Thursday, October 11, 2018

Just the Basics - Some Tings to Know About Pool Care


In this series I am going to cover some basics on pool care that you should know if you are a homeowner or a pool service technician. There are a number of things that fall into this basic category and I will go over a few of them here. Of course, there is a lot to know about a pool overall but knowing these things will get you by.




The filter and filtration are key. How much does it matter if your pool filter is running well or not? It is the difference between a pool that is cloudy with algae, has poor flow and can’t hold the chlorine level and a pool that is crystal clear and balanced. If your pool is struggling, chances are the filter needs some attention.

If you have a cartridge or D.E. filter take it apart and clean it. With a sand filter you can backwash it and see if that improves things. After cleaning the filter if you notice little improvement chances are the cartridges need to be changed. If they are old, say 3-5 years old they have reached their life expectancy point. The D.E. filter grids may look fine but if they are 4-6 years old I would also replace them. With a sand filter you can change the sand if you notice that backwashing did little for the pool’s water quality. The pool’s filtration and filter play a big part in how the pool will look and how difficult it will be to maintain going forward into the season.

 
How green is too green? I am often asked if there is a limit to my Green Pool Clean-Up method of “Shock and Awe.” The short answer is yes. If the pool has more than 3-4 inches of sediment, gunk and algae on the bottom, then it may be too far gone to try to bring it back with just chemicals and filtration. You may be better off just draining the pool at that point and starting fresh. So, there is a limit to the “Shock and Awe” method.

In the same respect I am often asked how much chlorine is needed to shock a pool. The answer is typically more than you are thinking. For instance, if you go online and enter your pool size in gallons, the ppm of chlorine and the goal level, the online calculator may tell you to add one gallon of liquid chlorine to bring the chlorine up from zero to 5 ppm. But it doesn’t account for poor filtration, organic particles in the water and for algae.

So, if you simply pour 1 gallon of chlorine into a very cloudy pool, nothing much will happen. Let’s say you have a 15,000-gallon pool and it is so cloudy that you cannot see the bottom. I would add at least 4 gallons of liquid chlorine and run the pool for 24 hours. The next day it will probably be clear or at least clearing up. If I poured only one gallon in not much would happen. Same for a very green pool. Adding 2-3 gallons of liquid chlorine won’t do much. Adding 8-12 gallons will more than likely turn it back to at least a cloudy blue by the next day. So, you will need to shock your pool with more chlorine than you think. I always like to add more than less anyway, and you can’t add too much in these situations.

Almost as important as the pool’s filtration is the pool’s run time. If you have a brand-new filter but only run your 20,000-gallon pool 1 hour per day, chances are the pool will be cloudy at best and green at worst. Running your pool is critical. I suggest running it for at least one cycle per day, which is all the water passing from the pool, into the filter and then back out again. This will insure great water quality and safe water as the filter has a chance to circulate the water and chemicals and kill any bacteria or viruses in the water.

The last factor that also has a huge effect on the pool water quality is the water level of the pool. Low water can make the pool run poorly and create more debris in the pool causing you to use more chemicals each week. When the water level is correct the pool skimmer can pull the debris into the pool skimmer basket. The more debris that falls out onto the pool bottom the more likely the leaves and other organics will use up the chlorine in the pool. Also, if your pool is older there may be no safety mechanism preventing the pool equipment from running dry. This could mean that the pool pump will overheat from lack of water and burn out. So, the having low water in your pool can become very costly.

If you follow these basics your pool will be looking great all season long and you will have much fewer problems with your pool care.











Monday, October 8, 2018

What are these White Flakes in my Swimming Pool?


Chances are if you have a salt water pool you have seen some type of white flake blowback at one point or another into your pool or spa. The amount of these white flakes varies but, in many cases, your entire pool surface can be covered in them. I’ve had pools where I fill a whole leaf rake with them and some with Polaris Pressure cleaners where the bag is bursting with white flakes.




There are three possibilities of what the white flakes are.  The first one and least common is what is known as White Mold. It is not very common and to cure your pool of this you would need to bring your chlorine level up to very high levels, around 10-20 ppm. But in most cases the white flakes are not White Mold and something else.

The next possibility is that these flakes are coming from your salt cell plates and that they are small particles of calcium flakes that come back through the return lines. Usually these flakes are pretty thick and look like the calcium that forms on your pool tile. This does happen, and I have seen calcium flakes in some pools. But this is not as common as the third and final possibility.

