Swimming Pool VS Pump Best Run Times

 My basic principle of setting the run time of a Variable Speed pump is to keep it simple. Yes, you can set up to 8 different speeds and run times in most pumps but why bother with that? I prefer to just set two different run times and call it a day.

I like just using a low and medium speed. A high-speed program is not necessary in most cases. What I mean by low is 1700 to 1800 RPM or if you are using percentages to set your speed that would be 50%. Going off of 3450 RPM being 100%, half of that would be around 1,700 RPM or 50% in the menu. Then I would set a medium speed of 2400 RPM to 2600 RPM or roughly 70% if you are setting it that way. You really are not saving anything if you set the speeds any higher. 

Basically, you can set your low speed by simply taking your current single-speed pump run time and doubling it on the low-speed mode. So if your pool ran for 8 hours per day at 3450 RPM you will need to set your low speed (1700 RPM) to run for 16 hours. This will give you that one full cycle at a low speed. Then you will set a medium speed and run that for a few hours each day – mainly to get the surfaced clean and to get any automatic cleaners moving in the pool. I would say 4-6 hours per day depending on your pool size. Of course, if you have a very large pool, 25,000 or larger you will be running your VS pump almost 24 hours a day if not 24 hours per day. 

Not to worry since the pump is designed to run 24/7 so if you have to run it longer for a larger pool it won’t damage the pump in any way. You may also need to increase the medium speed to circulate the water better in a larger pool. But for most average size pools you shouldn’t need to run your pump more than 14 to 18 hours per day.

One thing to keep in mind is that even if you need to run your pump longer your energy use will not be impacted negatively. For example, if you are running your pool for 10 hours a day at 1700 RPM you probably are using about 130 watts per hour. Compare that with a single speed 1.5 hp pump which uses about 1200 watts per hour. So that 10 hour period is about equal to one hour of run time from a single-speed pump. So it is a bit of an illusion really and running a VS pump for that long does not translate into more energy use. In fact, a VS pump should save you 80%-90% in energy cost. 

One thing to keep in mind is that if you notice any water quality issues like algae or cloudy water, you may need to increase your run time and or run speeds. It may be a lack of chlorine or a dirty filter but it could also be too short of a run time. It is not an exact science and the water quality or general look of the pool is a good indicator of your run time. Installing a flow meter is a smart move and this can give you a more exact run-time since a flow meter will give you more exact gallons per minute. I always suggest a flow meter for variable speed pumps to help fine-tune the scheduling and run speeds.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Pool Equipment Replacement After Damage from a Storm

 Because of the Deep Freeze suffered by those in Texas and the surrounding areas I thought I would put together some things to think about when replacing your pool equipment. No one can really budget for multiple pieces of equipment that have been damaged and forget about any type of manufacturer warranty if “Freezing” was the cause. I think you need to focus on just what is needed to get the pool up and running which is the pump and filter. 

Of course along with that are many small parts like check valves, diverter valves (Jandy Valves as everyone calls them), chlorinators, and salt cells. Anything in the plumbing that is leaking needs to be fixed or patched so that you can get the pool pump and filter running. If your pump was damaged or needs to be replaced, now would be a good time to consider moving to a variable speed pump.

The best way to save money on your utility bills is to replace your standard single-speed pump with a Variable Speed Pump or VS pump. This will significantly lower your electricity bill each month by dropping your total usage down. I will go over this in a separate article in more detail but if you can make the switch do it. Your single-speed pool pump is probably your home's number one energy consumer next to your Air Conditioner.

Here are some average lifespans of pool equipment so you can judge whether you want to replace it or buy new. 

Pool Motor:

This is the piece of equipment that you will be replacing most often if you have a standard single speed pump. If you have a Variable Speed pump the motor will last a very long time – 10 years plus. But for a standard single-speed pump, you will get 3-5 years out of it at best. Then you will need to replace it. The typical cost for having a new one installed is $400-$700 depending on your region and the pump HP rating. This will be the most common piece of equipment you will be replacing.

Pool Pump:

The pool pump is the wet end where the pump basket sits as well as the motor on the back. Typically they last several years before needing replacement but figure every 10-12 years or after 3-4 motor replacements. The parts do wear and age over time and it is a good idea to just change the whole thing out over time. Again, I suggest a VS pump if your single speed pump is due for a replacement. A good Variable Speed pump will run you $900-$1,500 installed.

