WaterGuru Smart Pool Monitor, is it Any Good?

There are a few things that sets the WaterGuru apart from other smart pool monitors. It is designed to replace your skimmer lid so that there are no floating monitors in the pool, it stays hidden in your skimmer. There is also no monthly subscription fee for the device. The test cassette lasts up to 8 weeks with one water test per day (although you can do a test on-demand at any time with a press of a button).

The WaterGuru test for Free Chlorine, pH, water temperature, and flow. One test is run each day with the pool on and running. In the app you will need to set the optimal time for the Water Guru to run the test, I set mine for 1:30 pm when I know the pool will be running during its normal cycle. Each cassette will last for 8 weeks and the replacement cost is very minimal if broken down over 2 months. It works out to about 3.5 cents per day to test these for factors (FC, pH, Temp, Flow -GPM).

To order the WaterGuru: https://amzn.to/3wKqMCZ

Visit their website to learn more: https://waterguru.com/

Is the WaterGuru accurate? In my testing, it matched up very well against the Sutro and my ColorQ 2x Pro 7 photometer. For various reasons, you will not get the test results to match up exactly except for maybe in the lab. Each device takes a water sample from a different part of the pool, even right next to each other. They also use different photometer devices to read the results, but they all came in within the margin of error in my testing. The WaterGuru is accurate.

What I like about the device is that it does not require a monthly or yearly subscription. You just purchase the unit at the current price of $295.00 and then a new cassette every 8 weeks. It is also backed by a one-year replacement warranty. 4 “C” batties will also need to be replaced and the app keeps track of the battery life for you. A very affordable device.

The app for the WaterGuru to me is better than the discontinued pHin. It is also easy to set up if you have a solid router. I use the NETGEAR - Nighthawk AX4200 Dual-Band Wi-Fi Router which is a $200 router and the setup was fairly flawless. I just had to connect with my phone right on top of the Water Guru device, but once the wifi was connected it seems to maintain a good connection. It helps that my router is about 20 ft from my pool skimmer, where the WaterGuru is installed. A wifi extender may be needed in some cases.

It works with patented technology “Optical sensor precisely reads the color of each measurement pad, registering small changes indiscernible to the naked eye.” It is made to last, “Made from laminated-glass components to ensure stability in chlorinated water.”

 

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

pH is Rising in my Swimming Pool -Help!

Rising pH can be frustrating for many pool owners and pool pros. You can add acid and then the next week the pH is back up or you may be trying to lower it and nothing seems to be happening. 

Swimming pool pH is often a test factor that is misunderstood or not given the proper attention. We know it is one of the big 3 test factors alongside Chlorine and Alkalinity but why is the pH important to measure and keep in the range each week? I think the premiere expert on pH would be the late Bob Lowry and below is a podcast I recorded with him on the subject.

Bob Lowry has created over 100 chemicals used in today’s Pool & Spa Industry and has written over 20 books on pool & spa chemistry.  He has been in the industry for over 47 years and is the Lead Consultant at Lowry Consulting Group, leads the Pool Chemistry Training Institute, and has created the Certified Residential Pool & Spa Certification Program. Learn more at  https://pcti.online/

Here is a podcast I did with Bob Lowry on the subject:

Raising and Lowering the pH in a Pool With Chemistry Expert Bob Lowry: https://www.buzzsprout.com/110832/7361284

I think it is also important to note that you may think your pH is high in your pool when in reality it is perfectly fine at 7.8. The ideal ranges may not be ideal for your pool based on the LSI. If you haven’t studied or used the LSI is pool balancing there is probably no greater resource than Orenda. Not only can you use their free LSI calculator but they offer three free courses that will teach you all about how pH at a higher level can benefit your pool. 

