PoolRx+ is a simple way to keep your pool algae-free all season long. It is also effective in cleaning a green pool, and a side benefit of the product is that you will use less chlorine in the pool all season long. It is a great way to save on chlorine, which has become very expensive, making the PoolRx+ significantly lower if you factor in the savings benefits.
PoolRx is a Mineral Technology that does two straightforward things when used in your pool or spa: it eliminates all algae and allows you to use less chlorine during the pool season. Copper Sulphate, Pentahydrate, and silver (chelated) are active ingredients.
Chelated means that the PoolRx metals have been bonded to form two coordinated bonds similar to what Metal Sequestering Agents do. This means the metal ions will remain in the PoolRx unit, and no metal ions will be introduced into the pool or spa water. This prevents any metal staining on the pool surface
Make sure that you choose the correct size PoolRx+ unit to make the treatment effective. You can place it either in your skimmer or pump basket. When inserting the unit, run your pool for 3-4 hours. Then, run the standard cycle to get at least one complete water cycle from the pool, into the filter, and back into the pool again. The PoolRx+ unit should last 4-6 months.
PoolRx+ is also ideal for a saltwater pool. It will extend the life of your salt cell as you run the system at a lower output, while PoolRx+ is present in the pool, typically 50% less output. PoolRx+ minerals also include a de-scaler that will prevent scale from attaching to the salt cell, meaning less cell cleaning is needed. Also, since it generates less, the pH won't rise as high, requiring less acid added to the pool.
Using the PoolRX on your pool route will save you time and money. The manufacturer's claim of saving 20-30% on chemical costs is plausible, and once you try a PoolRx in one of your accounts, you will be amazed! With thousands of reviews online, this is an actual 5-star rated product.
PoolRx+ is a Mineral Technology that does two straightforward things when used in your pool or spa: it eliminates all algae and allows you to use less chlorine during the pool season. The active ingredients are Copper Sulphate, Pentahydrate, silver, & Zinc (chelated).
If you haven't tried PoolRx before, it is something to consider now in this era of industry-wide hyperinflation.
The photometer works by shining a specific wavelength of light through the colored water sample. The light source is typically an LED or laser that can emit light at the precise wavelength needed for the test. As the light passes through the sample, some of it is absorbed by the colored solution, while the rest passes through to a light sensor on the other side.
The most accurate and precise reading
Digital reading to decimal points
Can document the reading
Easy to use
It takes the guesswork out of testing
Does more test factors than reagent testing
NSF approved
User error
More time consuming
Tablets for certain reagents
Reagents are more expensive
The device is more expensive
Replacement cost
If you do Commercial Accounts – Photometer
Start-up - good
Reagent Testing:
Fast
Affordable
Easy to use
Some are NSF-approved
Affordable
Reagents are affordable
Readings are subjective
User error
Need aptitude to tell the color difference so not for color blindness 8% of men color blind to some level.
Limited test parameters
No digital printout for records
Reagent testers are more affordable and faster but lack the technology advantages of a photometer – accuracy and a digital reading that can be stored and shared.
The Reagent Test Kits use a drop test, and when the reagent solution is entered into the water sample, a color change occurs. Taylor is the leading manufacturer of these reagent test kits, and you can also purchase an essential Pool Master Kit at your local pool store. The reagents can test for important factors like Chlorine, Free Chlorine, Total Chlorine, Bromine, Alkalinity, pH, Calcium Hardness, and CYA (Conditioner). These kits are easy to use and a great way to test your pool and spa water each week. The Taylor K-2005 and K-2006 are popular test kits.
The drawback of the reagent test kit is user error. You will get a false reading if you don't add the correct number of drops. If the reagents are expired, you will also get an inaccurate reading. Like test strips, you match colors to get your reading, so if you need to improve at distinguishing colors, you will need help reading the correct results. But these are minor drawbacks, and as you gain experience with the Reagent Test Kits, you will get better at reading the right results. Some popular test kits are the Taylor K-2005 and K-2006, which I use on my pool route.
Photometer Testers are gaining popularity, and they are the only test kit that will give you a spot-on reading of the test factors. The LaMotte Color Q 2X Pro7 & 2X Pro9 is a trendy photometer test kit, and the new Pool Lab 2.0 is also a great test kit. These kits operate when an electronic photometer reads the color spectrum of the reagent or tablet in the water sample. Since the photometer can read the exact color of the water sample, it can give you an accurate digital reading of the test factor. If you are doing a pH test, for example, it will give you the pH down to the exact level, like 7.5. This can't be done with test strips or the reagent test kits. These are great for Commercial accounts or homeowners struggling with color matching.