Pool Filter:

The pool filter shell is usually made out of fiberglass and will last upwards of 10-15 years before you see cracks in the tank or fiberglass flaking. Some filters like the Sta-Rite System 3 filters will probably last 100 years – those shells are so thick and well made. If you have a smaller single cartridge filter figure about 8-10 years before you start to see cracks. Sand filter shells are very long-lasting also but for your typical DE or large Cartridge Filter the tanks do wear out over time.

The internal DE grids will last about 3-5 years and then you will need to replace all 8 grids. A single Cartridge for a smaller filter will last maybe 1 year and then need replacement. The larger 4 Cartridge filters will require Cartridge replacements every 3-4 years. DE Grids rn about $30 each and depending on the Cartridge you are looking at $30-$70 per cartridge. The System 3 is the exception with a cost of upwards of $400 for both Cartridges. A typical large filter installed will cost $1,000-$1,400 depending on the size, type and region of the country.

Pool Heater:

The pool heater is the most expensive piece of equipment and having a new one installed will run you $2,000-$3,000 depending on the BTU size and your region. You can keep your heater running with part replacements but figure 8-12 years you will need a new one installed. The plus side is that the newer heaters are more efficient and better built than your old ones and every year they make improvements. But they are pretty expensive to replace.

Salt System:

Your typical salt cell will last about 10,000 hours at 100% output. So if you run your pool all season at a 100% output figure to get 3-4 years out of the cell. The system itself is typically long-lasting but you probably want to upgrade the entire system every 8-10 years as newer and better ones become available. You can get a completely new system installed from $900-$1,400 and most salt cells will run you $400-$600. A saltwater system will cost you more to operate in the long run but there are great benefits from having one - mainly you will not need to worry about adding chlorine to your pool week to week.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Jacuzzi JMC16 Multicyclone: Eliminate 80% of the Dirt Before your Pool Filter

 The Jacuzzi JMC16 Multicyclone reduces pool filter cleaning by spinning out debris before it reaches your pool filter system. This is considered a pre-filter and it will complement any pool filtration system. Imagine 80% less dirt getting to your pool filter and that sums up the JMC16.

There are a few things to note about installing a Pre-filter. It does require some space above your pool pump and if you have a wall or the equipment is behind a structure be aware that it may stick up higher than your pool filter. That is just a note for aesthetics and does not affect the pool equipment in any other way. These are great for new construction because they can be added in easily but just be aware that you have to make sure your current equipment pad can accommodate the JMC16.

If you have a D.E. filter there is a second caution and that is that you will need to plumb in an additional bypass to the JMC16 unit so that when the time comes to add D.E. you can bypass the device since it will spin out any D.E. you will add into the skimmer. Not a deal-breaker but I would consider that if your D.E. filter is already older to just change it for a cartridge filter. That way you don’t need to deal with the D.E. powder any longer but of course, that is just a suggestion. If you have an existing D.E. filter carefully see if you have room for both the JMC16 and the bypass plumbing.

For those with sand and cartridge filters, the JMC16 pre-filtration system is a real game-changer! Imagine again 80% of the dirt that would enter the filter being essentially trapped before it ever enters the filter. This means that for a sand filter you will not be backwashing the pool nearly as often and for a cartridge filter you will do fewer filter cleanings since the cartridges will essentially stay clean longer. If you live in an area where dirt in your pool is an issue having one installed would be a smart idea. 

Another note of caution since it will trap just about everything down to 5 microns you will not be able to put any dry chemicals into the pool skimmer with the JMC16 attached. No baking soda, soda ash, bags of shock, granular Cyanuric Acid, and D.E. as mentioned above. Keep that in mind so that you add all of your dry chemicals directly to your pool. 

Here are some of the highlights of the product:

Spins out debris as tiny as 5 microns before it reaches your pool filter

Essential for suction side pool cleaners

No moving parts

Never negatively affects water flow - even when full of debris

Reduces filter cleaning

Extends all filtration maintenance cycles - at least 4 times longer

Simple installation - requires no additional equipment pad space

Installs directly to your existing pool pump

2-Year Warranty

To order: https://lesliespool.com/jacuzzi-jmc16-multicyclone/42290.html#description-btn-div/?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=spll&utm_campaign=spll

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Poolife Slow Release NST Cal Hypo Tablets

 Cal Hypo tablets have been around for a very long time. One of the drawbacks of Cal Hypo tablets is that after 1 day they would be fully dissolved. So there was no real way to use them in place of 3” Trichlor tablets to release chlorine slowly over the course of a week. But the Poolife NST Cal Hypo tablet is an exception to this and it is designed to slowly dissolve over the course of one week. So you can now use these NST tablets as a direct replacement for Tri-Chlor tablets.

