The One True Benefit of a Salt Water System

Salt water generators are also referred to as saltwater systems or chlorine generators have only one true benefit and that is they generate and add chlorine to your pool for you. You no longer need to buy 3” Tri-Chlor Tablets, liquid chlorine, or Cal-Hypo shock. If you are looking for other benefits to justify the price there really isn’t one.

 You really don't save any money when you convert to a salt pool. In fact, it cost a lot more than using Chlorine or Bleach in your pool. Factor in the cost of the unit plus install, say $1,500 and then a new salt cell every 3-5 years at $500 and the salt to start $150 and you’re looking at over $2,000 for the first 5 years. And this is a low estimate in some regards.  You would have to spend over $400 a year on chlorine to match that number. Typically, you are not spending over $100-$200 a season for your chlorine.

 The other drawbacks are constantly rising pH. Calcium flakes in the pool. Corrosive water to metal components to name a few. I would want you to weigh the one benefit against these cons before making the leap to a saltwater system.

 I am pretty honest about the true benefit of a saltwater system, the fact that it adds chlorine to the pool without you having to do anything. This means no more trips to the pool store for shock or liquid chlorine. It is a great time saver for sure. But for me, that is the one and only benefit.

With that said, a saltwater system is a preference. And if you can absorb the cost of the system and don't mind the extra overall cost of a salt pool, then it is the way to go. I mean who wants to add tablets and liquid chlorine or shock every week to their pool? With a Saltwater Generator connected to your pool equipment, you can basically set it and forget it. Of course, there is some maintenance required like cleaning the salt cell, making sure the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool, but for the most part it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.

 But in the long run, as stated above there is no way it can beat the overall cost of maintaining your pool with chlorine. So, if the salesperson tries to convince you that a Saltwater Pool is cheaper to operate he is misinformed. Basically, upgrading is a personal choice and one you should make according to your overall pool care budget. Everything depends on how much more you are willing to spend on not worrying about adding chlorine each week to your pool. I personally have a Saltwater Pool and I am so used to the convenience of it that I wouldn’t be able to go back to a manual chlorine pool. So, once you convert you probably will not go back either.

There are many very good Salt Systems to choose from in today's market. And many with installation will be under $1,000 so it is getting more and more affordable. I would suggest looking into the Jandy TruClear and the Pentair iChlor Salt Water Systems to start with. Both are great compact systems loaded with the latest technology. Both are rated for about 30,000 gallons so even if you have a very large pool these systems will work fine for you. There are also some off-brand salt systems that start around the $500 range so shop around for the best system depending on your budget.

 

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Jacuzzi JVS 185S VS Pump - the Perfect VS Pump for Most Pools

There are many benefits of going with a 1.85 THP VS pump. One of the biggest is that if you currently are running your equipment on 115V you can upgrade to this pump and have a really powerful pump at your disposal. Most 115V pads have just a 1 hp or less pump and with a 1.85 THP pump, this gives you a lot more flow and potential. The Jacuzzi JVS 185S is a dual voltage VS pump which means it works with either 115V or 230V without any rewiring. 

Moving from a 1.5 hp or even a 2 hp to a 1.85 THP pump is a great option for you as well. It will give you the same head power up to a standard 2 hp pump without the added cost of a 2.7 or 3.0 THP VS pump which might be overkill in a lot of setups. 

Another benefit of the Jacuzzi JVS 185S is the very large wet end or pump pot area. It is the same size as the JVS270S VS pump and rivals the wet end of most larger 3.0 THP VS pumps on the market today. 

If you are looking for an affordable and reliable VS pump and of course looking for one that is in stock now, the JVS 185S is available at your local Leslie’s store. And if you are a member of their rewards program you get an additional 1-year warranty added onto the 2-year manufacturer warranty. 

The JVS 185S is also automation-ready which means it will work with any of the major brand automation including Hayward, Jandy, and Pentair. 

Of course, a benefit of a variable speed pump that should not go unmentioned is the fact that running your pool with one over a standard one-speed pump is the massive energy savings. Some manufacturers put it around 80% a year in savings and realistically you will save a lot of money on your electricity bill. Simply because the VS pump runs at a slower speed than a standard single-speed pump. 

