Should you Close Your Swimming Pool for the Winter?

Many have asked me if they should close their pools in the winter. For some regions, it is a bit of a gray area. Technically speaking you can keep a pool open in an area where the air temperature drops to zero as long as you keep the water moving through the pipes, pump, filter, and heater. Keeping the water circulating is the key. For example in Maine where pools are closed for the winter, average winter temperatures are 25°F in the far south to less than 15°F in the northern parts. If you keep the pool pump running 24/7 you can keep your pool open all winter. 

Herein lies the problem though. In the Great Texas Freeze which occurred the week of February 11–20, 2021 many pool owners suffered damage to their pool equipment when their pumps and filters froze.  The freeze was a historic cold snap that brought record-low temperatures to some parts of the state that normally never get that cold. These pool owners just didn't close their pools in that region and left them open year-round. Temperatures dropped to as low as 6 degrees in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. 

Everything was fine since most pool pumps and timers went into "Freeze Protect mode" which kept the pool pump on and water circulating in the pool.  But then the power to the area went out. pool pumps shut off. Within 6 hours underground pipes froze. Entire pool surfaces froze. Water in pumps, valves, salt cells, filters, and heaters froze. When things began to warm back up pumps cracked, filters cracked, salt cells cracked, valves cracked and heaters started leaking from expanded seals. 

Technically you can keep your pool open in Maine in the dead of winter but if you lose power for as little as 4 hours your pipes, equipment and everything related to the pool will freeze, causing irreversible damage. That is the reason why pools are closed in these regions. To prevent damage from freezing temperatures. 

On the flip side, we do not close pools in the warmer regions because the water just does not get cold enough. If you try to close a pool in Arizona, Florida, and Southern California the pool will likely turn green and you also run the risk of having scale build up in the pool if you are not balancing the pH in a pool in a warmer region where the water stays warm.

Closing a pool is done simply because it is necessary to protect the equipment and underground pipes from freezing. If you live in a warmer climate it is not done because it is not needed. In those grey areas around the country, it is better to be cautious and close your pool, just in case freezing temperatures come your way and the power goes out. 

Rule of thumb on pool closing:

1) If you get freezing temperatures in your area during the winter for long periods (weeks and months in a row) then closing your pool is advisable. 

2) If you live in an area where freezing temperatures are rare and only happen once in a great while, you do not need to close your pool in most circumstances. Your pool pump and equipment will enter “Freeze Protect Mode” if so equipped. This is a mode that your Automated System, timer, or pool pump will enter when the air temperature drops below 37 degrees and it automatically keeps your pool pump running and the water in the pool and spa circulating. If you don’t have this protection on your equipment you can turn on your pool pump manually and run it during the freezing weather.

3) If you live in an area where the winters are mild, closing your pool is not advisable as your pool could turn green and have scaling issues due to not balancing the water during the mild winter months. 

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Upgrading Your Pool Lights to LED Lights

Changing your pool lights from a standard incandescent bulb to LED lights can be done in one or two ways. If you like your current light and don’t wish to fully upgrade to a new LED color-changing system a simple LED replacement bulb might be the way to go. 

Yes, you can simply replace incandescent pool lights with LED bulbs. LED bulbs are brighter, more efficient, and last longer than incandescent bulbs. They also offer more color and installment options. When replacing incandescent or halogen bulbs with LED bulbs, you should choose bulbs that fit into the fixture. Most pool lights use E26 bulbs, but it's best to remove the old bulb and check it before you buy a new one. 

You should only put an LED bulb in a fixture that is less than 10 years old. One problem that you may run into is that when you pull out an older light fixture to change it the cord on the back might be compromised letting water into the fixture. In that case, upgrading the entire light fixture will be necessary. 

Depending on the location of your old lights and how they are accessed, you might need to partially or fully drain the pool to safely access and replace the lights.

Access the Old Lights:

Remove the old light fixtures carefully. This might involve unscrewing them or removing any cover plates or fixtures in place.

Disconnect Wiring:

Carefully disconnect the electrical wiring from the old lights. Take note of how the wiring is connected for when you install the new LED lights.

Prepare the New LED Lights:

Check the manufacturer's instructions for any specific preparation steps required for your LED lights.

Install LED Lights:

Install the LED lights into the existing fixtures. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for securing them in place. Connect the wiring to the LED lights following the same configuration as the old lights. Typically, this involves connecting the colored wires appropriately (black to black, white to white, etc.).