One critical thing to note is that you never want to introduce any Cal-Hypo tablet in a Tri-chlor feeder or Tri-Chlor floater. Mixing these two chemicals together will cause an explosion. Because Cal Hypo has such a high pH (over 9) you can use them directly in a pool skimmer without any harmful effects on the pool equipment. Poolife actually has two types of NST tablets, one for skimmer use and one for feeder and skimmer use. 

To learn more about the product you can listen to this podcast as well:

https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7561768

If you are interested in purchasing the Poolife Cal Hypo Tablets and the Feeder at wholesale bulk pricing, please contact:

If you are interested in purchasing the Poolife Cal Hypo Tablets and the Feeder at wholesale bulk pricing, please contact:

Michael Villegas

Territory Manager | SiguraTM

5034 Oxford Drive | Cypress, CA | 90630

Cell: (860) 280-7310| michael.villegas@sigurawater.com

I am testing these tablets out myself and so far I really like the fact that they are lasting all week long. This would be a smart alternative to Tri-Chlor tablets since they do not contain any Cyanuric Acid. This means that they are unstabilized and better for your pool in the long run.

Here are the two different NST Cal Hypo Tablet products:

Poolife® NST® Tablets (for skimmer use)

NST® is an alternative to 3" tablets and does not contain cyanuric acid. Perfect for use in a skimmer, this product will destroy bacteria and organic contaminants without over-stabilizing your pool water or adding additional cyanuric acid to your water. Each long-lasting tablet will continuously sanitize your pool in the skimmer for up to one week! This product is an innovative, proprietary technology that provides a long-lasting, slow-dissolving chlorination sanitization level.

Useful Tips:

Use only in pools with a skimmer and skimmer basket. Skimmer basket must be free of all other water treatment products before adding this product.

Place the tablet(s) in the empty skimmer basket. Replace with a new tablet as needed.

For optimum product performance, swimmer comfort, and crystal clear water, always maintain pH from 7.2 - 7.6, total alkalinity from 60-120 ppm, calcium hardness above 200 ppm, and free available chlorine residual between 1-4 ppm.

Best used with poolife® Algae Ban II algaecide and poolife® Quick Swim Oxidizer. 

Compatible with chlorine, salt chlorine generators, ozone, and mineral systems.

AVAILABLE SIZES: 4 lbs. / 10 lbs. / 20.6 lbs. / 44 lbs.

Poolife® NST® Feeder Tablets

These slow-dissolve cal hypo tablets were specifically formulated for use in the poolife® NST® Tablet Feeder. They contain a stain and scale inhibitor and are packaged in modular pails for easy identification on the shelf. Just like the NST® skimmer-fed tablets, these will destroy bacteria and organic contaminants without over-stabilizing the pool or adding additional cyanuric acid.

Useful Tips:

NST® Feeder is for residential pools only up to 50,000 gallons

Follow poolife® NST® Feeder operating manual for specific tablet use

Do not mix these tablets with any other chlorine sanitizer product

Ask your professional poolife® Dealer about the NST® Tablets Feeder specifically for use with these tablets

Available Sizes:14.9 lbs./ 24.9 lbs. / 49.4 lbs.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Swimming Pool is Frozen - Steps To Take

Basically, if you had set your pool to run 24/7 and the power did not go off you are fine - even if the pool surface was frozen. But if the power goes off for any length of time it could spell total disaster for your pool equipment and plumbing. 

Your local pool store is here to help. If you need your equipment inspected you can reach your local Leslie's pool store here:

https://lesliespool.com/stores

To learn more about Orenda Technologies:

https://www.orendatech.com/

If you have a deep freeze and the power goes off here are some of the side effects:

Damage to underground plumbing

Damage to equipment O-rings

Filter damage

Pump damage

Heater damage

Other equipment damage

Skimmer cracking

Equipment unable to turn back on

Equipment turning back on when power is restored and becoming damaged

Before turning the pool back on check to make sure the return line is not obstructed by ice or that any check valves in front of the pump and after the filter are not frozen in the closed position.

This can cause the filter tank to explode as backpressure builds inside of the filter. 

