Some Tips For Dealing with Heavy Debris Swimming Pools

If you have a pool that gets a lot of leaf debris in it each week or if you service pools that have heavy debris, there are a few things you can do to make it at least manageable. I will go over some of the things that I think will help you the most with a heavy debris pool.

This sounds simple and it is probably the thing that will help the most, but it is one thing many customers do not want to do. Simply, trim the trees and keep them trimmed back every season. Trimming the trees around the pool can go a long way in eliminating excessive leaf debris. If you haven’t had your trees trimmed in years, it is probably way overdue. Trimming the trees get rid of all the leaf debris that would fall off into the pool over time and will also prevent a lot of the leaves that would fall in from overhanging branches. I have had many clients also just take a tree or several trees out because managing the debris was a losing battle. But simply trimming the trees around the pool will help.

A device that I really love and which works surprisingly well is the PoolSkim. It is a simple device that you connect to one of your pool’s return lines and it acts as a secondary skimmer. You will need to have 1 ½” threaded return lines to connect the PoolSkim but once connected it uses the return jet to trap debris into a bag. Amazingly you will see an 80% or more drop in the total leaf debris and not only on the surface but on the bottom as well. The PoolSkim will pick up the leaves before they have a chance to drop to the bottom of the pool.

To learn more about the PoolSkim: https://youtu.be/BLtN702NrJQ

Once the debris falls to the bottom of the pool a conventional manual vacuum attached to your pool system will usually not be effective. The debris is usually too large for the vacuum head. The cheapest thing you can use to pick up the leaf debris is a Leaf Bagger or Leaf Master. This device is designed to use water pressure to push debris into a large bag on top. They work surprisingly well. You would simply attach a garden hose to the Leaf Master, attach the Leaf Master to your standard pool pole and drop it to the pool bottom. Turn on the garden hose and watch the debris be blasted into the bag on top. Very effective and easy to use.

To learn more about the Leaf Master: https://youtu.be/KT4Yo2H4EY4

If you do service for a living the Leaf Master is great, but to really maximize your time out there you are better off investing in a Vacuum System. This is a device that has been around for about 15 years that works off of the same concept of a Leaf Master but on steroids. It is powered by a 30 lbs. thrust motor, think powerboat and is powered by a large battery, much like the ones found on boats and power wheelchairs. You can typically run a vacuum system for hours before recharging the battery. This means you can vacuum multiple heavy debris pools quickly and save tons of time on your route. These are very handy for wind prone areas like mine where the Santa Ana winds make a mess of everything from October through February.

There are a few popular vacuum system and I have videos on the three that I use.

Riptide Vacuum System: https://youtu.be/7G0WBEmc6fs

Power Vac: https://youtu.be/y9ORwr_DQtI

Bottom Feeder: https://youtu.be/XmX24Ggszv4

A vacuum system is a big investment for sure with prices starting at $1,000 and going up to $1,700 but in the long run, they will pay off. Even if you are a homeowner with a heavy debris pool a vacuum system is the way to go over spending the money on a Robotic or Pressure Side Cleaner. For about the same cost you can purchase a Power Vac or Riptide with a battery case and vacuum your pool with ease each week. Something to consider if your pool is trashed each week with debris.

A pool that gets a large amount of debris each week can be a real pain to keep clean. But with the right equipment, you can make quick work of it.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Primate 2X Carbon Fiber 8-16 Ft Pool Pole - Weighs just 2 lbs!

Primate 2X (8 x 16 ft) Telescoping Pool Pole is the latest edition to the line-up of the Primate Carbon Fiber Pool Poles. If you use a standard 2-piece pole on your pool route, the Primate 2X pole would be a great fit for you. The Carbon Fiber makes it extremely durable and light which is a perfect combination for a professional pool pole.

Here is more from Primate Pool Tools:

The P2X is the newest edition to our carbon fiber service pole series. It is identical to its brother the P3X in strength, weight, and durability and features our flagship lever lock mechanism.

However, this version is a 2-part pole for those who would prefer a traditional 8 x 16 ft service pole. 

