spring arrives, your saltwater generator will be ready to start producing chlorine again. 

Pool Size:

A significant factor is how large your pool is or how many gallons of water are in it. If your pool is 8,000 gallons, the SWG will have an easier time producing chlorine. The larger the pool, the larger the Salt Cell rating is needed and the longer the run time.

Salt Cell Size:

Each SWG has different salt cell sizes. For example, the Intellichor 40 and Hayward T-Cell 15 are rated for a pool of up to 40,000 gallons. The Ichlor 30 and Jandy TruClear are placed for collections up to 30,000—the Intellichlor IC20 is for a pool of up to 20,000 gallons. Your salt cell should be rated for your pool size to be adequate. If you put an IC20 in a 25,000-gallon pool, it must run 24/7 to be partially effective. An IC40 in a 15,000-gallon collection would be ideal, with plenty of margins.

Salt Cell Output Setting:

A SWG will allow you to change the chlorine output on your salt cell. You can run your salt cell at 100% output, meaning as long as the pump is on, the SWG will make chlorine. If you set it at 50%, that means that during one hour when the pump is on, it will be off for 30 minutes and on for 30 minutes. It will only produce ½ the chlorine at 50% output. The output % is another factor.

Pump Run Time:

The longer you run your pool pump, the more chlorine the SWG will produce. If you run your pump for 20 hours, the SWG set at 100% produces more chlorine than a pool running for 10 hours at 100% output. If you have a variable-speed pump, running it at 3000 RPM for 8 hours will produce more chlorine than running it at 2400 RPM for 8 hours. Note that the max speed of a pump is calculated at 3450 RPM, which is the speed of a standard single-speed non-variable speed pump.

Cyanuric Acid Level (CYA):

Like any other form of chlorine, the SWG produces chlorine that needs to be protected from the harsh UV rays of the sun. Ideally, your CYA level should be 30-50 ppm, but if you notice the chlorine level is still not holding, you can increase the CYA to 80 ppm. If the CYA is below 30 ppm, chances are your SWG will be producing chlorine at a rate less than the UV rays' burn-off. Check to make sure the CYA is at alt least 30 ppm.

Overall Water Quality:

Phosphates, nitrates, contaminants like suntan lotion, body oil, and pets swimming all affect how the chlorine produced by your SWG is used up. If you have a Phosphate level over 500 ppb, the chlorine generated won't hold daily. If the pool has a very high bather load every day, the SWG can't keep up with the usage. Treat these issues to ensure the SWG can produce enough chlorine each day. If you have a high bather load, increase the pump run time and set the SWG to 100% output.

Water Temperature:

The colder the water, the less effective the SWG production will be. SWG works poorly in colder water, and most of them stop generating chlorine when the water temperature is in the 60-degree range.

Dirty Salt Cell: 

If the salt cell has calcium buildup on the cell plates, it will produce less chlorine, even at 100% output. Make sure you inspect your salt system regularly to see if any warning lights on the controller indicate a dirty salt cell (calcium buildup on the plates).

Salt Level:

If the salt level is below 3000 ppm, most SWG will work at a reduced output or won't work at all. Make sure to check the pool's salinity level or salt level so that it is at the manufacturer's recommended level.

To set your SWG output, you will need to combine some of these factors to get the 3-5 ppm chlorine output. If you notice that chlorine is at one ppm and your pool's runtime is good, the SWG is set to only 40%, increasing the output. If your output is 100% and your pump is not running long enough, increase your run time. Combining these factors will allow you to set the correct chlorine output level.

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VacDaddy New Larger Bags!

 The VacDaddy is constantly improving and innovating, and with their new larger bags, the VacDaddy is even more versatile. The new bags increase debris capacity by 60%, making vacuuming more accessible.

 

New Felt Filter Bag

$44.95

 

The new and improved VacDaddy Felt Filter Bag offers a more durable option for cleaning. Now, with a 60% larger surface area and 108% bigger volume, this bag features 75-micron cleaning. The density of the bag traps more fine debris, enabling you to put more polish on your pool, and traps finer particles than our competitor's simple nylon mesh bags.

