Green Pool Clean Up Methods 101

What is the best method for clearing up a green pool? Shock it, Floc it or drain it? Let me touch on each of these for you here.

Draining a green pool sounds easy and logical but there are a great many hoops you will need to jump through to even do this successfully without getting a ticket from your county or city. Here in my area of California, it is illegal to drain a green pool into the street. You must first turn it milky blue and even then draining into the street is illegal and you must drain it into the main sewer line. After draining it the walls might still have dead algae on them and the empty basin will be an ugly swamplike slimy mess that you will have to clean up. You may have to do a chlorine wash as well before you refill the pool. So draining is not a simple process. 

FLOC Method:

Using a pool Floc has its benefits and you might want to purchase a bottle or dry container of Aluminum Sulphate (Floc) to help accelerate your pools recovery. Basically, the Floc will help to clump up all of the dead algae and organic particles and sink them to the pool bottom. Generally, you will leave your pool off for 24-48 hours for the Floc to be more effective. Once everything drops down to the bottom the pool will be much clearer, and everything will be easier to vacuum out. 

In most cases, you need to have a filter with a multiport valve so you can vacuum to “Waste.” Or you can use a portable clean-up pump if you have one.  Floc is optional but can help to clear the pool up faster, especially if you have an inefficient filter type like a Sand Filter. You will need to vacuum to “waste” since the bottom will be covered with dead algae dust and also 8-14 lbs of the Aluminum Sulphate (Flocculant). A regular cartridge or DE filter cannot take that much dust so you can’t vacuum a pool directly into the filter. 

It's a long method since you have to leave the pool off for 2 days. But it is easy. Add the floc, and put the multiport in “recirculate” for 30 minutes. Turn the pool off for 48 hours. Vacuum to waste. 

Shock and Awe Method:

Step One: Scoop out all of the leaves and debris from the bottom and surface. Don't worry about stirring everything up, you will vacuum at the end of the treatment.

Step Two: Brush the pool as best as you can. Some of the algae might be really tough to brush off. If you have a plaster or Pebble Tec Pool a Steel Algae Brush will help. But a lot of the algae will be loosened once you add the chemicals to the pool. 

Step Three: If you have a D.E. Or Cartridge filter take it apart and clean it. The filter type is usually on the label on the filter. 

If you have a Sand filter you will just be Backwashing it during this process. For a D.E. Or Cartridge filter, you probably will have to clean it again at least one more time or more. 

Step Four: Bomb the pool out. You want to bring the chlorine level up to 30-50 ppm to start to kill the algae. A lot of the chlorine will be destroyed by the algae and other organic material in the pool in the first 24 hours. A shorthand guide:

14,000-gallon pool: 14 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine or a combination of that and 1 lb. Bags of shock. 

20,000-gallon pool: 20 gallons of 12.5% chlorine.

30,000-gallon pool: 30 gallons of liquid chlorine. 

I suggest using Sodium Bromide to help kill the algae. Sodium Bromide is very effective, however, it does “use up” some of the chlorine so don't overdo it. I suggest one capful added with one gallon of liquid chlorine. So, if you are adding 8 gallons of liquid chlorine, 4 capfuls of Sodium Bromide should be sufficient. You want some of the chlorine to be active, so you don't want to add 8 capfuls of Sodium Bromide to the pool. Each Capful is about 4 oz. 

Step Five: Run the pool for 24-48 hours straight during the process. You may have to add more chlorine after 24 hours and clean the filter again. No need to vacuum the pool yet. Let everything slowly settle to the bottom first. This may take a couple of days. 

Step 6: After the pool has cleared enough for you to see the bottom, you can manually vacuum out the pool. The stuff on the bottom will be dead algae and other organics like dead mosquito larvae and other bugs and plants. If you have a sand filter or a D.E. Filter with a “Waste Mode” vacuum the pool with the Multi-Port Valve to that setting. If you do not have a backwash valve with a “Waste Mode” you can vacuum directly to the filter. Note that you will need to clean the filter after vacuuming if you do not vacuum to Waste. 