Specs:

Measurements: Collapsed length – 96″, fully extended – 184″

Weight: 2 lb. 4 oz

Materials: Carbon fiber tubing with fiberglass reinforcement at stress and wear points.

The 2X pole is almost the same length as the 3X pole when fully extended. The 3X will extend to 15’ 7” and the 2X pole fully extended is 15’ 4” so the difference is pretty slight. If you are wondering the 8 x 16 ft Power Pole extends to just about the same length as the 2X Primate Pole.

This pole was specifically designed for the service techs who prefer the 8 x 16 ft pool poles.

Another main difference is that the 3X will collapse down to 6 ft making it a very compact pole. The 2X only collapses down to 8 ft so it is not as compact but weighs the same 2 lbs. 4 oz. It just feels a bit heavier because of the weight distribution. If you already use an 8 x 16 ft pool pole your will really like the 2X pole. I find it convenient to have just two pole sections, although I am a big fan of the tri-pole configuration. But I know the 3-piece pole does not appeal to everyone.

The fact that this pole weighs just a little over 2 lbs. is the game-changer here. I have a bad back and a bad wrist and using these carbon fiber poles has really been a blessing. It may not seem like much going from a 3 lbs. pole to a 2 lbs. pole but it does make a pretty big difference throughout the day. After one week with the 2X Primate Pole, you will certainly notice that your back and wrists feel a lot better. Skimming and brushing are much easier and just carrying your stuff back and forth is much easier.

The price point may be prohibitive to some. I always say get the best equipment and since it is a tax write off anyway, why not? But the pole does retail for $219 and if you are a member of my Coaching Group you do get $20 off. It is not the fact that they are making a ton of money off of each pole, the price of the Carbon Fiber material and the labor to have each pole handspun here in the USA makes the price point higher than your standard aluminum pool pole.

The fact that it is made from Carbon Fiber means that the pole should outlast any aluminum service pole. The Carbon Fiber won’t make it indestructible, but it is 3X stronger than aluminum and the front is reinforced with fiberglass.

If you wanted to extend the pole to make it longer for Commercial accounts or for those residential pools that require a longer pole, Primate sells 6 ft and 8 ft snap-on extensions called the Primate “X” which are also carbon fiber and will extend the 2X pole to 21 ft or 23 ft depending on which the extension you purchase. You can also use another extension to take the pole to 30 ft.

To learn more and to order: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/primate-3x-carbon-fiber-pool-pole

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

Tips on Draining Your Swimming Pool

Draining your swimming pool sounds simple enough. But there are many things to be aware of and some things that you overlook could cost you thousands of dollars and could cause potential damage to your pool.

The only in-ground pool types that you can safely drain are plaster/cement and Pebble Tec pools. If you drain a drop-in fiberglass pool down the walls may collapse and the pool can be damaged. If you drain in an in-ground vinyl pool the liner can separate from the wall and this will severely damage the pool to the point where you will need a new liner. The drop-in Fiberglass Pool and an in-ground Vinyl Pool should only be drained by a company the specializes in them. Otherwise, you can potentially damage these types of pools by draining them down.

The first thing to check is how your city looks at pool draining. Most cities in every region ban draining your pool down directly into the gutter outside in the street. Here in my area if you drain a green pool or a blue pool directly into the street in front of your house you will get cited and the fines can range from $5,000 to $10,000. A steep price to pay for not following the city rules.

The best place to drain a pool down is directly into the sewer line. Locating the serer line on the property can be the hard part. If the customer has never had his mainline snaked by a plumber, they may not know where it is even located. You are looking for a black pipe with a square cap that will fit an adjustable wrench. Usually, it is 3 inches or more in diameter. I find some right behind where the kitchen sink is located on the house. Sometimes they are next to a bathroom. Seen a few just on the side of the house. Mine happens to be in my garage floor covered with a metal cap. Some may be covered up by bushes or even dirt if it is set low enough.

One trick if you cannot locate the sewer line is to use the washing machine waste line. This also goes directly into the sewer. If the washing machine is in a downstairs room or the garage, simply remove the waste line and insert your pool hose, making sure it is deep enough to stay in and not fall out. Now you can drain the pool down into the sewer line through the washing machine’s waste line.