The drawback of photometer testers is the price point. Since they are more advanced, the price point is typically 3-4 times that of a premium reagent test kit. However, a photometer tester is suitable if you are looking for the most accurate test results without guessing the actual reading.
One of the most advanced photometer testers is the LaMotte Spin Touch Mobile, which tests ten factors in one minute! The price point is nearly $1,000, and each disk is $2.50. Still, it can do all of these tests in less than a minute and give you a digital readout of all of them: Free Chlorine (DPD) 0-15 ppm, Total Chlorine (DPD) 0-15 ppm, Bromine (DPD) 0-33 ppm, pH 6.3-8.6, Calcium Hardness 0-800 ppm, Total Alkalinity 0-250 ppm, Cyanuric Acid 5-150 ppm, Copper 0-3.0 ppm, Iron 0-3.0 ppm, Salt 0-6000 ppm, Phosphate 0-2000 ppb.
Digital Testers can also give you unavailable readings with test strips and reagent testers such as Salinity, TDS (Total Dissolved Solids), ORP, Temperature, pH, and other factors. These are great and accurate testers and can expand the different test factors you can do in your pool and spa.
There is no perfect pool sanitizer. Take a Saltwater Generator for example. It produces chlorine but at a pretty high upfront cost, and then there is monthly maintenance to keep the salt cell producing chlorine.
Liquid Chlorine (Sodium hypochlorite) – by-product is salt (Sodium)
17 ppm per 10,000 gallons of water with 1 gallon of liquid chlorine. Liquid Chlorine or Bleach is the tried and true standard chemical for most pool service professionals. It is easy to use, relatively inexpensive, and has the most minor side effects of any chlorine you can choose from. It is usually sold in 12.5% active chlorine per gallon, with Bleach coming in at about half that strength at 6.5%. It will raise the pH slightly but does not contain any Stabilizer or Conditioner, making it ideal for all pool types. This means that when you add a gallon of liquid chlorine, and your Conditioner level (CYA) is 50 ppm, it will stay at 50 ppm even if you add 20 gallons of liquid chlorine.
Pros:
Fastest-acting of all chlorine types
Will not raise your CYA level
Safe for all pool types
Easy to use
Cons:
Breaks down by the Sun’s UV Rays, so your pool needs a CYA level of 30-50 ppm
Short shelf life, so rotate stock or buy fresh chlorine when needed
Half-life is about 90 days
The gallons can be heavy compared to a bag of shock
Cal Hypo (Calcium hypochlorite) Calcium
Eight ppm of calcium is added to 10,000 gallons of water per 1 lb. of Cal Hypo.
Cal Hypo is very popular, and there are several reasons why it is widely used in the industry. It is easy to carry and comes in different strengths, such as 60-75% active chlorine. One of the significant side effects is that it contains calcium, so over time, it will raise your pool’s calcium hardness. It is not an issue if you live in an area with soft water, but I caution against using it in areas with hard water. It also has a high pH of around 12, so it will raise the pH in a pool if you use a significant amount each week. Piquing a bag directly in can also make the pool cloudy—a potent form of shock.
Pros:
Solid and easy to use
It does not contain a Conditioner, so it will not raise the pool’s CYA levels.
Cal Hypo Tablets dissolve slowly over a week and don’t raise the pool’s CYA level.
Safe for all pool surface types, but use caution with a vinyl liner
Cons:
Raises Calcium Harness in a pool
Raises the pH in a pool
Clouds up the pool water if poured directly in
Dichlor (Dichloroisocyanuric acid) adds about 50% CYA to the pool water per weight of the dichlor added. Example: If you add 10 lbs of Dichlor to your pool, add 5 lbs. of Cyunaric Acid to the water.
Dichlor is a prevalent form of chlorine, and its granular form makes it very easy to measure and use in a pool. It is pH neutral, so it will not significantly raise or lower the pool pH. It does contain Cyanuric Acid (CYA), about 50%-65% by weight. So, if you add 10 lbs. of Dichlor to a pool, you also add about 6 lbs. of CYA. Over time, this will increase the pool’s CYA levels. A little Dichlor goes a long way, making this an ideal chemical for your truck if you service pools. Just don’t overuse it because of the high amount of Conditioner in the product. It is usually about 62% active chlorine by weight.