This will sound strange and really out of the realm of possibility but those white skin like flakes in a salt water pool are most likely a reaction of the salt system with Phosphates in your pool. Even very low levels of Phosphates can cause this, and I have seen these white flakes with both very high and very low Phosphate levels. It doesn’t really take much Phosphates in the water to cause this reaction.

I find that the Pentair cells are the main producers of these white flakes. The Hayward cells to a lesser degree. I was told about this cause by a very experienced Pentair Warranty Service Technician. I didn’t really believe him, but he suggested that I should add some Phosphate remover to my salt water pools that have the white flake blowback. So, with no real reason not to give it a shot, I started using some PHOSFree in the pools with the white flake blowback.

Wouldn’t you know it, the white flakes started to go away in the pools that I was treating with the PHOSfree. In some cases, they disappeared entirely, in other cases there was an 80-90% reduction. It was pretty amazing.

I typically use 2 capfuls or 8 oz. each week and add it directly to the pool skimmer as the pool is running. After about one month of this treatment the white flakes are pretty much gone. If they come back I resume the treatment again. You can also just add the maintenance dose each week to prevent the whiter flakes from returning. The treatment is very easy to do any very effective.

If you are dealing with a pool with this white flake blowback from a salt water system, try adding the PHOSfree each week. The results will surprise you.



Thursday, October 4, 2018

Business Etiquitte: the Do's and Don'ts & Some Bidding Tips


There are many aspects of running a business and one that is often overlooked is Professional Etiquette. This includes how you present yourself to the customer and how you talk to the customer. Making a mistake here could mean the difference between landing the bid or service and not closing on the deal. Below are some do’s and don’ts to keep in mind.



Your service truck should be clean and presentable. Even an older truck can be kept in good shape. Showing up with a washed and clean vehicle is important. A vehicle wrap is a good idea and does make you look more professional. But don’t over do the wrap or the customer my get the impression that you are someone who will be charging very high rates. Wearing a uniform or at least slacks with a clean shirt is a must. The first impression on how you look is the one that will determine if you land the bid or not.

From there greet the person with “sir” or “ma’am” or if you know they are a professional like a doctor, use the proper title “How are you today Dr.” If the person you are meeting is a lady wait for her to extend her hand for a handshake. It is up to the person of the opposite sex to decide if they want physical contact. If it is a man, extend your hand for a firm handshake. Make good eye contact and smile.

Your language is important in business. I am a big proponent that cursing, swearing and slang have no place in the professional business world. If you curse in your private life that is fine, just keep it out of your business life. Cursing is a sign of ignorance and you want the potential customer to see you as an educated professional. Slang is also a sign of ignorance so no “dude” or “man” should be coming out of your mouth when doing a bid or talking to the customer going forward.

If the customer’s kid or kids are present during the bid, simply acknowledge their presence with a simple “hi.” Do not engage the customer’s child in conversation. You are a stranger to the family and kids don’t talk to strangers. Some parents might not appreciate you talking to their kids, I for one do not like it when adults try to engage my son in a conversation. So basically, ignore the kids during the bid and you will be fine. It is not being rude, you are following good etiquette.
   
Never talk bad about a customer while you are at the property, nor in a text message or in any other form. If you are talking bad about someone they may find out. If the customer is cheap or hard to deal with keep it to yourself. You may consider dropping them in the future but if they over hear you bad mouthing them that could be very awkward indeed.

When you are doing a bid for pool service you will want to give them the bid on the spot. That is why they called you. For a General Contractor it is understandable that you will need to email a detailed bid later, but for something like a pool or lawn service you should be able to bid on the spot. Consider the pool size, trees over the pool, usage and equipment and then come up with your typical service rate. You should have a good idea of what you bid from pool to pool before you go out and start taking bids for service. Not being able to give the potential customer a bid on the spot may seem unprofessional by some.

The first impression is the one that will stick so work on your presentation at home. It is an uphill battle if you present yourself as rude or unprofessional. Think about how you want to be treated when you go out to a restaurant or have a service bid presented to you.










Monday, October 1, 2018

Jacuzzi JDC and JDC+ Leaf Canisters


The Jacuzzi JDC and JDC+ Leaf/Debris Canister are a solid choice when it comes to suction side canisters for your pool. The JDC is a smaller canister while the JDC+ is the larger version. Both are very well made and come with a one-year manufacturer warranty.