A portable clean-up pump comes in handy here, but it is an investment of about $200. If you plan on using it again it would be a worthwhile investment, otherwise, just vacuum to the filter and clean the filter.

It may take a week or two weeks to completely clear up but the pool will eventually turn back into a crystal clear blue pool. 

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West Coast Swimming Pool Tile Cleaning - Remove Calcium From Tile the Safe Way!

 West Coast Pool Tile Cleaning uses an environmentally safe, non-toxic low-pressure process to remove calcium deposits from your pool's tile and flagstone without damage.

P.O. Box 1365

Murietta, CA 92564

info@wcptc.com

1-800-603-0996

www.westcoastpooltilecleaning.com

Serving San Bernardino & Riverside County California.

Remove Calcium From Your Pool Safely!

West Coast Pool Tile Cleaning uses an environmentally safe, non-toxic low-pressure process to remove calcium deposits from your pool's tile and flagstone without damage.

Calcium Removal From:

Ceramic Pool Tile

Glass Pool Tile

Flagstone

Coping & Brick

Pebble Tec

Real & Artificial Rock

Fountains

What Causes Calcium Scale Deposits on Your Pool Tile?

Scale deposits can form along the waterline of your swimming pool. This is usually caused by a high calcium concentration. Constant temperature changes along with rapid evaporation will cause deposits to settle along the side of your pool wall.

West Coast Pool Tile Cleaning provides expert pool tile cleaning in all of Western Riverside County in Southern California including Canyon Lake, Corona, Lake Elsinore, Menifee, Murrieta, Riverside, Sun City, Temecula, Wildomar, and Winchester.

West Coast Pool Tile Cleaning is licensed and insured and will return every two years after your initial pool tile cleaning for a discounted price of, at least, $1 OFF per linear foot, which comes out to a savings of $100 or more! Call today to find out more information and request a FREE ESTIMATE: 1-800-603-0996.

Step 1: Make an Appointment

Once you’ve approved our FREE ESTIMATE and booked an appointment we will arrive at your home on the scheduled day to begin the cleaning.

Step 2: Lower the Water

We lower the water level of your pool to expose the tile line using a submersible pump.  This allows us to see and access the calcium deposits on your pool tile or Pebble Tec surface.

Step 3: Clean Surfaces

Using our specialized equipment, we clean the tile with an environmentally safe, non-toxic, low-pressure process to remove the calcium deposits from your pool's tile and flagstone. Once the calcium is removed, the debris and any undissolved material will settle to the bottom of the pool.

Step 4: Clean the Surrounding Area

Clean-up begins immediately. We wash down the cleaned surfaces to remove any residual materials from the serviced areas, as well as the surrounding deck.  Once everything is completely cleaned and the tile has dried, we determine if a sealer is necessary.

Is sealer necessary? We do not believe so. Why?

Ever wonder why your tile looked great for about three months after cleaning and then you noticed your tile begin to haze over?  Well, chances are it’s probably the sealer.

Some companies who bead blast pool tiles can be a little aggressive with the process of striping the glaze off the pool tile.  To compensate for any damage, they seal the surfaces with TPS.  TPS is a polymer-based sealer that dries glossy.  However, after a few months in the sun along with exposure to the swimming pool environment, the seal can start to go bad and begin to fade.  What was once the beautiful tile is now dull and grey!  Many of our competitors are still sealing tile and believe that it helps protect the tile and prevent future build-up.

West Coast Pool Tile Cleaning has been bead-blasting pool tile for years.  We believe that if you clean the tile properly there is no reason to seal it.  However, if a customer insists on us applying a sealer, additional charges may apply.  Sealer / Protectant is never applied to natural stone surfaces or Pebble Tec.

Step 5: Clean the Pool

Finally, we use the vacuum systems to clean the glass beads out of your swimming pool to complete the cleaning process.