Orenda: https://www.orendatech.com/

Many things can cause the pH to rise in your pool. A Saltwater generator produces a byproduct that causes the pH to rise rapidly. Any spa spillway or water feature will cause the pH to rise through aeration. The pool surface in itself can cause the pH to rise. High alkalinity in the pool can cause the pH to stay high.

pH is the most important test factor for your swimming pool and if it gets out of balance there are many negative effects that you will encounter. The ideal pH is 7.5.

Low pH will cause: 

Corrosive Water 

Stains

Etched plaster

Eye & Skin Irritation

Cloudy Water

Increased Chlorine Activity

Destruction of Total alkalinity

Stretching of Vinyl Liners

Blistering of Fiberglass Pools

High pH will cause:

Scale Formation

Stains

Cloudy Water

Short Filter Cleaning Cycles

Eye & skin Irritation

Poor Effective Chlorine 

Testing for pH:

Testing once a week is ideal. For a new pool, start-up testing daily for the first two weeks is recommended. But once a week will give you a good indication of how stable the pH is in the pool water. There are various ways of testing the pH; test Strips, basic test kits, and Taylor Kits that use reagents. Alternate testing can be done with the ColorQ Pro7 Photometer testing and Digital pH testers.  

Lowering high pH: 

If the pH starts to get high in your pool the only way to lower it is by adding acid. Either a dry acid or liquid acid. Muriatic Acid of 31.45% is the most common acid used to lower the pool's high pH. Dry acid or Sodium Bisulfate is the dry form of acid that can be added to lower the pH. Some test kits like the Taylor K-2006 will have an Acid Demand Test. This is a reagent test that will tell you how much acid to add to your pool to lower the pH. A chart is included with pool gallons and how many pints or quarts to add depending on the test results. 

Raising low pH:

If your pH is low you can raise it up using a base. A base is the opposite of acid and it will raise the low pH up in your pool rapidly. The best base is Borax as it will raise the pH without raising the Total Alkalinity.  Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) works well also but it is mainly used for raising the Alkalinity and requires large amounts to raise the pH. Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate) raises the pH well but it also raises the pool's Alkalinityup so use Soda Ash if Borax is not available in your area.

Bob Lowry has written extensive Tech Bulletins and here is an excerpt from one on pH for you.

Source:

https://poolchemistrytraininginstitute.com/adjusting-ph-and-alkalinity-in-swimming-pools/

“You would think that adding muriatic acid, dry acid, soda ash, or even bicarb for adjusting pH and alkalinity would be a simple calculation. This is reinforced by the fact that there are charts and tables listing the amount of acid, soda ash, or bicarb needed to lower or raise pH and alkalinity. This leads you to believe that the amount of acid needed to change pH from 8.0 to 7.5 will be the same regardless of the alkalinity, CYA, borate, calcium hardness, salt, and water temperature. Not true. All of these water conditions affect the amount of acid, soda ash, or bicarb needed to make the changes."

The article goes into very detailed explanations of pH and it is worth reading the entire write-up by Bob Lowry.

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

BWT RC60 Robotic Pool Cleaner

 The BWT RC60 is one of their new flagship robotic pool cleaners. It features app control through the BWT RC app through your device's Bluetooth connection. It also comes with a very solid transport caddy and the cleaner itself is backed by a solid 2-year bumper-to-bumper warranty. 

Who is BWT (Best Water Technology)? I will try to summarize it here without too much confusion. BWT is the parent company of the Aquabot Robotic Pool Cleaners. To be more correct they are the parent company of Aquatron which in conjunction with AquaProducts made up the company known Aquabot owned by Fluidra. When Fluidra merged with Zodiac Pool Systems the European Union said Fluidra would have a monopoly if they were allowed to own Aqaubot (Aquatron & AquaProducts) as well Zodiac who makes the Polaris robotic pool cleaners. 

