Monday, August 19, 2019

eXact iDip Professional Test Kit


The eXact iDip® Professional Test Kit is one of the most underrated Photometer/Digital Test Kits on the market today. The concept is a bit complicated and I can see why most pool pros and homeowners pass on it. After using it and testing the kit I can say it is extremely easy to use and very accurate. So accurate that it is EPA approved for the Free and Total Chlorine Tests. The Professional Test Kit would be perfect for Commercial Pool use as well as Residential Pool use.



Let me try to take the mystery out of the eXact iDip Kits. It is a photometer that reads the color released on the pre-measured test strip. Other photometers use reagents or pills but the concept is the same. The photometer will read the light spectrum and give you a digital readout of the test factor you are doing at that moment. The eXact iDip is very accurate when done correctly.

It also links via Bluetooth with the downloadable app and you do all the testing from the app on your phone or device. The test results can be saved and also emailed to yourself or your customer. The one negative and the aspect that leads to confusion is that only the Chlorine, Alkalinity and pH test comes free included in the app. Additional test parameters will need to be purchased and downloaded in-app at $4.99 each or as a bundle (Pool Bundle) for $8.99. This is a onetime purchase so if you want to test for the CYA or Calcium Hardness you would need to purchase those test parameters for the app. There are over 40 test parameters available.

Once you purchase the test parameter for say, Copper, you would then need to order the Copper test strips.  Now the eXact iDip can test for Copper going forward as long as you have the test strips. Once the test parameter is purchased you have unlimited use of it. Should the test parameters all be free? I think that would help sell the product but it is the decision of the parent company Industrial Test Systems and not mine. You would purchase the test parameters and test strips that you need and truthfully you don’t need all 40 plus. Besides Copper, I would suggest Iron, Phosphates, and Nitrates give yourself a well-rounded tester.

The pH+ is a pretty nice digital water tester. It can do pH, Conductivity, TDS, Salinity and water temperature. If you purchase the optional ORP probe you can swap out the pH probe and also record the ORP. It is a very versatile and accurate digital tester and together with the eXact iDip it makes the Pro-Test Kit a real winner. The number of test factors that these two testers can do will take your water testing to a new level.

The coolest feature is that with the reading from the iDip and pH+ the app will give you the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) reading by extracting the results from the test factors recorded from your water sample. This is a great way to check to see if the water is corrosive or scale forming. This alone makes this test kit by far the most comprehensive one on the market today.

To order the Pro-Kit and save 15% use this promo code: SPLEARNIDIP

For the Starter Kit order here with Promo code to save 15%: https://sensafe.com/exact-idip-pool-Starter-kit/

Here is more about the eXact iDip from the manufacturer:

“The eXact iDip® Professional Test Kit is the latest generation test kit that combines two state of the art water quality test instruments. The first is the revolutionary Level 1 NSF/ANSI-50 Certified eXact iDip® Smart Photometer System which integrates patented 2–way wireless communication with any compatible iOS or Android smart device and has the potential to test over 40 water parameters. The second is the NEW eXact® pH+ Smart Meter system which capitalizes on electrochemistry technology combined with Bluetooth connectivity.
Pre-configured kit comes with exactly what is needed to start testing (excluding app software). Packed in a rugged and durable plastic case with secure fasteners and padded compartments. Compatible with iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch with the minimum iOS system version 9.0 and Android version 5.0 with Bluetooth® 4.0.

Details:
Standard navy blue plastic carrying case w/ Foam included
eXact iDip® 525 Photometer
eXact pH+ Smart Meter System
pH 4 & pH 7 buffer solution pouches
Cleaning brush
Acrylic Calibration Key
Instruction manual
25 tests of each
Total Alkalinity, pH, Free Chlorine (DPD-1), Combined/Total Chlorine (DPD-3), Calcium Hardness, Cyanuric Acid, Conductivity, TDS, Salinity, and Temperature
Free downloadable app with pre-installed tests: pH, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Total Alkalinity. Additional test parameters will need to be purchased and downloaded in-app at at $4.99 each or as a bundle (Pool Bundle) for $8.99”









Thursday, August 15, 2019

Swimming Pool Acid Wash Tips


Doing an Acid Wash for the first time can be challenging but there are some things you can do to make it go smoothly. The first thing you need to do is to assess the pool to see if an Acid Wash is even the proper thing to do. By this I mean, maybe the pool needs more than an Acid Wash and will need to be resurfaced.