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Time to Upgrade to a Saltwater Pool

Some of the best reasons to upgrade a pool to a saltwater pool are the consistency of having chlorine delivered each day in a measured dose. This will prevent the need to shock a pool and treat it for algae and other issues that arise when a pool zeros out on chlorine. Does the customer save any money by having you install a saltwater generator? Yes and no.

 

If you charge them for tablets and shock it may indeed add up to a cost savings if you add up 5 years of chemicals and the cost of a replacement salt cell. The initial system should last 15 years or more and the only real wear part is the salt cell itself. They are typically rated for 10,000-20,000 hours of use. Prices for a replacement cell are system dependent and they can be as little as $500 to as much as $1,400. So there is no real cost savings but there is a hassle-saving factor that makes a SWG more than pay for itself.

 

One drawback is the constantly rising pH. It’s partly due to the process itself and the chemical reaction and partly due to the turbulence of the salt cell. So although you save on chlorine you may spend a bit more on muriatic acid to keep the pH in check.

 

There is some maintenance required like cleaning the salt cell, making sure the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool, but for the most part, it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.

 

Upgrading is a personal choice and one you should make according to your overall pool care budget. Everything depends on how much more you are willing to spend on not worrying about adding chlorine each week to your pool. I have a Saltwater Pool and I am so used to the convenience of it that I wouldn’t be able to go back to a manual chlorine pool. So, once you convert you probably will not go back either.

Polaris VRX iQ+ Robotic Pool Cleaner with iAquaLink Control

The Polaris VRX IQ+ Robotic Pool Cleaner is the most innovative robotic cleaner on the market today. The fact that you can use the iAqualink app to control it, turn it on and off, and set a weekly schedule makes it a techie’s dream machine! The software in the VRX IQ+ features pool mapping and advanced navigation making it the smartest robot out there.

Here are some of the features of the VRX IQ+:

Robotic Pool Cleaner with Full Featured Wi-Fi Connectivity

70 ft Double Insulated Floating Cable.

Filtration Method: Illuminated Extra Large All Purpose Filter Canister

Remote Control: In-App with Targeted Spot Cleaning Action

Cleaning Modes: SMART Cycle, Quick Clean, Deep Clean, Waterline Only, and Custom

Cleaning

Schedules: Schedule Recurring Programming.

Dirty Canister Indicator: In-App and On Control Box

Drive: 4WD Navigates Obstacles

Vortex Vacuum Technology

Easy Lift System

Dynamic Bladed Brushes

Includes Powder Coated Alloy Caddy

Suitable for In-Ground Pools up to 60 ft.

Monitor cleaning status, check water temperature, and strategically spot-clean your pool with this intelligent robotic pool cleaner.

The smart functionality of the Polaris VRX IQ+ Robotic Pool Cleaner connects to your home WI-Fi giving you remote access for scheduling cleaning cycles, 7 cleaning modes, targeting cleaning areas, and receiving direct over-the-air performance updates.

The cleaner starts in the “Smart Cycle” and then proceeds to map your particular pool to come up with the best cleaning pattern. At my pool, it set the future cleaning “Smart Cycle” to 1:56. It also features a built-in Navigation system or “Sensor Nav System” that adjusts and adapts the cleaner to the pool. That along with the Deliberate Navigation which allows the cleaner to scan and measure the pool will allow the VRX IQ+ to clean your pool like no other cleaner on the market today.

There are also some nice touches like an illuminated debris canister and the clear top of the canister allows you to see when it is filling up. There is also a “Full canister” warning light on the Control Pad and in the app.

Another nice feature is, of course, the in-app controls. You can turn the cleaner on and off, select the cleaning mode, and set a weekly cleaning schedule all within the app. There is also a handy remote-control feature and the unit will display the pool water temperature. Not to mention if the control box is plugged into an outlet and the cleaner is in the pool, you can access these features from anywhere in the world with an internet connection. So, if you are two hours away simply start the cleaner from the app on your device and come home to a spotless pool.

