Monday, March 18, 2024

All Trichlor is Not Equal

Since the Bio-Lab factory fire in 2020 caused by Hurricane Laura caused Trichlor prices to spike 150% and stay there, you want to ensure you are getting your money's worth.




Store Brand Vs. Unbranded

Store Brand:
EPA Certified
Consistent in size and weight
Stock is rotated
99% Trichlor
Water sealed lid
 Child proof lid
Dissolves constantly
Chlorox tablets are good, but I wouldn't say I like the bucket – it is hard to open and has a poor seal from the elements.

Other Brands:
Not EPA certified
No way to know if it is 99% Trichlor
Inconsistent tablets and a lot of broken tabs
Inconsistent dissolving
By-products can clog 
Trichlor Feeders
Once the feeder is clogged, it can produce dangerous fumes

Blended Trichlor:
Adds copper to the water
Staining possible
Only 90% Trichlor
Not getting your money's worth

Cal Hypo Tabs:
Not compatible with Trichlor feeders or floater
It can cause an explosion if mixed

Not all trichlor tablets are the same, although they might appear to be very similar because they are based on the same active ingredient, trichloroisocyanuric acid (Trichlor). The differences among trichlor tablets can stem from several factors:
Concentration of Active Ingredient: Most trichlor tablets have a high concentration of available chlorine, usually around 90%, but there can be slight variations in the concentration and stability of the active ingredient depending on the manufacturing process. Some are 99% Trichlor by weight and others are not.

Additives: Some trichlor tablets may include additives such as algae preventatives, clarifiers, or stain and scale inhibitors. These additives are designed to provide additional benefits beyond just sanitizing the pool. Some of these additives can clog up your chlorine feeder and make it inoperable. 
Dissolution Rate: Manufacturers might formulate their tablets to dissolve at different rates to accommodate various needs. Slow-dissolving tablets are generally preferred for a steady release of chlorine, but there might be slight variations in how quickly they dissolve based on the tablet's density and binders used in the manufacturing process. Not all tablets dissolve equally. 
Quality and Purity: The quality and purity of the trichlor tablets can vary between brands. Higher-quality tablets might produce less residue and have fewer insoluble fillers, leading to less maintenance and potential issues with your pool's filtration system.
Choose carefully to get your money’s worth. 
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Monday, March 11, 2024

Common Saltwater Pool Problems

Many things can go right with a saltwater system; having all green lights on your system display is golden. But, like any electronic product, things can go wrong at times. 



Some of the most common issues are a dirty salt cell, not producing enough chlorine, and, of course, when the cell gets old, it stops functioning or generating chlorine. None of these are deal breakers, and each has an easy solution. 

One drawback is the constantly rising pH. It's partly due to the process itself and the chemical reaction and partly due to the turbulence of the salt cell. So, although you save on chlorine, you may spend more on muriatic acid to keep the pH in check.

Some maintenance is required, like cleaning the salt cell, ensuring the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool. Still, for the most part, it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.

Knowing some things that can go wrong before you purchase a system is an important aspect that should be part of your buying equation. 

I am honest about the true benefit of a saltwater system: it adds chlorine to the pool without you having to do anything. This means no more trips to the pool store for shock or liquid chlorine. It is a great time saver for sure. But for me, that is the only benefit.

With that said, a saltwater system is a preference. And if you can absorb the cost of the system and don't mind the extra overall cost of a salt pool, then it is the way to go. Who wants to add tablets and liquid chlorine or shock every week to their pool? You can set it and forget it with a Saltwater Generator connected to your pool equipment. Of course, some maintenance is required, like cleaning the salt cell, ensuring the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool. Still, for the most part, it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.

Upgrading is a personal choice you should make according to your overall pool care budget. Everything depends on how much you will spend, not worrying about adding chlorine to your pool each week. I have a Saltwater Pool, and I am so used to the convenience of it that I wouldn't be able to go back to a manual chlorine pool. Once you convert, you probably will not go back, either.


Wednesday, March 6, 2024

Some Extreme Swimming Pool Mistakes

 Besides the significant issues I mentioned in the podcast, some other things are not disastrous but still fall in the "big mistake" category.