The JDC canister features:
  • Twist-Lock lid
  • Quick and easy to remove debris
  • Clear plastic body for viewing basket contents
  • Comes with both a fine mesh bag and a plastic debris insert
  • Hose Swivel included
The JDC and JDC+ canisters come with two canister inserts depending on your debris type. If your pool has very fine particle debris, then you can use the fine mesh bag insert. If your pool mainly has large leaf debris, then the plastic insert would be fine. It is the only debris canister that comes with both inserts making them practical for any pool. Both canister inserts are very high quality and well made. So depending on the amount of debris in your pool each week you can either go with the smaller JDC or the larger JDC+ canister.

The twist off lid is very easy to remove making cleaning out the leaves and debris very easy. Since the lid O-ring is very thin, the lid does not get jammed on their if the O-ring expands over time. The ease of use is a real plus for these canisters. Getting the lid back on is easy also. The nice large handle also helps as you grip the canister to remove and put the lid back on.  The clear plastic of the canister also makes it easy to see when the canister needs to be emptied. You can easily access the O-ring on the canister by twisting the black handle down and then off the canister.

If you have a suction side cleaner a debris canister is a must for your pool. Without a canister you are risking having your suction line or vacuum line clogged with debris as well as your pump basket. This will cause the pool to run poorly and even cause damage to the equipment. So, if you have a suction side cleaner a leaf canister is a must. The leaf canisters also come in handy when you manually vacuum a pool and I use one all the time on my pool route when I vacuum out a pool. A leaf canister is a must for a suction side cleaner and I would highly recommend getting one if you don’t have one.




I think the thing to look for in a leaf canister is ease of use and durability. Since they are not inexpensive you want one that will be long lasting and durable. The Jacuzzi JDC and JDC+ are very well made and long lasting. I have several on my pool route and they are working great. The overall design and color of the canister goes well with any pool look and design and the ease of use is a real plus.

They are available at Leslie’s Pool Supply and you can also purchase them online at https://www.lesliespool.com/Jacuzzi-JDC-LeafDebris-Canister/JDC.htm




Thursday, September 27, 2018

What Type of Chlorine is Best for my Pool?


There is some confusion about what type of chlorine, known also as a sanitizer that would work best in your pool. I will go over the ones that I use and list the pros and cons of each one for you here. There are several different ones to choose from and hopefully after reading this you can purchase the best one for your pool care needs.

Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the tried and true standard chemical of choice for most pool service professionals. It is easy to use and relatively inexpensive and it has the least side effects of any of the chlorine you can choose from. It is usually sold in 12.5% active chlorine per gallon with Bleach coming in at about half that strength at 6.5%. It will raise the pH slightly, but it does not contain any Stabilizer or Conditioner making it ideal for all pool types. This means that when you add a gallon of liquid chlorine and your Conditioner level (CYA) is 50 ppm it will stay at 50 ppm even if you add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine.
Pros:
Fastest acting of all chlorine types
Will not raise your CYA level
Safe for all pool types
Easy to use

Cons:
Breaks down by the Sun’s UV Rays so you pool needs a CYA level of 30-50 ppm
Short shelf life so rotate stock or buy fresh chlorine when needed
The gallons can be heavy compared to a bag of shock
Is seen as weaker than shock based on the low percentage of chlorine but is stronger

Cal Hypo is very popular and there are a number of reasons why it is widely used in the industry. It is easy to carry and comes in different strengths 60-75% active chlorine. One of the major side effects is that it contains calcium, so over time it will raise your pool’s calcium hardness. Not an issue if you live in an area with soft water but I caution the use in areas with hard water. It also has a high pH of around 12 so it will raise the pH in a pool if you use a significant amount each week. It can also make the pool cloudy if you pour a bag directly in. A very powerful form of shock.

