Cartridge Pool Filter Cleaning Step by Step Video Guide

Cleaning a cartridge filter is a pretty straightforward process. Each is a little different but the general principle is the same. Below are some links to the tools shown in the video.

Turn off the pool equipment: Before starting the cleaning process, turn off the pool pump to ensure safety and avoid any accidents. Make sure the pool is not going to turn on and if you are unsure just turn off the breaker to the pool pump. 

Release pressure: If your pool filter system has a pressure relief valve, use it to release the pressure inside the filter. You can also simply relieve the pressure by removing the drain plug on the bottom of the filter. I suggest this method as it will also drain the water from the tank.

Open the filter: Depending on your specific pool filter model, remove the locking mechanism or unscrew the top of the filter housing to access the cartridges inside. For the quad-type filters, there is a clamp held on by a Spring Barrel Nut.

Remove the cartridges: Carefully remove the cartridge elements from the filter housing. Take note of their orientation so that you can put them back in the same position later. Most cartridges will be marked with the word “Top” on the top. 

Rinse off loose debris: Use a garden hose with a high-pressure nozzle to rinse off loose debris and dirt from the cartridges. Direct the water from top to bottom and make sure you get the pleats completely clean.

Inspect the cartridges: Take a close look at the cartridges to ensure there are no tears, holes, or damage. If you find any significant damage, it's best to replace the cartridges.

Reassemble the filter: Once the cartridges are clean and dry, carefully place them back into the filter housing, making sure they are correctly oriented as they were before.

Close the filter: Securely fasten the filter housing, ensuring there are no leaks. Apply silicone lube to the o-ring to extend the life of the o-ring and to prevent leaks. 

Turn on the pool equipment and open the air relief valve: Once everything is reassembled and secured, turn on the pool pump and check for any leaks or abnormal pressure readings. You want to open the air bleeder/ air relief valve to remove any air from the tank.

I suggest cleaning single cartridge filters every 30 days and the quad-type 4 cartridge set up every 4-6 months. 

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Multi-Tork Filter Socket Tools:

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Swimming Pool Salt System Not Working

 It’s a real downer when you take on a new account and they have a non-functioning salt system. The whole point of the SWG is to save effort on adding chlorine but many customers just flat out refuse to spend the $600-$1,000 on a new salt cell. The first order of business is to get them to purchase a new salt cell if that is the issue. But it may still have life and there are other reasons why the pool salt system is not producing any chlorine.

The salt level is a critical factor and if the salt level is too low in your pool the SWG will not be able to produce chlorine. Most systems need at least 3000 ppm of salt in the water except for the Hayward Aqua Rite and the Pentair iChlor which can operate with as little as 2600 ppm. They will not produce the full amount of chlorine at the lower salinity level but they will still function at a reduced output.

Another common mistake along these lines is that you are not running the pool long enough for the SWG to produce enough chlorine each day and that is why it is at zero when you test it. So, increase your pool's run time if that is the case. For example, if you have a 20,000-gallon pool and you run your pump for 3 hours a day, I can tell you that is not long enough to produce enough chlorine.  Increase the pool run time to at least 12 to 14 hours a day to rule out the run time as the issue.

Next, if you have a Variable Speed pump make sure you are running it at least at 2000 RPM, preferably higher for a good part of the day. At the lower RPM, the SWG will need a longer run time to produce the same amount of chlorine as a standard one-speed pump running at the full 3450 RPM. A pool with a VS pump needs to have the proper RPM as well as the proper run time each day. At 2600 RPM you will need to run the pool a lot longer to produce chlorine each day.

Another issue may be that the salt cell output is set too low for it to generate enough chlorine each day. This is one thing that I often see on my route. Some salt systems will be set at 40% output and the pool will not have chlorine week to week. The manufacturer has an output chart in the manual and this chart is usually for the salt system set at 100% production running 24 hours a day. So, if the manual says your cell will produce 1 lb. of chlorine set at 100% running 24 hours a day if you set the output to 50% and run it 24 hours it will produce ½ lbs. of chlorine. Then set at 50% output and run only for 12 hours per day will give you ¼ lbs. of chlorine each day. So I always suggest starting your cell output at 100% and then dialing it down if the pool has too much chlorine in it week to week.

Check to see if the salt cell has any calcium buildup on it. Calcium build-up will stop chlorine production right away. As the plates in the cell cake up with calcium, you will usually see a warning light on your system indicating that the cell is dirty. Simply take it off and clean it with a mixture of Muriatic Acid and water.