If the plaster has cracks and chips in it already, an Acid Wash will make things worse. There will be more chipping and bigger chunks of plaster will start to come off once the pool is refilled. A Pebble Tec pool with pebbles coming off or cracks is a sign that an Acid Wash should not be done. This will make the Pebble Tec surface worse and not better.

You also want to be careful not to drain a pool down if the outside air temperature is above 90 degrees. This can also cause the plaster to chip, but not until you refill the pool. Sun exposure at that temperature will weaken the old plaster and the chipping will appear over time. So it would be optimal to schedule the Acid Wash offseason when the weather is mild.

The Acid Wash mix is the most important element of the Acid Wash. Here are the products that you need for a successful acid wash. You will need 31.45% Muriatic Acid mixed with water in a 2 to 1 water to acid mix. Bio-Dex Plaster White ‘n Brite to help thicken up the acid solution so that it runs smoothly down the walls of the pool and to reduce the acid fumes. Bio-Dex AquaDex 50 Stain-Off which helps to remove iron and other metal staining from the surface. If you use this Acid Wash mix you will have great results and the plaster or Pebble Tec will look as good as new!

You can prep the pool to remove some of the calcium build up on the tile with the Bio-Dex Protect-All-Supreme which will require you to raise the water level over the pool tile calcium line, pour in 1 or 2 gallons of the Protect-All-Supreme into the pool and then run the pool for 24-48 hours. In most cases this is probably not something that most customers will opt to do since almost all of the acid washes I have done were in pools that needed to be drained straight away. But it is a part of the treatment and something that you can do as the first step.

Here are the detailed instructions from Bio-Dex on how to do an Acid Wash the Bio-Dex way:

I modified their method because it calls for mixing everything in a 5-gallon bucket and the pouring it down the sides. But I have always done my acid washes using a Water Pot as I find this to be the easiest and most effective method. So in the video, I show you the Watering pot mixture also.

Acid Wash Tips:

Always wear protective gear as the fumes and acid are hazardous.

The The first thing you should know when you go to do an Acid Wash is that the results cannot be predicted. I can look at a pool now and pretty much predict the outcome. But each pool is different, and results vary.


You also, do not want to drain a pool when the water table is high- basically if you have 3-6 inches of rain coming your way, do not drain a pool as it could potentially pop-out. You also don’t want to drain the water into an area around the pool. The ground can absorb the water, and this can also create a situation where the pool can pop-out. This is rare and something you really don’t need to worry about. You of course only want to Acid Wash a plaster of Pebble Tec pool and never acid wash a Fiberglass pool.

If the pool has heavy calcium staining on the surface, organic and metal staining can be trapped under the calcium. You can check for calcium before draining the pool simply by feeling the pool surface.

If it feels very rough like sandpaper, chances are there is a lot of calcium build up on the surface. Before doing the Acid Wash you will need to power sand the pool surface. You can rent a power sander at Home Depot and then sand down the entire pool surface prior to the Acid Wash. During the Acid Wash if you notice the staining is not lifting off, take some sandpaper and rub the area. Then pour the acid mix over the area again. If the stain lifts then you know there is a coat of calcium build-up on the surface and you will have to power sand the entire pool.

Never use just straight acid on the surface. This will etch and damage the surface and will create streaking of the plaster. If the stain is not coming off calcium is probably the issue and not the acid mix.

The basin in the deep end is very critical. I always add Soda Ash to the basin and leave the Sump Pump (Submersible Pump) running so that the acid running off the walls does not pool up and stain the plaster. If this happens, once the pool is filled you will see a discolored ring around the deep end of the pool. So, keep the basin filled with Soda Ash or Baking Soda to neutralize the acid as it runs into the deep end basin and out through the Sump Pump.

If you follow these tips your Acid Wash will turn out great and your pool will have a new lease on life.







Tuesday, August 13, 2019

Pool Blaster Hydro 500: Amazing Suction and Performance!


I must say that I am impressed by the New Hydro 500 cordless battery-operated cleaner by Water Tech. I have used and tested many Water Tech devices and the Hydro 500 was surprisingly powerful! The large debris chamber makes the old internal bag cleaners seem small in comparison. Here are some of the features of the Hydro 500 from Water Tech.