Failure to add water
This is the #1 failure I see daily. Many pools do not have an in-deck Autofill system, so it is up to the pool owner to add water to the pool each week. Newer pools have a safety feature in the skimmer to prevent the pump from running dry, but older pools do not. If the water is left low for a short period, leaks will happen, and the pool motor can burn out. This is one of the easiest things to correct, check, and add water to the pool weekly. In the Summer, most regions lose one to two inches of water each from evaporation. The ideal pool water level is right before the skimmer opening. The pool will stay much cleaner with the correct water level, and you will avoid expensive repairs.

On the flip side is failing to turn the water off while filling the pool. This happens to almost every customer. Try setting your phone alarm or turning on your stove timer. I don't fill customer pools because of liability, but I will occasionally fill them if I am at a vacant property. I always set my truck keys on the fill valve so I don't leave the account with the water running.

Not Emptying the Skimmer or Pump Baskets:
Just as bad as not filling the pool is not cleaning the skimmer or pump baskets every week. The debris can clog up either basket and prevent the pool pump from priming. This will also cause the pool not to filter properly and the water quality to suffer. It is a straightforward thing to do, and you should check and empty both the pump and skimmer basket each week. Also, I suggest adding a large rock to the skimmer basket as, in many cases, they will float up after the pool turns off, spilling debris everywhere – the rock will keep it down in the skimmer.

One error I often see when the customer empties the pump basket is not filling the pump with water before putting the lid back on the pump. The pump will prime up much better with water in the pot area. Also, I have seen customers drop the pump lid O-Ring out onto the ground and put the lid back on without it. The pump will not prime without the O-ring on the pump lid. Make sure the O-Ring is on there and in good shape.

Failure to Turn the Pool on:
If you have a stand-alone VS pump, there is a dedicated on/off button, and many customers will turn the pool off when using it – with this button. But it will remain out all week if you don't hit the on/off button when you are done using the pool. So, if you use the pool in the afternoons, I suggest programming it to run in the early morning and turning it off by 3 pm to avoid this issue. I see this often on my pool route and have also left a pool off by mistake all week – oops.

Another similarity is when you use your attached spa and forget to turn the valves back to pool mode when finished. I can't tell you how many times I have gone into the backyard and seen a perfectly clear and sparkling spa and a cloudy or algae-filled pool. The spa was left running all week while the pool was off all week. So after using the spa, be sure to turn the valves back to pool mode to avoid leaving the pool off all week.

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Monday, March 4, 2024

Manual Vacumming VS Vacuum Systems

Manually vacuuming your swimming pool and spa with a manual vacuum head and pool hose sounds simple and easy to do. Attach the vacuum head and hose, and you are good. But it can be a little more complex than that. I will be going over some do’s and don’ts in this article for you so that you can avoid making some typical mistakes.


Vacuum System vs Manual or System Vacuuming
 
Pros:
System vacuuming picks up both dirt and small leaf debris
Affordable
Easy
Effect
Cart Systems
 
Drawbacks:
Time-consuming
Not suitable for large leaf debris
Everything goes into the filter unless you use a “waste” mode, but many filters don’t have a “Waste” mode.
 
Vacuum System Pros:
Fast and effective with large debris
It is not suitable for dirt under 75 microns. Although there are finer micron bags, they are not designed for complete vacuuming but for spot vacuuming.
Convenient and easy to use
Dirt and debris go into a debris bag
You can purchase with a service cart
Professional looking
 
Drawbacks:
Expensive
Heavy except the bottom Feeder
Not suitable for fine dirt
Requires maintenance and repairs
Can be stolen

Let me outline some of the most critical don’ts so you won’t damage your pool or equipment. When submerging the vacuum head and pool hose, ensure all the air is out. This can be achieved by pushing the hose into the water hand-over-hand. You want to connect the hose to the skimmer suction line without any air in the hose. Air can cause the pump to lose its prime, and if you let it run for several minutes without water in the pump basket area, also known as the wet end, this could cause air leaks to develop in the system. Air leaks then lead to water leaks and a loss of pool suction. Making sure there is no air in the pool hose when you connect the vacuum is essential. While vacuuming, try not to lift the vacuum head out of the water when moving around obstacles or getting around the vacuum hose. When you lift it out of the water, it will suck large amounts of air in, causing the pump to lose prime.