Pros:
Strong and easy to use
Does not contain Conditioner so it will not raise the pool’s CYA levels
Safe for all pool surface types but use caution with a vinyl liner

Cons:
Raises Calcium Harness in a pool
Raises the pH in a pool
Clouds up the pool water

Dichlor is a very popular form of chlorine and the granular form makes it very easy to measure and use in a pool. It is pH neutral which means it will not raise or lower the pool pH in any significant way. It does contain Conditioner, about 45%-50% by weight. So, if you add 10 lbs. of Dichlor to a pool you are also adding about 5 lbs. of Conditioner. Over time this will increase the pool’s CYA levels. A little Dichlor goes a long way making this an ideal chemical to carry on your truck if you service pools. Just don’t over use it because of the high amount of Conditioner in the product. It is usually about 62% active chlorine by weight.

Pros:
Easy to use and powerful
pH neutral
Safe for all surface types
Long shelf life of 2-3 years

Cons:
Adds Conditioner to the pool

Tri-Chlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, a very fine powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner. So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of Conditioner. If you overuse tablets your pool’s CYA level can go up rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 95% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3 so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in the for of Cyanuric Acid so if one falls into the pool it is likely to stain the surface by burning it.

The powder form of Tri-Chlor shock is a good mix of both power and less Conditioner per pound. It is fast acting but has a strong chemical smell so use caution when using it. It is less pure than the tablet form and is usually 65%-70% active chlorine.  I use it on my route and find it to be effective in shocking a pool.

Tri-Chlor granular is very powerful stuff. It is basically the Tri-Chlor Tablet grounded up in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use with extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is basically an acid and if you let it pile up on the pool surface it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer and if you do use it for Black or Mustard algae make sure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. Not for use in Vinyl, Fiberglass or color plaster pools.

Pros:
Very strong and slow dissolving in tablet form so it releases chlorine all week long
Easy to use and affordable

Cons:
Can stain the pool surface
Contains 50% CYA by weight




So, there you have some sanitizer choices for your pool. As you can see there is no perfect chlorine on the market, so you should get educated on which is best for your pool.





Monday, September 24, 2018

Star-Rite System 3 Filter Air Bleeder Upgrade!


One of my favorite cartridge filters is the Sta-Rite System 3 filter. They also make this in a De filter version and it is probably one of the most durable and longest lasting filters on the market. But the weak point of this filter is the very outdated and poorly functioning air relief valve. For such a large filter the air bleeder is very small and pathetically weak. But there is a simple $30 upgrade that you can make that will turn the air relief into a real beast.

Sta-Rite and Pentair are the same company now and Pentair makes a series of cartridge filters known as the Clean & Clear and Clean & Clear Plus.  They make an air relief valve that is awesome, and wouldn’t you know it, it fits perfect on the System 3 filter. Pentair 98209800 High Flow Manual Relief Valve Replacement Pool and Spa Filter. You would simply remove the entire air relief on top of the Sta-Rite filter and insert the 98209800 right in its place.

You don’t need any actual tools to do this, just an adjustable wrench and some Teflon Tape for the pressure gauge. Make sure pool timer is off and will not come back on during the process. Remove the old air relief assembly on top of the Sta-Rite filter and then thread in the 98209800, no Teflon Tape needed at that threaded area. Then apply Tephlon Tape to the pressure gauge and thread it into the Air Relief (after you remove the plastic plug). Now when you go to let air out of the filter it will take a matter of seconds and all of the air will be evacuated rapidly.

It is as simple as that and your Sta-Rite System 3 filter has been upgraded.  It is important to let the air out of the filter after cleaning the filter and after you clean the pump basket. This helps the pump prime easily and prevents air from getting trapped in the lines after the equipment turns off. You may notice air bubbles coming out of the return lines if you don’t do this. The 98209800 Relief Valve will make sure no air is in filter and I recommend this upgrade at your earliest convenience.

To order the Pentair 98209800 High Flow Manual Relief Valve Replacement Pool and Spa Filter: https://amzn.to/2ON51KH





Here are some more videos on the System 3 filter:
 Multi-Tork MTJ-770 Filter Socket for Faster Cleaning of Sta-Rite System 3 Filters: https://youtu.be/hO1x3S1EMio
STA-Rite System 3 Filter cleaning: http://youtu.be/d3q19HIm12w
When to Replace Your SYSTEM:3® Cartridges (Step by Step Guide on How To Install): https://youtu.be/5jph5gprxA4
Sta-Rite System 3® Retro-Fit Kit Review and Installation Video: http://youtu.be/ylcO7jTZ9pE
Sta-Rite System 3® Retro-Fit Kit Part 2 of 2: Cleaning the Cartridges: http://youtu.be/waSXKoHZfnw




Thursday, September 20, 2018

More Pool Guy and Gal Rookie Mistakes - Collecting Money Owed


Making mistakes in business is all part of starting out and learning what to do and what not to do. But if you can learn from someone else who has made every mistake beforehand, the better for you.  So here is part two of the series on Rookie Pool Guy and Gal Mistakes.  I am going to cover collecting money, how long to spend at each service account and more.