Aqaubot was then split into two companies, Aquatron and AqauProducts. Previously these were two divisions under the one name Aquabot.  Fluidra kept the AquaProducts division and some robotic cleaners and Aquatron kept the Aqaubot name and some robotic cleaners. I have a copy of the full list of cleaners that were kept by AquaProducts and which are owned by Aquatron and the list is of course extensive. BWT is the parent company of Aquatron and thus that is why you see the company known as BWT selling Aquabot cleaners. Eventually, they plan on moving away from the Aquabot name and utilizing the BWT branding on their new cleaners.

I know it is a little like the “Who’s on First” Abbot and Costello routine but needless to say BWT has been making robotic pool cleaners from the very beginning of the technology. I have filmed and tested over 25 Aquabot cleaners through the years and can vouch for these cleaners as being some of the best technology on the market today.

You can visit their website here: https://www.aquabot.com/en/

Here is more about the RC60:

For pools up to 12 meters 40 ft long) long

18 Meters of Cable (60 ft)

Cleans the floor, walls, and waterline

Compatible with every pool shape and surface finish (stainless steel, concrete, liner, tiles, etc.)

Duration of the cleaning cycle: 1.5h, 2h, or 2.5h (cycles can be managed through the BWT RC app)

2 years + 1-year limited guarantee on the power supply, motor, and cable

Caddy included

Decorative LED lighting (blue glow)

This robotic cleaner unites every advantage: one of the best filtration performances on the market, unbeatable suction power, exceptional agility over every surface, onboard intelligence, robust, outstanding reliability. It is the first choice of professionals and discerning pool owners.

Fast, intelligent cleaning

The RC60 features a smart navigation system. Comprised of a gyroscope and an algorithm the RC60 picks the best cleaning path. The pool floor, walls, and water line are perfectly clean with a minimum number of passes. 

The finest filtration performance on the market

The RC60 is fitted with the state of art 4D hyperfine filters. This filter consists of elastic 3D loops that trap even the tiniest particles. You will find the dirt and debris this cleaner trap is simply amazing!

Compact, hydrodynamic, and energy-efficient

With its very low lines and very compact design, BWT RC60 easily maneuvers through tight spaces and navigates around return fittings and objects on the pool floor. Its hydrodynamic design reduces drag so less power is needed to drive it through the water. Saving time and energy.

Connected

The BWT RC60 model features a Bluetooth module. Using the BWT RC app available for download free of charge from the Applestore or Playstore, you can take control of the cleaner. You can start and stop your RC60 remotely, and navigate via the built-in remote to direct your pool cleaner to problem areas.

Light up your life!

The RC60 robotic pool cleaner offers the best of this type of technology: clean surfaces, crystal clear water, a contemporary design, and as a bonus a blue LED light to give your pool a cool effect at night. 

Holy Wars by MusicLFiles

Link: https://filmmusic.io/song/9238-holy-wars

License: https://filmmusic.io/standard-license

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Ultimate Green Swimming Pool Clean-Up Method

Green Pool Clean Up Step by Step:

Make sure the pool can be cleared up vs draining it and refilling the pool. A rule of thumb is that if there are more than 4 inches of sediment on the bottom, draining may be better. This would be a lot of algae and dirt on the pool bottom so more like a pool that has been sitting unattended for over a year or more. Generally, a pool that has only been green for a few months can be cleared up with just chemicals and algaecide. Also, make sure the equipment is in good working order.

Step One: Scoop out all of the leaves and debris from the bottom and surface. Don't worry about stirring everything up, you will vacuum at the end of the treatment.

Step Two: Brush the pool as best as you can. Some of the algae might be really tough to brush off. If you have a plaster or Pebble Tec Pool a Steel Algae Brush will help. But a lot of the algae will be loosened once you add the chemicals to the pool. 

Step Three: If you have a D.E. Or Cartridge filter take it apart and clean it. The filter type is usually on the label on the filter. 

If you have a Sand filter you will just be Backwashing it during this process. For a D.E. Or Cartridge filter, you probably will have to clean it again at least one more time or more. 