You also do not want to drain the pool directly into the yard around the pool. This may sound like a no-brainer, but it may seem convenient to just let the water run into the dirt around your pool area. The problem with this is that you are putting 15,000 or 20,000 gallons of water directly into the soil around your pool, raising the water table – meaning the ground is getting saturated with water and once the pool is empty the weight of the water is no longer holding the pool down. If the water under the pool is very wet, the pool may simply lift and pop out. This is called pool pop-out which is rare but draining the water into the soil around the pool could cause this.

Speaking of pools popping out, it is extremely rare. The ground will need to totally saturated with water and this can only happen if you drain the pool into the soil or if you have some serious rain, 4-6 inches in a short period of time. The pool shell is extremely heavy with all of the gunite and rebar so it is not a common experience. A pool builder in Florida constructed over 2,000 pools and only 2 pools ever popped out. Both pools were empty after the gunite and there was hurricane type rainfall. In most areas, you should not be concerned about the pool popping out.

One concern when the pool is empty is the ambient temperature. If you drain a pool in 95-100 degree weather and leave it empty for more than 24 hours there is a chance the Sun can damage the exposed plaster surface. After refilling you may notice cracking and chipping of the plaster. This is due to the Sun exposure and if the plaster is older or in poor shape you risk damaging it by draining the pool on a very hot day. You also do not want to drain a pool that his chips and cracks in it to begin with. This will lead to more chipping and cracking.

If you are in doubt, I would have someone who specializes in draining pools look at your pool first to evaluate it. Partial draining to lower the CYA or the salt content is common and doesn’t present much of an issue. Just be sure to drain it directly into the sewer line to avoid potential fines from your city.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

eXact iDip Professional Test Kit

The eXact iDip® Professional Test Kit is one of the most underrated Photometer/Digital Test Kits on the market today. The concept is a bit complicated and I can see why most pool pros and homeowners pass on it. After using it and testing the kit I can say it is extremely easy to use and very accurate. So accurate that it is EPA approved for the Free and Total Chlorine Tests. The Professional Test Kit would be perfect for Commercial Pool use as well as Residential Pool use.

Let me try to take the mystery out of the eXact iDip Kits. It is a photometer that reads the color released on the pre-measured test strip. Other photometers use reagents or pills but the concept is the same. The photometer will read the light spectrum and give you a digital readout of the test factor you are doing at that moment. The eXact iDip is very accurate when done correctly.

It also links via Bluetooth with the downloadable app and you do all the testing from the app on your phone or device. The test results can be saved and also emailed to yourself or your customer. The one negative and the aspect that leads to confusion is that only the Chlorine, Alkalinity and pH test comes free included in the app. Additional test parameters will need to be purchased and downloaded in-app at $4.99 each or as a bundle (Pool Bundle) for $8.99. This is a onetime purchase so if you want to test for the CYA or Calcium Hardness you would need to purchase those test parameters for the app. There are over 40 test parameters available.

Once you purchase the test parameter for say, Copper, you would then need to order the Copper test strips.  Now the eXact iDip can test for Copper going forward as long as you have the test strips. Once the test parameter is purchased you have unlimited use of it. Should the test parameters all be free? I think that would help sell the product but it is the decision of the parent company Industrial Test Systems and not mine. You would purchase the test parameters and test strips that you need and truthfully you don’t need all 40 plus. Besides Copper, I would suggest Iron, Phosphates, and Nitrates give yourself a well-rounded tester.

The pH+ is a pretty nice digital water tester. It can do pH, Conductivity, TDS, Salinity and water temperature. If you purchase the optional ORP probe you can swap out the pH probe and also record the ORP. It is a very versatile and accurate digital tester and together with the eXact iDip it makes the Pro-Test Kit a real winner. The number of test factors that these two testers can do will take your water testing to a new level.