 

New Mesh Filter Bag

$44.95

 

The new and improved VacDaddy Mesh Filter Bag offers a lightweight, easy cleaning, filtration. Now with a 60% larger surface area and 108% bigger volume. This bag features cleaning to 200 microns, perfect for weekly vacuums and touch-ups. We like the mesh bag for ease of use and quick cleaning when the bag is full.

 

New Leaf Filter Bag-PREORDER NOW!

$44.95

 

Experience the ultimate in pool maintenance with the new VacDaddy® Leaf Filter Bag. Offering lightweight construction and effortless cleaning, this bag ensures efficient filtration. Enjoy an astounding 60% larger surface area and an incredible 108% more immense volume, enhancing its debris-catching prowess.

 

With a cleaning capacity of 100 microns, the new VacDaddy Leaf Filter Bag allows smaller particles (dust, dirt, sand, mud, algae) to pass through while protecting the impeller from larger debris such as leaves, sticks, acorns, etc. Its user-friendly design makes it a go-to choice for quick cleaning when the bag reaches its capacity. Elevate your pool care routine with the convenience and effectiveness of the VacDaddy Leaf Filter Bag.

 

The vacuum-to-waste aspect of the VacDaddy is a true game-changer for your pool route. Now, you can use the VacDaddy to do clean-ups, green pool clean-ups, and any other use that requires a portable pump to vacuum a pool to waste. This makes the VacDaddy a truly versatile vacuum and expands its service from a daily vacuum to a device that takes the place of a larger portable pump.

 

Here is more about the VacDaddy unit from the manufacturer:

The primary benefit of The VacDaddy is EASE-OF-USE.

 

Lightweight and compact. At only 10 pounds, The VacDaddy is easy to operate and maneuver.

The minimal assembly is easy and intuitive. No special training is required to use it. Plug in and Just Vac It.

 

Fast pool cleaning with more vacuuming power than other heavy-duty commercial vacuums.

Eliminates the need to set up and prime a bulky hose.

 

Perfect for touch-ups between weekly cleanings and to reach areas robotic vacuums can't quickly get to.

 

The VacDaddy is the most potent portable pool vacuum new to the market with a continuous power supply. The VacDaddy's continuous power eliminates dependency on batteries with limited life. The VacDaddy is lightweight, easy to use, powerful, and requires no poolside assembly or training.

 

The VacDaddy was invented by a 35-year veteran of the pool service industry who has worked with hundreds of pool owners. He has long believed a better way to clean your pool should exist. Commercial vacuums require 20 minutes to set up and detailed instructions to use. Other options include weak-battery vacuums or heavy robots that take hours to clean your pool.

 

Cleaning your carpets doesn't require all this setup and weightlifting, so why should you clean your pool? We have devoted ourselves to perfecting The VacDaddy Pool Vacuum System. The goal was to create a durable, lightweight, powerful cleaner that is easy to use, and we have done just that. The VacDaddy system will allow users to clean their pools in less time with less effort. Like your carpet vacuum, plugin, and JUST VAC IT!

 

So, where would I place the VacDaddy as compared to, say, a Riptide, Hammer-Head, or PowerVac? It does pump a pretty impressive 55-60 GPM, so it is not like a Water Tech cleaner, except the Precision 2.0 that pulls about 25 GPM. It looks similar to the 2.0, but the power difference sets the Vac Daddy apart. It feels like you are using the pool filtration system with the vacuum connected to the skimmer. In reality, most pools will pull about 60 GPM unless powered by a three-hp pump, considering the resistance of the plumbing and distance from the skimmer. Having all of that power sitting right behind the vac head is fantastic.

 

Vacuuming spas and steps are a little tricky. You have to tilt the vacuum down so that you don't shoot water everywhere, which they are addressing soon with an attachment to reduce the water flow.

 

You also need access to a socket for this to work at your customer's home. It comes with a power unit that needs to be plugged in. Most pool owners will have a socket by their pool or equipment area. It comes with 45 45-foot cord that attaches from the power unit to the VacDaddy and has the look and feel of a robotic pool cleaner cable. The cord was not a big deal for me as I knew that the 60 GPM would only be produced by an external power source.

 

It comes with two bags, which seem relatively small compared to a Vacuum System bag. The VacDaddy is not designed for big leaf debris clean-up, but if you have an average amount of leaves and dirt in a pool, this will work perfectly. It is suitable for pools with light to medium debris and dirt.