Jacuzzi JVS185S 1.85THP Variable Speed Pump uses an innovative hydraulic design to deliver enough power to replace pumps up to 1.5 full-rate or 2.0 max-rate HP.

Innovative hydraulic design

Touchless, easy disposal debris bag

Industry-leading energy efficiency

Manufactured in the USA

Simple retrofitting w/ pump base options and 2" x 2-1/2" PVC union connections

Fan-cooled permanent magnet motor is completely enclosed

Ports on sides and rear for easy installation

The intuitive control panel can be rotated or removed and mounted to the wall

JVS185S is part of the most energy-efficient line of pumps, according to EPA Energy Star

110/220 volt

2-Year Limited Warranty

This elite energy-saving variable speed pool pump can significantly reduce electricity costs. Designed for durability and built with chemical-resistant Viton seals, the JVS185S protects against corrosion and is backed by an industry-leading 2-Year Limited Warranty. The no rib strainer basket makes debris removal easy!

To order: https://lesliespool.com/jacuzzi-jvs185s-1.85thp-variable-speed-pump/41123.html#description-btn-div/?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=spll&utm_campaign=spll

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The "Not Enough" Economy has Hit the Pool Industry

 Not only are we dealing with 5.9% inflation but there is an extreme shortage of everything in the Pool Industry this season. Looking for chlorine, yeah everyone is. How about a heater? Or a particular VS pump. You are out of luck.

What is causing the issue? It all started with the Bio Lab fire last year in which the largest Tri-Chlor factory went up in smoke. This factory-produced an amazing 2 million pounds of Tri-Chlor each year. Of course with 3” tablets in the short supply pool pros started grabbing liquid chlorine, cal hypo, and dichlor to sanitize their pools. And the supply chain could not keep up. Why there is also a shortage of Muriatic Acid is anyone’s guess. In this “Not Enough” economy it could be as simple as there are no boxes to put them in.

Some of the solutions are obvious. Switch chlorine types to the one that is readily available even though it will be inconvenient. For example, liquid chlorine might be available in your area and 3” tablets may be in short supply. In that case, you need to know that each day a pool loses at least 1 ppm of chlorine if there is a party even more (at 50 ppm CYA). If you arrive on a Tuesday and the pool is at 2 ppm and you add chlorine to bring it to 5 ppm by Friday it will be down to 2 ppm and Zero by Sunday. You can leave a gallon or a 1lbs bag of Cal Hypo and have the customer add it to the pool on Friday morning. Not the best solution but the only one besides installing a liquid chlorine feeder (which are currently out of stock). 

Can’t find a Pentair Master Temp heater? Try a Jandy or Hayward one. Raypak makes great heaters but they are huge and take up more space. Make sure the other brand will fit which is not a problem for a Jandy or Hayward heater that is the same size or smaller than a Pentair Master Temp. I would not go from a 400 BTU heater to a 266 BTU heater unless your client doesn’t mind 2x the heating time. If their spa took 20 minutes to heat up figure with the smaller BTU heater for 40 minutes. If their pool took 6 hours then it will take 10-12 hours. Not a good idea. 

Almost all VS pumps are now compatible with the other brand's automated systems. So if you can’t find an Intellifo VS you can go with a Jandy Flo Pro VS. You would just need an open relay on the panel. Some of the off brands may not be automated ready so be sure to check. For example, the Pentair SuperFlo VS cannot be connected to an automated system. Some VS pumps are easy to connect like an Intellifflo to a Jandy iAqualink: https://www.poolspecialists.com/articles/How%20to%20Connect%20an%20Intelliflo%20Pump%20to%20Jandy%20RS%20Wiring%20Diangram.pdf

You can also connect different heaters and lights to different automated systems. For example, Fluidra states:

iAquaLink supports color lights manufactured by Jandy®, Pentair® and Hayward®. 

There are options available if you can’t find the brand of equipment you need. 

A note about Leslie’s Jacuzzi line-up of equipment. Note that the VS pump is made by Hayward so it is automation-ready for all of the systems and that their heaters are made by Raypak. If you can’t find any equipment the Jacuzzi branded line-up is a good option. And their filters are made by Waterway. 