And last it could be as simple as not having the right amount of Conditioner in the water and the Sun is just burning off the chlorine each day. You should have a Conditioner or CYA level of 80 ppm in the water. Too little Conditioner in the pool will cause the chlorine to burn off rapidly and production cannot keep up with the amount being destroyed by the sun.

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Switching to a Saltwater Pool

If you are converting your existing pool over to a saltwater pool or having a saltwater generator installed at your new pool, adding the salt to charge the system is a pretty easy process. But there are steps you will need to take in making sure that you add the right amount of salt so the Saltwater generator will operate correctly. 

It may seem like a lot of salt toad to your pool and you may think that you are turning your pool into an ocean. But that is not the case. Most systems require 3000 ppm of salt and that may entail dumping in 10 or more 40 lbs. bags but that is nowhere near the ocean at 30,000 ppm. So rest assured that even though it looks like a lot of salt, in 20,000 gallons of water it is not that much at all.

Step 1:

The first thing you need to do is get an accurate size of how much water is in your pool. This will allow you to reach the salt level needed for your system without having you add too much or too little salt. Measure the perimeter of the pool and then use one of the common methods to get pool depth. I usually stick my pool pole in the center of the deep end to get the depth. You can use many online apps to then calculate your pool volume in gallons. It won’t be spot on but a close estimation. 

This will also allow you to purchase the right size salt generator for your pool. Each system is rated for a certain amount of gallons in the pool and you want to buy one that is right for your pool size.

Step 2:

You will want to turn the salt system off. You will want to leave it off until the salt level reaches the desired level. Refer to the manual of your system to learn how to turn it off, or simply unplug it or turn off the breaker to the salt system. 

Step 3:

You will want to get the pool’s current salinity or salt level reading. If it is a new build there will be no salt in the water but in some cases, there may already be salt in the water so you want to make sure you are starting from zero so that you don’t add too much salt to the pool. 

Step 4:

You want to set your pool to run for 24 hours to circulate the large amount f salt that you will be adding. Depending on your system you will either set your Intermatic timer to run for 24 hours by removing the “off” tripper (I remove both to prevent error) or set your Automated system to “Service Mode,” which is the 24/7 run/stop mode.

Step 5:

Balance your pool water. Make sure the chemistry is in a good range but it does not have to be perfectly balanced. Your pool should be blue and free from algae and within the range of being balanced.  

Step 6:

Now you will add the salt to your pool. You can refer to the back of the bag for your salt level  or you can use an online calculator like the https://www.poolcalculator.com/

If your pool was just plastered I suggest waiting 30-60 days for the plaster to cure before adding salt to the pool. I also suggest adding less salt than is called for. If you think your pool is 15,000 and the app calls for 9 bags of salt, add just 8 bags and then add another if needed. Maybe your pool is only 13,000 gallons and by adding 9 bags you have added too much salt. Always err on the side of caution and add less salt than more. 

Step 7:

After 24 hours you will want to test the pool’s salt level again. If the salt level is at the correct level you are done and don’t need to add more salt. If it is coming in below 3000 ppm or the level recommended by your system add more salt.

Step 8: 

Now you can turn on your saltwater generator if the desired salt level has been achieved. Now your saltwater generator will start to make chlorine for your pool. 

If you follow these easy steps you will have your pool converted over to a saltwater pool in no time at all. It is a pretty easy process.

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Summertime and Your Swimming Pool

 Out of all the seasons, it is logical that Summer Time will be the most challenging in your pool service business. Not only is it hot out there but the UV index is higher, the pools get more use and it is just plain hot out making work miserable. 

One thing that is often overlooked is the pool’s filtration system. At the beginning of each season, you need to make sure the filter is operating properly and is cleaned. I like to clean and inspect my DE and Cartridge filters in March before the season starts here in California. If the grids have tears or the cartridges are old this is the time to replace them. One of the major problems that contribute to algae and pools being unable to hold a good chlorine level is a poorly running filtration system. So, make sure the filter is clean and in good running condition.

During the Summer season, algae can be a big problem. It can bloom for several reasons, but the primary reason is not adding chlorine to the proper level. If the chlorine zeros out during the week algae can certainly bloom. So, check your chlorine level at least once a week or more, and make sure you add chlorine consistently to the pool.

If your Conditioner level, CYA level is too low the chlorine will burn off quickly due to the intense UV rays in the Summer. Try to keep your CYA level at 30-50 ppm and raise it if necessary. If the Conditioner level gets too high, over 100 ppm then the chlorine becomes less effective. In this case, you will have to keep the chlorine at 10 ppm each week just to prevent algae growth. So, adjusting the CYA level in the pool is also a critical factor in the Summer.

