Monday, November 29, 2021

My Prediction for the 2022 Swimming Pool Season

How will the 2022 season look? In a word ugly. When making a prediction, any prediction we look at obvious indicators like past performance. How will the Yankees do in 2022? Probably just as good or better than in 2021. If we make a similar prediction about the 2022 season based on 2021 I think some of the same problems will persist.

Chapter marks:
00:00 What to expect in this video
00:58 Trichlor Tablets
04:20 Higher wages equal higher prices
07:44 More shortages
11:40 strategies for 2022
14:24 Salt water generator
16:33 Add enhancers
19:48 Keep your Free Chlorine Level higher

If you think the shortages will magically go away I have some swampland, I mean marshland in Florida I would like to sell you. The BioLab factory is still being rebuilt and it looks like any Trichlor produced out of there won’t be available until the 2023 season. In case you didn’t know that factory burned down in 2020 and it is the largest producer of Trichlor, some 2 million pounds each year. So don’t expect tablets to reappear in any quantity for 2022. This may lead to other chlorine shortages as everyone moves from 3” tablets to liquid chlorine and Cal-Hypo. Stay tuned on that.

A shortage no one is really covering yet but is on the radar of pool builders is the shortage of PVC plumbing. Namely, the resin used to make the plastic. This shortage has allowed for suppliers to cancel all orders of PVC pipes and I have heard this may also affect the availability of the plastic buckets that most chemicals come in for the pool industry.  Stay tuned on that one as well.

There was a serious equipment shortage in 2021 in part because of the Deep Freeze in Texas. It appears that this winter will be equally cold and more Deep Freezes may take place. With that in mind, you would think the equipment manufacturers would be churning out pumps and filters and heaters like crazy. But all of them are having component problems as well. Try to find a Polaris booster pump housing or a Wisperflo lid and you get the idea. So you can’t make more equipment with circuit boards and parts and you certainly can’t get things from China quickly now. So the equipment shortage may continue into 2022.

Inflation is something we are just not used to. We pay the same price for everything year in and year out. So seeing prices double for 3” tablets was a bit of a shock. And seeing all of the other chemical prices rise by 10% or more was also a bit unexpected. With the higher fuel prices and higher labor prices expect inflation to continue to be a factor in 2022. 

The only good thing about the upcoming 2022 season is that we know what to expect and we should not be taken off guard like in 2021. This will help us better prepare for the shortages and to get things in place ahead of time. So maybe less scrambling around looking for chlorine and equipment and also less sticker shock as we are now familiar with the higher prices in the industry. 

Who knows, I could be wrong and there may be a ton of chlorine, 20 heaters sitting in your local supplier's warehouse and the prices for everything may be back to 2020 levels. More than likely not.

Friday, November 19, 2021

Bob Lowry a Legend of the Industry: All Podcast Episodes with Bob Lowry

Bob Lowry passed away on November 17th, 2021 and a true legend has left the pool and spa industry. He was the author of over 23 books but this has to be one of his most relevant and shortest books coming in at just 19 pages thick. But it is packed with so many essentials on residential pool chemistry that you will want a copy to carry in your service truck. Bob Lowry has been in the industry for over 47 years and is the Lead Consultant at Lowry Consulting Group, leads the Pool Chemistry Training Institute, and has created the Certified Residential Pool & Spa Certification Program. Learn more at

Here are all of the podcasts that I recorded with Bob Lowry:

A Tribute to Bob Lowry (October 1st 1946 to November 17th, 2021)

The Four Different Testing Methods and Which is Best with Bob Lowry:

Borates and Mineral Systems with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Will There Be a Chlorine Shortage in 2022? Bob Lowry Answers This and More:

Cold Water and Your Pool Care with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

What is Better? Residential Pools or Commercial Pools? With Bob Lowry?:

What Would Bob Lowry Do? Short Pump Run Time & You Shock a Pool and It Turns Neon Green:

What Would Bob Lowry Do? You Have 4” of Rain Forecast and Bidding an Airbnb Rental:

What Would Bob Lowry Do? A Pool with Constantly High pH and No Chlorine at the Supplier:

Common Chemical Myths with Bob Lowry Part 2 – Tri-Chlor is the Strongest Chlorine Type:

Common Chemical Myths with Bob Lowry Part 1 – Evaporation lowers CYA in a pool:

What If? Part 3 With Bob Lowry – You Smell “Chlorine” At the Hotel Pool and More!: What If?