To order: https://lesliespool.com/polaris-vrx-iq-robotic-pool-cleaner-with-iaqualink-control/630436.html

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How to Prevent Swimming Pool Algae

Getting Algae constantly in your pool each week can be very frustrating. Below are several methods to prevent algae from forming in your pool and all of these methods are tested and proven to work.

BORATES:

Adding Borates to your pool to achieve a level of 30-50 ppm has many benefits. I have a series of videos on Borates and highly recommend adding Borates to your pool. I have added Borates to my pool and couldn't be happier. The results are well worth it. 

Here are the proven benefits of having a Borate level of 30-50 ppm:

Lower Chlorine usage: The Borate helps reduce chlorine usage by eliminating Carbon Dioxide and also by keeping the pH stable. Chlorine last longer when the pH is right at 7.6-7.8. When the chlorine is in the ideal range the killing element in chlorine the HOCI is at the most balanced percentage so the chlorine in a pool with a pH of 7.4 is 30% more effective than in a pool with a pH of 8.0. This is a big factor in creating the safest swim environment and the borates will keep the pH much more stable and in turn make the chlorine much more effective.

pH is stable: The pH won't change much in a pool with Borate in it. So, if you have a Salt Water Pool this is a must since the pH tends to rise dramatically. In fact, in a Salt Water Pool, the pH can rise to over 8.4 very rapidly. You will find yourself putting tons of acid in each week just to keep the pH below 7.8. With borates in the pool, the pH will be stable and easy to control.  It is a must for a pool with a Salt Water Generator. It also will keep your salt cell from building up calcium rapidly since it sequesters the Calcium in the water. This means the salt cell will remain clean and your salt system will run much more efficiently.

Water is more sparkling: The Borate is more reflective so when the Sun hits the pool the water will sparkle. The fact that it sequesters calcium will give the water added clarity and you will notice the sparkle is almost blinding. The difference is very marked and noticeable and it is a good bonus benefit of borates.

Softer and less irritating water: The water feels softer and doesn't burn your eyes. It also will keep your skin and hair hydrated so after swimming your skin won't be as dried out. Borax has been used for a very long time as a softener for laundry. You will find it in the laundry aisle and it makes sense that it will also make the water feel softer and prevent dry skin.

Less Algae Growth: Boric Acid is a known Biostat. This prevents the algae cell from forming and multiplying. Thus, a pool with a Borate level between 30-50 ppm will prevent algae growth. Since borate prevents the algae cell from growing, algae blooms will be a thing of the past. No more algaecides or shocking the pool, algae just won’t grow in your pool any longer.

POOL RX:

PoolRx is a simple way to keep your pool algae-free all season long. It is also effective in cleaning a green pool and a side benefit of the product is that you will use less chlorine in the pool all season long.  In this Podcast, I talk to Fred Schweer VP of Sales at PoolRx Worldwide about using PoolRx at the beginning of the season and cleaning up a green pool. He also offers tips to pool service professionals on how to market and sell PoolRx to the customers on your route.

PoolRx is a Mineral Technology that does two very simple things when used in your pool or spa; it eliminates all algae and will allows you to use less chlorine during the pool season. The active ingredient is Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate (chelated).

What Chelated means is that the metals in the PoolRx have been bonded to form two coordinated bonds similar to what Metal Sequestering Agents do. This means that the Metal Ions will remain in the PoolRx unit with no metal ions being introduced into the pool or spa water. PoolRx is Chelated so the metal ions stay within the PoolRx unit itself.

Make sure that you choose the right size PoolRX unit so that the treatment will be effective. You can place it either in your skimmer or pump basket. When you first insert the unit run your pool for 3-4 hours. Then run it the normal cycle to get at least one full cycle of water from the pool, into the filter, and back into the pool again. The PoolRx unit should last 4-6 months.

PoolRx eliminates all algae fast. Even microalgae that you can't see use up the chlorine in your pool.

SODIUM BROMIDE:  

Any Sodium Bromide product will work effectively in treating Yellow Algae. As long as the active ingredient is Sodium Bromide it will work in clearing up the algae.