The coolest feature is that with the reading from the iDip and pH+ the app will give you the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) reading by extracting the results from the test factors recorded from your water sample. This is a great way to check to see if the water is corrosive or scale forming. This alone makes this test kit by far the most comprehensive one on the market today.

To order the Pro-Kit and save 15% use this promo code: SPLEARNIDIP

Order here: https://sensafe.com/exact-idip-pool-professional-test-kit/

For the Starter Kit order here with Promo code to save 15%: https://sensafe.com/exact-idip-pool-Starter-kit/

Here is more about the eXact iDip from the manufacturer:

“The eXact iDip® Professional Test Kit is the latest generation test kit that combines two state of the art water quality test instruments. The first is the revolutionary Level 1 NSF/ANSI-50 Certified eXact iDip® Smart Photometer System which integrates patented 2–way wireless communication with any compatible iOS or Android smart device and has the potential to test over 40 water parameters. The second is the NEW eXact® pH+ Smart Meter system which capitalizes on electrochemistry technology combined with Bluetooth connectivity.

Pre-configured kit comes with exactly what is needed to start testing (excluding app software). Packed in a rugged and durable plastic case with secure fasteners and padded compartments. Compatible with iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch with the minimum iOS system version 9.0 and Android version 5.0 with Bluetooth® 4.0.

Details:

Standard navy blue plastic carrying case w/ Foam included

eXact iDip® 525 Photometer

eXact pH+ Smart Meter System

pH 4 & pH 7 buffer solution pouches

Cleaning brush

Acrylic Calibration Key

Instruction manual

25 tests of each

Total Alkalinity, pH, Free Chlorine (DPD-1), Combined/Total Chlorine (DPD-3), Calcium Hardness, Cyanuric Acid, Conductivity, TDS, Salinity, and Temperature

Free downloadable app with pre-installed tests: pH, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Total Alkalinity. Additional test parameters will need to be purchased and downloaded in-app at at $4.99 each or as a bundle (Pool Bundle) for $8.99”

 Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Swimming Pool Acid Wash Tips

Doing an Acid Wash for the first time can be challenging but there are some things you can do to make it go smoothly. The first thing you need to do is to assess the pool to see if an Acid Wash is even the proper thing to do. By this I mean, maybe the pool needs more than an Acid Wash and will need to be resurfaced.

If the plaster has cracks and chips in it already, an Acid Wash will make things worse. There will be more chipping and bigger chunks of plaster will start to come off once the pool is refilled. A Pebble Tec pool with pebbles coming off or cracks is a sign that an Acid Wash should not be done. This will make the Pebble Tec surface worse and not better.

You also want to be careful not to drain a pool down if the outside air temperature is above 90 degrees. This can also cause the plaster to chip, but not until you refill the pool. Sun exposure at that temperature will weaken the old plaster and the chipping will appear over time. So it would be optimal to schedule the Acid Wash offseason when the weather is mild.

The Acid Wash mix is the most important element of the Acid Wash. Here are the products that you need for a successful acid wash. You will need 31.45% Muriatic Acid mixed with water in a 2 to 1 water to acid mix. Bio-Dex Plaster White ‘n Brite to help thicken up the acid solution so that it runs smoothly down the walls of the pool and to reduce the acid fumes. Bio-Dex AquaDex 50 Stain-Off which helps to remove iron and other metal staining from the surface. If you use this Acid Wash mix you will have great results and the plaster or Pebble Tec will look as good as new!

You can prep the pool to remove some of the calcium build up on the tile with the Bio-Dex Protect-All-Supreme which will require you to raise the water level over the pool tile calcium line, pour in 1 or 2 gallons of the Protect-All-Supreme into the pool and then run the pool for 24-48 hours. In most cases this is probably not something that most customers will opt to do since almost all of the acid washes I have done were in pools that needed to be drained straight away. But it is a part of the treatment and something that you can do as the first step.

Here are the detailed instructions from Bio-Dex on how to do an Acid Wash the Bio-Dex way:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DySSQfRRvUU00yqGC09EQvYVsrPkZV1y

I modified their method because it calls for mixing everything in a 5-gallon bucket and the pouring it down the sides. But I have always done my acid washes using a Water Pot as I find this to be the easiest and most effective method. So in the video, I show you the Watering pot mixture also.