Pros:
Easy to use and powerful
pH neutral
Safe for all surface types
Long the shelf life of 2-3 years
Cons:
Adds Conditioner to the pool
It is expensive, so it is not practical in most applications
Trichlor or Trichloroisocyanuric Acid ( Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione) adds about 50% of Cyanuric Acid to the water by Trichlor tablet weight.
Comes in three forms. The familiar 3” tablets that slowly dissolve in your pool, an excellent powder shock and a granular form. About 50% of the Tri-Chlor by weight is Conditioner. So, a 50 lbs. bucket of tablets is about 25 lbs. of CYA. If you overuse tablets, your pool’s CYA level can increase rapidly. Trichlor tablets are usually 95% to 99% active chlorine. Tri-Chlor tablets have a very low pH of 2-3, so they will lower the pH in your pool. The tablets contain acid in Cyanuric Acid, so if one falls into the pool, it will likely stain the surface by burning it.
The powder form of Trichlor shock is a good mix of both power and less Conditioner per pound. It is fast-acting but has a strong chemical smell, so use caution. It is less pure than the tablet form and is usually 65%-70% active chlorine. I use it on my route and find it effective in shocking a pool.
Tri-Chlor granular is potent stuff. The Trichlor Tablet is grounded in granular form and is 99% active chlorine. Use extreme caution as the Conditioner in the granular can stain the plaster. The CYA in the tablet is acid, and if you let it pile up on the pool surface, it will stain the plaster as if you dropped a 3” Tablet into the pool. Never add this to the skimmer; if you use it for Black or Mustard algae, ensure it is evenly dispersed on the pool surface. It is not used in vinyl, fiberglass, or color plaster pools.
Pros:
It is solid and slowly dissolves in tablet form, releasing chlorine all week.
Since the Bio-Lab factory fire in 2020 caused by Hurricane Laura caused Trichlor prices to spike 150% and stay there, you want to ensure you are getting your money's worth.
Store Brand Vs. Unbranded
Store Brand:
EPA Certified
Consistent in size and weight
Stock is rotated
99% Trichlor
Water sealed lid
Child proof lid
Dissolves constantly
Chlorox tablets are good, but I wouldn't say I like the bucket – it is hard to open and has a poor seal from the elements.
Other Brands:
Not EPA certified
No way to know if it is 99% Trichlor
Inconsistent tablets and a lot of broken tabs
Inconsistent dissolving
By-products can clog
Trichlor Feeders
Once the feeder is clogged, it can produce dangerous fumes
Blended Trichlor:
Adds copper to the water
Staining possible
Only 90% Trichlor
Not getting your money's worth
Cal Hypo Tabs:
Not compatible with Trichlor feeders or floater
It can cause an explosion if mixed
Not all trichlor tablets are the same, although they might appear to be very similar because they are based on the same active ingredient, trichloroisocyanuric acid (Trichlor). The differences among trichlor tablets can stem from several factors:
Concentration of Active Ingredient: Most trichlor tablets have a high concentration of available chlorine, usually around 90%, but there can be slight variations in the concentration and stability of the active ingredient depending on the manufacturing process. Some are 99% Trichlor by weight and others are not.
Additives: Some trichlor tablets may include additives such as algae preventatives, clarifiers, or stain and scale inhibitors. These additives are designed to provide additional benefits beyond just sanitizing the pool. Some of these additives can clog up your chlorine feeder and make it inoperable.
Dissolution Rate: Manufacturers might formulate their tablets to dissolve at different rates to accommodate various needs. Slow-dissolving tablets are generally preferred for a steady release of chlorine, but there might be slight variations in how quickly they dissolve based on the tablet's density and binders used in the manufacturing process. Not all tablets dissolve equally.
Quality and Purity: The quality and purity of the trichlor tablets can vary between brands. Higher-quality tablets might produce less residue and have fewer insoluble fillers, leading to less maintenance and potential issues with your pool's filtration system.
Choose carefully to get your money’s worth.
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Many things can go right with a saltwater system; having all green lights on your system display is golden. But, like any electronic product, things can go wrong at times.
Some of the most common issues are a dirty salt cell, not producing enough chlorine, and, of course, when the cell gets old, it stops functioning or generating chlorine. None of these are deal breakers, and each has an easy solution.
One drawback is the constantly rising pH. It's partly due to the process itself and the chemical reaction and partly due to the turbulence of the salt cell. So, although you save on chlorine, you may spend more on muriatic acid to keep the pH in check.
Some maintenance is required, like cleaning the salt cell, ensuring the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool. Still, for the most part, it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.