Let me start out with collecting money at the time of a job. If you are doing a green pool clean up or acid wash you will want all the money or at least 50% of it before you even start the job. I know asking for all of the money up front can sound intimidating to the customer, but it is better for you and I am writing this for the intent to show you how important this is. Say you complete a $1,000 acid wash and power sanding of the pool surface. You didn’t get any money up front because you trust the client. He says after the pool is filled that he doesn’t like the results. You just spend 2 days on the project and now you have no money to show and you are out the money for your helpers. What is your recourse at this point?

You can badger him to pay, but he continues to refuse. The next step would be to take him to Small Claims Court. There is a filing fee and you will have to give up a day of work to meet him in court. There is no guarantee you will prevail in the case. You can also put a lien on the property but in most states like Ca. you will have to bring a Civil Suit against him within one year otherwise the Lien in unenforceable. So, either option is tough, and you are still out your $1,000. It is better to get at least $500 up front and even better to get the whole amount. Then if there is a dispute you can arrange a partial refund but at least you are holding the money in your hands.

So, consider this when setting up your business. You can have them deposit the money in your PayPal account, leave you a check or cash or open a Square account and get the cell phone credit card swiper and charge their credit card at the time you start the job.  If you get a bad feeling and the customer simply refuses to pay anything up front, just walk away from the job. I would rather not take the chance of getting burned and then fighting for the payment later.

When you set up your company billing you want to also avoid giving away free services. I suggest charging for labor, the maintenance dose chlorine and acid but all other chemicals including 3” tablets will be an extra charge to the customer. This prevents losses from heavy chemical usage as well as losses when the prices of the chemicals invariably go up. This is not nickel and diming the customers but strictly running a profitable business. You charge for everything just like your mechanic does when you take the car in for service. He charges for everything even down to the tire stem caps.

Let me switch gears now and talk about how much time you should be spending at each service stop to remain profitable. If it is a standard 15,000 to 20,000-gallon pool, then 25 minutes should be your maximum time. In Texas where you are servicing 35,000 to 40,000-gallon pools then 45 minutes should be your maximum service time. Any more than that and you start to lose money. To speed up the service account make sure they have an automatic cleaner and proper running equipment. You may also be over servicing the pool by spending too much time vacuuming it when it only needs a spot vacuuming, or the pool may have too much debris in it each week. If you are spending a lot of time at one pool, consider dropping it when you pick up two pools that are quicker cleans. Time is money and you need to get each pool cleaned and checked within a reasonable time as illustrated above.

Half the battle is getting paid for your services and the other half is time management out on your route. Both can really hurt your bottom line and you need to set your business up so that it is profitable by getting paid up front for large service jobs and by not wasting time on one pool or several pools each day. Listen to the complete Podcast for more tips and things to avoid.






Tuesday, September 18, 2018

Libro Electronico: Cuidado de la Piscina La Guía Esencial ¡Más de 220 páginas cubriendo todo!


El libro electronico "cuidado de la piscina La Guía esencial "que yo llamo un e-book porque tiene más de 30 enlaces de vídeo. Estos enlaces de vídeo son por categoría para ayudarle a encontrar un vídeo para su problema específico de piscina o necesidad de piscina. ¿busca un limpiador automático? He revisado la mayoría de ellos y los enlaces de vídeo están todos aquí en este libro. Tenga en cuenta que debe tener una conexión a Internet para ver los vídeos. ¿Tiene un problema con la bomba o el filtro? Usted puede encontrar la solución correcta en estas páginas.  