Acid Wash Tips:

Always wear protective gear as the fumes and acid are hazardous.

The The first thing you should know when you go to do an Acid Wash is that the results cannot be predicted. I can look at a pool now and pretty much predict the outcome. But each pool is different, and results vary.

You also, do not want to drain a pool when the water table is high- basically if you have 3-6 inches of rain coming your way, do not drain a pool as it could potentially pop-out. You also don’t want to drain the water into an area around the pool. The ground can absorb the water, and this can also create a situation where the pool can pop-out. This is rare and something you really don’t need to worry about. You of course only want to Acid Wash a plaster of Pebble Tec pool and never acid wash a Fiberglass pool.

If the pool has heavy calcium staining on the surface, organic and metal staining can be trapped under the calcium. You can check for calcium before draining the pool simply by feeling the pool surface.

If it feels very rough like sandpaper, chances are there is a lot of calcium build up on the surface. Before doing the Acid Wash you will need to power sand the pool surface. You can rent a power sander at Home Depot and then sand down the entire pool surface prior to the Acid Wash. During the Acid Wash if you notice the staining is not lifting off, take some sandpaper and rub the area. Then pour the acid mix over the area again. If the stain lifts then you know there is a coat of calcium build-up on the surface and you will have to power sand the entire pool.

Never use just straight acid on the surface. This will etch and damage the surface and will create streaking of the plaster. If the stain is not coming off calcium is probably the issue and not the acid mix.

The basin in the deep end is very critical. I always add Soda Ash to the basin and leave the Sump Pump (Submersible Pump) running so that the acid running off the walls does not pool up and stain the plaster. If this happens, once the pool is filled you will see a discolored ring around the deep end of the pool. So, keep the basin filled with Soda Ash or Baking Soda to neutralize the acid as it runs into the deep end basin and out through the Sump Pump.

If you follow these tips your Acid Wash will turn out great and your pool will have a new lease on life.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Pool Blaster Hydro 500: Amazing Suction and Performance!

I must say that I am impressed by the New Hydro 500 cordless battery-operated cleaner by Water Tech. I have used and tested many Water Tech devices and the Hydro 500 was surprisingly powerful! The large debris chamber makes the old internal bag cleaners seem small in comparison. Here are some of the features of the Hydro 500 from Water Tech.

The unit will run up to 45 minutes on a full charge. Featuring a reusable Xtreme Multi-Layer Filter and large debris chamber, the Hydro 500 vacuums all types of debris including leaves, twigs, sand, and dead algae. 

The Hydro 500 comes complete with a 10.50-inch vacuum head and a smart charger which turns from red to green when the unit is fully charged. Simply attach the unit to a pool pole, turn the unit on and you are ready to vacuum.

To purchase on Amazon.com: https://amzn.to/2H1GC1Z

•SKU# -26051SL
•Lithium Powered, fully rechargeable in 4 hours
•Up to 45 minutes run time
•Push-button ON/OFF switch
•Includes (1) Reusable Xtreme Multi-Layer Filter 
•Includes 4 Piece sectional pool pole
•Vacuum Head Width: 10.50”
•Quickly removes all debris, leaves, sand,
and dead algae
•Cordless, no hoses needed
•Attaches to any standard
telescopic pool pole
•Warranty: 1 Year Limited

I really like the power of this unit. The suction is pretty amazing, and it picks up dirt and leaves very well. The soft flex vacuum head is much like the one on their Pool Blaster Max unit and it does great in corner areas and has a very wide cleaning path. The new design with the large debris chamber and filter cone allow for continuous use without the cleaner losing suction. This allows you to use the Hydro 500 for longer vacuuming times without having to stop and empty a debris bag. I find that the cleaner also picks up dirt very well. The filter cone will trap most of the dirt and allow you to use the cleaner to pick up sand and dirt as well as leaf debris.