If the water got below the skimmer line - the actual plastic pool skimmer may have been cracked - as the plastic contracted and expands. Make sure the water does not get below the pool skimmer in freezing weather.

The pump may try to turn on with frozen pipes and if it is starved for water it can burn out. So if you have a power failure turning off the breakers to the pool equipment would be wise. You don't want the pump to come on unless you are sure that it has water going to it and that the filter is operating correctly. The last thing you want is for the pump motor to burn out and or the filter tank exploding.

Trying to crack the ice on the surface can cause more damage than good. Let it thaw naturally. The ice won't damage the pool tiles. Unless the water is frozen for weeks on end, I would not crack the ice up on top. You could actually damage the pool walls and you may end up breaking some tiles yourself. 

If the filter has been frozen the fiberglass may be compromised. Replacing your filter or pump that has been frozen may be a safe option for you - to prevent future issues. This is the one piece of equipment that I would automatically replace - especially if it is old already. You can't take any chances with your pool filter. It can be very dangerous if the lid were to crack or explode at a later time.

Unfortunately, there will certainly be a run on pool equipment. So the sooner you can jump on new equipment the better.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Tips on Becoming a Pool Service Pro

 Everyone has to start somewhere. In the pool industry, it can sometimes be a long haul to reach your goals. And there is the added fact that we are in customer service whether you see it that way or not. One aspect is the pool service and the other is customer relations. I sat down with 6 of my group members and we talked about their successes and failures.

Listen here:https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7484074

The members of the panel are:

Karl in Sacramento and owner of Pool Ninja Pool & Spa Service

Dean in Chandler AZ of Big Family Pools

Lance in Tucson AZ of Southwest Pool Service

Brennen in San Diego CA of Blue River Pool & Spa

Chris in Tampa FL of Pool Guardians

John in Coachella Valley of J&J Flawless Pools

Each member has a unique background and also services a different area so the challenges although similar do differ. All are excellent examples of successful pool service pros. 

Here are some qualities that I think you need to be successful in the industry:

The first is you need to be a hard worker. This job is not for everyone. There is weather to deal with, wind, rain, heat, humidity, snow. You are doing physical labor all day long. I did a calorie count test and input the amount of weight I lifted all day and added in a rowing machine which is close to skimming the pool all day and found I burned over 2000 calories per day. It can be rigorous. So if you don't like hard work or working in 100-degree weather, this job might not be for you.

People skills are essential because you are running a service business and are providing a specific “work” in return for payment. You are not selling a product, the product is you and the service you provide. So you will make mistakes and customers will get mad and you will need to develop good people skills.

I take the trash cans in for some customers, drop off the newspaper in the driveway at their front porch, watch their house and feed their dogs when they are on vacation. Customers trust me so much that they will leave their house unlocked so I can enter and reprogram their automated system when they are at work. There are even customers that wait for me each week so we can chat. Every Christmas I give them a Christmas card and a gift. So remember you are providing a service and not just doing a job.

Good solid business skills are essential. You are in business to make money and you are not just out there “spinning your wheels.” So you need to learn how to draw up a business plan which includes charging enough per pool so that you actually turn a profit. Prices for service vary from region to region so it is up to you to set the best price for your area. It is not smart business practice to undercut your competition because they are probably charging what is needed to turn a profit and if you charge less... instead offer better service for the same price.

You need to be an honest person. Being a person of Integrity takes a lot of effort. I was never taught as a youngster the value of being honest, so I had to learn it as an adult. If you lie to your customers and they find out, your reputation will be damaged. And in the service business, your reputation is everything. I was going to put a pool light in for a customer and discovered that the breaker was simply off. I could have charged the $180 and they would not be the wiser. But I sent them a text message informing them of the good news. I've charged up a D.E. Filter and left the backwash valve open, resulting in 5 lbs of D.E. going back into the pool when I corrected the mistake. I could have told the customer there was a torn grid, instead, I told them of my mistake. It took two weeks to get rid of all the D.E, but they respected me for being honest even though their pool was a mess. Honesty is the best policy.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Jacuzzi VS Pump Line-Up Overview VSP270, VSP185, VSP165

 Jacuzzi has a new line-up of Variable speed pumps and they are now available at your local Leslie’s Pool Supply. These VS pumps have been designed with the new Department of Energy (DOE) regulations in mind and all of them meet the new standards. They also feature a lot of other upgrades and there are currently 3 models to choose from. There are the new Jacuzzi JVS Series pumps:

JVS270 is a 2.7 THP VS pump with a DOE rating of 12.9 WEF

JVS185 is a 1.85 THP VS pump with a DOE rating of 10.1 WEF

JVS165 is a 1.65 THP VS pump with a DOE rating of 10.7 WEF

All of these pumps are dual voltage which means they will work with either 115 volts or 230 volts. So if you have an older pool that is wired on a 110 v breaker, you can use any of these three pumps as the voltage is automatically modulated. I would suggest the JVS165 or the JVS185 to utilize the total hp rating of these pumps. The JVS270 will be throttled down to about 1.5 hp when connected at a 110 v breaker. 