Bring the chlorine up to what we refer to as "Blazing High" if it is at zero ppm. One common

mistake is not starting with a good chlorine level. Sodium Bromide will convert the chlorine to

Bromine and the Sun will also burn some off as the Bromine Molecule does not bond with the Cyanuric Acid molecule (the conditioner does not protect Bromine) so even more chlorine will burn off. And some of the chlorine will be "eaten" or used up by the Yellow Algae itself.

So, it is very important to have a good chlorine level first 5-10 ppm, and to also add a gallon of liquid chlorine or Clorox bleach with each 4 oz. capful of Sodium Bromide. Otherwise, you might have an even worse problem.

But if you follow the procedure in the video below the yellow mustard algae will be destroyed and you can use a maintenance dose to prevent it from returning - about 1 oz.

per 10,000 gallons. I use Sodium Bromide almost exclusively on my route and week to week it is the most effective way to treat algae.

ALGI-BAN FOR BLACK ALGAE: 

Black algae can be tough to treat and get rid of as the roots extend into the plaster and even if you keep high chlorine levels in the pool the black algae can persist. It doesn't help that the heads of the black algae also offer a protective film that keeps the chlorine from killing it.

The most effective treatment in a white plaster pool or older color plaster pool is with granular Trichlor which is the same chemical found in the 3” tablets but in granular form. A popular brand is HASA Algi-Ban. You would aggressively brush the heads off the black algae and then sprinkle the granular Trichlor even on the pool bottom, covering as many black algae as possible.

Unhook any automatic cleaner and turn the system off for 24 hours if possible. The chlorine level will be high so no swimming for at least a week or more.

By the next day, the black algae should be gone. I typically use a 10 lb bucket in a large pool (20,000 gallons) with moderate to severe black algae. If your pool is smaller you can use less. Be careful not to let it pool up in a pile in one area as it could stain the plaster.

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Aiper Seagull Pro Cordless Robotic Pool Cleaner Review

 

The Aiper Seagull Pro is a cordless robotic pool cleaner and they have improved it over the last generation that I tested. It still has a few quirks like getting stuck on raised flat main drains and a rather different pre-programmed cleaning pattern.

Aiper claims it is designed to clean a pool up to 3,200 sq ft but that doesn’t make sense when you are trying to figure out if it is right for your pool size. A 3,200 sq ft pool is an Olympic-sized pool (40’x80’) which to me is very bold. I would say it will excel at a standard 15’x30 ft medium to a small backyard pool. 15,000 gallons or less and nothing larger because of the unique cleaning pattern. 

More on the cleaning pattern. If you set it for floors and walls it will spend time on the pool floor going in a back-and-forth pattern and then pivot to move across the entire pool floor until it reaches a wall or sloping area. Then it will switch to cleaning the walls. With a run time of about 3 hours, this pattern is better suited for a small to medium pool. A lot of the negative reviews speak about it not cleaning the entire pool. I suspect those are larger 20,000-gallon plus pools. 

I must say the mode dial on top is a nice touch. You can set it to clean the floors only, the floors and walls and the walls only. 

The build quality is excellent. This has the true feel of a production cleaner. It’s a bit heavy at 20 lbs but that is due to the large lithium-ion battery. Which charges very fast within 90 minutes. The charging port could be a fail point so always make sure the runner plug is firmly in place and the charging port is closed. 

The only downside I see is that the filter canister only filters dirt down to 180 microns. This means that the finer dirt will not be picked up by the cleaner. A fine-filter canister would be nice maybe down to 60 microns 

I would say for the price it is a solid robotic pool cleaner and suitable for many pools but not all of them. It will leave your medium to small pool pretty spotless after cleaning.

Cordless design

Cleans pools of up to the 15,000-gallon pool

Quad-motor system for powerful suction and scrubbing action

WavePath Navigation Technology for efficient and thorough cleaning

Variety of cleaning modes, including wall-only, floor-only, and automatic

Easy to use and maintain

Affordable price

Cloudy Swimming Pool Water

Cloudy pool water is a very common issue and it can be both easy to fix as well as complicated depending on the cause. Often it can be a combination of things causing the cloudy water and this will require a combination of things to clear up the pool.