The bottom line in this not enough economy is to be flexible and maybe look at brands and products that were not on your radar even a year ago. If it is in stock that is half the battle.

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Ariel by Solar-Breeze Features and Review

Ariel by Solar-Breeze is their newest solar-powered surface cleaner. Their first one was the Solar-Breeze back in 2007 and they updated that cleaner with the NX in 2015 and the NX2 in 2018. The Skimbot was their latest cleaner until the Ariel was released in 2021. 

To order the Ariel: https://solar-breeze.com/product/preorder-ariel-by-solar-breeze/

The Ariel to me is a combination of the Skimbot and the Solar Breeze NX2. I like the overall design and look of the cleaner although I am not a fan of the color scheme. Aesthetics aside this cleaner is simple and effective. Here is more about Ariel from the manufacturer and I will give you my likes and dislikes afterward.

“How does Ariel navigate?

Ariel is propelled through the water by two paddle wheels located at the rear of the unit. In addition to propelling the unit forward, these paddle wheels can rotate at different speeds or in opposite directions, allowing Ariel to steer around obstructions that she may encounter in the pool, or turn when she comes to the edge of the pool. Barriers and obstructions are detected by optical sensors located at the front of the unit.

Where does the debris go inside Ariel?

As the pool robot passes over the surface of the pool, the front paddle wheel rotates forward to scoop the debris into the debris collection area. Water that enters this chamber passes through the fine mesh screen in the debris tray. The mesh screen filters out pollens, dust particles, bugs, and of course, all of the larger organic material which is stored inside.

What do I do with the debris?

Ariel’s debris collection chamber is about twice the size of a normal skimmer basket. When the chamber becomes full, you can simply remove Ariel from the pool using the convenient handle, remove the debris tray from the unit and empty it into a trash collection container or compost bin. Then, return her debris tray, ensuring that the tray is pushed all the way back and that the locking tabs are engaged. Put Ariel back in the pool and press the power button.

How does Ariel stay energized?

The solar panels on the top of Ariel provide enough energy to power the robot all day long and, at the same time, charge an onboard battery. After the sun goes down, the pool robot will operate for several hours on battery power. When Ariel stops, she will float in the pool with navigation lights flashing. In the morning, when the sun comes up, she will recharge and start up again on her own.”

That is Ariel in a nutshell and it does work very well. Below are some of the pros and cons that I found after testing Ariel for a few months. It is like an updated Honda accord. The body and styling have been completely revamped and the paddles on the back taken from the superior Skimbot cleaner. A worthy upgrade and a great solar-powered surface cleaner. 

Pros:

Cleans the surface very well and hugs the tiles

Turns and pivots for full coverage

Sensors on the front are highly effective

Picks up large debris without issue

Runs all day in most pools

Handle on the front for easy retrieval

Picks up a large amount of debris

Simple and easy to use

Slot on top to see if debris tray is full

Beefed up solar panels with more heat resistance

Cons:

Can get pulled into the skimmer with pool running

Takes some time to start up after a cloudy day

Funky color scheme

No app control

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

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Common Rookie Swimming Pool Chemistry Mistakes

If you are just getting started in the pool industry or just bought a home with a pool, there are a few common chemistry misconceptions that you should know about. I go over a few of these in this podcast with chemistry expert Bob Lowry.

Bob Lowry is the author of over 23 books but this has to be one of his most relevant and shortest books coming in at just 19 pages thick. But it is packed with so many essentials on residential pool chemistry that you will want a copy to carry in your service truck. Bob Lowry has been in the industry for over 47 years and is the Lead Consultant at Lowry Consulting Group, leads the Pool Chemistry Training Institute, and has created the Certified Residential Pool & Spa Certification Program. Learn more at  https://pcti.online/

If you are struggling with algae in a pool and the chlorine level appears to be fine at 3 or 4 ppm and you are scratching your head, the answer may be something you never considered. Maybe 3 ppm is not enough to prevent and kill the algae? Yes, it is the industry standard but Bob Lowry has a theory that is supported by 1,000 hours of research that the Cyanuric Acid level (CYA) actually should dictate a pool's Free Chlorine (FC) level. The magic number is 7.5%. This means for a pool to be free of algae the Free Chlorine level needs to be 7.5% of the CYA level.