The next thing you never want to do is place the vacuum head directly over a main drain cover. The suction from the pump and the vacuum head attached to the top of the drain cover could cause it to get stuck on top of it. If you try to pull it off the drain cover, you could crack the plastic around the screwed-down area and inadvertently break the cover off. This will become a costly repair, so if you accidentally set the vacuum head on top of the main drain cover, try to avoid pulling it up and off. Instead, turn off the pump and move the vacuum head off the main drain.

Using a cheap hose and vacuum head can also contribute to vacuuming frustration. A cheap hose will cavitate due to the pump’s powerful suction, which will cause the pump to lose its prime. You will know this is happening when you see the walls of the pool hose twisting and collapsing in on themselves when they are attached to the pool skimmer. If this happens, I suggest upgrading to a professional pool hose like a Smooth Bor brand.

If your vacuum head is constantly getting stuck on the pool bottom, you are using an old or cheap vacuum head. A professional quality vacuum head is designed not to get stuck on the pool surface and is a worthwhile investment. The key to a successful experience is using professional-grade equipment.

Vacuum Systems

Riptide:
This is the Tesla of vacuum systems. Riptide is constantly innovating, and to prove that point, they scrapped their first version entirely and started over almost completely. They kept their vacuum head. The vacuum head comes with a 10-year warranty because it is that durable. 

The version you will get is as close to complete as it can get. The High Torque Motor (which uses rare earth magnets) makes it the most powerful vacuum on the market. The cord has a new protective external layer and comes in 40 ft or 60 ft lengths. The cart is now e-coated before powder-coating
The Transport Rack Is e-coated now, too- Electrostatic Coating- All of our powder-coated parts are now electrostatic coated (coating) and then powder coated over. This makes the finish of our components much more durable. Extremely high-quality integrated steering knuckle -Integrated Stainless Steel Steering Knuckle. This allows you to hook any pole directly up to the Riptide vacuum without any adaptors while maneuvering in the water is effortless. The SL model Riptides now includes a Diagnostic/Tool Kit with a battery load tester; the load tester is essential for quickly determining battery condition.

Hammer-Head:
The Hammer-Head has been around almost as long as the Power Vac. The Vac head is shaped differently but has the same power as the Power Vac. You can get the standard 21” vacuum head or the more giant 30” one. For most service techs, the 21” vacuum head will work fine. You can also get the cord in 40 ft or 60 ft length, and the cart is probably the least refined of the big three. It is well-balanced and functional. 

ALL STAINLESS HARDWARE
FEATURING THE PATENTED SMART SWITCH™ (The new HH1062 Smart Switch comes standard on all Hammer-Head pool cleaning units. SMART SWITCH™ features include a motor-saving overload sensor, two speeds, and an automatic shutoff when the motor is out of the water for over a minute).


Bottom Feeder:
Fast. Light. Powerful.
Finish vacuuming a pool faster and easier with The Bottom Feeder Professional-Grade Battery-Powered Swimming Pool Vacuum. This cordless portable pool vac is lightweight and easy to use, you can carry everything in one hand in only one trip from the truck to every pool on your route. With no hoses, long cords, or carts, connect the 1.5-hr. With a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, you are good to go. Weighing in at only 12 lbs., this compact, lightweight, battery-powered pool vacuum is the lightest commercial-duty swimming pool vacuum system available. 

The 18 lbs. thrust motor makes it effective at picking up leaves, twigs, small stones, coins, and finer debris. So, there is plenty of power.

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Monday, February 26, 2024

My Go To Swimming Pool Water Testing Method

Here is a rundown of the different testing methods for your pool and spa. Each method has their pros and cons and I find a variety of methods works best. 



The Reagent Test Kits use a drop test, and when the reagent solution is entered into the water sample, a color change occurs. Taylor is the leading manufacturer of these reagent test kits, and you can also purchase an essential Pool Master Kit at your local pool store. The reagents can test for important factors like Chlorine, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Bromine, Alkalinity, pH, Calcium Hardness, and CYA (Conditioner). These kits are easy to use and a great way to test your pool and spa water each week. The Taylor K-2005 and K-2006 are popular test kits.