Here is a common scenario that you may run into if it is multiple issues causing the cloudy water. Say there was a pool party over the weekend and the pool is very cloudy on Monday. It could be a combination of the heavy bather load plus the pool running out of chlorine or the chlorine combining with the organics in the water creating Combined Chlorine or the filter being dirty due to the suntan lotion and organics in the water. You can see how all of this comes together and how each of these can contribute to the cloudy water.

So, it is not always as simple as the causes and solutions below. If it is a combination of things it may take longer to correct it, or you may need to do more steps. For example, in the above combination, you can backwash the pool filter or take it apart and clean it. Run the pool pump for 24 hours and add chlorine to a shock level of 10 ppm. If you just added the chlorine but did not clean the filter or run the pool for 24 hours the cloudy water issue may not go away. Or if you cleaned the filter and ran the pool for 24 hours but didn’t raise the chlorine level to 10 ppm the cloudy water may persist. Below are some common causes and the solutions but keep in mind you may need to combine the solutions in a scenario with multiple causes.

#1 Cause: No chlorine in the pool. It seems like a simple thing but it happens all the time. If you get busy and forget to check the pool, unusually hot weather, heavy rain, or a pool party all can zero out your chlorine level.

Solution: Simply bringing the level of chlorine up to 10 ppm in your pool will reverse the cloudy water - known as "Shocking the pool." Also, run your pool for a longer time to help speed up the process.

#2 Cause: Combined Chlorine. Ever smell a chemical like the smell at a hotel or the local YMCA? Chlorine has no odor and what you are smelling is Combined Chlorine. Chloramines are what is now in the water and not only do you get an ammonia smell but the water will be cloudy.

Solution: Raising the chlorine to 10 ppm will cure this. Sometimes you will need to raise it to 20 ppm, basically, super chlorinate the pool to kill the Ammonia that has formed in the water.

#3 Cause: Not running the pool long enough. You need at least one cycle of water through your pool each day. One cycle is all the pool water going through the pool filter and then back into the pool. If the chlorine is fine but the water is cloudy chances are you are not running the pool long enough.

Solution: Set your pool to run longer.

#4 Cause: A filter leak. This happens mainly with D.E. filters and a filter leak can cause your water to be very cloudy or partly cloudy.

Solution: Take the filter apart and inspect it and if there are broken grids simply replacing them will solve the problem.

#5 Cause: Adding Soda Ash or Baking Soda to the pool. When you add a base to the pool it can become cloudy for a short period. After a few hours or by the next day it should clear up. A good way to avoid this is to add the base directly to the skimmer.

Solution: Manually vacuum up the dust on the pool bottom, the pool will clear up very quickly,

#6 Cause: High Alkalinity or High Calcium Hardness. Not very common but this could also cause your pool to be cloudy. But these need to be very high for this to happen.

Solution: Add Muriatic Acid to lower the Alkalinity.

These are the basic causes for cloudy pool water and they are easily corrected. It could also be something unusual but these are the most common causes I run into on my pool route.

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Green Pool Clean-Up Pump

The Advantage Manufacturing Super Vac II is a plug-in-and-play Portable Clean-up pump. No need to hunt for adapters or build your pump. Simply order the Super Vac II and you are all set to go.

It features a capable 1.5 HP pump and will give you plenty of power for your clean-up jobs. It has included hose adapters with unions and it also comes with standard 2” unions if you need to use the Super Vac II as a spare pump or temporary pump. It also has a 9 ft cord so you can easily plug it into a GFI outlet and vacuum out a pool.

What would be some of the uses of this pump? For green pool clean-ups at service accounts with cartridge filters or D.E and sand filters with the push-pull piston type backwash valves. In my area, very few filters have a multiport valve with a “Waste” mode. So in situations where you need to vacuum to waste this pump would be ideal. If you use the Floc method for your green to clean this pump is more than capable of pumping out all of the dead algae and floc from the bottom of a pool.