What If? Part 2 with Bob Lowry – Cal Hypo Left a Black Stain in the Pool and More!:

What If? With Bob Lowry – Adjusted Alkalinity with CYA over 200 and More! Part 1:

Is Copper Safe to Use in a Pool? With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Low pH and How it Affects a Pool with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

How Nitrates and Phosphates Affect a Pool with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Problem Pool: Not Holding Chlorine or Constant Algae with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Why High Cyanuric Acid a Bad Thing with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Rookie Chemistry Mistakes and More with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Why is my pH always going up in my Pool? With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Tips on Pool Service at Short Term Rentals & Airbnb with Bob Lowry:

How Strong is One Chlorine Type Compared to Another? With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Different Chlorine Types and Which is the Best with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Pool Chemical Dosing Basics with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Pool Surface Type Care & Cautions with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Water Basics with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Pool Start Up Methods with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Color Bodies: Why Your Water Has That Odd Color to It with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

What is TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Signs a Swimming Pool Has a Leak with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Are Adding Borates an End All Cure-All? With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

All About Swimming Pool Algaecides and Ways to Prevent Algae with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry

All About Swimming Pool Algaecides and Ways to Prevent Algae with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Dogs in your Pool and Ways to Keep the Pool Balanced with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Residential vs Commercial Pool Service with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Best Pool Water Testing Methods with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Products That Can Zero Out Your Pool’s Chlorine Level with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Pros and Cons of UV and Ozone Systems with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Hot Tub Care with Insights from Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

What Exactly is a PPM? Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry Explains:

Switching from Tri-Chlor to Cal Hypo Tablets – Some Cautions with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

About “Pool Chemistry for Service Pros” book with the author Bob Lowry:

Proper Pool Filtration and Cloudy Pool Water with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Saltwater Generators Pros and Cons with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Non-Chlorine Shock and Shocking a Pool with Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

The Different Chorine Types With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

Raising and Lowering the pH in a Pool With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

pH and Why it is So Important in Balancing a Pool With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Borates, Are They for Real?” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Swimming Pool Metal Staining 101” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Preventing Algae in Your Pool” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Is Cyanuric Acid Testing Accurate?” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Is High CYA Really a Problem?” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:

“Why is Balancing Your Pool Important Anyway?” With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry:


 Links to some of Bob Lowry’s books:

 Pool Chemistry for Service Pros: For Residential Pools Only

Pool Chemistry for Residential Pools

Easy Pool Chemistry

Bob Lowry teaches Target Chemistry and here are his recommended target numbers. Not a range but a specific number to shoot for.

Sanitizer 3.0 ppm
After the alkalinity & pH are brought into range, the next adjustment is the sanitizer. Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the most common and least expensive of the available sanitizers. The acceptable range is 1.5 - 3 ppm, though 4 - 5 ppm is absolutely fine. A commercial spa should be maintained at much higher levels - 5 - 6 ppm. Bob Lowry has the Target at 3.0 ppm so you should always aim for that for your residential pool.

A residential pool should be maintained at 3.0 ppm. The higher levels ( 4 - 5 ppm) should be established, prior to a large party or heat spell. Try not to allow the levels to drop below 3 ppm, as this will prevent the need to shock or take other corrective action after the party.

There are a number of factors that contribute to the "balance of the water." The most important is the pH and the alkalinity. The alkalinity is the ability of the water to buffer the pH (or buffer chemicals that may affect the pH). The alkalinity is like an auto-pilot or cruise-control for the pH.