The drawback of the reagent test kit is user error. You will get a false reading if you don't add the correct number of drops. If the reagents are expired, you will also get an inaccurate reading. Like test strips, you match colors to get your reading, so if you need to improve at distinguishing colors, you will have trouble reading the correct results. But these are minor drawbacks, and as you gain experience with the Reagent Test Kits, you will get better at reading the right results. Some popular test kits are the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006, which I use on my pool route.

Photometer Testers are gaining popularity, and they are the only test kit that will give you a spot-on reading of the test factors. The LaMotte Color Q 2X Pro7 & 2X Pro9 is a trendy photometer test kit, and the new Pool Lab 2.0 is also a great test kit. These kits operate when an electronic photometer reads the color spectrum of the reagent or tablet in the water sample. Since the photometer can read the exact color of the water sample, it can give you an accurate digital reading of the test factor. If you are doing a pH test, for example, it will give you the pH down to the exact level, like 7.5. This can't be done with test strips or the reagent test kits. These are great for Commercial accounts or homeowners struggling with color matching.

The drawback with the photometer testers is the price point. Since they are more advanced, the price point is typically 3-4 times that of a premium reagent test kit. However, a photometer tester is suitable if you look for the most accurate test results without guessing the actual reading.

One of the most advanced Photometer Testers is the LaMotte Spin Touch Mobile, which does 10 test factors in one minute! The price point is nearly $1,000, and each disk is $2.50. Still, it can do all of these tests in less than a minute and give you a digital readout of all of them: Free Chlorine (DPD) 0-15 ppm, Total Chlorine (DPD) 0-15 ppm, Bromine (DPD) 0-33 ppm, pH 6.3-8.6, Calcium Hardness 0-800 ppm, Total Alkalinity 0-250 ppm, Cyanuric Acid 5-150 ppm, Copper 0-3.0 ppm, Iron 0-3.0 ppm, Salt 0-6000 ppm, Phosphate 0-2000 ppb.

Digital Testers can also give you unavailable readings with test strips and reagent testers such as Salinity, TDS (Total Dissolved Solids), ORP, Temperature, pH, and other factors. These are great and accurate testers and can expand the different test factors you can do in your pool and spa.

Test strips are not only popular but very easy to use. Many different manufacturers make them, like AquaChek, Taylor, and LaMotte, to name a few, and you can find them just about everywhere, from your grocery store to hardware store and local pool store. You can also purchase them online, and many different types of strips are available for testing everything from chlorine and borate to copper in the water. The ease of use of test strips makes these great for beginners. Just dip them in the water sample and match the strip's color to the guide on the back of the bottle. The color matching is accurate and will give you a good range of the chemistry levels in your pool or spa.

The drawback of the test strips is that you will get an approximate color match only sometimes. So, it is open to user interpretation, sometimes giving you the wrong results. For instance, you may think the color indicates the Alkalinity is at 160 ppm, but it is at 120 ppm because you didn't match the color correctly. You are only getting a ballpark reading with a test strip and not a spot-on reading that you would get with a Photometer tester, which I will cover later.


Wednesday, February 21, 2024

Rain and More Rain! - Effects on Your Swimming Pool

 The number one call I get during heavy Rain is that the pool looks like it will overflow into the yard and house. In most cases, the worry is unfounded, as the drains around the pool should be able to handle the runoff. However, there are times when draining is needed, and it is a good idea to have it set up with the customer beforehand.



Teach the customer how to drain their pool to save a service trip. If there is a hose spigot on the equipment pad, usually above the pump, show them how to attach a garden hose to it and drain the pool. It is easy. Attach a garden hose, turn on the pool pump, and open the hose spigot. The pool will drain while the pump is running.

Plan B would be to have the customer purchase a small sump pump (submersible pump) and use that to drain the pool down when needed. They can place it on the first step in the pool, attach a garden hose to it, and plug it in. It is easy, and you do not need to go out and drain pools all day if you set things up beforehand with your customers.