Waterproofing:

Ensure that the LED lights are properly sealed to prevent water from entering the electrical components. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for waterproofing.

Test the Lights:

Turn the power back on and test the LED lights to make sure they are working properly. Check both the white and color-changing functions if applicable.

Adjust and Secure:

Secure the fixtures in place according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Restore Water and Close Access Points:

If you had to drain the pool, refill it to the appropriate level.

Here is more about the Pal light system:

If you have a regular 400-watt pool light and a 100-watt spa light and you run your pool and spa light for 4 hours one night, that is 2000 watts of electricity. Replace those with the PAL EvenGlow LED pool and spa light and since they generate only 37 watts every hour after 4 hours that is only 148 watts and a savings of 1,852 watts. I should also mention that these lights are backed by a 3-year warranty and are rated for 50,000 hours of use. So if you use these lights 4 hours a night they should last around 34 years!

The PAL EvenGlow lights will be available at your local Leslie’s Pool Supplies Retail outlet and you can have them expertly installed by Leslie’s Installation Specialist.

Here is some more about these amazing lights:

Unique lens optics creates an EvenGlow effect in the pool

No more harsh LED or Incandescent light

No more hot LED laser-like beams across the pool

Reduce shadowing and hot spots

Three-year warranty (with professional install)

Proprietary Color Touch light control

Latest in RF and WiFi technology

Infinite color selection 

Dimmability

Reliable constant output power supplies

Industry-best warranty rate

Easy retrofit to existing niches

Fits any standard 8” wet niche

Frosted lens design for EvenGlow Effect

30 watts power draw at 12vdc (12” Pool Light)

7 watts power draw at 12vdc (Smal Spa Light)

RGB with Color Touch Technology

Cool White coming soon for commercial

Stainless Escutcheon fitted with light

Replaceable hook at bottom of the light

UL Listed

The PAL EvenGlow lights are the total upgrade package for your pool and spa. I wouldn’t hesitate to go with these lights if you are thinking about upgrading your pool and spa light and the Dual Zone upgrade is a must-have.  

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

Tips on Having a Swimming Pool Built

Having a new pool built is no small project. For the amount of money that the project will cost you and the fact that it will be a permanent part of your yard for years to come - you don't want to make any mistakes along the way. Surprisingly there are no concise guides out there for you to follow to avoid costly mistakes. This series will hopefully change that and give you a blueprint for having the pool built so that you are completely happy with the project without regrets.

Choose a Design and Get at Least 3 Bids

Look online at different pool designs, visit friends and family that have a pool in their yard, check out pools in your neighborhood, etc. Do everything you can to see as many designs online and in person so that when you do call a builder you will have a good idea of what you want a bid for. Do you want a free-form pool or a more geometric design? Water features such as waterfalls or deck jets. Do you want a pool and spa combo or just a pool? You should have a good idea of all of this and of course, the builder can also help you sort out what would be best for your yard and your needs.

Now you want to set up an appointment with three different pool builders in your area. You can get more bids if you like but Mike suggests that three is sufficient. To make sure you are getting fair pricing for your project make sure all three bids are identical. Same pool size, same pool surface, similar equipment, etc. so that the prices can be compared to each other. Then you will want to make an appointment with the builder's previous clients to see the pools that have been built by that particular builder. If the builder cannot get you an appointment to see a built-out pool I would be leery of that company.

Look at the pools built by the builder you are considering and see if the result is something that looks good. There is no better way to judge a company than to see its previous workmanship. And of course, check out the reviews of each company online to see if there are any negative or bad reviews. You should be 100% confident in the builder that you accept the bid. If none of the three you received bids from feels good to you, get three more bids. There is no rush and you want this done right.

Get a Quality Pool Built and in the Right Location:

Visit some pools by the builder that were done over a year ago or even two are three years ago and see how they look. There will be some normal wear and tear but the pool should still look good in most respects. If they don't then there may be a quality issue and the builder is probably not the one you want. If the older built-out pools look fine then you may want to consider the builder for your project.

Don't feel you are asking too much by visiting past clients, you are going to invest a sizable amount of money and once the pool is completed you don't want to have any problems. Correcting a bad or low-quality pool install will cost you even more money, resources, time, and headaches so you want it done right. The builder should have no issues with you looking at his previous pools.