Step Four: Bomb the pool out. You want to bring the chlorine level up to 30-50 ppm to start to kill the algae. A lot of the chlorine will be destroyed by the algae and other organic material in the pool in the first 24 hours. A shorthand guide:

14,000-gallon pool: 14 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine or a combination of that and 1 lb. Bags of shock. 

20,000-gallon pool: 20 gallons of 12.5% chlorine.

30,000-gallon pool: 30 gallons of liquid chlorine. 

I suggest using Sodium Bromide to help kill the algae. Sodium Bromide is very effective, however, it does “use up” some of the chlorine so don't overdo it. I suggest one capful added with one gallon of liquid chlorine. So, if you are adding 8 gallons of liquid chlorine, 4 capfuls of Sodium Bromide should be sufficient. You want some of the chlorine to be active, so you don't want to add 8 capfuls of Sodium Bromide to the pool. Each Capful is about 4 oz. 

Step Five: Run the pool for 24-48 hours straight during the process. You may have to add more chlorine after 24 hours and clean the filter again. No need to vacuum the pool yet. Let everything slowly settle to the bottom first. This may take a couple of days. 

Step 6: After the pool has cleared enough for you to see the bottom, you can manually vacuum out the pool. The stuff on the bottom will be dead algae and other organics like dead mosquito larvae and other bugs and plants. If you have a sand filter or a D.E. Filter with a “Waste Mode” vacuum the pool with the Multi-Port Valve to that setting. If you do not have a backwash valve with a “Waste Mode” you can vacuum directly to the filter. Note that you will need to clean the filter after vacuuming if you do not vacuum to Waste. 

A portable clean-up pump comes in handy here, but it is an investment of about $200. If you plan on using it again it would be a worthwhile investment, otherwise, just vacuum to the filter and clean the filter.

It may take a week or two weeks to completely clear up but the pool will eventually turn back into a crystal clear blue pool. 

FLOC?:

Using a pool Floc has its benefits and you might want to purchase a bottle or dry container of Aluminum Sulphate (Floc) to help accelerate your pools recovery. Basically, the Floc will help to clump up all of the dead algae and organic particles and sink them to the pool bottom. Generally, you will leave your pool off for 24-48 hours for the Floc to be more effective. Once everything drops down to the bottom the pool will be much clearer, and everything will be easier to vacuum out. In most cases you need to have a filter with a multiport valve so you can vacuum to “Waste.” Or you can use a portable clean-up pump if you have one.  Floc is optional but can help to clear the pool up faster, especially if you have an inefficient filter type like a Sand Filter.

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NaTiddy - The Fastest Robotic Pool Cleaner in the West!

To say this robotic pool cleaner moves fast is an understatement. I received this test model and put it in my pool, I thought there is a short circuit somewhere and the motor was getting too much power, because this thing ran across the pool floor. I really can’t think of any cleaner that I have tested that moved this fast. 

You can order it here for under $600.00: https://poolcleaner.natiddy.com/

It features some great horizontal wall climbing reminding me of the older Aquabot Models that unfortunately have been discontinued. I like the horizontal wall climbing as it is an effective way for the cleaner to get from one area of the pool to another without having to drop to the floor. The timer also reminds me of the old Aquabots with the 2-hour or 5-hour runtime. It can also be set to floors only which is a great way to quickly spot clean a pool. 

The cleaner bottom has some cool features. There are water jets on the bottom that activate, I assume on a timer of sorts and these jets will lift the cleaner off the floor so the possibility of this thing getting stuck on the main drain won’t happen. It also has 3 extra rollers to help move it along the pool bottom and walls and the rollers are a pretty cool combination of runner and PVA material. Something I have not seen before tried in a robotic cleaner.

It comes with 56 ft of cord, no idea why such an odd cord length but with that much cord you can use this in a large pool without issue. The test model I was sent had the cord pretty tightly packaged and that kind of gave it a memory. Still trying to straighten it out after running this thing about 8 times now in my test pool. I suggested that they coil it in a circle instead when they ship the actual units out. 