How does this math look:

If your CYA level is 50 ppm then you need an FC level of 3.75 ppm so let's make it 4 ppm. If you have a pool at 50 ppm and you are having algae blooming and the FC is at 3 ppm this means there is not enough Free Chlorine in the pool to kill and prevent algae. Raising it to 4 ppm will prevent algae in the pool. 

If the CYA level is at 100 ppm then you will need 7.5 ppm of FC to prevent algae from growing. If that pool is at 5 ppm it will allow algae to grow because there is not enough Free Chlorine in the water.

Another thing to note that if at any time during the week the FC level drops below this mark, algae can form. Let’s say the customer has a pool party on Saturday. The chlorine level zeros out and your service day is Tuesday. That means for 2 days that pool had no FC in it. During those 2 days, algae can certainly grow and bloom. 

So how do you prevent this from happening? Having a good FC level all week is the logical answer. One way to boost the chlorine is to use borates in a pool to 50 ppm. Borates are a natural algaestat which means it prevents algae from even forming.

With borate at 50 ppm, the formula changes to 5% FC to the CYA level.

So if a pool has a CYA level of 50 ppm you only need 2.5 ppm of FC in that pool each day to prevent algae. 

I also think using a mineral technology like a PoolRx is a great way to boost the chlorine in a pool. The PoolRx will kill and eliminate all microalgae in a pool and keep it algae-free.

Pool runtime is also another critical part of this equation. The more you can run a pool the better. If a customer only wants you to run their 20,000-gallon pool 5 hours per day, I can almost guarantee algae will form in that pool. For one, the chlorine will not be circulated effectively and there will be dead spots in the pool – areas where chlorine won’t get to make it ineffective.  The pool run time and circulation are one way to prevent algae from forming. 

If you keep the pool’s FC level up to the acceptable level and run the pool as much as possible your pool will remain algae-free barring any filtration issues. 

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

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Vacuuming a Swimming Pool with Your Suction Side Cleaner Hoses

 Vacuuming a pool from a suction side cleaner is something that is very easy to do. All you really need is a good vacuum head and a standard swimming pool pole. You would just use the hoses that are attached to the skimmer or the side port of the swimming pool. There's no need to use a standard vacuum hose with a suction side cleaner because the hoses are already in the pool.

You may need to adjust the section of the cleaner in some cases, and this can be done either at a valve by the pool equipment that controls the side port or at the skimmer with the skimmer regulator for the cleaner. Most of the time I don't bother to adjust the suction and just use whatever suction the cleaner had before with the manual vacuum head. Besides that, if you do have it connected to the side port you really can't open up the suction completely because that would cause too much cavitation in the pool pump. It's also a hassle to adjust the skimmer regulator valve and then adjust it back again so I usually leave it alone if I'm vacuuming from the skimmer connection.

The manual vacuum head or a standard vacuum head will connect easily to most universal suction side cleaner pool hoses. The only real exception is the Zodiac MX8 or MX6 or any of the Zodiac cleaners with the locking hoses. In that case, you will need the Zodiac manual vac head hose adapter. This adapter is designed to connect your manual vacuum head to the locking hoses so that you can vacuum out a pool using Zodiac locking-type hoses.

I like using the Pentair Pro Vac because it is probably the best vacuum head then you can buy. It has bearing wheels and also weights to hold it down on the pool bottom. And it has a swivel handle which makes it very easy two spot vacuum a pool from the suction side hoses. You can use any manual vacuum head but I prefer using the Pentair Pro Vac because to me it just makes vacuuming the pool very quick and easy. it is not the cheapest vacuum head it is close to $100 in cost but the Pentair #R201276 214 is a vacuum head that will last a very long time and again it makes vacuuming very hassle-free.

You connect the man you vacuum head two ways. You can turn the pool off, pull the suction side cleaner to the side of the pool remove the cleaner head and then take the hose and attach it to the manual vacuum. I prefer doing this with the pool running mainly because a lot of times the pool pump and timer are pretty far from the pool and it's just a matter of going back and forth and kind of wasting time. So, I will pull the cleaner head towards the side of the pool with everything submerged take the cleaner head oof and then stick the hose against the pool wall and the suction from the pump keeps it pinned to the wall until I can get my vacuum head submerged and attach to the lead hose to the vacuum head. Doing this with the pool on of course takes some practice and it's easier to turn the pool off attached to the hose of the manual vacuum head, put the vacuum head in the pool, and then turn the pool back on.