All three pumps are also automated ready so all you need to do is connect the Comm wires to your particular automated system. They come factory set to connect directly with Hayward Automation. For the others, you may need an adapter sold separately. But the simple fact that you can connect these pumps to your existing automation is a real game-changer. 

They are also backed by a 3-year warranty and a 4-year warranty for the JVS270 so rest assured you are getting a quality product. 

The pool pump can be the highest energy hog in your house, passing your Air Conditioner and Refrigerator just by the sheer amount of hours it runs each day. If you have a 1 ½ or 2 HP pump installed and you run it 8 hours per day, not to get into complicated conversions of kWh (Kilowatt Hours) and how you are charged each month by your Electric Company, just imagine it as having on Twenty 100 watt light bulbs every hour it is running. That is a lot of electricity each day and if your bill is tiered by usage, meaning the more you use the more you are charged, your bill can get very high very quickly. On average a pool pump will be about 40% of your total electricity bill each month.

So the best way to save money is to cut into your monthly electricity bill and that is exactly what a VS pump does. Simply put, your standard pump runs at 3450 RPM (Rotations Per Minute) which is about 1800-2000 watts. A VS Pump can be set to different RPM and at every lower RPM the total wattage used is lowered. So just lowering the VS Pump down to 2100 RPM, it cuts the watts down to 685 watts. At 2100 RPM the water will appear to flow just as strong as a standard pump running at 3450 RPM. Cut it down even lower to 1200 RPM and you are down to 165 watts. So instead of having twenty 100 watt light bulbs running you only have a little over one light bulb running each hour. This is the reason your electric bill can be cut almost in half by simply installing a VS Pump.

So if you are thinking of switching to a VS pump to save on your energy cost the Jacuzzi line-up would be a great choice.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Why is pH Important in Your Swimming Pool?

Swimming pool pH is often a test factor that is misunderstood or not given the proper attention. We know it is one of the big 3 test factors alongside Chlorine and Alkalinity but why I the pH important to measure and keep in the range each week? I go over pH in-depth with chemistry expert Bob Lowry.

Bob Lowry has created over 100 chemicals used in today’s Pool & Spa Industry and has written over 20 books on pool & spa chemistry.  He has been in the industry for over 47 years and is the Lead Consultant at Lowry Consulting Group, leads the Pool Chemistry Training Institute, and has created the Certified Residential Pool & Spa Certification Program. Learn more at  https://pcti.online/

Here are some other recordings I did with Bob Lowry:

pH and Why it is So Important in Balancing a Pool With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry (this video):

https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361140

Raising and Lowering the pH in a Pool With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry: https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361284

The Different Chorine Types With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry: https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361323

Non-Chlorine Shock and Shocking a Pool with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361437

Saltwater Generators Pros and Cons with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361707

pH is the most important test factor for your swimming pool and if it gets out of balance there are many negative effects that you will encounter. The ideal pH is 7.5. Most experts agree that 7.4-7.6 is the range the pH should be maintained at in your swimming pool.

Low pH will cause: 

Corrosive Water 

Stains

Etched plaster

Eye & Skin Irritation

Cloudy Water

Increased Chlorine Activity

Destruction of Total alkalinity

Stretching of Vinyl Liners

Blistering of Fiberglass Pools

High pH will cause:

Scale Formation

Stains

Cloudy Water

Short Filter Cleaning Cycles

Eye & skin Irritation

Poor Effective Chlorine 

Testing for pH:

Testing once a week is ideal. For a new pool start-up testing daily for the first two weeks is recommended. But once a week will give you a good indication of how stable the pH is in the pool water. There are various ways of testing the pH; test Strips, basic test kits, and Taylor Kits that use reagents. Alternate testing can be done with the ColorQ Pro7 Photometer testing and Digital pH testers.  