If the alkalinity is out of the acceptable range, then any small factor will cause a wild swing in the pH. This is called "pH bounce." Because of this, alkalinity is the first thing that should be brought into line when balancing the water.

An ideal range for the alkalinity is 100-120 ppm (though 80 - 140 ppm is acceptable).

pH 7.5
The pH of the water determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.

An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool. The most expensive metallic component is the copper heat exchanger within the pool heater.

Thursday, November 18, 2021

Monument Valley Tour Guide - Where to Stay and What to See

Video Chapter Marks:
00:00 What to expect in this video
00:15 Goulding’s Lodge
00:35 Red Rock Luxury Home
01:40 The View Hotel
01:55 Valley Rim Cabin 
02:37 17 Mile Scenic Loop
03:18 Monument Valley Safari tour
04:39 Horseback Riding in Monument Valley
05:24 Tear Drop Arch
05:45 Forrest Gump Point
05:55 Mexican Hat, Utah
06:12 Gooseneck State Park
06:42 Closing thoughts

Monument Valley, a red-sand desert region on the Arizona-Utah border, is known for the towering sandstone buttes of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The park, frequently a filming location for Western movies, is accessed by the looping, 17-mile Valley Drive. The famous, steeply sloped Mittens buttes can be viewed from the road or from overlooks such as John Ford’s Point. ― Google
Address: Indn Route 42, Oljato-Monument Valley, AZ 84536

Here is a list of hotels, tours, and other points of interest for you.

Goulding’s Lodge:
There is a nice restaurant in the hotel – I suggest you order the Navajo Taco!
Also, a Chevron gas station right outside the hotel is open until 9 pm.
A really nice market is right outside the hotel across from the gas station and they have groceries as well as sandwiches for day trips. 

This is a 3-bedroom house that you can get and is part of the Goulding’s Lodge. It is very private and if it is available I highly recommend it. 

The cabins are small but very private and a great way to experience Monument Valley. I highly recommend a cabin if available. 

17 Mile Scenic Loop:
To get into the park drive to the View Hotel. There will be a booth and depending on party size and vehicle you will need to pay for entry – for us, it was $20.00. With that entry pass, you can pull to the far end of the parking lot where the cabins are and a security guard will let your vehicle into the 17-mile loop. There are a few Outhouses about 2 miles in. I suggest using the View Hotel Gift shop bathrooms before entering.  At this time there is a 2-hour time limit for the scenic drive. The road ranges from smooth dirt to rocky type dirt roads and our rented Ford Bronco did just fine on all of the roads. A compact car may have some trouble in certain areas so an SUV does better in my opinion. No drones are allowed in Monument Valley.

Monument Valley Tours in order from the video:
Monument Valley Safari (ask for Tony as your guide)

Book on Tripadvisor:

Wild West Trail Rides (book in the View Hotel Parking Lot)

Book on Tripadvisor: 

Tear Drop Arch (book in the View Hotel parking lot)
Tinhorn Tour

Things outside of Monument Valley:
There is a small town with some services in Mexican Hat, Utah

Between November 1st and the last day of February of each year, drone use is permitted by permit only.  Permits cost $10 per day and forms may be obtained online or at the visitor center. 

Monday, November 15, 2021

The Hidden Danger of Tri-Chlor Tablets

 The caution and warning here is that 3” Tri-Chlor tablets can give off toxic gas if it is in a bucket and water gets in with the lid on or the tablets are in a chlorinator that has no water in it and partially dissolved tablets. When you take the lid off the bucket of tablets or off of the chlorinator the fumes can be overwhelming and can cause lung damage. So always make sure the tablet bucket remains completely dry and that your chlorinator is working properly. 