It features a 90-degree wall climbing ability and can pump 4,756 gallons per hour. The filters are rated down to 5 microns so almost as good as a DE filter. The combination of rubber and PVA brushes are unique to the industry and a lot or R&D went into this cleaner. 

The belts on these generic cleaners have been the biggest issue and fail point. The belt drive that they use on the NaTiddy look almost automobile quality. Like the belts you would find on the fan drive in a car. Extremely thick material and I would imagine that the belts will be very long-lasting.

For an MSRP of $600 this cleaner packs a lot of great features. 

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Pool Surface Help, Products to Make Keeping Your Pool Surface Clean!

 Let’s face it, skimming a pool all day with a leaf rake is a waste of time and effort, especially if you can install devices that will do the job for you. Below is a list of some of these. Let me also say that there are a few logical things you can do to reduce a pool’s surface debris which includes running your pool for a proper length of time, running your Variable Speed Pump at a higher RPM, trimming the trees and bushes around the pool and making sure the skimmer weir door is intact and functioning. 

PoolSkim:

This is a very innovative and easy to use device that connects directly to your pool's 1 1/2” threaded return line. If your pool has stub pipe fittings you can purchase inserts for it, but it is designed to thread right into the spot where you remove the 1 1/2” eyeball fitting. The PoolSkim works great as it uses the pool return to create a secondary skimmer and traps all of the surface debris in the large attached bag. 

POOLSKIM the automatic pool skimmer – Review: http://youtu.be/BLtN702NrJQ

PoolSkim Complete Installation Guide: http://youtu.be/2UgVDNOg3p8

To order the PoolSkim: http://amzn.to/2yNsqai

SkimDoctor 2.0:

This is an affordable and very easy way to increase your pool skimmer's efficiency without doing anything except attaching the SkimDoctor 2.0 to your existing skimmer basket. Installation is very easy and once installed it creates a vortex and pulls in surface debris from further away and with much more velocity. 

SkimDoctor 2.0 Set-Up and Installation Guide: https://youtu.be/COqDPsChxi4

To order the SkimDoctor 2.0: http://amzn.to/2xKAUPh

Betta 2.0:

Automatically remove various floating objects on the water surface, such as leaves, dust, pollen and dead insects, etc. 100% of energy power comes from solar energy. There is no cable connection, and a built-in battery provides power for use at night.

The underwater brush-less motor directly drives the thruster, eliminating the shortcomings of the low life of traditional reduction gears.

Unique wireless remote control function, which is convenient for you to easily switch between automatic and remote control. You can use the remote control to operate the robot to perform fast fixed-point clearing or use the remote control to control the robot to dock at any time and anywhere.

The large basket capacity and the unique upper handle solution are suitable for cleaning the basket without removing the machine from the water.

HIGH-GRADE SOLAR PANEL

Up to 21.5% conversion efficiency of the solar panel's surface is covered by a piece of wear-resistant ETFE material. This makes the solar panel more effective and durable, therefore having a longer life.

You can order the Betta 2.0 here: https://www.amazon.com/Betta-Automatic-Chip-Controlled-Chlorine-Tolerant/dp/B09XBP6GG3/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Betta%252B2%252B-%252BSolar%252BPowered%252BAutomatic%252BRobotic%252BPool%252BSkimmer&qid=1650296036&sr=8-1&th=1&_encoding=UTF8&tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=2376432b6293a91549c88d43cd4e89db&camp=1789&creative=9325

Leaf Bone: 

The Leaf Bone Leaf Net Skimmer Clip is a simple yet effective product for your in-ground pool with a ladder. One end clips onto your standard leaf rake and the other end clips onto your 1.9” diameter pool ladder. As the water passes by, the leaf net attached to the Leaf Bone catches leaves and debris.

For about $12.00 this is an affordable way to skim your pool surface in a passive way and cut down on the surface debris. For now, the leaf bone only fits an in-ground 1.9” pool ladder rail. An Above Ground pool model may be the next one released if there is enough demand for one.