The Hydro 500 is shipped with 4 small plastic pole sections that you can assemble to make a short 5 ft pole. The included pole sections will allow you to vacuum your above ground fiberglass spa with ease and you don’t need a separate pool pole. But you can also use your standard pool pole with the Hydro 500 so it can be used to vacuum regular in-ground pools as well as spas and above ground pools. The pole easily attaches to the handle on top making vacuuming very easy to use.

The game-changer for me is that the Hydro 500 is completely water-sealed. There is no need to open up a battery compartment to charge the cleaner. Simply plug in the included adapter to the prongs on back, and it will charge the internal battery completely in less than 4 hours. No more worrying about O-rings or the seal failing on the cleaner. The average run time of the cleaner is 45 minutes which is a very good amount of vacuuming time for any rechargeable device.

If you are looking for a compact and powerful battery-operated vacuum, the Hydro 500 would be a great choice.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://poolmandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html

 – A list of all of my videos.

The 3 Best Suction Side Cleaners are all the Same!

When Hayward acquired the PoolCleaner form Poolvergnuegen a few years back I had a suspicion that they would use the patented parts in their other pool cleaners. I was correct and Hayward used the V-Flex turbine from the PoolCleaner in their Navigator and Pool Vac cleaners. What I didn’t see coming was the duplication of the PoolCleaner model into the Hayward AquaNaut and the Hayward Phoenix cleaners. This has lead to some confusion in the industry so this article will try to clear things up.

All three cleaners are the exact same cleaner. That is it. Just a different shell and a different name. All the internal and external parts are exactly the same, except for the different shell design and color scheme. Hayward did not want to lose the PoolCleaner Poolvergnuegen brand name that they acquired and rightly so. The Poolvergnuegen had a big following at the time and it was a very popular cleaner for the pool service guys around the country. The main problem for Hayward then was how do they offer rebates and incentives on a cleaner that didn’t carry the Hayward name?

Since Hayward owned the Copywrite on the Aquanaut name but didn’t have a cleaner in development for that brand name, they decided to just use the PoolCleaner as their newest cleaner and rebranded it the Aquanaut. There was the talk of killing off the Poolvergnuegen brand but Hayward decided to keep it and compete against themselves. The Hayward Navigator is the number one selling pool cleaner followed closely now by the Aquanaut and PoolCleaner. It was smart of Hayward to keep both names and market the cleaners to different segments of the market.

Leslie’s Pool Supplies always likes to have their own version of a cleaner to sell to their customers and Hayward obliged by putting the PoolCleaner into another body and calling it the Phoenix, which is only sold by Leslie’s Pool Supply. So now there are three versions of the same cleaner that all look distinctly different from the outer shell.

Now let me go over a few points that I think make this the best suction side cleaner on the market today.

No one likes to repair their pool cleaner every year or every 2 years. After paying $400 for a cleaner we don’t want to see it sitting on the bottom not moving. Poolvergnuegen was known for the durability of the PoolCleaner and it is extremely long-lasting. You will not have to change any of the parts on these cleaners for at least 5 years. With the exception of the rubber tires which wear out every two years. I have some PoolCleaner now that I haven’t had to open in over 8 years. And when it comes time to rebuild the cleaner Hayward makes a kit for it that takes 5 minutes to install and will essentially give you a new cleaner minus the hoses. You won’t find a better built cleaner than the PoolCleaner.

The patented V-Flex Turbine allows the PoolCleaner to pick up large debris without getting clogged or jammed. A pile of leaves will still stop this cleaner, but compared to other cleaners that are stopped by a tiny pebble, the PoolCleaner is unmatched. It is also a geared type cleaner so it won’t get stuck in the step areas or corners of your pool. It will climb the walls partially and is not designed to climb to the waterline like the Zodiac MX-8 or Pentair Rebel. This is not really a negative since 90% of the dirt is on the bottom and 60% of it is in the deep end of the pool.

It also features a patented swivel to prevent the hoses from coiling around and twisting and tangling the cleaner. This is an important feature with a geared type cleaner. If the swivel is not working, the cleaner will get tangled up on itself over time. This will happen with the Pentair Rebel and Pentair Warrior as well as with the older Hayward Navigator cleaners.