Location and overall functionality should be a primary consideration when you pick the pool location. Having the pool installed 4 feet from your sliding door might suit you just fine, but think resale when you are picking the spot. If you decide to sell your house the buyer might not like it as close as that and moving the pool is expensive. Try to think over all of the pros and cons of the location before you break ground on the project. I have been to too many pools where the new owner is questioning the logic of the seller in the selection of the pool location. If you plan on adding on later or building a patio this also becomes a huge factor in the pool's final location. So choosing the right spot for your pool is also factoring in the future use and functionality of the location. A competent builder will be able to also guide you in making the right location choice.

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

Polaris Spabot SB1000

I figured someone would come up with a robotic pool cleaner for spas and hot tubs one day. It has been on many spa owners' wish lists. With over 7.3 million hot tubs across the nation, this is going to be a popular item. Coming in at a retail price of $499.00 it is a pretty affordable option.

The question is of course, does it work? After all a spa/hot tub has seats, odd-shaped ridges, and small bottom areas. Robotic pool cleaners can’t clean seating areas and steps in a traditional pool so what about a spa? 

The answer is yes, the Spabot works rather effectively. It’s programmed to float to the surface and then sink back down. This random floating allows it to in effect climb into the seating area around a spa as it falls back down. With a 1-hour run time, the Spabot will cover just about every area in a spa multiple times. 

The debris canister is a good size and I believe the micron rating is pretty low. It seems to pick up fine dirt very well and leaf debris without any problem.

Here is more on the spabot.

Cleaning your hot tub has never been simpler than with the easy-to-use cordless Polaris; Spabot The first automatic robotic cleaner designed just for spas.

• The World's First Automatic Spa Cleaner - Easily and conveniently remove dirt and debris from your spa or hot tub.

• Cord-Free, Hassle-Free - Powered by a lithium-ion battery, just turn it on, let it clean, remove and recharge

• 60-Minute Cleaning Cycle - Start a one-hour cleaning cycle with the slide of a button

• Float FinishTM Retrieval - Innovative end-of-cycle buoyancy enables easy retrieval

• Easy-Clean Canister with Transparent Lid - Never touch debris again, the easy-access canister holds 1 liter of debris

• 4-Hour Charging - Simply plug Spabot into an indoor outlet between cleaning cycles

• Now You See it, Now You Don't - Rotating brushes gather debris and channel it towards the debris inlet

• Small Size. Big Results - Cleans the finest debris, like sand and silt, as well as leaves and pine needles

• Not intended for pool operation

Providing the ultimate hands-free convenience of automated cleaning, Spabot is completely cordless. Powered by a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, it cleans your entire spa or hot tub in just 60 minutes--scrubbing surfaces and collecting debris within its filter canister. Easy to use, simply start it up, set it in the spa and walk away while it does the work--once done, it floats to the surface so it can be readily removed and plugged back in to recharge for its next use.

Product Type: Spa Cleaner

Cleaner Type: Robotic

Manufacturer: Polaris

Spa Type: In-ground Spas and Above-Ground Hot Tubs

Connection: Cordless

Run Time: 60 min

Charging Time: 4 Hours

Cleaner Dimensions: 8.7" W x 11" H x 8.3" D

Cleaner Weight: 6 lbs

Packaged Weight: 8 lbs

Battery: 6.6 Ah

Input / Output: Input: 100/240V ~ 50-60Hz / Output: 12V - 2A

Cleaning Modes: Floor and Wall

Retrieval Modes: Float Finish

Debris Collection: 1L Fine Filter Canister

Spa Surface: All Spa Surfaces

Surface Cleaning Ability: Spa footwell, wall, and seats

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eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

Wind and Your Pool Service

Educating the clients on your pool service route before a major wind event is critical. You must lower their expectations or assumptions that their pool will be cleaned up in one visit. Many clients will assume that since they pay you to maintain and clean their pool you will spend 2 hours at their account to get things cleaned up. That is just an impossible expectation and with a service, agreement spelling out what they should expect in a major wind event you are off the hook.

A strategy that I implement is letting the customer know that if they can skim the surface and empty the skimmer basket I will vacuum up the pool bottom, thus speeding up the cleanup. Having a pole and leaf rake at every one of your service accounts is essential. That way the client can pitch in during a major wind event. About 80% of my current clients will skim the pool surface the day after a wind storm. This makes it easy for me to get the pool back in shape with my vacuum system.