The unit will run up to 45 minutes on a full charge. Featuring a reusable Xtreme Multi-Layer Filter and large debris chamber, the Hydro 500 vacuums all types of debris including leaves, twigs, sand, and dead algae. 

The Hydro 500 comes complete with a 10.50-inch vacuum head and a smart charger which turns from red to green when the unit is fully charged. Simply attach the unit to a pool pole, turn the unit on and you are ready to vacuum.

To purchase on Amazon.com: https://amzn.to/2H1GC1Z

•SKU# -26051SL
•Lithium Powered, fully rechargeable in 4 hours
•Up to 45 minutes run time
•Push-button ON/OFF switch
•Includes (1) Reusable Xtreme Multi-Layer Filter 
•Includes 4 Piece sectional pool pole
•Vacuum Head Width: 10.50”
•Quickly removes all debris, leaves, sand,
and dead algae
•Cordless, no hoses needed
•Attaches to any standard
telescopic pool pole
•Warranty: 1 Year Limited

I really like the power of this unit. The suction is pretty amazing, and it picks up dirt and leaves very well. The soft flex vacuum head is much like the one on their Pool Blaster Max unit and it does great in corner areas and has a very wide cleaning path. The new design with the large debris chamber and filter cone allow for continuous use without the cleaner losing suction. This allows you to use the Hydro 500 for longer vacuuming times without having to stop and empty a debris bag. I find that the cleaner also picks up dirt very well. The filter cone will trap most of the dirt and allow you to use the cleaner to pick up sand and dirt as well as leaf debris.

The Hydro 500 is shipped with 4 small plastic pole sections that you can assemble to make a short 5 ft pole. The included pole sections will allow you to vacuum your above ground fiberglass spa with ease and you don’t need a separate pool pole. But you can also use your standard pool pole with the Hydro 500 so it can be used to vacuum regular in-ground pools as well as spas and above ground pools. The pole easily attaches to the handle on top making vacuuming very easy to use.

The game-changer for me is that the Hydro 500 is completely water-sealed. There is no need to open up a battery compartment to charge the cleaner. Simply plug in the included adapter to the prongs on back, and it will charge the internal battery completely in less than 4 hours. No more worrying about O-rings or the seal failing on the cleaner. The average run time of the cleaner is 45 minutes which is a very good amount of vacuuming time for any rechargeable device.

If you are looking for a compact and powerful battery-operated vacuum, the Hydro 500 would be a great choice.


 – A list of all of my videos.






Thursday, August 8, 2019

The 3 Best Suction Side Cleaners are all the Same!


When Hayward acquired the PoolCleaner form Poolvergnuegen a few years back I had a suspicion that they would use the patented parts in their other pool cleaners. I was correct and Hayward used the V-Flex turbine from the PoolCleaner in their Navigator and Pool Vac cleaners. What I didn’t see coming was the duplication of the PoolCleaner model into the Hayward AquaNaut and the Hayward Phoenix cleaners. This has lead to some confusion in the industry so this article will try to clear things up.


All three cleaners are the exact same cleaner. That is it. Just a different shell and a different name. All the internal and external parts are exactly the same, except for the different shell design and color scheme. Hayward did not want to lose the PoolCleaner Poolvergnuegen brand name that they acquired and rightly so. The Poolvergnuegen had a big following at the time and it was a very popular cleaner for the pool service guys around the country. The main problem for Hayward then was how do they offer rebates and incentives on a cleaner that didn’t carry the Hayward name?

Since Hayward owned the Copywrite on the Aquanaut name but didn’t have a cleaner in development for that brand name, they decided to just use the PoolCleaner as their newest cleaner and rebranded it the Aquanaut. There was the talk of killing off the Poolvergnuegen brand but Hayward decided to keep it and compete against themselves. The Hayward Navigator is the number one selling pool cleaner followed closely now by the Aquanaut and PoolCleaner. It was smart of Hayward to keep both names and market the cleaners to different segments of the market.

Leslie’s Pool Supplies always likes to have their own version of a cleaner to sell to their customers and Hayward obliged by putting the PoolCleaner into another body and calling it the Phoenix, which is only sold by Leslie’s Pool Supply. So now there are three versions of the same cleaner that all look distinctly different from the outer shell.