After a major wind or dust storm it might be impossible to vacuum all of the dirt into a cartridge filter or D.E. filter. Instead of vacuuming with the pool system just put the Super Vac II at the poolside and vacuum to waste. For special clean-ups, this pump would be ideal.

Need to drain 1-2 ft of water and add fresh water? Maybe someone added too much salt to the pool. Not a problem. The Super Vac II pumps 150 gallons per minute and will have that pool partially drained in no time.

The new wet end is manufactured here in the USA and it is a great design. The lid is super easy to remove and the pump pot is large so in most cases if there is only light debris you won’t need a canister in front.

You can order it direct from Advantage Manufacturing and they can ship it anywhere in the continental United States. The current list price is $649.00 but if you call and mention you are a pool pro they will give you wholesale pricing.

https://www.advantageman.com/product_p/adm_super_vac_ii.htm

Your local Leslie’s Pool Supply should also be able to order the Super Vac II for you.

 

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Jandy SpeedSet VS FloPro Pump

 The Jandy SpeedSet controller is the next generation in VS pump control. It is the direct replacement for the Jandy JEP-R and it has many great new features.

It has a large display which comes in super handy while programming and adjusting the schedules. Compared to any pump display currently on the market the screen is 10x larger. If you don’t think the larger screen is a big deal, after using the SpeedSet you will wonder how you ever survived on those tiny slices of a screen on other pumps. 

The FlyWheel has to be the best upgrade in my opinion. Those left, right, up, and down arrow keys are a real pain on most VS pumps.  You can easily get lost in a menu and forget how to exit it. Not so with the FlyWheel. It is a dial that you spin and the menu items just scroll left or right and up or down depending on where you are in the menu.  It takes about 5 seconds to get used to and after that, you will want it on every VS Pump.

I should mention that the SpeedSet controller can be ordered mounted on the Jandy VS FloPro,  as well as their EPump and their VS PumpHP. You can get a wall-mount SpeedSet to replace an existing JEP-R as well. On the pump, you can turn the SpeedSet 4 different ways to position the screen perfectly for the best viewing. A simple counterclockwise twist is all you need to do. 

On the bottom of the SpeedSet is Automation Pass-Through Wiring which allows you to connect an automated system and use the speedSet to bypass it when needed. It’s a smart extra that will make controlling the pump easy if say you need to add chlorine to a pool and need it to run for 3 hours. Simply hit the “Clean” button and that is all you need to do. Or if you want to clean the filter or pump basket, hit the “Stop” button. So no need to even open the outside automated panel.

When the top lid is closed the button bar is exposed. Not to worry the buttons are 100% waterproof. But this makes it super easy to tell if the pump is working. You can also hit a button without having to open the top of the SpeedSet. The button bar has 

Stop – this turns the pump off indefinitely – lights up red.

Auto – This means the pump is in normal operation mode and will run the programmed schedule

Clean – You can set a specific run time and pump RPM and when you hit the “Clean” button it will go on for that set time and then automatically return to the programmed scheduled times. For example, you can set the “clean” button to run for “4 hours at 2800 RPM.

Buttons 1 and 2 – can also be programmed for a specific run time and speed. For example, if you wanted to use “1” as your spa button, you could put the valves in the spa position, hit “1” and program it to run for 2 hours at 3450 RPM. That way the spa gets the full RPM with a push of a button. The “2” can be programmed similarly. Then you have virtual buttons 3-8 which probably will never be used but they are there regardless. Virtual buttons 3-8 can be programmed the same way.

The SpeedSet can hold up to 10 programmed schedules. You probably will not need more than 3 but having more options is better. With the flywheel and the easy menu setups, programming a scheduled run time could not be easier. 

Let me touch a little on the FloPro VS pump which is my favorite of the three VS pumps Jandy makes. The FloPro is designed to be their aftermarket pump. It can be easily installed in an existing equipment pad and it comes with a handy base so that you can line up the inlet and outlet of many popular single-speed pumps that you are replacing. 