 Note but you can only do this with a suction side cleaner and this does not work with a pressure side cleaner. A pressure-side cleaner is not connected to a side port or the skimmer but uses a dedicated return line to move that cleaner around the pool. How do you know if your cleaner is a section-side cleaner? It will be attached to the Side Port or skimmer and will have 1 1/2 inch in diameter hoses. If you are a homeowner with a suction side cleaner there's really no need for you to purchase a 40 foot or 50-foot pool hose. Again, are you in need is it good manual vacuum head and a pool pole.

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What are the Six Different Chlorine Types and Which is Best?

 There are 6 main types of chlorine products on the market today. There is Liquid Chlorine, Cal-Hypo, Tri-Chlor, Dichlor, Gas Chlorine, and Lithium Hypochlorite. The first 4 listed are of course the more common types and you may be familiar with them.

So, what exactly is chlorine, and which is the best type of chlorine for your pool? Chemistry expert Bob Lowry goes over each type of chlorine for you and its pros and cons. 

Bob Lowry is the author of over 23 books but this has to be one of his most relevant and shortest books coming in at just 19 pages thick. But it is packed with so many essentials on residential pool chemistry that you will want a copy to carry in your service truck. Bob Lowry has been in the industry for over 47 years and is the Lead Consultant at Lowry Consulting Group, leads the Pool Chemistry Training Institute, and has created the Certified Residential Pool & Spa Certification Program. Learn more at  https://pcti.online/

Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the tried and true standard chemical of choice for most pool service professionals. It is easy to use and relatively inexpensive and it has the least side effects of any of the chlorine you can choose from. It is usually sold in 12.5% active chlorine per gallon with Bleach coming in at about half that strength at 6.5%. It will raise the pH slightly, but it does not contain any Stabilizer or Conditioner making it ideal for all pool types. This means that when you add a gallon of liquid chlorine and your Conditioner level (CYA) is 50 ppm it will stay at 50 ppm even if you add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine.

Pros:

Fastest acting of all chlorine types

Will not raise your CYA level

Safe for all pool types

Easy to use

Cons:

Breaks down by the Sun’s UV Rays so your pool needs a CYA level of 30-50 ppm

Short shelf life so rotate stock or buy fresh chlorine when needed

The gallons can be heavy compared to a bag of shock

Is seen as weaker than shock based on the low percentage of chlorine but is stronger

Cal Hypo is very popular and there are a number of reasons why it is widely used in the industry. It is easy to carry and comes in different strengths 60-75% active chlorine. One of the major side effects is that it contains calcium, so over time it will raise your pool’s calcium hardness. Not an issue if you live in an area with soft water but I caution against the use in areas with hard water. It also has a high pH of around 12 so it will raise the pH in a pool if you use a significant amount each week. It can also make the pool cloudy if you pour a bag directly in. A very powerful form of shock.

Pros:

Strong and easy to use

Does not contain a Conditioner so it will not raise the pool’s CYA levels

Safe for all pool surface types but use caution with a vinyl liner

Cons:

Raises Calcium Harness in a pool

Raises the pH in a pool

Clouds up the pool water

Dichlor is a very popular form of chlorine and the granular form makes it very easy to measure and use in a pool. It is pH neutral which means it will not raise or lower the pool pH in any significant way. It does contain a Conditioner, about 45%-50% by weight. So, if you add 10 lbs. of Dichlor to a pool you are also adding about 5 lbs. of Conditioner. Over time this will increase the pool’s CYA levels. A little Dichlor goes a long way making this an ideal chemical to carry on your truck if you service pools. Just don’t overuse it because of the high amount of Conditioner in the product. It is usually about 62% active chlorine by weight.

Pros:

Easy to use and powerful

pH neutral

Safe for all surface types

Long the shelf life of 2-3 years

Cons:

Adds Conditioner to the pool

Tri-Chlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, a very fine powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner. So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of Conditioner. If you overuse tablets your pool’s CYA level can go up rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 95% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3 so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid so if one falls into the pool it is likely to stain the surface by burning it.