 

The VacDaddy is positioned to be a player in the portable vacuum sector. Yes, it is hard to categorize precisely, but if you are looking for a tool to speed up your day on your route, this is one to consider.

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Gas Heater VS a Heat Pump Which is Better for Your Swimming Pool?

If you are trying to decide between having a gas heater installed or going with a heat pump, you are in the right place. Each is vastly different, but both can be a viable option under the right circumstances.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that they are set up to either use natural gas or electricity. This means you will need a dedicated gas line run from the meter to the Gas Heater. You will need a larger upgraded gas meter in most cases as well. For the Heat Pump, you will need a dedicated 230V line run to a sub-panel for the Heat Pump since it generates somewhere around 50 amps when operating. Both of these options, if not already existing, are very expensive to run. It is not easy to switch from a Gas Heater to a Heat Pump and vice versa. In a new pool, it is easy enough to install either.

 

Gas heaters and heat pumps are two standard methods of heating a home or a pool. They operate using different principles and have distinct advantages and disadvantages. Here are some key points to consider when comparing the two:

 

Gas Heater:

Operational Principle:

Fuel Source: Gas heaters burn natural gas or propane to generate heat.

Heat Generation: They produce heat through combustion, which is then transferred to the water or air.

Efficiency:

Gas heaters tend to be very efficient in quickly raising the temperature of water or air, making them suitable for pools and homes in colder climates.

Initial Cost:

Gas heaters usually have a lower upfront cost compared to heat pumps.

Climate Considerations:

They work well in all climates, including frigid environments, where they can maintain consistent heat output.

Rapid Heating:

Gas heaters can quickly raise the temperature, making them ideal for on-demand heating.

Operating Costs:

While the initial cost may be lower, the ongoing operational costs can be higher due to the cost of natural gas or propane.

Environmental Impact:

Burning natural gas or propane emits greenhouse gases, contributing to environmental concerns.

 

Heat Pump:

Operational Principle:

Heat Transfer: Heat pumps use electricity to transfer heat from the outside air or ground to warm the water or air.

Efficiency:

They are highly efficient for maintaining a consistent temperature but may struggle in freezing climates.

Initial Cost:

Heat pumps tend to have a higher upfront cost compared to gas heaters.

Climate Considerations:

They work best in moderate to warm climates with a stable source of heat to extract from the environment.

Operating Costs:

Heat pumps generally have lower ongoing operational costs compared to gas heaters, especially in areas with lower electricity rates.

Environmental Impact:

Heat pumps are considered more environmentally friendly as they do not directly emit greenhouse gases during operation. However, the electricity used to power them may be generated from fossil fuels.

Long-term Savings:

While the initial cost may be higher, the lower operating costs of a heat pump may lead to overall savings.

Considerations:

Climate: Your local weather will play a significant role in determining which option is more suitable. In colder climates, a gas heater might be a better choice, whereas in milder temperatures, a heat pump could be more efficient.

Upfront Costs vs. Long-term Savings: Consider your budget and long-term cost considerations. While a gas heater may have a lower initial cost, a heat pump may save you money in the long run due to lower operating costs.

Environmental Impact: If environmental concerns are important to you, a heat pump may be the most eco-friendly.

 

Ultimately, the best choice depends on your needs, budget, and climate conditions. It's advisable to consult with a professional or an HVAC specialist to evaluate your situation and provide personalized recommendations.

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Toxic Chemical Smells Around Your Pool

 Toxic smells are all part of the job. It's an unavoidable occupational hazard. However, you should be aware of some of the more dangerous smells so you don't fall into harm's way.

#1 on the list would be Trichlor tablets in a small body of water. This can happen when the lid of a Trichlor tablet bucket is not secure, and water gets into the bucket. Or this could happen when a Trichlor chlorinator is full of tablets, but they fail to dissolve, and you remove the lid. Since Thrichlor is made up of chlorine and acid (Cyanuric Acid), the smell is likened to Mustard Gas used in WWI and can be overwhelming and debilitating. It can cause your lungs to stop working and, depending on how much you have to breathe in, could become a medical emergency. 