Chapter Marks:
00:00 What to Expect in this video
00:48 Raises CYA in your pool
03:37 Low pH causes stains & damage
07:32 Off-Line Chlorinator cautions
09:05 Toxic gas
11:34 Mixing other chemicals with Tri-Chlor
13:04 Granular Tri-Chlor
14:52 Toxic Dust & Tri-Chlor handling tips
19:50 Wrap-Up overview

Tri-Chlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, a very fine powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner (Cyanuric Acid). So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of Conditioner. If you overuse tablets your pool’s CYA level can go up rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 90% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3 so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid so if one falls into the pool it is likely to stain the surface by burning it.

Tri-Chlor granular is very powerful stuff. It is basically the Tri-Chlor Tablet grounded up in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use with extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is basically acid and if you let it pile up on the pool surface it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer and if you do use it for Black or Mustard algae make sure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. Not for use in Vinyl, Fiberglass, or color plaster pools.

The 3” Tri-Chlor tablets must be used and handled in a safe manner to avoid chemical burns and possible breathing issues. If a bucket of tablets were to get water in it, the vapors or gas from these tablets can be extremely overpowering. Make sure to only use a watertight bucket of tablets like these from In The Swim (the brand that appears in the video). Make sure you store the tablets in a safe and dry place and since it is an Oxidizer I don’t recommend storing it in your garage or inside your house.

When you go to put the tablet in an in-line or off-line chlorinator, be aware that any undissolved tablets in the chlorinator can also give off a strong smell as there is water in the chlorinator chamber. I always open the chlorinator with my head off to the side and not directly over it, you can also wear a mask as protection. The floater in your pool is relatively safe from fumes as it is in the open air and not a closed chamber like a chlorinator. Just use caution with the 3” Tri-Chlor tablets when you use them in a chlorinator attached to your pool equipment.

You also do not want to put a 3” Tri-Chlor tablet directly into your pool skimmer. Since the tablets contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid when the pool turns off all of that acid will be sitting in the skimmer and building up. When you turn the pool back on, a large amount of acid will travel into the pool equipment and then out the return lines. This acid can ruin the metal parts in your heater and also stain the pool plaster at the return lines. Use the tablets in only a chlorine floater in your pool or in a chlorinator attached to your equipment.

A very strong form of chlorine
Slow dissolving in tablet form so it releases chlorine all week long
Easy to use and affordable
Keeps a good residual chlorine level in your pool all week
Very long shelf life

Thursday, November 11, 2021

The Different swimming Pool Filter Types Explained

Each of the three filter types is vastly different in how they work but they all essentially do the same job. D.E. is always going to give you the best filtration with cartridge a close 2nd and sand a distant 3rd. But a sand filter makes up for that is how easy it is to maintain and operate whereas a D.E. filter can be a real pain. 

Chapter Marks:
00:00 What to Expect in this video
01:04 Identifying the Filter Type
08:05 Size Comparison Between the 3 Types
10:35 Microns & Filtration
14:00 What is Important in Choosing a Filter
18:33 Advantages of D.E & Sand Filters
20:44 Advantage of a Cartridge Filter
22:04 My Favorite Filter Type

I break it down like this to make it easy.

D.E. Filters
Best filtration down to 3-5 microns
Uses Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) or Perlite to coat the grids
Quad cartridge type filter and Perflex (Bump Filters) are available 
Backwashing in between cleanings is a plus
Cleaning them can be a real pain
Cities may fine you up to $10,000 for D.E. in the street

Cartridge Filters
Filter down to 10-20 microns
Easy to clean – simply take the lid off and hose them off
Bigger is better and the 4-cartridge types are my preferred version
Can’t backwash in between cleaning
Offer the largest filtration area in square feet. 
Easy to maintain

Sand Filters:
Filter down to 30-40 microns
Easy to use
Backwash when PSI goes up by 10 PSI from clean PSI
No need to take apart and clean
Sand can last for years and sometimes over a decade
Can have water quality issues due to inability to filter down to a finer micron
Preferred filter for Commercial application and dirt prone areas

Overall I think the filter size is a bigger factor in water quality than the filtration type. Here is a good example of this from my pool route. A customer had a 25,000-gallon pool with a 36 sq ft D.E. filter on it. We upgraded his D.E. filter with a 420 sq. ft. cartridge filter. The flow had increased so dramatically that we had to divert half of the return flow to the attached spa so that the pool wasn’t like swimming in the ocean! The flow increased dramatically and all the issues I had with the pool disappeared overnight. So upgrading to a larger filter can really move the needle if your pool is experiencing water quality issues.