Knowing some things that can go wrong before you purchase a system is an important aspect that should be part of your buying equation.
I am honest about the true benefit of a saltwater system: it adds chlorine to the pool without you having to do anything. This means no more trips to the pool store for shock or liquid chlorine. It is a great time saver for sure. But for me, that is the only benefit.
With that said, a saltwater system is a preference. And if you can absorb the cost of the system and don't mind the extra overall cost of a salt pool, then it is the way to go. Who wants to add tablets and liquid chlorine or shock every week to their pool? You can set it and forget it with a Saltwater Generator connected to your pool equipment. Of course, some maintenance is required, like cleaning the salt cell, ensuring the salt level is good, and setting the output to the correct setting to chlorinate your pool. Still, for the most part, it is much easier than trying to maintain a steady chlorine reading during the season by manually adding chlorine to the pool.
Upgrading is a personal choice you should make according to your overall pool care budget. Everything depends on how much you will spend, not worrying about adding chlorine to your pool each week. I have a Saltwater Pool, and I am so used to the convenience of it that I wouldn't be able to go back to a manual chlorine pool. Once you convert, you probably will not go back, either.
Besides the significant issues I mentioned in the podcast, some other things are not disastrous but still fall in the "big mistake" category.
Failure to add water
This is the #1 failure I see daily. Many pools do not have an in-deck Autofill system, so it is up to the pool owner to add water to the pool each week. Newer pools have a safety feature in the skimmer to prevent the pump from running dry, but older pools do not. If the water is left low for a short period, leaks will happen, and the pool motor can burn out. This is one of the easiest things to correct, check, and add water to the pool weekly. In the Summer, most regions lose one to two inches of water each from evaporation. The ideal pool water level is right before the skimmer opening. The pool will stay much cleaner with the correct water level, and you will avoid expensive repairs.
On the flip side is failing to turn the water off while filling the pool. This happens to almost every customer. Try setting your phone alarm or turning on your stove timer. I don't fill customer pools because of liability, but I will occasionally fill them if I am at a vacant property. I always set my truck keys on the fill valve so I don't leave the account with the water running.
Not Emptying the Skimmer or Pump Baskets:
Just as bad as not filling the pool is not cleaning the skimmer or pump baskets every week. The debris can clog up either basket and prevent the pool pump from priming. This will also cause the pool not to filter properly and the water quality to suffer. It is a straightforward thing to do, and you should check and empty both the pump and skimmer basket each week. Also, I suggest adding a large rock to the skimmer basket as, in many cases, they will float up after the pool turns off, spilling debris everywhere – the rock will keep it down in the skimmer.
One error I often see when the customer empties the pump basket is not filling the pump with water before putting the lid back on the pump. The pump will prime up much better with water in the pot area. Also, I have seen customers drop the pump lid O-Ring out onto the ground and put the lid back on without it. The pump will not prime without the O-ring on the pump lid. Make sure the O-Ring is on there and in good shape.
Failure to Turn the Pool on:
If you have a stand-alone VS pump, there is a dedicated on/off button, and many customers will turn the pool off when using it – with this button. But it will remain out all week if you don't hit the on/off button when you are done using the pool. So, if you use the pool in the afternoons, I suggest programming it to run in the early morning and turning it off by 3 pm to avoid this issue. I see this often on my pool route and have also left a pool off by mistake all week – oops.
Another similarity is when you use your attached spa and forget to turn the valves back to pool mode when finished. I can't tell you how many times I have gone into the backyard and seen a perfectly clear and sparkling spa and a cloudy or algae-filled pool. The spa was left running all week while the pool was off all week. So after using the spa, be sure to turn the valves back to pool mode to avoid leaving the pool off all week.
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Manually vacuuming your swimming pool and spa with a manual vacuum head and pool hose sounds simple and easy to do. Attach the vacuum head and hose, and you are good. But it can be a little more complex than that. I will be going over some do’s and don’ts in this article for you so that you can avoid making some typical mistakes.
Vacuum System vs Manual or System Vacuuming
Pros:
System vacuuming picks up both dirt and small leaf debris
Affordable
Easy
Effect
Cart Systems
Drawbacks:
Time-consuming
Not suitable for large leaf debris
Everything goes into the filter unless you use a “waste” mode, but many filters don’t have a “Waste” mode.
Vacuum System Pros:
Fast and effective with large debris
It is not suitable for dirt under 75 microns. Although there are finer micron bags, they are not designed for complete vacuuming but for spot vacuuming.
