pH and your Pool: Why is your pH High or Low
pH is the most important
test factor for you swimming pool and if it gets out of balance there
are many negative effects that you will encounter. The ideal pH is
7.5 but it can be as low as 7.2 and still be fine. Most experts agree
that 7.4-7.6 is the range the pH should be maintained at in your
swimming pool.
pH (7.2-7.8)
The pH of the water, determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.
An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool. The most expensive metallic component is the copper heat exchanger within the pool heater. The ideal range for the pH again is 7.4 - 7.6 (though 7.2 - 7.8 is acceptable).
The pH of the water, determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.
An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool. The most expensive metallic component is the copper heat exchanger within the pool heater. The ideal range for the pH again is 7.4 - 7.6 (though 7.2 - 7.8 is acceptable).
Low pH will cause:
Corrosive
Water
Stains
Etched
plaster
Eye &
Skin Irritation
Cloudy
Water
Increased
Chlorine Activity
Destruction
of Total alkalinity
Stretching
of Vinyl Liners
Blistering
of Fiberglass Pools
High pH will cause:
Scale Formation
Stains
Cloudy Water
Short Filter Cleaning
Cycles
Eye & skin Irritation
Poor Effective Chlorine
So you can see that
keeping your pH in balance is very critical. If the pH gets too high
or too low it can have damaging effects on your pool.
Testing for pH:
Testing once a week is
ideal. For a new pool start up testing daily for the first two weeks
is recommended. But once a week will give you a good indication of
how stable the pH is in the pool water. There are various ways of
testing the pH; test Strips, basic test kits and Taylor Kits that use
reagents. Alternate testing can be done with the ColorQ Pro7
Photometer testing and Digital pH testers.
The most common way to
test is with Phenol Red. It is a reagent drop test that is very
accurate. The color of the reagent in water will indicate if the pH
is high or low. Digital Testers and testers that use a photometer
will give you an exact digital readout of the pool pH. These are good
for those who have trouble with the color scale of the reagent
testers.
Lowering high pH:
If
the pH starts to get high in your pool the only way to lower is by
adding acid. Either a dry acid or liquid acid. Muriatic Acid of
31.45% is the most common acid used to lower the pools high pH. Dry
acid or Sodium Bisulfate is the dry form of acid that can be added to
lower the pH. Some test kits like the Taylor K-2006 will have an Acid
Demand Test. This is a reagent test that will tell you how much acid
to add to your pool to lower the pH. A chart is included with pool
gallons and how many pint or quarts to add depending on the test
results.
Raising low pH:
If
your pH is low you can raise it up using a base. A base is the
opposite of an acid and it will raise the low pH up in your pool
rapidly. The best base is Borax as it will raise the pH without
raising the Total Alkalinity. Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) works
well also but it is mainly used for raising the Alkalinity and
requires large amounts to raise the pH. Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate)
raises the pH well but it also raises the pools Alkalinity up so use
Soda Ash if Borax is not available in your area.
Pool Surface Types and
pH:
One
thing often overlook when discussing pH is the pool surface type.
Since cement has a high pH of 12-13 – some plasterers even say
closer to 14, the Acid Demand will be high since the plaster is very
base. That is why when a newly plaster pool is curing in the first 6
months it seems like you are adding tons of acid every week to keep
it low.
A
Pebble Tec pool will be less base and more acidic as the surface is
basically made up of river rocks. You will notice that in a Pebble
Tec pool the Acid Demand is lower than a plaster pool. Vinyl and
Fiberglass pools are basically a piece of plastic and plastic has a
low pH around 6. That is why you rarely need to add acid and in fact
find yourself adding Base to raise up the pH when it drops low. Tile
pools also have a lower Acid Demand but slightly higher than Vinyl
and Fiberglass.
Types of Sanitizers
that affect pH:
The
three main chlorine sanitizers that affect pH are 3” Trichlor
Tablets, Salt Water Generators and Cal-Hypo (Calcium Hypochlorite).
Trichlor Tablets have a very low pH around 2 so using these
frequently will lower the pools pH. That is why they are not
recommended for Vinyl and Fiberglass pools. Salt Water Generators
increase the pools pH as they convert the salt into chlorine.
Sometimes to astronomical levels. And Cal-Hypo has a high pH and if
you use this as your primary sanitizer the pH and Calcium Hardness
will rise.
So be
aware that these three sanitizers affect the pH in your pool. Liquid
chlorine or bleach has the least affect on pH and Trichlor shock with
a pH around 4 also has a minimal affect since it is quick
dissolving. Dichlor is pH neutral so it doesn't really move the pH
one direction or another.
Alkalinity:
Regardless
of your water source all water will contain some alkaline materials.
The amount will vary depending on your water source. Alkalinity is
the water's ability to neutralize acid. Total Alkalinity is the
measurement of the water's resistance to a change in the pH.
Alkalinity and pH are closely tied together and are interconnected.
I
will touch on this more in a separate article but the Alkalinity is
important to prevent pH bounce. This is where the pH rises or falls
rapidly. Know that the pools Alkalinity level is important and to
prevent pH bounce the ideal range is 80-120 ppm.
pH and Chlorine:
One
final note about pH. If the pH is in the ideal range of 7.4-7.6 the
chlorine kill rate will be most effective. This means the chlorine
will quickly kill bacteria and viruses. If the pH is lower than 7.2
it will be strong but will be used up faster. If the pH is over 8.0
the Chlorine is less effective and has a slower kill rate. You will
also notice more algae with a high pH even if the pool is showing
good chlorine levels.
So
you can see the pH has a wide range of affect in your pool water.
Check it weekly and keep it balanced and you will see many of your
water issues corrected and resolved.
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