Me habían preguntado en muchas ocasiones si tenía una guía completa de todos los mis videos, así que decidí crear uno aquí en este e-Book. El diseño es muy sencillo. Cada sección está listada en un orden específico y bajo cada sección hay artículos y más importante, enlaces de videos en mi canal de YouTube. Aquí están las secciones cubiertas en el libro:

Tratamiento de algas y limpieza de piscinas verdes
Equilibrar el agua de la piscina
Kits de prueba de piscina
Herramientas de limpieza
Herramientas de limpieza sistemas avanzados de vacío
Limpieza de la piscina
Limpiadores automáticos
bombas y motores
Filtros
Skimmers de piscina y productos de desnatado
Equipo y problemas de la piscina
Temporizadores y sistemas automatizados
Piscinas de agua salada
Manchas de metal y sarro en su piscina
Consejos para ahorrar dinero
Así Quieres ser un chico/chica de la piscina
Construcción y remodelación de piscinas
Si después de comprando, se desea una versión descargable, ¡envíeme un correo electrónico y le enviaré un formato en versión PDF para descargar para su computadora o dispositivo! 
¡sin costo adicional! 

¡Versión PDF también
 Disponible!
El e-book está en HTML5 Formato así que funcionará en su computadora, tableta o teléfono inteligente. ¡Tiene una plantilla compatible del teléfono elegante de modo que el libro sea fácil de leer en su dispositivo! Este es todo en un recurso.
Esto trae todo junto bajo una guía. En lugar de buscar en mi canal de YouTube o sitio web, todo lo que necesitas está justo debajo de la portada de este libro.

La mejor parte es que estoy ofreciendo este ebook para el precio bajo de $9.99. Usted puede comprar el libro en esta página web a través de una retirada segura de PayPal y empezar a utilizar el libro de inmediato.

Es el mejor recurso que puede Obtener y usted encontrará el formato muy fácil de usar. Elegí el formato Flip Book porque hace que sea muy fácil de navegar de página en página e incluye un cuadro de búsqueda que le permite escribir una palabra clave y luego saltar a esa página. Elegí HTML 5 formato para que cada ordenador y smartphone podría tener fácil acceso al libro.

Con más de 220 páginas de artículos y 30 enlaces de vídeo, usted encontrará la respuesta a su problema de la piscina si usted es un propietario o un técnico de servicio de la piscina.
-Este libro es ideal para el propietario de bricolaje y para el profesional del servicio de la piscina. Todo que usted necesita está aquí en este e-book comprensivo.
-Actualizaciones gratuitas del libro sin cargo adicional.
-Descarga gratuita de PDF versión a petición.






Thursday, September 13, 2018

Why Does My Swimming Pool Have Really Bad Flow Issues?


There are a few reasons why you may be experience poor pool flow or poor circulation. There are of course many obvious reasons along with some that might take some serious detective work to figure out. Poor pool flow will of course affect the over all water quality and safety of the pool water. Correcting poor flow and poor circulation is a must and here are some of the reasons for it.



Let us start with the basic issues. Check to make sure the skimmer basket is not full of debris. If the basket is full of debris, simply empty it and you should get your normal pool flow back. The pump basket can also be clogged with debris and this will also slow down the pool flow. Even if the basket looks clean there may be debris stuck in front of the pump impeller causing poor flow. Of course, check the pool water level to make sure it is not too low as this could affect the pool flow. Also, in the skimmer there is a weir gate that sometimes get stuck in the up position. Check to make sure that the weir gate is moving freely when the pump is running.

If you have a suction side cleaner sometimes the cleaner could get some debris stuck in the cleaner clogging the mouth of the cleaner and causing poor flow. Also, if you have an in-line canister it could also be clogged with debris. So, the point here is to make sure the obvious reasons are checked first and then you can move on to some other possible causes.

Moving on to the pool pump you will want to check the impeller for a possible obstruction. Usually the filter gauge will show a lower PSI than normal. For example, say it normally rides at 20 PSI but if the impeller is jammed it may show 10 PSI. This is easy to fix, simply turn off the pump, remove the basket and use a screwdriver to spin the impeller free. Once the clog is cleared you will here a gurgling noise as air passes into the filter. Fill up the pump pot with water, put the lid on and start the pump. In rarer cases the impeller will be cracked, or the diffuser will be warped. But in most cases clearing the impeller gets everything flowing again.

There could also be an air leak at the pump area in the intake or outlet area of the pump where the pipe threads in. If your pump has unions check the O-rings in the unions for any wear or cracks. In most cases with a suction leak you will see water leaking from somewhere at the equipment area. Replumbing that area will solve the flow issue.