The water level is one thing that is often overlooked during the season and it is one thing that can turn your pool green very quickly. Older pools do not have the main drain and skimmer connected and most of the older pools cannot turn off the skimmer if the water gets too low. This means that when the water level gets below the skimmer, the pool will begin to suck air. The pump will stop running and the pool water will not circulate. So, until you add water and correct this the pool will in effect stop running for that week. In 100-degree weather, this can easily lead to algae and a green pool.

If you do see any algae in the pool you will want to attack it aggressively. Failure to do this will result in a large algae bloom. Even a small amount in the step area can bloom into algae all over the pool walls in a few days. This is because the algae will use up the chlorine in the pool which will lead to it spreading rapidly. The best defense is prevention. You can start the season with a PoolRX in the pool, use a Poly Quat 60, or add Borates to your pool to bring it to 30-50 ppm. All these steps will help prevent algae in your pool during the season.

The point here is to be proactive with your pool care in the Summer. Start with a clean filter. Keep the chlorine level up, tread algae when you see it, and fill your pool to keep the water circulating properly.

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Dolphin Ultra-Fine Filter Basket

Dolphin Ultra-Fine Filter Basket should be your go-to basket for your Dolphin cleaner in a pool with a lot of dirt. It filters down to 20 microns and is made of a very similar material to a cartridge pool filter. This basket will fit the following Dolphin models:

Dolphin ADVANTAGE, Dolphin Nautilus CC, Dolphin Proteus DX3, 

Dolphin Echo, Dolphin S100, Dolphin S50, Dolphin E10, Dolphin T15, 

Dolphin Cayman, Dolphin T25, Dolphin Active Solo, Dolphin Active 15, 

Dolphin Explorer E20, Dolphin Active 10, Dolphin Escape, Dolphin Encore, 

Dolphin E10, Liberty 200

More on the Liberty 200 in this video:

This cleaner is made for a small to medium pool which I would say is a 15,000-gallon or less body of water. Any pool 30 x 15 in length or less would be ideal. The main reason is that the Liberty 200 only runs for 1.5 hours on a full charge. I am sure later models will have larger batteries and longer run times.

The cleaning pattern is quite effective given the short run time and I wouldn’t worry about it not leaving your pool spotless each time. The debris basket is rated at 70 microns and you can also order the Dolphin Genuine Replacement Part — Fine Filter Panels (4PK) — Part Number 9991463-R4 which will filter down to 20 microns.

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SIMPLE INDUCTIVE CHARGING: With Magnetic-Connect, non-corrosive inductive charging, you get a super easy magnetic connection for walk-away charging. The powerful lithium-ion battery gives you 90 minutes of efficient cleaning for a remarkably clean pool.

IMPRESSIVE WALL CLIMBING: The LIBERTY 200 robotic pool vacuum cleaner’s powerful wall climbing capability ensures your pool floor and walls are scrubbed for an ultimate clean. Get more pool enjoyment and do less work.

ACTIVE SCRUBBING: The powerful active scrubbing brush works hard on the pool floor and walls for an incredibly clean pool. The durable brush is gentle on your pool but tough on debris.

OUTSTANDING PERFORMANCE: Dolphin pool cleaners have been effortlessly cleaning the world’s pools for over 35 years, empowering pool owners with hassle-free pool maintenance solutions. With unmatched performance, durability, and cost savings, all our Dolphin products help you get back to what matters in life — enjoying your pool with family and friends.

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Bob Lowry on Borates and Your Pool Care

Here are the proven benefits of having a Borate level of 30-50 ppm:

Lower Chlorine usage: The Borate helps reduce chlorine usage by eliminating Carbon Dioxide and also by keeping the pH stable. Chlorine last longer when the pH is right at 7.6-7.8. When the chlorine is in the ideal range the killing element in chlorine the HOCI is at the most balanced percentage so the chlorine in a pool with a pH of 7.4 is 30% more effective than in a pool with a pH of 8.0. This is a big factor in creating the safest swim environment and the borates will keep the pH much more stable and in turn, make the chlorine much more effective.

pH is stable: 

The pH won't change much in a pool with Borate in it. So, if you have a Salt Water Pool this is a must since the pH tends to rise dramatically. In fact, in a Salt Water Pool, the pH can rise to over 8.4 very rapidly. You will find yourself putting tons of acid in each week just to keep the pH below 7.8. With borates in the pool, the pH will be stable and easy to control.  It is a must for a pool with a Salt Water Generator. It also will keep your salt cell from building up calcium rapidly since it sequesters the Calcium in the water. This means the salt cell will remain clean and your salt system will run much more efficiently.