Another common problem you will run into is mud getting into the pool. Making a pool a murky mess only takes a couple of pounds of dirt. In most cases, when a planter is right next to a pool and has a slope behind it, mud in the pool is unavoidable. It can take a few weeks to clear up a mud pool, so it is best to prevent it from happening in the 1st place. Have the customer get their landscaper to fix any planter or dirt areas. A good incentive is to remind your customers that dirt has a lot of iron and other metals in it, and this can lead to staining if a large amount of mud were to get into your pool. 

Another question I often get is when to go out in the Rain to service your pools. How much Rain is too much Rain? That is for you to decide, and a good rule is that if you can't even see the pool bottom, there is too much Rain, and it is useless even to go out. Typically, 1-2" of constant Rain is when I pull the plug. Rain of less than 1" is pretty easy to work in, so make the call based on common sense. 

If you expect Rain multiple times on your service day in two weeks, shuffle the service day to avoid a 3-week service gap. For example, if it is raining on a Thursday and you can't go out, but next week's heavy Rain is also predicted, skipping your Wednesday pools and moving the Thursday pools to Wednesday that week is lovely. And if it doesn't rain, you can always do your Wednesday pools that Thursday. 

Rain is a common issue, and there are ways to set up your pool route to deal with the effects of weeks and months of Rain.

Monday, February 19, 2024

The Bottom Feeder Vacuum System for 2024 - New Features!

 The Bottom Feeder has been around for several years, and it is safe to say that it has developed quite a fan following. It has had its share of production issues, but rest assured that the newest version is the best.




The new LiFePO4 batteries are a lithium battery type considered the safest lithium battery type available. They have a long cycle life, high power density, and a wide temperature range.

Safety: LiFePO4 batteries are considered one of the safest lithium-ion battery chemistries available. They have a stable chemical structure less prone to thermal runaway or combustion, making them a reliable choice for applications where safety is crucial.

Long Cycle Life: LiFePO4 batteries have an impressive cycle life, capable of enduring thousands of charge-discharge cycles without significant capacity loss. This makes them ideal for applications that require frequent cycling, such as electric vehicles and renewable energy storage systems.

With a 400-watt Power Inverter, you can quickly charge the bottom feeder while driving between stops. A 10-minute charge will give you seven minutes of battery life. You will want to use at least a 300-watt Power Inverter with the car charger adapter on end, and you can plug it into your car charger port (older cars' cigarette lighter port). 

If you prefer to charge it at home, it will take about 2 hours to charge the battery fully.

The compact size makes this ideal for those pools that need more than a quick skimming but have too much debris for a traditional manual vacuum with a hose and a vacuum head. It is also great if you do not need the standard Vacuum System with the cart. The Bottom Feeder weighs just 12 lbs. and is fully assembled, including the battery pack. 

Here is what the manufacturer says about the Bottom Feeder: "The Bottom Feeder " is a revolutionary pool cleaning system combining innovative technology and lightweight flexibility. Powered by a long-lasting rechargeable lithium-ion battery pack, The Bottom Feeder requires no hoses or lines – which saves you time and gives you the mobility and flexibility needed to vacuum pools in minutes. Designed by professionals for professionals, The Bottom Feeder is durable and practical and vacuums in as little as 4″ of water."

I like the portability of the Bottom Feeder. It is easy to carry back to my service accounts, and it takes less than 30 seconds to connect it to my pole and drop it into a pool. It is powered by an 18-pound thrust motor, which is less potent than a standard vacuum system but still very powerful. I only noticed a little power drop-off between the Bottom Feeder and my other Vacuum Systems. The Body is light and maneuverable, like using a standard manual vacuum head with the swivel on the handle. The great thing about it is that there are no hoses or cords, so using it couldn't be easier.

The Bottom Feeder would be ideal for a homeowner with large debris in their pool each week. The compact size makes this ideal for use and storage. If you have a pool route and only a handful of heavy debris accounts, investing in the bottom feeder would save you time without needing a full-size vacuum system and cart. Overall, Carrying back to your service accounts is a convenient vacuum.