No Base Hayward® Super Pump®,

Pentair® SuperFlo®,

Sta-Rite® SuperMax®

Hayward Super II™,

Jandy PlusHP and MaxHP Pumps

Small Base

w/ Spacers

Pentair WhisperFlo® and

Sta-Rite Dyna-Glas™ 

Small Base

+ Large Base

Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro®,

Sta-Rite Dura-Glas®,

Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II,

Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas®

Programmable Auxiliary Relays for Instant Automation. Two programmable auxiliary relays allow the pump to control other equipment, such as a salt chlorinator and booster pump, without a separate time clock. These devices will turn on when the pump reaches a minimum RPM. For example, you can program the AUX 1 relay to come on when the pump reaches 1600 RPM and it will run as long as the pump remains above 1600 RPM. The nice thing about the SpeedSet is that you can directly program AUX 1 and AUX 2 and set the minimum speed it needs to turn on, overriding the factory defaults. 

115v/230v Dual Voltage Capability The ability to operate with either 115v or 230v power sources provides installation flexibility and eliminates expensive main power rewiring, making the VS FloPro 2.7HP the ideal aftermarket replacement pump. The beauty of the 1.65 and 1.85 THP VS FloPro is that if they are installed at a 115V pad they will operate at or near their full THP. Most other pump brands will throttle down the THP on 115V but not the Jandy FloPro.

• Additional Features

› Adjustable base for seamless direct replacement

of a variety of other pumps in the aftermarket

› Zero Clearance TEFC Motor for cool,

quiet operation in tight spaces

› 2” unions included or utilize 2” internal threads

› Easy Controller Setup auto detects a connection to

an automation system or a traditional controller,

eliminating the need to adjust settings manually

› RS485 Quick Connect Port for faster

installation and maintenance

› Four-Speed Dry Contact Relay Control

› Tool-free lid for easy debris removal

› Ergonomic easy-transport handle

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Advantage Pool Service Cart 2.0

Advantage Service Casrt 2.0 is perfect for carrying your professional supplies to all of your service stops. With its rugged wall construction and New hard plastic large tires, you will never have to worry about lugging around your unorganized heap of chemicals and supplies again. If you are looking to save time and more importantly save wear and tear on your body, a service cart is a way to go.

The new safety blue color is eye-catching and so professional looking!

The concept of a service cart is to save back-and-forth trips. If you are tired of going back and forth to your service truck a service cart is the way to go. Advantage Manufacturing has been making these carts for several years now and I recently got my hands on one to test out. I must say that the service cart is a solid product with lots of great features. You can order online or call them to get a cart custom-made for you. The turnaround time for a custom cart is less than a week. For example, if you wanted the test kit holder to fit a Taylor K-2006 kit, you can request that. 

THE SERVICE CART CAN HOLD

Test kit

Brush attachments

4 Quart bottles

50 feet of flexible suction hose

Tile brush

Telescopic pole

Full case of chlorine

Along with the service cart, you will need the blue hitch that is also made by Advantage Manufacturing. This allows you to transport the service cart on the back of your truck or van without having to lift it in. You can order both the cart and hitch from the link below or by calling 800-636-8866 and asking for Josh or Eben. If you are interested in the T-Bar mount in blue also shown in this video you can order that from Advantage as well (mention you are a pool pro to get wholesale pricing!).

 

To order: https://www.advantageman.com/product_p/adm_service_cart_b.htm

To order the Blue hitch: https://www.advantageman.com/product_p/adm_hitch_blue.htm

The cart is also the perfect width to fit in most gates and the large plastic wheels make it very easy to pull up and downstairs. It is also extremely well-balanced and once you park it next to the pool it will not roll forward or tip over. There are just so many advantages to the service cart and not having to lug all of your chemicals and cleaning tools back to each stop is just one of many.

Visit my Website: http://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/

eBook: https://www.swimmingpoollearning.com/swimming-pool-care-ebook