So how would you get a good size comparison between the three filter types? I think you have to work off of a ballpark figure since all of them filter the water in a different way. Here is the best guess chart for you:

36 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to a200 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 150-200 lbs. Sand Filter
48 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to 320 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 250-300 lbs. Sand filter
60 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to 420 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 350-400 lbs. Sand Filter
100 sq. ft. Quad D.E. Filter is equal to a 520 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 450-500 lbs. Sand Filter

Since a D.E. Filter uses Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) the filtration area is very small but highly effective. In fact, D.E. Filters can filter down to 3-5 microns making it the best filtration as far as microns go. A Cartridge Filter can filter down to just 15-20 microns and a Sand Filter down to 30-40 microns. So if you are just comparing filters by how good they filter down to D.E. is the winner. If you are looking at the sheer filtration area then the Cartridge Filter is the clear winner. With filtration areas of over 500 sq. ft. nothing compares to it. But since it uses a cloth basically to filter, even though the surface area is greater it doesn’t filter as efficiently as a D.E. Filter.

For ease of use, a Sand Filter can’t be beaten. All you need to do when it gets dirty is backwash it and of course, change the sand every few years. But you don’t need to take it apart and clean it every few months, nor do you need to recharge it every time you backwash it. The sand that is in there stays in there and you couldn’t ask for an easier filter to maintain. If you are looking mainly for ease of use then a Sand Filter should be your first choice.

Each filter type has its good points and its drawbacks. There probably is no perfect choice but if you go with the largest filter for your pool based on the gallons of water, the better off you will be. The larger filter allows for a better flow rate, better overall filtration, and better water quality. Although the upfront cost may be more it will pay for itself over the years in time and fewer chemicals used to maintain your pool. Think about the time you will save with a larger filter in cleaning the filter and also the energy cost as you can run the pool less with a larger filter. And finally, with a larger filter, you will not struggle to keep the chemistry balanced and therefore will use less shock and algaecide over the years.  So a larger filter is a win-win across the board.

Monday, November 8, 2021

Jacuzzi Sand Filter Overview JSF26 300 lbs. Filter

 A sand filter is a great choice for ease of use and it is one filter type that is often overlooked when shopping for a new filter. When I ease of use I mean that a sand filter is very easy to maintain and service. No need to ever take the lid off and clean it and all you need to do is backwash it when the filter pressure starts to get high.

I should mention here that the Jacuzzi JSF26 is made by Waterway which is a local equipment manufacturer here in Southern California. This assures that you are getting a quality filter and because it is made here there is no shortage of inventory. If you are having trouble locating another manufacturer’s sand filter, the Jacuzzi JSF26 would be a great choice as a replacement.

This is also a 300 lbs sand filter so it is great for a small or medium pool and is comparable to a 48 sq ft DE filter or a 300 sq ft cartridge filter. It is hard to compare one type of filter to another because they are very different but for filtration and size of the pool, I would say that the comparison I noted is as accurate as you can get. The flow rates are all different but if you are looking to replace a filter of this size you will have similar water quality. 

Here is more about the JSF26:
The Jacuzzi Top Mount 26" Sand Filter withstands high flow rates without reducing filtration for keeping you the best and healthiest pool water quality!
Manufactured in the USA
Stainless Steel Oil Filled Gauge
Heavy Duty Commercial Grade Tank
7 position top mount multi-port w/collar clamp for easy installation
360-degree self-cleaning slotted laterals threaded for easy maintenance
1 1/2 " extra-large water & sand drain port complete with tools
3 Year EPP Warranty

The advanced technology developed for the JSF26 Professional-Grade Sand Filter with Top Mount Valve offers extraordinary reliability with low maintenance and longevity. This sand filter is designed to withstand high flow rates without reducing filtration to keep your water clean, clear and healthy.