Explain the clean-up process in the contract so that they are aware you can't spend hours each week cleaning up the pool. The Podcast goes over this and more in greater detail so listen to it for more detailed information. If you would like a copy of my one-page service contract email me at david@swimmingpoollearning.com and I will get one over to you.

Speaking of which if you don’t have a vacuum system and you service a wind-prone area, get one. There should be no reason except economic hardship preventing you from purchasing a Riptide or Bottom Feeder. A vacuum system is a real game-changer and instead of dreading the after-effects of a wind storm, you will just be mildly irritated. If you haven’t used a vacuum system you are missing out. 

For the pool service professional, you will need to set a timer for each pool for 25-30 minutes. If you spend less time at another account you can use the time for your current stop. But realistically with the short amount of sunlight in the Winter, you will not be able to complete your route each day if you spend 50 minutes to an hour at each pool. Besides that it is exhausting and you could hurt yourself by trying to do too much each day. Explain to your customers that your priority the first stop after a wind event is to skim the surface and get the pool running. 

The dirt and ash present another problem and I suggest using some type of Portable Filtration System or Portable Pump. Here in So Cal most of the pool filters are either Cartridge filters or D.E. Filters with only a Push/Pull Backwash Valve. Very few accounts have a Multi-Port Valve with a “Waste” mode where you can vacuum the pool and bypass the filter. This means that all of the dirt and ash will have to be vacuumed up and go directly into the pool filter. Then you will have to take the filter apart and clean it which takes time. Better to vacuum the pool out with a Portable Pump that is easy to build or invest in a Portable Filtration System like the PORTAVAC by Advantage Manufacturing. 

Accounts that have a Multi-Port Valve with a “Waste” mode where you can vacuum the pool and bypass the filter. This means that all of the dirt and ash will have to be vacuumed up and go directly into the pool filter. Then you will have to take the filter apart and clean it which takes time. Better to vacuum the pool out with a Portable Pump that is easy to build or invest in a Portable Filtration System like the PORTAVAC by Advantage Manufacturing. 

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

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Shop at Leslie's: Leslie’s Pool Supplies has been a do-it-yourselfer and pool trade professionals' trusted partner since 1963, providing quality products and services to make pool care easy and solutions and expertise to do it right. http://lesliespool.com/?utm_medium=referral&utm_source=spll&utm_campaign=spll

WaterGuru Sense S2 Now with 5-Test Factors

There are a few things that set the WaterGuru Sense 2 apart from other smart pool monitors and even the Sense S1. The Sense S2 now does 5 test factors – Free Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and CYA. It also will monitor the water temperature and the flow of the pool as well.

The Sense S2 is designed to replace your skimmer lid so that there are no floating monitors in the pool, and it stays hidden in your skimmer. New for the Sense S2 is an included floating ring so if you have a spa or lap pool, above-ground pool, or any other body of water without a dedicated standard skimmer lid you can now simply “float” the Sense S2 to get the readings. Note that the pool flow will not be monitored in that case or at least the reading will be very low. 

There is also no monthly subscription fee for the device. The C5 cassette lasts up to 4 weeks with one water test per day (although you can do a test on-demand at any time with a press of a button)

To order the WaterGuru Sense S2: https://www.amazon.com/WaterGuru-Sense-Smart-Pool-Monitor/dp/B0BT7BYJQ3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=waterguru+s2&qid=1691447376&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%253Aamzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1#customerReviews&_encoding=UTF8&tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=a6274099e1f902e672e4affc52edc8ea&camp=1789&creative=9325

Visit their website to learn more: https://waterguru.com/

Is the WaterGuru accurate? In my testing, it matched up very well against the PoolLab 2.0 and my ColorQ 2x Pro 9 photometer. For various reasons, you will not get the test results to match up exactly except maybe in the lab. Each device takes a water sample from a different part of the pool, even right next to each other you will not get exact results. They also use different technologies to read and determine the results. But within a margin of error the reading all lined up pretty well together.

What I like about the device is that it does not require a monthly or yearly subscription. You just purchase the unit and just order cassette refills when needed, It is also backed by a one-year replacement warranty. 4 “C” batties will also need to be replaced and the app keeps track of the battery life for you. So a very affordable device.

Currently, if you wish to purchase a 3-pack of C5 cassettes you will have to contact WaterGuru directly. They sell a 3-pack with one C5 cassette and two C2 cassettes (chlorine and ph) only. I prefer the C5 cassette for the 5-test factors. 

