Ask the Pool Guy: YouTube Q&A

Pool owners and service pros often face the same set of frustrating questions: how to clean cartridge filters without tearing them up, how to keep dark pebble finishes from turning cloudy with white scale, and how to protect equipment when the temperature plunges. This episode digs into practical, field-tested answers that protect surfaces, save labor, and stretch budgets. We start by clearing up a common mistake: using a pressure washer on cartridge filters. Though the material looks tough, most cartridges are a type of paper, and high pressure can rip pleats and shorten service life. Instead, a high-pressure hose nozzle like the Orbit Sunmate can add safe force, even in low-pressure areas, and speed cleaning without wrecking media.

Calcium scale on dark pebble finishes is a different beast. New finishes can scale fast, especially where water is hard and start-up wasn’t ideal. The most effective prevention strategy is managing the Langelier Saturation Index. A slightly negative LSI reduces scale potential without pushing the water into aggressive territory. The Orenda app makes it simple to factor in temperature, pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, CYA, and salt. For added protection, a sequestrant like EasyCare Butech can help hold minerals in solution and slow visible deposits while chemistry stabilizes. Still, even with smart balance, calcium will build on pebble over time because the exposed aggregate behaves like river rock and invites mineral film.

When scale wins, owners want a fix that actually works. Acid washing rarely solves pebble scale because calcium adheres to the stone and cement matrix. The reliable method is media blasting by a tile-cleaning specialist, which physically removes the buildup without grinding the surface. Costs vary by pool size, but planning for periodic blasting is a realistic long-term maintenance line item in hard-water regions. Expect small pools to run in the low thousands, and schedule interim tile blasting to keep the waterline sharp between full interior cycles. Clear expectations save headaches and maintain the dark, even look people pay for.

Cold snaps add a new layer of risk. Freeze protect modes usually trigger around 37 to 38 degrees, circulating water so it does not freeze solid at 32 degrees. Most pumps are designed to run continuously for days if needed. The real threat is a power outage during deep freeze. A standby generator can keep circulation and automation online; without power, remove drain plugs on pumps and filters, open lines where possible, and pull salt cells to prevent ice expansion from cracking housings. In regions that freeze often, proper winterization—blowing out lines and protecting equipment—beats relying on luck.

Tools and workflow matter too. Battery-powered vacuums like the Bottom Feeder and the new Shrimp unit now support a patent-pending cartridge assembly that captures finer debris down to roughly 20 microns. That closes the gap between leaf vacuuming and true fine-dirt removal, especially useful after storms or algae treatments where dust and DE escape bags. Being able to switch from a bag to a cartridge in seconds can turn a murky pool into a paying success story without hauling extra pumps or running the system filter to the brink.

Finally, suction-side cleaners shine when left in the water and paired with smart pump schedules. There’s little reason to pull them daily; they are built to live submerged and can run during your normal filtration windows. Let them sit while the pump is at low RPM, then move at medium or high RPM blocks to sweep the basin. In summer, plan eight to ten hours per week of active cleaner time; in winter, four to six often suffices. If you do remove the cleaner for a party, store hoses straight to avoid memory that ruins coverage. Think of the unit as your round-the-clock helper, steadily nibbling away at debris so you don’t need marathon vac sessions.