Now let me go over a few points that I think make this the best suction side cleaner on the market today.

No one likes to repair their pool cleaner every year or every 2 years. After paying $400 for a cleaner we don’t want to see it sitting on the bottom not moving. Poolvergnuegen was known for the durability of the PoolCleaner and it is extremely long-lasting. You will not have to change any of the parts on these cleaners for at least 5 years. With the exception of the rubber tires which wear out every two years. I have some PoolCleaner now that I haven’t had to open in over 8 years. And when it comes time to rebuild the cleaner Hayward makes a kit for it that takes 5 minutes to install and will essentially give you a new cleaner minus the hoses. You won’t find a better built cleaner than the PoolCleaner.

The patented V-Flex Turbine allows the PoolCleaner to pick up large debris without getting clogged or jammed. A pile of leaves will still stop this cleaner, but compared to other cleaners that are stopped by a tiny pebble, the PoolCleaner is unmatched. It is also a geared type cleaner so it won’t get stuck in the step areas or corners of your pool. It will climb the walls partially and is not designed to climb to the waterline like the Zodiac MX-8 or Pentair Rebel. This is not really a negative since 90% of the dirt is on the bottom and 60% of it is in the deep end of the pool.

It also features a patented swivel to prevent the hoses from coiling around and twisting and tangling the cleaner. This is an important feature with a geared type cleaner. If the swivel is not working, the cleaner will get tangled up on itself over time. This will happen with the Pentair Rebel and Pentair Warrior as well as with the older Hayward Navigator cleaners.

Bottom line, drop one of these in your pool and it will be spotless every day. It works that well.



YouTube Video Index: http://pool





Tuesday, August 6, 2019

Best Swimming Pool Acid Wash Results: The Acid Mix is Critical


An Acid Wash is a great way to renew your pool’s overall look without re-plastering it. The acid mix will take off a layer of the plaster and if done correctly with the right mixture, it will also remove 95% of the metal stains and other staining. That is one reason I use the Bio-Dex products when I do my Acid Washes. Their products actually do what they say, and you can see the stains coming right off the surface of the pool.




The Acid Wash mix is the most important element of Acid Wash. Here are the products that you need for a successful acid wash. You will need 31.45% Muriatic Acid mixed with water in a 2 to 1 water to acid mix. Bio-Dex Plaster White ‘n Brite to help thicken up the acid solution so that it runs smoothly down the walls of the pool and to reduce the acid fumes. Bio-Dex AquaDex 50 Stain-Off which helps to remove iron and other metal staining from the surface. If you use this Acid Wash mix you will have great results and the plaster or Pebble Tec will look as good as new!

You can prep the pool to remove some of the calcium build up on the tile with the Bio-Dex Protect-All-Supreme which will require you to raise the water level over the pool tile calcium line, pour in 1 or 2 gallons of the Protect-All-Supreme into the pool and then run the pool for 24-48 hours. In most cases, this is probably not something that most customers will opt to do since almost all of the acid washes I have done were in pools that needed to be drained straight away. But it is a part of the treatment and something that you can do as the first step.

Here are the detailed instructions from Bio-Dex on how to do an Acid Wash the Bio-Dex way:

I modified their method because it calls for mixing everything in a 5-gallon bucket and the pouring it down the sides. But I have always done my acid washes using a Water Pot as I find this to be the easiest and most effective method. So in the video, I show you the Watering pot mixture also.

Acid Wash Tips:

Always wear protective gear as the fumes and acid are hazardous.

The first thing you should know when you go to do an Acid Wash is that the results cannot be predicted. I can look at a pool now and pretty much predict the outcome. But each pool is different, and results vary.

You only want to Acid Wash a pool if the entire plaster or Pebble Tec is intact. This means no cracks or chips are present. And acid wash will make the chipping even worse so if the surface is full of cracks and holes in the plaster, I would pass on Acid Wash and move straight to resurfacing it.

You also, do not want to drain and Acid Wash a pool if the air temperature is over 90 degrees as the surface can be damaged by extreme heat exposure. Nor do you want to leave the pool drained for more than one day in hot weather. You also do not want to drain a pool when the water table is high- basically, if you have 3-6 inches of rain coming your way, do not drain a pool as it could potentially pop-out. You also don’t want to drain the water into an area around the pool. The ground can absorb the water, and this can also create a situation where the pool can pop-out. This is rare and something you really don’t need to worry about. You of course only want to Acid Wash a plaster of Pebble Tec pool and never acid washes a Fiberglass pool.