Bottom line, drop one of these in your pool and it will be spotless every day. It works that well.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook

YouTube Video Index: http://pool

mandave.blogspot.com/2014/03/swimming-pool-tips-reviews-how-to-video.html – A list of all of my videos.

Best Swimming Pool Acid Wash Results: The Acid Mix is Critical

An Acid Wash is a great way to renew your pool’s overall look without re-plastering it. The acid mix will take off a layer of the plaster and if done correctly with the right mixture, it will also remove 95% of the metal stains and other staining. That is one reason I use the Bio-Dex products when I do my Acid Washes. Their products actually do what they say, and you can see the stains coming right off the surface of the pool.

The Acid Wash mix is the most important element of Acid Wash. Here are the products that you need for a successful acid wash. You will need 31.45% Muriatic Acid mixed with water in a 2 to 1 water to acid mix. Bio-Dex Plaster White ‘n Brite to help thicken up the acid solution so that it runs smoothly down the walls of the pool and to reduce the acid fumes. Bio-Dex AquaDex 50 Stain-Off which helps to remove iron and other metal staining from the surface. If you use this Acid Wash mix you will have great results and the plaster or Pebble Tec will look as good as new!

You can prep the pool to remove some of the calcium build up on the tile with the Bio-Dex Protect-All-Supreme which will require you to raise the water level over the pool tile calcium line, pour in 1 or 2 gallons of the Protect-All-Supreme into the pool and then run the pool for 24-48 hours. In most cases, this is probably not something that most customers will opt to do since almost all of the acid washes I have done were in pools that needed to be drained straight away. But it is a part of the treatment and something that you can do as the first step.

Here are the detailed instructions from Bio-Dex on how to do an Acid Wash the Bio-Dex way:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DySSQfRRvUU00yqGC09EQvYVsrPkZV1y

I modified their method because it calls for mixing everything in a 5-gallon bucket and the pouring it down the sides. But I have always done my acid washes using a Water Pot as I find this to be the easiest and most effective method. So in the video, I show you the Watering pot mixture also.

Acid Wash Tips:

Always wear protective gear as the fumes and acid are hazardous.

The first thing you should know when you go to do an Acid Wash is that the results cannot be predicted. I can look at a pool now and pretty much predict the outcome. But each pool is different, and results vary.

You only want to Acid Wash a pool if the entire plaster or Pebble Tec is intact. This means no cracks or chips are present. And acid wash will make the chipping even worse so if the surface is full of cracks and holes in the plaster, I would pass on Acid Wash and move straight to resurfacing it.

You also, do not want to drain and Acid Wash a pool if the air temperature is over 90 degrees as the surface can be damaged by extreme heat exposure. Nor do you want to leave the pool drained for more than one day in hot weather. You also do not want to drain a pool when the water table is high- basically, if you have 3-6 inches of rain coming your way, do not drain a pool as it could potentially pop-out. You also don’t want to drain the water into an area around the pool. The ground can absorb the water, and this can also create a situation where the pool can pop-out. This is rare and something you really don’t need to worry about. You of course only want to Acid Wash a plaster of Pebble Tec pool and never acid washes a Fiberglass pool.

If the pool has heavy calcium staining on the surface, organic and metal staining can be trapped under the calcium. You can check for calcium before draining the pool simply by feeling the pool surface.

If it feels very rough like sandpaper, chances are there is a lot of calcium build up on the surface. Before doing Acid Wash you will need to power sand the pool surface. You can rent a power sander at Home Depot and then sand down the entire pool surface prior to Acid Wash. During Acid Wash if you notice the staining is not lifting off, take some sandpaper and rub the area. Then pour the acid mix over the area again. If the stain lifts then you know there is a coat of calcium build-up on the surface and you will have to power sand the entire pool.

Never use just straight acid on the surface. This will etch and damage the surface and will create streaking of the plaster. If the stain is not coming off calcium is probably the issue and not the acid mix.