The app from WaterGuru is excellent. I like the displayed readings, and the reading history, and the app also recommends treatment to get the water parameters back in line. It’s actually a great app. 

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Upgrading Your Pool Equipment

Of course, before you replace any of your pool equipment you should have a pool pro assess it thoroughly as sometimes a simple repair is all you need. He or she can also advise you on if you need to replace something and with what particular brand.

The pool pump can be the highest energy hog in your house, passing your Air Conditioner and Refrigerator just by the sheer amount of hours it runs each day. If you have a 1 ½ or 2 HP pump installed and you run it 8 hours per day, not to get into complicated conversions of kWh (Kilowatt Hours) and how you are charged each month by your Electric Company, just imagine it as having on Twenty 100 watt light bulbs every hour it is running. That is a lot of electricity each day and if your bill is tiered by usage, meaning the more you use the more you are charged, your bill can get very high very quickly. On average a pool pump will be about 40% of your total electricity bill each month.

The best way to save money is to cut into your monthly electricity bill and that is exactly what a VS pump does. Simply put, your standard pump runs at 3450 RPM (Rotations Per Minute) which is about 1800-2000 watts. A VS Pump can be set to different RPMs and at every lower RPM, the total wattage used is lowered. So just lowering the VS Pump down to 2100 RPM, cuts the watts down to 685 watts. At 2100 RPM the water will appear to flow just as strong as a standard pump running at 3450 RPM. Cut it down even lower to 1200 RPM and you are down to 165 watts. So instead of having twenty 100-watt light bulbs running you only have a little over one light bulb running each hour. This is the reason your electric bill can be cut almost in half by simply installing a VS Pump.

If your pool filter has been struggling all season it is time to look at upgrading it. By struggling I mean the water had issues with being cloudy or you had more algae blooms than normal this season. Poor filtration is the cause behind 80% of your pool problems so if you have an undersized or poorly running pool filter it is time to upgrade.

I am a big believer in bigger is better so I suggest going with the largest filter your system can handle. If you have a 15,000-gallon pool I wouldn’t go with anything smaller than a 300 sq ft Cartridge Filter, a 60 sq ft DE filter, or a 350 lbs Sand Filter. That is a lot of filters for that size pool but you will notice right away an increase in flow as well as water clarity. The cartridge has more square footage of filtration area so I always suggest a Cartridge Filter over DE and Sand and the larger the Cartridge Filter the better. 

A gas heater will be one of the biggest investments on your equipment pad by far. Once you go with a gas heater or heat pump you can’t interchange those. The cost of running a dedicated 230-volt line or the cost of running a natural gas line cancels out any benefits of switching from a gas heater to a heat pump or vice versa. 

You also can’t go cheap on a gas heater and get a 200,000 BTU model if you currently have a 400,000 BTU model. Going with less BTU means the heating time will increase and sometimes double. So any money you save upfront you will lose because now you have to run your pump and heater longer to heat your pool or spa. 

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LevelSmart Wireless Autofill by H2Flow Controls

 I’ve been using the LevelSmart auto-fill for almost 10 years and it is a great product that works as described. Recently H2flow Controls took over the production and distribution. They are the maker of the popular FlowVis Flow  Meter.

Here is more about the LevleSmart

Advanced Wireless Autofill Technology: LevelSmart brings you cutting-edge wireless autofill technology, ensuring hassle-free water level management for your pool, spa, tank, or any water feature. Say goodbye to manual filling and enjoy automated convenience.

Wireless Convenience: With its wireless functionality, the LevelSmart system eliminates the need for complicated wiring installations. Enjoy the convenience of wireless communication between the sensor and valve controller, making installation a breeze.

Reliable and Accurate: Level Smart pool water leveler ensures reliable and accurate water level management. Its advanced technology and precise sensors deliver accurate readings, preventing overfilling or underfilling of your water feature.

REFILLING PROCESS: The auto-fill mechanism starts transferring fluid from a supply source such as a tank or pipeline to the container. The control unit monitors the filling process and can adjust the flow rate or stop it when the desired fluid level is reached. Whether you have a pool, spa, pond, tank, or water feature.

Energy-Efficient Operation: The levelSmart wireless autofill sensor system is designed to operate efficiently, minimizing energy consumption. It intelligently controls the valve controller, ensuring optimal performance while conserving energy.