If the pool has heavy calcium staining on the surface, organic and metal staining can be trapped under the calcium. You can check for calcium before draining the pool simply by feeling the pool surface.

If it feels very rough like sandpaper, chances are there is a lot of calcium build up on the surface. Before doing Acid Wash you will need to power sand the pool surface. You can rent a power sander at Home Depot and then sand down the entire pool surface prior to Acid Wash. During Acid Wash if you notice the staining is not lifting off, take some sandpaper and rub the area. Then pour the acid mix over the area again. If the stain lifts then you know there is a coat of calcium build-up on the surface and you will have to power sand the entire pool.

Never use just straight acid on the surface. This will etch and damage the surface and will create streaking of the plaster. If the stain is not coming off calcium is probably the issue and not the acid mix.

The basin in the deep end is very critical. I always add Soda Ash to the basin and leave the Sump Pump (Submersible Pump) running so that the acid running off the walls does not pool up and stain the plaster. If this happens, once the pool is filled you will see a discolored ring around the deep end of the pool. So, keep the basin filled with Soda Ash or Baking Soda to neutralize the acid as it runs into the deep end basin and out through the Sump Pump.

If you follow these tips your Acid Wash will turn out great and your pool will have a new lease on life.



YouTube Video Index: http://pool




Thursday, August 1, 2019

Why Liquid Chlorine is the Best Sanitizer for your Pool


I get asked often what the best chlorine type is to use in a pool. There are a great many choices out there and the best one is one of the oldest methods, straight liquid chlorine. In the old days, it used to be chlorine gas but with regulations and such that practice has disappeared. Liquid chlorine is strong and has the least side effects for your pool.



Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the tried and true standard chemical of choice for most pool service professionals. It is easy to use and relatively inexpensive and it has the least side effects of any of the chlorine you can choose from. It is usually sold in 12.5% active chlorine per gallon with Bleach coming in at about half that strength at 6.5%. It will raise the pH slightly, but it does not contain any Stabilizer or Conditioner making it ideal for all pool types. This means that when you add a gallon of liquid chlorine and your Conditioner level (CYA) is 50 ppm it will stay at 50 ppm even if you add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine.

Pros:
Fastest acting of all chlorine types
Will not raise your CYA level
Safe for all pool types
Easy to use

Cons:
Breaks down by the Sun’s UV Rays so your pool needs a CYA level of 30-50 ppm
Short shelf life so rotate stock or buy fresh chlorine when needed
The gallons can be heavy compared to a bag of shock
Is seen as weaker than shock based on the low percentage of chlorine but is stronger

Cal Hypo is very popular and there are a number of reasons why it is widely used in the industry. It is easy to carry and comes in different strengths 60-75% active chlorine. One of the major side effects is that it contains calcium, so over time it will raise your pool’s calcium hardness. Not an issue if you live in an area with soft water but I caution the use in areas with hard water. It also has a high pH of around 12 so it will raise the pH in a pool if you use a significant amount each week. It can also make the pool cloudy if you pour a bag directly in. A very powerful form of shock.

Pros:
Strong and easy to use
Does not contain Conditioner so it will not raise the pool’s CYA levels
Safe for all pool surface types but use caution with a vinyl liner

Cons:
Raises Calcium Harness in a pool
Raises the pH in a pool
Clouds up the pool water

Dichlor is a very popular form of chlorine and the granular form makes it very easy to measure and use in a pool. It is pH neutral which means it will not raise or lower the pool pH in any significant way. It does contain Conditioner, about 45%-50% by weight. So, if you add 10 lbs. of Dichlor to a pool you are also adding about 5 lbs. of Conditioner. Over time this will increase the pool’s CYA levels. A little Dichlor goes a long way making this an ideal chemical to carry on your truck if you service pools. Just don’t overuse it because of the high amount of Conditioner in the product. It is usually about 62% active chlorine by weight.