In rare cases the line could get clogged with debris. This happens if your skimmer basket gets a crack in it or it floats up and lets large debris into the suction line. Vacuuming without a canister or having a suction side cleaner without an in-line canister can also cause a clog. Using a drain bladder to free the clog in the line is usually very effective. If the clog is very compacted you may need to call a plumber or pool service company out and they will blow the line with a Co2 tank. In rare cases the skimmer line could have a crack in it and you will need to replace the entire skimmer to fix the issue. Usually a cracked skimmer will also cause water to leak from the pool, so you will see a significant drop in your pools water level if this is the case.

Moving on to the filter it could be something as simple as a vert dirty filter. Clean the filter if it is a DE or a Cartridge Filter or backwash your Sand Filter. In some cases, the cartridge could be old and after replacing it your will see a dramatic increase in flow. Same with a DE Filter, changing the grids may also solve your pool’s flow issue. If you backwash your sand filter and still have poor flow, consider replacing the sand. The filter can be the cause of poor flow and the filter gauge is a good indicator of this.

On rare occasions there could also be an obstruction on the return side of your pool. A bad check valve can restrict flow and I see this often with the older Ortega Check Valves. Or a piece of the heater can break off and clog the return line. A Return Side Cleaner like the Polaris 360 with a clogged screen can also restrict flow. But this is pretty rare and most of the flow issues are on the suction side of the pool.
If you still can’t solve the flow issues it may be time to call in a pool professional or a Leak Detection Company like American Leak Detectors.




Monday, September 10, 2018

Aquabot MRT 2500 Robotic Pool Cleaner with a 2 Year 100% Bumper to Bumper Warranty!


The MRT 2500 is Aquabots latest edition to their robotic cleaner line up. It is a hybrid cleaner taking the Aquabot Breeze SE and adding some great features to it and making it the premiere model in this category. Besides the great color choice, the MRT 2500 can also connect to the Aqaubot APP where you can turn on and off the cleaner and set the cleaning cycle from your phone or device. It also features Aqaubot’s patented power washing jets on the bottom. I will go over the features of the MRT 2500 in more detail below.



Here are the key features of the cleaner:

90º Wall Climbing / Scrubbing using hydro-robotic technology
Cleans Pool Floors, Cove and Walls
“Hyper speed” Scrubbing Brush (2x faster than standard brushes)
Industry’s strongest pumps and finest filtration
Extra Large Top Access Fine Filter Basket (filters down to 2 microns)
Industry’s strongest pumps and finest filtration (Over 80 GPM)
Power Washing Jets loosen stubborn debris and algae
Swivel helps prevent cable tangling – 50’ Cable
Light weight
Easy Lift Handle with rapid water exit feature
External Timer capable (timer not included)
Aquabot App Compatible via Wi-Fi
2 year bumper to bumper Warranty

The 50 ft of cable makes the MRT 2500 more versatile allowing you to use it in a larger pool and the swivel will prevent cable tangling. The Power Washing Jets is another great feature found in much more expensive cleaners. These jets will shoot water out of the bottom and help loosen up dirt and debris making the MRT 2500 a beast with dirt and debris. The Hyper Scrubbing brush on back also works to loosen up dirt and debris and it will climb your pool walls and clean it up to the water line.

The top loading debris chamber also will filter down to an industry leading 2 microns, which is better than your pool’s existing filtration system. The fact that the MRT 2500 operates separately from your pool’s filtration system means that not only will your pool stay cleaner but that your filtration system will too. And the debris chambers are also very large capacity so the MRT 2500 will not have any problems with large leaf debris as well as dirt.

I like the compact size and design of the cleaner.  It operates in a very simple backwards and forwards motion with a slight tilt of the front axle to give it full coverage of your pool. For the price point the MRT 2500 is the complete cleaner and suitable for all pool surface types.

More Aquabot Cleaner:
Breeze SE (2017): https://youtu.be/a-e0QLUW-iY
Breeze SE (2018): https://youtu.be/doPllX_VbBo
Turbo T4RC Plus:  https://youtu.be/xRAqfAemwXk
Aquabot Overview Video: https://youtu.be/DSQWPtxaZU0
Benefits of a Robotic Cleaner: https://youtu.be/Zssql7VDJNQ
Aqaubot Mamba Suction Side Cleaner: https://youtu.be/NDzJC-3onx4




By David Van Brunt Swimmingpoollarning.com