Order the leaf bone:

https://www.amazon.com/Leaf-Bone-Attachment-Separately-Automatic/dp/B012BV48LC/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=8b8b202c0019c04897866586026dad2b&creativeASIN=B012BV48LC

You can learn more on their website:

https://www.chlorinegenie.com/

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

Chlorine Genie a Revolutionary Way to Balance Your Pool Water

The Chlorine Genie will generate chlorine for your pool without the need of adding 400, 600, or 800 lbs of salt to the pool water, all of the salt used to generate chlorine remains inside the Chlorine Genie itself! This is by far the safest and cleanest chlorine production unit on the market today! As a side bonus, the Chlorine Genie will also allow for pH adjustments so in most cases you no longer will need to add Muriatic Acid or Soda Ash to balance the pH in your pool.

The Chlorine Genie is not a new product. It was launched back in 1995 and was independently operated until 2 years ago when Ultimate Water acquired the product. This is just the latest generation and probably the most refined version to date of the Chlorine Genie.

There are currently two different units available:

RT30 Single Cell unit is optimized for residential settings and is for pools up to 40k gallons in size. The CT50 Dual Cell unit is optimized for semi-commercial settings and pools up to 80k in size. The primary difference is that the RT30 produces 0.6 lbs of chlorine each day and the CT50 produces 1.2 lbs of chlorine each day. Both are installed and operate in the same way except the CT50 has two cells.

How the unit works is very similar to a typical saltwater generator. Except for the salt being contained in the brine tank of the Chlorine Genie and not in the pool. That is why no salt needs to be added to the pool water itself. Another major difference is that the salt cell in the Chlorine Genie will remain much cleaner and free of most scale since “pure soft water” is used in the brine tank (the descaling filter removes the hard water).

In addition to this, a typical saltwater generator makes Sodium Hydroxide which is one of the reasons the pH rises so high in a saltwater pool (the other reason being water turbulence in the salt cell itself). Since the Chlorine Genie has a “pH drain” you can drain out the Sodium Hydroxide byproduct and the pH will remain much more stable. The water soft water in the brine tank is also lower in pH allowing you to balance your pH by adjusting the pH drain on the unit.

The Chlorine Genie comes with everything you will need for installation except for the PVC pipe and PVC cement to extend out the pH drain on the unit. Here are some of the things you will need for proper installation:

A clean water source 50 ft from the Chlorine Genie, usually the hose spigot in the backyard. The Chlorine Genie uses freshwater to generate chlorine. If your water source is further away contact the manufacturer and they will send you out longer tubing. Constant water pressure of 40-80 psi needs to be going to the unit when it is producing chlorine.

The Chlorine Genie injects the chlorine back into the pool at your pool equipment area specifically near the pool pump. The placement needs to be within 10 ft of the pool pump and on a flat level surface. A 20” by 20” area is all you will need.

You will also need a 110-120v GFI socket near the installation point. Most newer pool pads have a GFI socket attached to them.

Last, to regulate the pH with the pH Drain, you will need a suitable area to drain the water too. A drain into the sewer, gravel, dirt, or another such non-planter or grass area. Not recommended to drain directly onto cement as the alkaline water could bleach the cement.

That is it for the setup and it can be installed in just about any pool equipment area that meets these requirements.

If you are looking for a safe way to add chlorine to your pool and regulate the pH the Chlorine Genie may be the right product for you.

 

You can learn more on their website:

https://www.chlorinegenie.com/

 

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Adding More Chlorine to Your Pool Could Be the Answer

If you're having trouble cleaning up a green pool or curing a pool with algae, the answer could simply be to add more chlorine. This may not be the problem but in many cases, you are just not bringing the Free Chlorine level up to a high enough PPM. Technically by adding more chlorine you can solve many lingering pool water quality issues.