Lowering high pH: 

If the pH starts to get high in your pool the only way to lower it by adding acid. Either a dry acid or liquid acid. Muriatic Acid of 31.45% is the most common acid used to lower the pool's high pH. Dry acid or Sodium Bisulfate is the dry form of acid that can be added to lower the pH. Some test kits like the Taylor K-2006 will have an Acid Demand Test. This is a reagent test that will tell you how much acid to add to your pool to lower the pH. A chart is included with pool gallons and how many pint or quarts to add depending on the test results. 

Raising low pH:

If your pH is low you can raise it up using a base. A base is the opposite of acid and it will raise the low pH up in your pool rapidly. The best base is Borax as it will raise the pH without raising the Total Alkalinity.  Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) works well also but it is mainly used for raising the Alkalinity and requires large amounts to raise the pH. Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) raises the pH well but it also raises the pool's Alkalinity up so use Soda Ash if Borax is not available in your area.

Bob Lowry has written extensive Tech Bulletins and here is an excerpt from one on pH for you.

Source:

https://poolchemistrytraininginstitute.com/adjusting-ph-and-alkalinity-in-swimming-pools/

“You would think that adding muriatic acid, dry acid, soda ash, or even bicarb for adjusting pH and alkalinity would be a simple calculation. This is reinforced by the fact that there are charts and tables listing the amount of acid, soda ash or bicarb needed to lower or raise pH and alkalinity. This leads you to believe that the amount of acid needed to change pH from 8.0 to 7.5 will be the same regardless of the alkalinity, CYA, borate, calcium hardness, salt, and water temperature. Not true. All of these water conditions have an effect on the amount of acid, soda ash, or bicarb needed to make the changes.

Hydrogen Ions Are the Key

With the help of Richard Falk, we have created a very accurate spreadsheet that takes into consideration all the sources of hydrogen ion (H+) change in pool and spa water. There are equilibrium shifts for CYA, borate, carbonate, ionic strength, calcium hardness, and temperature plus the starting pH and alkalinity. I hope to create an App that you can use on your cell phone but it may take some time for programming and user interface (how the information is displayed on the cell phone screen to be useful).”

The article goes into very detailed explanations of pH and it is worth reading the entire write up by Bob Lowry.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Clear Pool Filter Apron for those Messy Pool Filter!

Check out this custom made apron made specifically for the messy job of filter cleaning! It is hand made in Mexico and is water-resistant. Extra-wide sides keep your pants and legs clean, large pockets in the front are perfect for the Spring Barrel Nuts and other filter bolts. It unclips from the neck as well as the back for easy removal. From the makers of the Riptide Cover and Clear Pool Vacuum Bags. 

The Clear Pool Filter Apron is great! Get yours today: https://clearpoolproducts.com/?v=f24485ae434a

I have always worn an apron when I clean my pool filters because let’s face it, no matter how careful you are the job can be very messy. I first started with a regular cooking apron from Walmart. That didn’t go so well as it would become very dirty and stained and it didn’t offer any protection after it got saturated with gunk. I then moved to a waterproof butcher-type apron which was good except that the waist was a tie strap and it always would come undone – at the wrong moments. It also did not have a clip on the neck part so each time I put it on or took it off I would have to remove my hat, which was annoying.

The Clear Pool Filter Apron solves these two very annoying issues by having a clip on the back as well as a clip on the neck part. Now I know the apron will remain on and when I need to remove it, I simply unclip it. Easy. 

Although it is technically not waterproof it is very water resistant. To make the material flexible it is cut from one sheet of material. So, the apron is very comfortable to wear and you can easily bend with it on. The sides are extra long to prevent any dirt from getting on your pants or legs. Overall the fit and style are perfect, and it is perfect for filter cleaning. The 2 large pockets in front can hold your filter bolts, lube, and other essentials. 

If you do a lot of filter cleanings you need this apron. The worst part of filter cleaning is how messy the job is. If you are like me and stagger your cleanings in between regular pool cleaning, there is nothing worse than getting splattered with filter gunk and showing up at your next stop looking like, well, someone who was cleaning a pool filter. To avoid this bad look wearing this apron will keep you dry and clean all filter cleaning season.

For the Multi-Tork Socket filter cleaning tool you can learn more here:

https://www.multi-tork.com/

This is an essential filter cleaning tool that will speed up your day and make removing and putting on filter clamps a breeze. 

