Swimming Pool Tips and Reviews

Black algae has a reputation that matches its look: stubborn, slow to die, and quick to return when ignored. Despite the name, it isn’t a true algae but a cyanobacteria wrapped in a tough biofilm that shrugs off normal chlorine levels. That shield is why you can hold 5 ppm free chlorine and still see the same dark, coin‑sized spots stare back from plaster or Pebble Tec. The organism wedges into tiny pits and micro‑cracks, anchoring itself deep enough that a casual brush only takes off the “head” and leaves the root behind. If your pool surface is aging, etched, or cracked, expect more colonization and more frustration. Success starts with understanding the biology, then matching it with treatments that expose the cells and keep pressure on them for long enough to make a real dent. The first critical move is mechanical: break the biofilm. A small 5‑inch stainless steel brush gives better leverage than a wide one, letting you attack each spot with force. On fiberglass, avoid stainless an...

DE filters earn praise for ultra-fine filtration, but they test the patience of even seasoned pool pros. This episode unpacks the real-world path from frustration to control, starting with the physics behind diatomaceous earth and why it catches debris down to about 3 microns. We set that against cartridge and sand performance to show where DE truly shines and where it drags a route down. Beyond theory, we examine the mess: caked powder in planters, residue on decks, and the constant risk of blowback when fresh DE finds a weak seal. The goal is not to scare anyone off DE, but to give you a clear, repeatable way to service these filters faster, cleaner, and with fewer callbacks. We map the market’s main DE designs so you know exactly what you are opening before the band clamp comes off. Quad-style DE uses thick cartridge-like elements, while the classic vertical grid assembly dominates most backyards, with brands like Pentair, Hayward, and Jandy following the same circular layout. Older...

Dust is the silent profit killer in pool service. In desert and monsoon regions, a single wind event can fill a pool with fine silt that clogs pumps, drives up filter cleanings, and burns hours you can’t bill. The fastest way to get ahead is to decouple cleanup from the customer’s equipment. That means using tools that generate their own suction, filter independently, or discharge to waste without stressing the pad. This guide breaks down three solutions the pros rely on: the Advantage Portivac 2.0, the Bottom Feeder or Shrimp with a cartridge filter assembly, and the Vac Daddy with a vacuum-to-waste adapter. Each shines in different conditions, and choosing well can cut visit time, reduce callbacks, and protect margins across a dusty season. The Advantage Portivac 2.0 is essentially a portable equipment pad on wheels: a 1.5 HP pump paired with a 150 sq ft cartridge that lets you vacuum either to waste or back into the pool. The big wins are strong, consistent suction and a massive dir...

 Pool water looks simple on the surface, but what happens to your plaster, copper heat exchangers, and salt cells depends on one quiet referee: the Langelier Saturation Index. The LSI measures whether water will dissolve calcium from surfaces or deposit it as scale. Think of it as a balance beam where calcium hardness and temperature set the stage, and pH tips the beam one way or the other. When the index goes negative, water grows hungry and corrosive; go too positive and it snows calcium on tile, returns, and heaters. Many indexes exist, but LSI remains the pool industry’s common language because it translates real-world results—etched plaster, crunchy scale, rusted internals—into one actionable number. The bedrock of the LSI is calcium hardness. Set this wrong and every other move becomes guesswork. For plaster pools, 350 ppm is a reliable target; fiberglass and vinyl can ride leaner near 250 ppm, but everyone needs at least 150 ppm to keep water from pulling calcium from surfac...

Pool pH control sits at the heart of clear, comfortable, and protected water. pH is a scale from 0 to 14, with 7.0 neutral and 7.4 to 7.6 ideal for most pools. Drift too low and bathers feel itchy eyes and skin while metals and heater parts corrode. Drift too high and chlorine weakens, scale forms, and water clouds. The fix is not guesswork; it’s understanding buffers and cause-and-effect. Alkalinity, cyanuric acid, and borates all resist pH swings in different ways, and choosing the right chemical at the right time saves money, time, and surfaces. Total alkalinity is the primary pH buffer. High alkalinity blunts the impact of acid, making pH hard to lower; low alkalinity removes that cushion and lets pH plummet when you add acid. In plaster pools with chronic high pH, running TA around 70 to 80 helps acid work efficiently. In vinyl or fiberglass pools that drift low, keeping TA higher slows dangerous drops. This interplay explains why a single quart of muriatic acid can crash pH in a ...

Clear, stable pool water is not a mystery; it is chemistry applied with purpose. We walk through the seven parameters that truly control balance: pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, temperature, total dissolved solids, cyanuric acid, and the chlorine you measure to protect swimmers. Industry “ideal ranges” help, but they often leave a wide gap that causes confusion in day-to-day care. That is why we focus on target values inspired by Bob Lowry’s approach, then validate the interplay with the Langelier Saturation Index using tools like the Arenda app. When you aim at specific targets instead of broad ranges, you correct faster, stabilize sooner, and stop chasing your tail after every heatwave or rainstorm. Start with pH because it drives comfort, sanitization efficacy, and LSI. A steady 7.5 is practical and lands right where chlorine is effective without pushing the water toward corrosion or scale. Pair that with total alkalinity around 90 ppm to buffer pH without forcing it upward ...