The powder form of Tri-Chlor shock is a good mix of both power and less Conditioner per pound. It is fast-acting but has a strong chemical smell so use caution when using it. It is less pure than the tablet form and is usually 65%-70% active chlorine.  I use it on my route and find it to be effective in shocking a pool.

Tri-Chlor granular is very powerful stuff. It is basically the Tri-Chlor Tablet grounded up in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use with extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is basically acid and if you let it pile up on the pool surface it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer and if you do use it for Black or Mustard algae make sure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. Not for use in Vinyl, Fiberglass, or color plaster pools.

Pros:

Very strong and slow dissolving in tablet form so it releases chlorine all week long

Easy to use and affordable

Cons:

Can stain the pool surface

Contains 50% CYA by weight

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Pool Blaster CX-1 Cordless Robotic Pool Cleaner Updated for 2021!

 The Pool Blaster® CX-1 is a cordless, rechargeable residential pool robot loaded with innovative features. There are no cords. No power units. It is truly a cordless robotic pool cleaner that will leave your pool spotless after each use. The CX-1 has been on the market now for a little over 3 years and recently it has been updated by Water Tech to make it that much better.

Plug it in and charge it up and the CX-1 is ready to drive itself into your pool. Yes, you read that correctly, the CX-1 will enter the pool on its own power. Simply set it by the pool edge, point the front towards the pool, and turn the power on. It will start up and drive into the pool and then begin it's cleaning cycle. This is a really cool feature!

You can set the CX-1 for two different cleaning cycles. The one-time cleaning cycle has been updated so that there are now two 2 hour cycles instead of the previous one 4.5 hour cycle. This means the cleaner is good for two one-time cleanings per charge. A weekly cycle is available where the cleaner will run for 1.5 hours the first day and then on days 2-7  it will turn on and run for 30 minutes. On day 7 after the cleaning cycle is over simply remove the CX-1 and charge it up for another weekly cleaning cycle. The CX-1 is designed to stay in the pool all week, just remove it and set it on the pool edge if you are going to use your pool that day. After you are done swimming the CX-1 will drive itself into the pool and continue the weekly cleaning cycle.

Another upgrade is that the water seal around the control unit on top has been reinforced to make it much more waterproof. The connectors for the charger have also been updated to make them more corrosion resistant. These are two areas of the original unit that would cause warranty issues and Water Tech has been quick to address them.

You can also select “Floor Only” or “Floor & Walls” when you turn on the cleaner. The CX-1 is designed to clean the pool floor and the walls up to the waterline. If you don't need it to clean the walls for a particular cycle, just chose “Floor Only” and the CX-1 will stay on the pool floor only. The CX-1 features powerful scrubbing brushes on the front and back and very large debris openings so it will clean just about any pool and leave it spotless all week. The large debris bag on the bottom will filter down to 2 microns.

Included is a hook that you can attach to your pool pole to retrieve the CX-1 from the pool bottom. The truly innovative part of this cleaner is that it is cordless. No worries about cable tangling or if you have enough cable for your pool. Or where to plug in the power unit. You just charge the CX-1 up and let it enter your pool and start cleaning. It is truly a revolutionary robotic pool cleaner.

To Purchase: https://watertechcorp.com/cx-1/

Key Features:

Cleans daily & weekly on a single charge -

The Volt 550Li robot features smart intelligence which lets you program a cleaning cycle daily or weekly intervals. It has a run time of up to 4 hours on a daily charge or up to 30 minutes a day for 7 days (with the first day being a 1-hour cycle).

Features a rechargeable Lithium battery - 

The Volt 550Li robot is powered by a Lithium Battery and requires 6-8 hours to completely recharge.

Comes with a hook for easy retrieval from your pool -

When it's time to retrieve the Volt 550Li robot from your pool, simply attach the hook to any standard pool pole and snag it by the handle.  No cord pulling required.

Filters at 7,200 gallons per hour -

Our high-capacity filter bags not only capture large and small debris but also sand, silt, dirt as well. Helping you maintain the cleanest water possible.