 

There was one member of my group who suffered lung damage and, for months, could not take a deep breath after opening a Trichlor bucket that was full of tablets and water. Be extremely cautious when opening a Trichlor tablet bucket at one of your stops if the following is true:

 

You just took over the service account and did not deliver the bucket yourself.

It is the rainy season, and you are still determining if water has gotten into the bucket.

You come upon a bucket without a lid on it

The bucket looks very old and weather-worn

You suspect water might be in the bucket

 

For the In-line or Off-line Trichlor tablet feeder/chlorinator:

The chlorine reading is 0.0, but you know the chlorinator has tablets.

It is a new service account, and you have never opened the lid before

You open the top and see intact tablets after one week

After removing the cover, you smell a strong chemical odor

 

I caution that whenever you remove the Trichlor Feeder lid, you are not standing directly over it, nor do I suggest looking into it from now on. Always open it at arm's length and then wait a few seconds to make sure that there is no strong chemical smell. 

 

Other odors to be aware of are dead rodents, birds, or lizards. These can give off very little odor while in the pool skimmer or floating in the pool and sitting on the bottom. Once you pull them out, however, the smell can be overpowering. The same goes for earthworms at the bottom of a pool. Be prepared for a horrible smell. Although it is not toxic, it still can be overpowering.

 

A strange chemical smell from the pool water itself can be Chloramines. Chloramines are chemical compounds formed when chlorine reacts with organic matter like sweat, urine, and other bodily fluids. They can create a strong, unpleasant odor commonly associated with "pool smell." To reduce chloramines:

 

Maintain proper water chemistry: Regularly test and adjust the pH and chlorine levels in the pool.

Use shock treatment: Superchlorination (or "shocking" the pool) can help break down chloramines and restore water clarity.

Encourage proper hygiene: Encourage swimmers to shower before entering the pool and to avoid urinating in the water.

 

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Ways to Add Value to Your Pool Service

 Running a pool service business involves more than just maintaining pools. Providing excellent service and value to your customers is essential for success. Here are some ways to add value to your pool service business.

Professionalism and Reliability:

Be punctual and reliable. Show up when you say you will.

Maintain a professional appearance and demeanor.

Clearly communicate with clients about scheduling and any changes.

Quality Workmanship:

Ensure that your pool cleaning and maintenance services are thorough and effective.

Use high-quality cleaning equipment and chemicals.

Education and Training:

Stay updated on the latest pool maintenance techniques, equipment, and chemicals.

Provide educational resources for your customers on how to maintain their pools between service visits.

Customer Service:

Be responsive to inquiries and concerns.

Listen to your customers and address their specific needs and preferences.

Customized Service Plans:

Offer personalized service plans tailored to each customer's pool size, usage, and specific requirements.

Technology Integration:

Utilize pool management software to schedule appointments, track customer preferences, and manage inventory.

Consider offering automated reminders for service appointments.

Value-Added Services:

Offer additional services such as pool equipment repair, installation, or even landscaping around the pool area.

Regular Maintenance Packages:

Provide packages that include routine cleaning, chemical balancing, and equipment inspections.

Environmental Considerations:

Offer eco-friendly pool maintenance options or provide recommendations for environmentally conscious pool products.

Transparency and Honesty:

Provide clear pricing structures and be upfront about any additional costs.

If any issues arise, communicate them honestly and offer solutions.

Customer Feedback and Reviews:

Encourage satisfied customers to leave positive reviews and testimonials.

Use feedback to improve your services and address any areas that may need attention.

Marketing and Branding:

Build a strong brand identity that reflects professionalism, reliability, and expertise.

Use digital marketing channels like a website, social media, and local advertising to promote your business.

Community Involvement:

Participate in local events, sponsor community activities, or offer pool-related workshops or seminars.

Continual Improvement:

Stay updated on industry trends and best practices through workshops, conferences, and professional associations.

Invest in ongoing training for yourself and your staff.

Safety Measures:

Emphasize pool safety practices and offer tips to your customers to ensure a safe pool environment.

By implementing these strategies, you can not only provide exceptional service but also differentiate your pool service business from competitors and build a loyal customer base. Remember, customer satisfaction and retention are key to long-term success in this industry.