Water is more sparkling: 

The Borate is more reflective so when the sun hits the pool the water will sparkle. The fact that it sequesters calcium will give the water an added clarity and you will notice the sparkle is almost blinding. The difference is very marked and noticeable and it is a good bonus benefit of borates.

Softer and less irritating water: 

The water feels softer and doesn't burn your eyes. It also will keep your skin and hair hydrated so after swimming your skin won't be as dried out. Borax has been used for a very long time as a softener for laundry. You will find it in the laundry aisle and it makes sense that it will also make the water feel softer and prevent dry skin.

Less Algae growth: 

Boric Acid is a known Biostat. This prevents the algae cell from forming and multiplying. Thus, a pool with a Borate level between 30-50 ppm will prevent algae growth. Since borate prevents the algae cell from growing, algae blooms will be a thing of the past. No more algaecides or shocking the pool, algae just won’t grow in your pool any longer.

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Jandy SpeedSet Programming

Talk about easy Variable Speed Control! The New Speedset is worlds ahead of any standalone VS pool pump out there. It couldn’t be easier to set up and control. 

The Jandy SpeedSet controller is the next generation in VS pump control. It is the direct replacement for the Jandy JEP-R and it has many great new features.

It has a large display which comes in super handy while programming and adjusting the schedules. Compared to any pump display currently on the market the screen is 10x larger. If you don’t think the larger screen is a big deal, after using the SpeedSet you will wonder how you ever survived on those tiny slices of a screen on other pumps. 

The FlyWheel has to be the best upgrade in my opinion. Those left, right, up, and down arrow keys are a real pain on most VS pumps.  You can easily get lost in a menu and forget how to exit it. Not so with the FlyWheel. It is a dial that you spin and the menu items just scroll left or right and up or down depending on where you are in the menu.  It takes about 5 seconds to get used to and after that, you will want it on every VS Pump.

I should mention that the SpeedSet controller can be ordered mounted on the Jandy VS FloPro,  as well as their EPump and their VS PumpHP. You can get a wall-mount SpeedSet to replace an existing JEP-R as well. On the pump, you can turn the SpeedSet 4 different ways to position the screen perfectly for the best viewing. A simple counterclockwise twist is all you need to do. 

On the bottom of the SpeedSet is Automation Pass-Through Wiring which allows you to connect an automated system and use the SpeedSet to bypass it when needed. It’s a smart extra that will make controlling the pump easy if say you need to add chlorine to a pool and need it to run for 3 hours. Simply hit the “Clean” button and that is all you need to do. Or if you want to clean the filter or pump basket, hit the “Stop” button. So no need to even open the outside automated panel.

When the top lid is closed the button bar is exposed. Not to worry the buttons are 100% waterproof. But this makes it super easy to tell if the pump is working. You can also hit a button without having to open the top of the SpeedSet. The button bar has 

Stop – this turns the pump off indefinitely – lights up red.

Auto – This means the pump is in normal operation mode and will run the programmed schedule

Clean – You can set a specific run time and pump RPM and when you hit the “Clean” button it will go on for that set time and then automatically return to the programmed scheduled times. For example, you can set the “clean” button to run for “4 hours at 2800 RPM.

Buttons 1 and 2 – can also be programmed for a specific run time and speed. For example, if you wanted to use “1” as your spa button, you could put the valves in the spa position, hit “1” and program it to run for 2 hours at 3450 RPM. That way the spa gets the full RPM with a push of a button. The “2” can be programmed similarly. Then you have virtual buttons 3-8 which probably will never be used but they are there regardless. Virtual buttons 3-8 can be programmed the same way.

The SpeedSet can hold up to 10 programmed schedules. You probably will not need more than 3 but having more options is better. With the flywheel and the easy menu setups, programming a scheduled run time could not be easier.

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When to Add Salt to a Swimming Pool

Here are some reasons why you should add salt:

Digital meter shows salt level under 3000 ppm

The water temperature is over 60 degrees F

The pool surface is over 60 days old (new build or remodel plaster pool)

The saltwater cell is clean and functioning

You have a saltwater generator on your equipment

Here are some reasons why you should not add salt:

You do not have a saltwater generator attached to your pool equipment

The salt cell is dirty

The system is showing low salt – built-in salinity monitor

The pool plaster is fresh, under 2 months old

The water temperature is below 60 degrees

If you follow this basic rule you will have little issues with adding salt to a pool when it is not needed.