Peace of mind Warranty -

We stand behind every product we sell. The Water Tech Volt 550 Li robot comes with a 2-year limited warranty on lithium batteries, main parts-drive motors, and pump motors.

SKU #: 78000RR

Specifications:

Cleaning Coverage (sq. ft./hr.) 3542 sq. ft./hr.

Minimal Operation Depth: 16 in

Maximum Operation Depth: 15 ft

Run Time: Up to 4 Hours

Charging Time: 6-8 Hours

Cleaning Width: 18.0”

Suction Power: Up to 7200 gal. /hr

Unit Size: 19.85 x 18.0 x 11.0”

Unit Weight: 21 lbs

Retrieval Hook Adapter: Yes

Warranty: 2 year on batteries & motors

Battery Specifications

Battery Type: Li-Ion

Battery Configuration: 6S4P

Charger Specifications

AC-DC CHARGER:

Input: 100-240AC Volts 50-60Hz, 115W

Output: 29V

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Buying and Selling a Swimming Pool Route 101

One way to break into the swimming pool industry is to purchase a pool route. This is not like buying a business such as a fast-food restaurant or market per se and you are basically buying the income the route generates and not a physical business. I spend a week with Scott Roberts of National Pool Route Sales (NPRS) and he goes deep into what buying or selling a pool route is really all about. 

The Ins and Outs of Purchasing a Pool Route with Scott Roberts of NPRS (Episode 655) https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/8752413

What Exactly is a Pool Route and What am I buying? With Scott Roberts of NPRS (Episode 656) https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/8752675

How Do I Get Trained When I Buy a Pool Route? With Scott Roberts of NPRS (Episode 657) https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/8752775

Is the Pool Industry a Good Industry to Get into? With Scott Roberts of NPRS (Episode 658) https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/8707839

Keys to Success in Owning a Pool Route with Scott Roberts of NPRS (Episode 659) https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/8753371

You can learn more on their site: https://poolroutesales.com/

What exactly are you buying when your purchase a pool route? According to Scott Roberts, you are in all intent and purposes buying the monthly income. Just like you would if you bought a lawn service company or house cleaning company. There is no physical business unless the pool company for sale has a retail outlet which is not common. The purchase consists of pools on the service route for sale that is generating an income of some type. You are not buying a physical business then but the income of that route itself.

As Scott mentioned in the podcast NPRS does hold back money in escrow for 90 days so if you lose some accounts, not due to any errors or bad service practices, those accounts will be replaced or refunded. I am sure the guarantee is specific to situations out of your control and of course, you will have to contact NPRS for the full details. But since you are buying an income that income needs to be the same after the 90-day period. Again, this is a bit odd as you are not buying a physical business but the income from the pool route you purchase.

Is buying a pool route a good idea for you? I think there are a number of reasons that are good to purchase one. Instant income. Seller training. A tight route. A well-established business. And the list goes on. There are some downsides as well. High cost of the route. Lack of experience. Unknowns and uncertainties of getting into a new industry. And the list here can go on here as well. 

The bottom line is that if you don’t think you can build up a viable pool service route within a year, buying a route may be a good option. It is up to you to do the research in your area to see which option is best for you as every service area is different. I would contact Scott directly to talk about your options.

Scott Roberts 

Florida Sales Agent

National Pool Route Sales, LLC.

(561) 708-4744 (My Direct Office - no text available here)

Email: Scott@poolroutesales.com

Here is more about NPRS:

OUR SERVICES

National Pool Route Sale’s customers are supported by our ongoing marketing and management program, The Millionaire Pool Man. This free program is available to our clients through an online portal after the purchase of your route. There is where all your questions about best practices for maximizing growth and profitability are answered.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT US

Charles Baird is the Founder of National Pool Route Sales, Inc. (NPRS), a brokerage for pool service and repair companies. Mr. Baird has sold and consulted for more than 15,000 pool service companies over the past 40 years. He is the author of The Millionaire Pool Man Program which includes: The Millionaire Pool Man Management Guide and The Millionaire Pool Man Marketing Guide, both are considered the premier business tools for an individual entering the pool service and repair industry. Mr. Baird is a Licensed Real Estate Broker in multiple states.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.