The sweet spot in terms of ppm varies per pool. A good rule of thumb is that you will want to bring the chlorine level up to 30-50 ppm and keep it there until the pool issue you are trying to cure is gone. Whether that be a green pool, a pool full of mustard or yellow algae, or a pool that is cloudy and has a high amount of Combined Chlorine. I term this process “Shock and Awe” and other forums like TFP call it the “Slam Method.” Regardless of the name, adding the correct chlorine level is crucial.

Bob Lowry came up with a formula that states that a pool’s FC level needs to be at 7.5% of the pool’s CYA level to be effective against algae and bacteria. So if the pool CYA level is at 100 ppm your FC level needs to be at 7.5 ppm to even begin to prevent algae growth. If that pool has an FC level of 3 ppm that will not be enough chlorine to prevent algae and certainly not enough to clear up the algae. You also want to keep the chlorine level elevated until the problem clears up.

That leads to another issue as well. If you raise the pool’s FC level to 30 ppm in the case of a green pool and let the chlorine level get to zero again before the pool is cleared up, you will not be successful in turning that pool around. On the flip side, if you keep the FC level up for 4 days in that green pool at 30 ppm, chances are by the 3rd or 4th day that pool will be returning to a semi-blue and clear state.

Not to oversimplify things but adding the right amount of chlorine or more chlorine will cure many water quality issues. The other parts of this equation are circulation and filtration. If you run a 20,000-gallon pool for 2 hours a day in the peak of Summer it will turn cloudy or green on you. Even with a proper amount of chlorine. If you run that same 20,000-gallon pool 15 hours a day but the filter is dirty or has bad filter grids or cartridges the pool may still turn on you, even with the proper FC level. The chlorine level is just one of the three factors in the water quality equation, a very important factor. 

You can stretch the pool’s chlorine level out with the following products.

Phosphate and Enzymes:

This one-two punch can be highly effective in allowing the chlorine to work in the pool on the things it was intended to and not be “used up” by phosphates and non-living organics.

Instead of getting technical and trying to teach a science class explaining how enzymes work, we will try to break it down more simply. Enzymes break non-living things down into smaller and smaller bits. Many non-living things are in pool and spa water; body oils, sweat, cosmetics, and sunscreens to name a few. This frees up the chlorine to work on the things it was intended to fight like viruses and bacteria instead of being wasted on these non-living organics. 

Phosphate reducers are specialty chemicals used to remove phosphates from pool water. They are typically salts of aluminum or lanthanum which, when added to water, produce insoluble phosphate compounds which are removed through filtration, vacuuming, or both. Creates an ION exchange causing the phosphates to drop and they can be vacuumed and filtered out of the pool. Phosphates are food for algae and by eliminating them from the water you eliminate at least one major food source for algae. This will prevent algae growth which is a big reason why the chlorine level drops rapidly in some pools. 

PoolRX and Mineral Systems:

Using the PoolRX on your pool route will save you time and money. The manufacturer's claim of saving 20-30% on chemical costs is not far-fetched and once you try a PoolRx in one of your accounts you will be surprised by how effective it is.

PoolRx is a Mineral Technology that does two very simple things when used in your pool or spa; it eliminates all algae and will allow you to use less chlorine during the pool season. The active ingredient is Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate (chelated).

By eliminating algae growth the chlorine is automatically freed up and will last longer in a pool. Mineral technologies like the Frog and Nature2 also use minerals (metals) to prevent algae. 

Borates:

The Borate in the water at 50 ppm helps reduce chlorine usage by eliminating Carbon Dioxide and also by keeping the pH stable. Chlorine lasts longer when the pH is right at 7.6-7.8. When the chlorine is in the ideal range the killing element in chlorine the HOCI is at the most balanced percentage so the chlorine in a pool with a pH of 7.4 is 30% more effective than in a pool with a pH of 8.0. This is a big factor in creating the safest swim environment and the borates will keep the pH much more stable and in turn, make the chlorine much more effective.