If the salt cell is dirty the system can give you a false low salt indication. It is because the calcium on the plates reduces the electrical current and the system may think the salinity (salt level) is low, when in fact it is not. Cleaning the salt cell will reset the system in most cases and the proper salinity reading will appear on the display after a few hours or the next day.

Using a digital salinity meter is a must. Get a good one and the more you pay the better quality the meter will be. I have several videos on them and the  LaMotte, Hach, and Oakton models are the top 3 in my book. I trust the digital meter readings over the system reading and will never add salt without first getting my separate independent reading. 

I understand that the pool builder has a two-week close-out when the pool is finished. They are not really in a rush to add salt but since they are handing the pool off they want everything to be done. So many will add salt in the first 2 weeks of the fill. In my experience waiting 30-60 days is a better idea and will eliminate issues with plaster staining and very high uncontrollable pH. As the plaster cures, there is already a high acid demand, and with the saltwater generator also raising the pH it will be hard to prevent scale from forming as the plaster cures. Not as bad as a problem in a PebbleTec, Vinyl, or Fiberglass pool but for plaster, I would wait at least 60 days before adding salt.

Some reasons why the salt cell may not be producing chlorine are that it is too small or not rated for that pool size or the CYA level is too low. It may not be a low salt level causing the issue. Also, low water temperatures under 60 degrees F in most cases will cause the salt system to stop producing.

Each SWG has different salt cell sizes. For example, the Intellichor 40 and Hayward T-Cell 15 are rated for a pool of up to 40,000 gallons. The Ichlor 30 and Jandy TruClear are rated for pools up to 30,000. The Intellichlor IC20 is for a pool of up to 20,000 gallons. Your salt cell should be rated for your pool size to be effective. If you put an IC20 in a 25,000-gallon pool it will need to run 24/7 just to be partially effective. An IC40 in a 15,000-gallon pool would be ideal with plenty of margins.

Like any other form of chlorine, the SWG is producing chlorine that needs to be protected from the harsh UV rays of the sun. Ideally, your CYA level should be 30-50 ppm but if you notice the chlorine level is still not holding you can increase the CYA to 80 ppm. If the CYA is below 30 ppm chances are your SWG will be producing chlorine at a rate that is less than the burn-off from the UV rays. Check to make sure the CYA is at alt least 30 ppm.

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Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System

The Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System is a great option for in-ground pools of up to 40,000 gallons. If you have a smaller pool, 10,000-15,000 you can also look at the Hayward - W3AQR9 AquaRite Complete Salt System for Pools up to 25,000 Gallons but honestly bigger is always better when it comes to salt systems.

A saltwater generator will automatically convert salt into chlorine, so you no longer have to worry about mixing, measuring, or handling harsh liquid or tablet chlorine. This results in silky soft pool water that is gentler on the eyes, skin, and hair, and won't fade fabrics. A great way to save time on your pool care as well!

The AquaRite is easy to install and maintain, and it comes with several features that make it a great choice for pool owners, including:

Digital display with the ability to adjust chlorine output from 0-100%

Even, consistent chlorine dispersion

Automatic cell cleaning by periodically reversing the polarity

Weatherproof enclosure and connections

NSF-certified for chlorine delivery rates and ETL safety certified

The ideal salt level for the AquaRite is between 2700-3400 ppm (parts per million) with 3200 ppm being optimal. If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in the pool and add salt according to the chart on page 5 of the owner's manual. A low salt level will reduce the efficiency of the AquaRite and result in low chlorine production. I like the fact that it can work with as little as 2700 ppm where most systems stop running at 3000 ppm.

The Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System is a great way to keep your pool clean and clear without the hassle of using harsh chemicals. It's easy to install and maintain, and it provides years of trouble-free operation.

Here are some of the pros and cons of the Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System:

Pros:

Automatically converts salt into chlorine

Silky soft pool water that is gentle on the eyes, skin, and hair

Won't fade fabrics

Easy to install and maintain

NSF certified and ETL safety certified

Overall, the Hayward W3AQR15 AquaRite Complete Salt System is a great option for pool owners who want a convenient and easy way to keep their pool clean and clear. It's a bit more expensive than some other salt chlorinators on the market, but it's worth the investment for the peace of mind of knowing that you're not using harsh chemicals in your pool.

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