Convenient and easy to use
Dirt and debris go into a debris bag
You can purchase with a service cart
Professional looking
Drawbacks:
Expensive
Heavy except the bottom Feeder
Not suitable for fine dirt
Requires maintenance and repairs
Can be stolen
Let me outline some of the most critical don’ts so you won’t damage your pool or equipment. When submerging the vacuum head and pool hose, ensure all the air is out. This can be achieved by pushing the hose into the water hand-over-hand. You want to connect the hose to the skimmer suction line without any air in the hose. Air can cause the pump to lose its prime, and if you let it run for several minutes without water in the pump basket area, also known as the wet end, this could cause air leaks to develop in the system. Air leaks then lead to water leaks and a loss of pool suction. Making sure there is no air in the pool hose when you connect the vacuum is essential. While vacuuming, try not to lift the vacuum head out of the water when moving around obstacles or getting around the vacuum hose. When you lift it out of the water, it will suck large amounts of air in, causing the pump to lose prime.
The next thing you never want to do is place the vacuum head directly over a main drain cover. The suction from the pump and the vacuum head attached to the top of the drain cover could cause it to get stuck on top of it. If you try to pull it off the drain cover, you could crack the plastic around the screwed-down area and inadvertently break the cover off. This will become a costly repair, so if you accidentally set the vacuum head on top of the main drain cover, try to avoid pulling it up and off. Instead, turn off the pump and move the vacuum head off the main drain.
Using a cheap hose and vacuum head can also contribute to vacuuming frustration. A cheap hose will cavitate due to the pump’s powerful suction, which will cause the pump to lose its prime. You will know this is happening when you see the walls of the pool hose twisting and collapsing in on themselves when they are attached to the pool skimmer. If this happens, I suggest upgrading to a professional pool hose like a Smooth Bor brand.
If your vacuum head is constantly getting stuck on the pool bottom, you are using an old or cheap vacuum head. A professional quality vacuum head is designed not to get stuck on the pool surface and is a worthwhile investment. The key to a successful experience is using professional-grade equipment.
Vacuum Systems
Riptide:
This is the Tesla of vacuum systems. Riptide is constantly innovating, and to prove that point, they scrapped their first version entirely and started over almost completely. They kept their vacuum head. The vacuum head comes with a 10-year warranty because it is that durable.
The version you will get is as close to complete as it can get. The High Torque Motor (which uses rare earth magnets) makes it the most powerful vacuum on the market. The cord has a new protective external layer and comes in 40 ft or 60 ft lengths. The cart is now e-coated before powder-coating
The Transport Rack Is e-coated now, too- Electrostatic Coating- All of our powder-coated parts are now electrostatic coated (coating) and then powder coated over. This makes the finish of our components much more durable. Extremely high-quality integrated steering knuckle -Integrated Stainless Steel Steering Knuckle. This allows you to hook any pole directly up to the Riptide vacuum without any adaptors while maneuvering in the water is effortless. The SL model Riptides now includes a Diagnostic/Tool Kit with a battery load tester; the load tester is essential for quickly determining battery condition.
Hammer-Head:
The Hammer-Head has been around almost as long as the Power Vac. The Vac head is shaped differently but has the same power as the Power Vac. You can get the standard 21” vacuum head or the more giant 30” one. For most service techs, the 21” vacuum head will work fine. You can also get the cord in 40 ft or 60 ft length, and the cart is probably the least refined of the big three. It is well-balanced and functional.
ALL STAINLESS HARDWARE
FEATURING THE PATENTED SMART SWITCH™ (The new HH1062 Smart Switch comes standard on all Hammer-Head pool cleaning units. SMART SWITCH™ features include a motor-saving overload sensor, two speeds, and an automatic shutoff when the motor is out of the water for over a minute).
Bottom Feeder:
Fast. Light. Powerful.
Finish vacuuming a pool faster and easier with The Bottom Feeder Professional-Grade Battery-Powered Swimming Pool Vacuum. This cordless portable pool vac is lightweight and easy to use, you can carry everything in one hand in only one trip from the truck to every pool on your route. With no hoses, long cords, or carts, connect the 1.5-hr. With a rechargeable lithium-ion battery, you are good to go. Weighing in at only 12 lbs., this compact, lightweight, battery-powered pool vacuum is the lightest commercial-duty swimming pool vacuum system available.
The 18 lbs. thrust motor makes it effective at picking up leaves, twigs, small stones, coins, and finer debris. So, there is plenty of power.
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