How It Works: The LevelSmart Sensor wakes up every 30 minutes to check the current water level of your pool, spa, water feature, or tank and then wirelessly communicates the information to the Valve Controller. If the current water level is measured below the set level, the Valve Controller will then open the Valve for 7 minutes. The Valve Controller will turn off the Valve after 7 minutes as a failsafe against overfill. Again, in 30 minutes, it will check the water level.

If you are looking for an affordable way of installing an autofill the LevelSmart is a great option. Easy to install and highly effective.

 

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

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Rookie Pool Filter Issues

Each of the three filter types is vastly different in how they work but they all essentially do the same job. D.E. is always going to give you the best filtration with cartridge a close 2nd and sand a distant 3rd. But a sand filter makes up for that in how easy it is to maintain and operate whereas a D.E. filter can be a real pain.

D.E. Filters

Best filtration down to 3-5 microns

Uses Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) or Perlite to coat the grids

Quad cartridge-type filters and Perflex (Bump Filters) are available 

Backwashing in between cleanings is a plus

Cleaning them can be a real pain

Cities may fine you up to $10,000 for D.E. on the street

Cartridge Filters

Filter down to 10-20 microns

Easy to clean – simply take the lid off and hose them off

Bigger is better and the 4-cartridge types are my preferred version

Can’t backwash in between cleaning

Offer the largest filtration area in square feet. 

Easy to maintain

Sand Filters:

Filter down to 30-40 microns

Easy to use

Backwash when PSI goes up by 10 PSI from clean PSI

No need to take apart and clean

Sand can last for years and sometimes over a decade

Can have water quality issues due to the inability to filter down to a finer micron

Preferred filter for Commercial application and dirt-prone areas

Overall I think the filter size is a bigger factor in water quality than the filtration type. Here is a good example of this from my pool route. A customer had a 25,000-gallon pool with a 36 sq ft D.E. filter on it. We upgraded his D.E. filter with a 420 sq. ft. cartridge filter. The flow had increased so dramatically that we had to divert half of the return flow to the attached spa so that the pool wasn’t like swimming in the ocean! The flow increased dramatically and all the issues I had with the pool disappeared overnight. So upgrading to a larger filter can really move the needle if your pool is experiencing water quality issues.

So how would you get a good size comparison between the three filter types? I think you have to work off of a ballpark figure since all of them filter the water in a different way. Here is the best guess chart for you:

36 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to a 200 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 150-200 lbs. Sand Filter

48 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to 320 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 250-300 lbs. Sand filter

60 sq. ft. D.E. Filter is equal to 420 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 350-400 lbs. Sand Filter

100 sq. ft. Quad D.E. Filter is equal to a 520 sq. ft. Cartridge Filter and 450-500 lbs. Sand Filter

Since a D.E. Filter uses Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.) the filtration area is very small but highly effective. In fact, D.E. Filters can filter down to 3-5 microns making it the best filtration as far as microns go. A Cartridge Filter can filter down to just 15-20 microns and a Sand Filter down to 30-40 microns. So if you are just comparing filters by how well they filter down D.E. is the winner. If you are looking at the sheer filtration area then the Cartridge Filter is the clear winner. With filtration areas of over 500 sq. ft. nothing compares to it. But since it uses a cloth basically to filter, even though the surface area is greater it doesn’t filter as efficiently as a D.E. Filter.

For ease of use, a Sand Filter can’t be beaten. All you need to do when it gets dirty is backwash it and of course, change the sand every few years. But you don’t need to take it apart and clean it every few months, nor do you need to recharge it every time you backwash it. The sand that is in there stays in there and you couldn’t ask for an easier filter to maintain. If you are looking mainly for ease of use then a Sand Filter should be your first choice.

Each filter type has its good points and its drawbacks. There probably is no perfect choice but if you go with the largest filter for your pool based on the gallons of water, the better off you will be. The larger filter allows for a better flow rate, better overall filtration, and better water quality. Although the upfront cost may be more it will pay for itself over the years in time and fewer chemicals used to maintain your pool. Think about the time you will save with a larger filter in cleaning the filter and also the energy cost as you can run the pool less with a larger filter. And finally, with a larger filter, you will not struggle to keep the chemistry balanced and therefore will use less shock and algaecide over the years.  So a larger filter is a win-win across the board.

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