The JSF26 26" filters particles as small as 30 microns, ensures performance in all weather conditions, and uses a high-strength fully injected molded take to provide you with durability and longevity. It also features an easy-to-open, non-corrosive multi-port clamp, large drain point that allows for fast sand changes and saves hours on labor, a self-sealing barrel union for quicker installation and easy service, and a lock ring that secures the multi-port valve and allows for easy alignment with pipework to save on installation time.

Thursday, November 4, 2021

Bob Lowry on Cold Pool Water Care

I sat down with Bob Lowry and we went over some of the things you will run into when dealing with a pool in the winter months when the water is cold.

You will notice that in really cold water the pool chemicals will stay very constant and you will not be adding much chlorine, acid, or base to the pool. Generally, in water temperature, less than 65 degrees the pool's salt system will also stop operating. At this point simply switch to liquid chlorine and use that as your primary sanitizer. Typically in colder water, one gallon of liquid chlorine will hold a good chlorine level for 2 to 3 weeks or more.

Chapter Marks:
00:00 Update on Bob’s Health
07:30 Atlas Gloves 
08:22 Chemical Usage
09:50 Closing Your Pool Or Not Closing
13:55 Salt Water Pools
15:38 Run Time
16:12 Freezing Water
17:55 CYA Level can Drop 
20:35 Grey Area in Closing a Pool

If you service your pool in the winter the water can be bone-chilling cold so wearing the proper gloves is essential. I like the Atlas 772 Nitrile Coated Gloves which as 25-inch-long and will protect your hands from the cold water while emptying the skimmer basket and cleaning the pool.

Coldwater gloves:

If you have an automated system or a stand-alone VS pump you may notice the pool turning on at odd hours in the night and at unscheduled times. These systems have a Freeze Mode or Freeze Protect Mode so when the air temperature gets below 37 degrees the pump will turn on. This is to prevent the pipes from freezing but in most areas where we do not get freezing temperatures this feature is more of an annoyance. You can’t disable the feature so to prevent the pool from running all the time I suggest switching the pool’s start schedule to the coldest point of the night, usually, Midnight to 8 am. That way the pump is set to run anyway at that time and won’t be running all night and then the regularly scheduled runtime

One thing that we must deal with in the Winter is the weather and the wind and rain can be an issue. The Santa Ana Winds will blow in my area from October through February and these winds can reach gusts up to 60 mph making a real mess of the pools. You need to be very proactive when it comes to leaves and dirt in your pool. The leaves from the wind can easily clog your skimmer and pump basket causing your pump to work very poorly. If left unchecked your pump can even burn out due to a lack of water flow. So be ready to scoop out the leaves and empty the skimmer and pump baskets.

Any dirt that gets in the pool from the wind or rain should be vacuumed out quickly to avoid any staining. If you leave dirt in the pool for long periods of time, metal in the soil could cause stains on the pool surface. I recommend getting a good automatic cleaner or being ready to manually vacuum your pool when needed. The bottom line is that even though it is the middle of Winter and no one is using the pool, you still need to clean it regularly. In fact, your pool may be dirtier in the Winter than in the Summer in most cases.

If your area gets excessive rain you may notice that the pool may overflow with water. In most cases, the pool water is safe and won’t do any damage if you have sufficient drains around the pool deck. If the water overflows and it looks like it will enter your house or do other types of property damage you will need to get a Sump Pump and have it ready to drain some of the water from the pool.

Getting through the winter can be tough with the winds and the rains and the freezing cold water. But Spring is around the corner and then Summer when owning a pool really pays off.