Pros:
Easy to use and powerful
pH neutral
Safe for all surface types
The long shelf life of 2-3 years

Cons:
Adds Conditioner to the pool

Tri-Chlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, a very fine powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner. So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of Conditioner. If you overuse tablets your pool’s CYA level can go up rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 95% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3 so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid so if one falls into the pool it is likely to stain the surface by burning it.

The powder form of Tri-Chlor shock is a good mix of both power and less Conditioner per pound. It is fast-acting but has a strong chemical smell so use caution when using it. It is less pure than the tablet form and is usually 65%-70% active chlorine.  I use it on my route and find it to be effective in shocking a pool.

Tri-Chlor granular is a very powerful stuff. It is basically the Tri-Chlor Tablet grounded up in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use with extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is basically acid and if you let it pile up on the pool surface it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer and if you do use it for Black or Mustard algae make sure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. Not for use in Vinyl, Fiberglass or color plaster pools.

Pros:
Very strong and slow dissolving in tablet form so it releases chlorine all week long
Easy to use and affordable

Cons:
Can stain the pool surface
Contains 50% CYA by weight








Tuesday, July 30, 2019

Using Sodium Bromide to Treat Yellow or Mustard Algae



A Sodium Bromide product will work effectively in treating Yellow Algae in your pool. As long as the active ingredient is Sodium Bromide it will work in clearing up the algae. The percentages vary by product and the Knock Out product shown here in granular form is 99% Sodium Bromide. They also make a Knock Out Problems liquid which is about 30% Sodium Bromide and part Clarifier also but no less effective.



One of the things that you need to do is to make sure you have a very high chlorine level before you start this treatment.  Bring the chlorine up to what we refer to as "Blazing High" if it is at zero ppm. This means you need to have a chlorine level of 5-10 ppm before you start using the Sodium Bromide product. If the chlorine level is already at 3-5ppm you should be okay with just the Sodium Bromide dosage and sanitizer to be added such as liquid chlorine.

One common mistake is not starting with a good chlorine level. Sodium Bromide will convert the chlorine to bromine and the Sun will also burn some off as the Bromine Molecule does not bond with the Cyanuric Acid molecule (conditioner does not protect Bromine) so even more chlorine will burn off. And some of the chlorine will be "eaten" or used up by the Yellow Algae itself. Basically, a Bromine bank is created with the active chlorine in the pool and since it is no longer protected by the Conditioner it will burn off very rapidly. Thus, you need to have plenty of chlorine in the pool, to begin with, to prevent all of it from burning off. It’s a bit complicated so just remember the higher the chlorine reading the better.

When you add any Sodium Bromide product you must follow up the application with some type of chlorine. I prefer liquid chlorine but you can use Cal-Hypo, Dichlor or other chlorine shocks. You would want to add 1 lb. of a powder shock for every 4 oz of Sodium Bromide. The Knock Out lid is actually 2 oz. so you will need to add 2 capfuls per 10,000 gallons of water that you are treating to make 4 oz of the product.

Step One:
Bring the chlorine level up to 5-10 ppm if chlorine is zero or lower than 3 ppm.

Step Two:
Brush the affected area really well, removing as much algae as possible from the walls.

Step 3:
Add the Sodium Bromide product directly over where the algae was before you brushed it. 4 oz per 10,000 gallons of water. If in two separate spots split the dosage over each spot. If the entire pool is covered in algae you will have to quadruple the dosage. For example, if the pool is 20,000 and full of algae adding 8 gallons of liquid chlorine and 16 oz of the Sodium Bromide may be called for to be effective. You just need to multiply the amount of Sodium Bromide depending on how severe everything is in the pool.

So broadcast the Sodium Bromide over the area and then follow it with either a gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine, 2 gallons of 6% bleach, 1 lb of Cal-Hypo or 1 lbs of Dichlor. It is crucial that you follow up the Sodium Bromide dosage with some type of chlorine to ensure the product won’t eat up the entire active chlorine in the pool. In that case, the pool will get worse and not better.

Step 4: Run pool through the entire cycle or as long as possible – 12-24 hours is optimal.


If you follow the procedure in the video below the yellow mustard algae will be destroyed and you can use a maintenance dose to prevent it from returning - about 1 oz. per 10,000 gallons. I use Sodium Bromide on my route and week to week it is the most effective way to treat algae.



YouTube Video Index: http://pool