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

PoolRx Sizing and Cautions

 PoolRx is an effective way to enhance the chlorine in your customer’s pools but there are some things you need to know before you drop one in the skimmer or pump basket. It is of course not a magic bullet so using it in a pool that is more balanced will get the best results.

PoolRx is a simple way to keep your pool algae free all season long. It is also effective in cleaning a green pool and a side benefit of the product is that you will use less chlorine in the pool all season long.  

PoolRx is a Mineral Technology that does two very simple things when used in your pool or spa; it eliminates all algae and will allow you to use less chlorine during the pool season. The active ingredient is Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate (chelated).

What Chelated means is that the metals in the PoolRx have been bonded to form two coordinated bonds similar to what Metal Sequestering Agents do. This means that the Metal Ions will remain in the PoolRx unit with no metal ions being introduced into the pool or spa water. PoolRx is Chelated so the metal ions stay within the PoolRx unit itself.

Make sure that you choose the right size PoolRX unit so that the treatment will be effective. You can place it either in your skimmer or pump basket. When you first insert the unit run your pool for 3-4 hours. Then run it the normal cycle to get at least one full cycle of water from the pool, into the filter, and back into the pool again. The PoolRx unit should last 4-6 months.

It is important not to add the PoolRx Unit to a pool if the chlorine level is over 3.0 ppm especially if it will be used the same week you install the PoolRX in the pump or skimmer. This is particularly a caution for blonde hair swimmers as the high chlorine will react with the copper in the PoolRx unit and cause the hair to get a green tint. This happens only when you first put a poolRx in and the chlorine is higher than 3.0 ppm. To avoid this never put a PoolRX unit in the weekend of pool use and make sure the chlorine level is below 3.0 ppm

YOu should also check to see if there is existing copper in the pool water. The copper level needs to be at zero ppm. If there is any copper in the water the PoolRx unit should not be introduced. First, use a Culator 4.0 and a metal sequestering agent for 30 days. Then you can safely introduce the PoolRx in the pool once the copper level is at zero.

PoolRx is ideal for a saltwater pool also. It will extend the life of your salt cell as you run the system at a lower output while PoolRx is present in the pool, typically 50% less output. PoolRx minerals also include a de-scaler that will prevent scale from attaching to the salt cell meaning less cleaning of the cell is needed. Also since it is generating less, the pH won't rise as high requiring less acid to be added to the pool. 

You can also use PoolRx to clear up a green pool. Just remember that a lot of the minerals will be used up in clearing up the pool so a Booster Pack will be needed.

For step by step instructions in clearing up a green pool:  http://poolrx.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/PoolRX-Green-to-CleanWEB.pdf

If you are a homeowner purchasing PoolRx for your pool will save you money on all of your chemicals including chlorine (liquid or tablets), clarifiers, Phosphate Removers, and Shock. The price of the PoolRx unit will pay for itself over the course of the season and as a bonus, your water will remain algae-free. So the $60-$90 investment is well worth it and to get your money's worth to add the PoolRx right at the beginning of the season.

For the Pool Service Professional PoolRx is something that you would add on and charge your customers for. Customers differ and some may want a detailed explanation of what PoolRx does and is while others will not mind at all. To help in this PoolRx has a section on their website dedicated to Pool Service Professionals. You must register first and then you will have access to documentation and form letters that you can send to your customers.

If you are a Pool Service Professional and need the form letters to help sell PoolRx to your customers go to their website and register your business or use the password below.

Password: Profits

Login:  http://poolrx.com/commercial-section/

PoolRx is a great way to keep your pool and customer's pools algae free all season long.  It is easy to use and comes in different sizes for all your pool care needs.

Related Videos:

PoolRx Overview and Use Video: Eliminates and Prevents all Algae: https://youtu.be/vYodIg3hu8g

PoolRx will Solve: Algae Every Week, Constant Low Chlorine Levels, High Phosphates: https://youtu.be/LA7HZ_nIQcA

Green Pool Clean Up a Step by Step Video Guide: Using PoolRx: https://youtu.be/4OWA3T2keVk

PoolRx Spa Unit for Crystal Clear Water, Algae-Free Water, and Use Less Chlorine Each Week!: https://youtu.be/FCOBOPwcEC0

Using PoolRx to Start the Season and to Clear up a Green Pool: https://youtu.be/3HVscopj0bk

PoolRx Explained, an Interview with Fred Schweer of PoolRx: https://youtu.be/lv9CTO4j6W4

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.