The pH won't change much in a pool with Borate in it. So, if you have a Salt Water Pool this is a must since the pH tends to rise dramatically. In fact, in a Salt Water Pool the pH can rise to over 8.4 very rapidly. You will find yourself putting tons of acid in each week just to keep the pH below 7.8. With borates in the pool, the pH will be stable and easy to control.  It is a must for a pool with a Salt Water Generator. It also will keep your salt cell from building up calcium rapidly since it sequesters the Calcium in the water. This means the salt cell will remain clean and your salt system will run much more efficiently.

Boric Acid is a known Biostat. This prevents the algae cell from forming and multiplying. Thus, a pool with a Borate level between 30-50 ppm will prevent algae growth. Since borate prevents the algae cell from growing, algae blooms will be a thing of the past. No more algaecides or shocking the pool, algae just won’t grow in your pool any longer.

Any one of these or a combination of these will save you money on your pool route by reducing the amount of chlorine you will be using from week to week. With chlorine at such high prices, it just makes sense to use an enhancer to offset the cost. You can charge the customer for the product and even if absorb some or all of the cost you will be saving money on your chemical cost each week. 

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Jandy TruClear "Check Cell" Error Code

The Jandy TruClear Salt System, in my opinion, is a very reliable saltwater system but like everything you may see an error code on the screen. Knowing what the error code signifies is an important troubleshooting step. Here is a list of codes and what they mean with of course an emphasis on the “Check Cell” code.

“Check Cell” Error Code:

Check Cell

When the system is running within a valid chlorination window and detects a cell short

circuit or overload. Designed to warn the user or service person. Output is OFF. 

Check Cell

When the system is running within a valid chlorination window and detects a cell open circuit

or disconnection. Designed to warn the user or service person. Output is off but retries each 30

seconds.

This code is more common once your salt cell reaches the end of its life cycle which is around 3-5 years. The lifespan ratings are usually noted by the manufacturer in hours and most salt systems are rated for 10,000 hours of use. The “use” is when the salt cell is operating and producing chlorine which depends on the output setting. If you leave your system at “100%” output the lifespan will be the true 10,000 hours vs if you lower the output to say “70%” which means that the cell is only producing about 40 minutes out of every hour. Then you have other factors like how long your season is and the number of salt plate cleanings you perform. 

All of this is to say that the ballpark 3-5 year salt cell lifespan is very open-ended. So the “Check Cell” error is a good indication that the TruClear cell has reached the end of its active lifespan. To fix this error you would simply need to replace the cell. The system is backed by a 3-year warranty and if the panel were to display the “Check Cell” in the first 2 years, Jandy may in fact warranty the cell for you. Generally speaking, the “Check Cell” error will come on after 3 years of use. 

Note that this will mean that your salt system is no longer producing chlorine. A very important point. Until you replace the cell you will have to add chlorine to your pool each week. The production will remain off each day even if the system were to turn on. You will hear an audible clicking noise from the control panel until the cell is replaced and the “Check Cell” error is corrected.

Here is the replacement cell and fortunately it is relatively inexpensive. Jandy R0693900 TruClear Salt Cell Replacement

Here are some other error codes you should be aware of as well.

Lo Temp/Lo Salt 

Low water conductivity When the system detects low water conductivity, this could be caused by cold water, low salt levels, or a combination of the two. Check the salt level. Output is ON.

No Flow 

No flow or low flow When the system detects an absence of flow while operating within a valid chlorination cycle. Output is OFF. 

Over Temp 

Overheated controller The controller detects internal temperature and may can reduce output power as a self-protection feature. At 70ºC (internal) output power to the cell is reduced by 50% (no message displayed). At 80º C (internal) output power to the cell is reduced to 0% (OFF), and this over temperature error is displayed. Output is OFF. Designed to warn the user or service person of overheating. Please confirm that this warning message automatically disappears when internal temp goes below 80 °C

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