The basin in the deep end is very critical. I always add Soda Ash to the basin and leave the Sump Pump (Submersible Pump) running so that the acid running off the walls does not pool up and stain the plaster. If this happens, once the pool is filled you will see a discolored ring around the deep end of the pool. So, keep the basin filled with Soda Ash or Baking Soda to neutralize the acid as it runs into the deep end basin and out through the Sump Pump.

If you follow these tips your Acid Wash will turn out great and your pool will have a new lease on life.

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Why Liquid Chlorine is the Best Sanitizer for your Pool

I get asked often what the best chlorine type is to use in a pool. There are a great many choices out there and the best one is one of the oldest methods, straight liquid chlorine. In the old days, it used to be chlorine gas but with regulations and such that practice has disappeared. Liquid chlorine is strong and has the least side effects for your pool.

Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the tried and true standard chemical of choice for most pool service professionals. It is easy to use and relatively inexpensive and it has the least side effects of any of the chlorine you can choose from. It is usually sold in 12.5% active chlorine per gallon with Bleach coming in at about half that strength at 6.5%. It will raise the pH slightly, but it does not contain any Stabilizer or Conditioner making it ideal for all pool types. This means that when you add a gallon of liquid chlorine and your Conditioner level (CYA) is 50 ppm it will stay at 50 ppm even if you add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine.

Pros:

Fastest acting of all chlorine types

Will not raise your CYA level

Safe for all pool types

Easy to use

Cons:

Breaks down by the Sun’s UV Rays so your pool needs a CYA level of 30-50 ppm

Short shelf life so rotate stock or buy fresh chlorine when needed

The gallons can be heavy compared to a bag of shock

Is seen as weaker than shock based on the low percentage of chlorine but is stronger

Cal Hypo is very popular and there are a number of reasons why it is widely used in the industry. It is easy to carry and comes in different strengths 60-75% active chlorine. One of the major side effects is that it contains calcium, so over time it will raise your pool’s calcium hardness. Not an issue if you live in an area with soft water but I caution the use in areas with hard water. It also has a high pH of around 12 so it will raise the pH in a pool if you use a significant amount each week. It can also make the pool cloudy if you pour a bag directly in. A very powerful form of shock.

Pros:

Strong and easy to use

Does not contain Conditioner so it will not raise the pool’s CYA levels

Safe for all pool surface types but use caution with a vinyl liner

Cons:

Raises Calcium Harness in a pool

Raises the pH in a pool

Clouds up the pool water

Dichlor is a very popular form of chlorine and the granular form makes it very easy to measure and use in a pool. It is pH neutral which means it will not raise or lower the pool pH in any significant way. It does contain Conditioner, about 45%-50% by weight. So, if you add 10 lbs. of Dichlor to a pool you are also adding about 5 lbs. of Conditioner. Over time this will increase the pool’s CYA levels. A little Dichlor goes a long way making this an ideal chemical to carry on your truck if you service pools. Just don’t overuse it because of the high amount of Conditioner in the product. It is usually about 62% active chlorine by weight.

Pros:

Easy to use and powerful

pH neutral

Safe for all surface types

The long shelf life of 2-3 years

Cons:

Adds Conditioner to the pool

Tri-Chlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, a very fine powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner. So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of Conditioner. If you overuse tablets your pool’s CYA level can go up rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 95% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3 so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in the form of Cyanuric Acid so if one falls into the pool it is likely to stain the surface by burning it.

The powder form of Tri-Chlor shock is a good mix of both power and less Conditioner per pound. It is fast-acting but has a strong chemical smell so use caution when using it. It is less pure than the tablet form and is usually 65%-70% active chlorine.  I use it on my route and find it to be effective in shocking a pool.

Tri-Chlor granular is a very powerful stuff. It is basically the Tri-Chlor Tablet grounded up in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use with extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is basically acid and if you let it pile up on the pool surface it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer and if you do use it for Black or Mustard algae make sure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. Not for use in Vinyl, Fiberglass or color plaster pools.

Pros:

Very strong and slow dissolving in tablet form so it releases chlorine all week long

Easy to use and affordable

Cons:

Can stain the pool surface

Contains 50% CYA by weight

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

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